2008-2019 Challenger Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs Review & Install

2008-2019 Challenger Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs Review & Install

Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today, we’re taking a quick look at and
installing the Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs available for your 2008 and newer Challenger,
excluding the Hellcat and Demon models. Now if you’re in the market for a set of lowering
springs, you’re looking to drop the height on your ’08 to ’19 Challenger, the Eibach
springs are a fan favorite. The Sportlines lower your Challenger up to
2.1 inches, making it one of the bigger drops in the category for just a set of solid lowering
springs without moving in to a set of coilovers. Now as you can see, this significantly changed
the exterior appearance and ride height look of our 2013 RT right behind me here and it
looks badass, to say the least. But it’s not all appearance changes when it
comes to lowering springs. Lowering your Challenger is gonna help with
cornering abilities, suspension and handling feel, performance on the track. And, of course, the progressive springs are
gonna be a lot more comfortable on the road, while progressively getting sportier and tensing
up under heavy loads, like launching your Challenger on the track and taking those corners
at higher rates of speed. These are a better performing spring than
the factory ones with a nice progressive spring rate as opposed to the linear. Now for the guys out there doing a lot of
drag racing, who want a more consistent and a more predictable spring rate, you might
wanna look into a set of Linears, but this Sportline here is gonna be a perfect progressive
spring for the daily driver or the weekend warrior. This is perfect for both road and track, very
fitting for the RT from the Challenger and I definitely do like the appearance of the
ride height. It has a little bit of rake. It does go a little bit lower in the front,
of course, than the rear as you can see, but that is to be expected, it’s the same thing
from the factory, 2.1 inches in all four corners. There are other staggered lowering springs
on the market that will lower you a little bit more in the front, a little bit less in
the rear, vice versa. So it really all comes down to personal preference
as for ride height. Now, if you’re looking for something affordable,
lowering springs across the category don’t really stray too much from a set price tag
somewhere around 260 bucks, give or take, depending on the brand. The Eibach ones here do have a high tensile
steel, which is just exactly the same as that OEM spring, not much construction difference
when it comes to lowering springs. All that will really change is the spring
rate for the most part. Now this one does have that red powder coated
finish. Of course, doesn’t affect performance at all. That is an Eibach trademark. And we’ll take a closer look at that sitting
next to our factory spring, that black spring, once we’re in the middle of that installation. We’ll take a look at that when I get those
rear springs out. And I’ll show you guys that whole process
in just a little bit. That red powder coating is also gonna help
with corrosion and rust resistance, which, of course, is everything you’d want in a spring. Now as far as the installation, you can expect
this to be bordering on three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. And the reason being is because you do need
to have a spring compressor on deck which requires some mechanical skills and requires
precaution because it can be very dangerous. If you’re not comfortable tackling this yourself,
guys, there’s no shame handing it over to a professional, if you have a local shop that
you trust a lot, to get this done properly. It can be risky and it can be pretty challenging
at times. You wanna have patience and you wanna have
some mechanical skills on deck. At least have a helping hand if you haven’t
tackled this before yourself. With that said, three out of three wrenches,
I am gonna say this one’s gonna be taking at least six hours, especially, if you’re
working on the ground. If you have a lift like we do and some pole
jacks, it can be a little bit easier. Again, I’ll take you through step by step. You wanna have some basic hand tools on deck,
as well as maybe a couple of pry bars, jack stands, floor jacks, hydraulic jack, all of
those things will come in handy. And I’ll show you guys some of those tools
as we go through. So what do you say, we just get to it? The tools used in this install include a 3/8
impact gun, variety of extensions, 13-millimeter deep socket, 15-millimeter deep and short
socket, 18-millimeter deep and short socket for the 3/8 gun, 15, 18, 21, and 22-millimeter
deep sockets for a half inch air gun, 10-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 18-millimeter wrenches,
hammer, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, and a bungee cord. Guys, the whole first step of this process
is just gonna be removing your wheels. Now before you do so, we’re using a lift,
but if you’re working on the ground, make sure you have the hydraulic jack on deck as
well as several jack stands properly supporting the weight of your vehicle. That is absolutely crucially important while
going through this entire process. Make sure your vehicle is supported properly. Once that’s out of the way, you have that
taken care of, I’m gonna use air tools to pop our logs off and get our wheels out of
the way. Of course, if you have a lug wrench, that
works too, break that out, get all five of those lugs out of the way, pop your wheels
off and we’ll move forward. Next step is to remove our factory nut on
our sway bar end link, holding that to the strut itself. Now if this gives you trouble, PB B’laster
is gonna be your friend, have a 21-millimeter socket on deck, and a pry bar could also work
if you need to wedge something in there to get it to stop spinning. Just pull that out of place and droop that
off to the side. Now what I like to do, is while I have that
disconnected, so I don’t lose that factory nut, I’ll just thread that on by hand, just
so we know where that’s at. Now our next couple of steps do require us
to support the weight of this assembly here. So what we’re gonna do is lower our car down
on the lift down to our jack stand. We’ve got it raised up just a decent amount
with this little block of wood here to support this weight. All right, now that we have this whole thing
supported with the weight on the jack stand, it’s just lightly on there so that once we
disconnect everything and it starts to droop down, we’re not letting it hang too far, we
wanna have that weight supported. The next step before we grab any more sockets,
we’re gonna disconnect this wheel speed sensor cable from the clip bracket on our brake cable
from the chassis. We’ve got that disconnected, we don’t wanna
put too much strain on that. So having that loose with a little bit more
flex is what we want. Now we can grab an 18-millimeter socket and
our impact gun, or a ratchet if that’s what you’re working with, and disconnect the bolt
holding our strut to the spindle. All right, next step is our upper control
arm. Now what we’re gonna do is remove this 18-millimeter
nut on the stud, back that out, just so it’s even with the bottom of the stud itself, that
way we can still just knock this loose without it popping off completely. We’re gonna loosen this enough to get the
ball joint inside of our knuckle loosened. Now I’m gonna grab my 18-mill, back that off
nice and lightly, got that, still on but loose enough that this can get dislodged. Now we’re gonna grab a mallet or a hammer,
whatever you have handy and start knocking off against this control arm. There it goes. Once that’s dislodged, we can continue removing
that nut. All right, now as you can see, this is completely
disconnected. But one thing we don’t want is this putting
so much pressure on that brake line, that can be detrimental, we don’t want that to
happen. So grab a bungee cord, a rope, something like
that, that you can use to secure this back so it doesn’t put as much pressure on it. What I like to do is hook that around, wrap
it around a few times and we can go all the way back here, and just find somewhere that
this can hook on to, so that it’s not putting all that pressure on the brake line. Can definitely go straight back to the frame. Next up, you wanna go underneath your hood,
make sure that’s popped open. We’re gonna go to our strut tower. You wanna twist off the strut tower covers
on the top of that strut and set that aside on the cowl or on your reservoir, grab a 13-millimeter
deep socket and you’re gonna remove the three 13-millimeter nuts holding on the top of that
strut. Now when you do remove those, your strut is
gonna be completely free because we disconnected the bottom. So make sure you have a hand on that to grab
it so it doesn’t fall through. All right, I got one off, make sure you don’t
drop that in the engine bay. Number two. That third one is gonna come off and the strut
is gonna be loose. So keep in mind that it’s gonna pop down. Now it should rest on the control arm before
it comes down, and you might need to flex that downward. All right, just get yourself enough room to
pull this out, watch the paint and you’re free. Now we’re over here by our spring compressor
but before we can get to that, we’re gonna have to take off our isolator and spacer at
the top of our strut hat. That comes off just by hand. You can tilt that upside down to get that
washer out of place, that gives you access to the nut. If you remember, this coming through our strut
tower under the hood, had that spacer or that cover over top of it. Once we unscrewed that, this rubber isolator
prevents that metal from contacting this metal and giving you a knocking sound. So that’s why we have this. You wanna retain this. Once we put our new spring on our strut, we’re
gonna wanna put this back so we can prevent any knocking between metal on metal contact
with that cover. So just set this aside for now. All right, guys, at this point here, we’re
working on our spring compressor. We’ve got it set up in place. Now if you don’t have one mounted to the wall
like we do here in our shop and you have one of those manual ones that you’re working on
the ground, just exercise extreme caution. If you don’t have familiarity with your spring
compressor, take it to a shop, get done properly, this can be extremely dangerous. These springs are bolted down on the strut
under heavy load. So if this were to release without proper
security, it can shoot off and be pretty detrimental. So just exercise extreme caution while doing
this. We’ve got it set up here. I’m gonna crank down on this, relieve some
of that pressure. The reason we’re doing this is to condense
that spring, relieve pressure from that top hat. We’ll go in with our 18-millimeter deep socket
and remove that nut and then slowly decompress so we can pull that top hat off safely. So that’s the goal here. That’s what we’re gonna do. I’ve got this setup so I’m gonna slowly work
my way down and just relieve some of that pressure. You wanna compress that spring enough so that
it gets that pressure off of that nut. Now we can decompress that spring, remove
our top hat, swap them out with the Eibach ones and do it all in reverse order. All right, once that’s taken care of, you
push those back, get the spring out of here. We’re going to remove that top hat. The whole bump stop is gonna come with us. Now as you can see, the isolator on the bottom
of our strut is gonna stay in place and it’s gonna be a good seat for the new spring. As you can see, that coil is gonna rest right
up against that edge, top hat is gonna go on next, feed that whole assembly straight
through. And the same thing is gonna happen up here. You can see that this is a stopped end, that’s
gonna go right against the side of our coil. Press that down, get them to seat, that’s
gonna be where that sits. Now that we have our strut head back on, the
spring is short enough that we can get this nut on by threading it down by hand. We’re just gonna push down, get threading
to show through, just tighten this down by hand, that’ll hold this in place while we
get it back on the compressor. All right, now that we have this set back
up, we can compress that spring again. We’re gonna breakout that 18-millimeter socket
on our impact gun, tighten up this nut to spec and then it will be good to get it off
the spring compressor, back in the vehicle and reassemble everything. Now when you’re decompressing that, you wanna
make sure the spring seats in that isolator properly, just like I showed you, have the
end of that coil up against the edge of that isolator and then you can decompress. Perfect. Just like I said, right up against that edge,
same thing on the top. Now we’re good to go right back in the vehicle. And before we do anything, of course, you
have that rubber isolator and that metal washer, you wanna make sure you’re putting those back
into place. The washer is gonna go first and that rubber
one is gonna come second. Give you a little resistance because of the
threading on that stud but just push it all the way down as far as you can and now we’re
good to go back in. Remember, that’s gonna keep that contact free
from metal on metal when we put that cat-back on the top. So, at this point… All right, now, we can thread on those top
13-millimeter nuts by hand, just to hold it in place. Once we have it bolted down the bottom, we’ll
come back up and tighten these down. Perfect. Those are gonna hold that strut in place. You can go down low and get them tightened
up. At this point, we wanna seat that strut on
the lower bolt location, a pry bar is definitely gonna help get that lined up. There it is. Now grab your socket and tighten that down. All right, now we’re gonna get this nice and
tight with our 18-millimeter socket. Next up, we’re gonna get this bungee out of
the way so we can dislodge our entire spindle, get that up out of the way. Next up is that nut at the top with our upper
control arm. Get that nut off. I’m gonna thread this on by hand. All right, once you have that threaded on,
of course, just grab your socket and tighten it down. All right, next up, you just wanna reconnect
that sensor cable on to our brake line bracket that connects there. And the next step here would be our sway bar
end link. Now as I showed you before, I like to throw
that nut back in place. Just remove that, now you can slide that stud
back into the opening on your strut, thread this down by hand, grab your socket and tighten
that down at 21-mil. Now because tightening this up with your air
gun or your impact gun, it will cause this whole bearing to spin. If you need to, the last resort can always
be to grab a ratcheting wrench or a regular wrench, put it down here, hold the end of
this with your regular wrench and just start cranking away. It’s gonna take a lot longer, but it might
be what you need to do if it keeps spinning. All right, guys, now we can go back up under
the hood, grab your 13 deep socket, and tighten up these three nuts, and then we’ll replace
that cover. And this just threads right back on top. Guys, once you have everything tightened down,
you wanna make sure you’re going back with a torque wrench and torquing all of your bolts
down to their proper specifications. Now the top upper control arm bolt we did
with air tools, that got really nice and tight. I know that’s not to spec. But if you’re using hand tools, you wanna
make sure this is down to 50-foot pounds plus a 90-degree turn. The bottom of your shock, going straight to
that control arm is going to go down to 128 foot-pounds. And I have my torque wrench here because we
did not use air tools, I know that’s not tight enough. I got it set to 128 foot-pounds. Typically, you’re not really supposed to use
an extension on a torque wrench, it can start to lose some of that power. But we, otherwise, would not be able to reach
this bolt. So I’m gonna stick that down there and get
this down to 128 foot-pounds. Wanna hear two clicks, ensure that that’s
at proper spec and you’re good to go. Now the top bolts underneath of that hood
are 30-foot pounds. All right, now with that entire process taken
care of, for what you saw to be our driver side front, what we’re gonna do, repeat the
exact same process on the other side of the front. Then we can get started on the rear. The other side of that front, of course, is
gonna be the exact same. So if you guys followed step by step on this
side, you’ll definitely knock out the other side in no time. All right, kicking off the rear, we’re gonna
start it off the exact same way we started off the front, grab your 22 socket, pop off
those lugs, get the wheels out of the way. You saw me pop off the rear wheels, so it’s
time to get started on the rear springs. So you wanna grab a 13-millimeter socket and
an extension. What we’re actually gonna do is lower down
our one exhaust pipe. Now the reason being is to lower down this
rear cradle, what we’re gonna do is remove this bolt holding it to the back end. But we can’t back that bolt out because the
tailpipe is in the way. So what we’re gonna do to make our lives just
a little bit easier here is grab this 13, we’re gonna go up, remove the brackets on
our hangers that hold the isolators together to the frame. We’re gonna remove that bolt, it’s a 13-millimeter
bolt, holding it to the frame, lower down that hanger, then there’s another one right
on top of the exhaust tip. With those two out of the way, we’ll be able
to lower down our exhaust tailpipe just enough to clear that bolt, get that backed all the
way out. With that in mind, we’re also gonna remove
the bottom shock bolt, that’s holding that to the cradle itself, as well. Since we’re only doing lowering springs, there’s
not a whole lot of taking apart that we need to do in order to lower this down enough to
get that factory spring out. Keep in mind, our new springs are shorter,
so we’re not going to need as much room when it comes to put those in. We just need a little bit of clearance to
get the factory one out. If you are doing a little bit more than lowering
springs, if you’re doing shocks or a sway bar, it’s a lot more involved than that. If you’re doing shocks, you’re gonna do two
top bolts as well. To pop that out, you might have to lower this
down a little bit more to get some clearance to get that out. But, of course, we’re only doing springs today
so we’re only going to move forward with this bolt here at the bottom of our shock, as well
as the bolt holding our cradle to the frame. So first step, 13 socket, extension, impact
gun, let’s pop off those hanger brackets, holding it to the frame. Got that one loose, we got one more under
the tailpipe tip. All right, this one’s a little bit trickier
to get to, right above our tip, but we just have enough clearance to get to it without
needing a swivel. Can see that cat-back coming down. Just let it hang off and we’re gonna put our
bolts aside. All right, guys, now you can see we have that
lower down, you can see us getting a lot more clearance and now we have enough room to back
that bolt out. And, of course, if you needed to, you could
pull down just a little bit on that back tailpipe to give yourself more clearance. But I think we’re good right there as it is. All right, the next step here, I actually
want to get our pole jack out. Now, guys, if you remember, we’re using a
lift here at our shop. But if you’re on the ground, hydraulic jack
does the trick just as well. You wanna have a pole jack here, we’re gonna
jack this all the way up, just to put a slight bit of tension, take a little bit of tension
off of that cradle. So we’re just barely holding that up. Just a little bit of tension. Do the same thing with a hydraulic jack if
you’re working on the ground. When we start removing these bolts, we don’t
want that cradle to shoot down with all of that tension from that spring. So you wanna support that weight. If you’re up in the air with a pole jack,
that’s a good way to go. If you’re on the ground, a hydraulic jack
will do the trick, makes it easier to lower it down. All right, guys, with that weight supported,
you wanna grab an 18-millimeter socket and 15-millimeter wrench and pop off the bottom
shock bolt holding it to the cradle. The 18 is gonna go on the nut, 15 is gonna
go on the bolt head side on the opposite end. Now if you need to, grab a ball-peen hammer,
just tap that out to get the bolt to come through the other end. Next up is that bolt on the back end of that
cradle. Grab an 18-millimeter wrench to hold the nut
side and a 15-millimeter socket to get the bolt head. Make sure, at this point, you have that weight
supported. All right, guys, once that bolt’s out of the
way, we can start lowering down our pole jack ever so slowly. Now like I said, this is under a lot of tension,
you don’t wanna get it down too quickly, just to unload all that pressure. Go very slowly with your pole jack. And if you’re using a hydraulic jack, just
slowly rotate that handle to get that to lower down. Once you get that nice and loose, you’ll see
all that pressure comes off. You get a lot of play in that spring. Get your jack out of the way if need be. Make sure you’re pulling that isolator out
with it. All right, now we can grab our Eibach spring. Well, guys, we finally got that factory spring
out. We have them side by side here and I just
wanted to do a quick comparison. As far as what they’re made of, not much,
if anything, changes, Eibach is still made from a high tensile steel coil, still has
the exact same OEM quality as those factories springs. You can expect that to hold up for years to
come. Of course, it has that trademark look, the
powder coated red finish on the Eibach Sportlines. Comparing that to the factory black finish,
this looks a lot better on your suspension but, overall, that color is just giving you
that corrosion and rust resistance. As you can see, this one is tightly wound
at the top, that’s gonna be the way that this is going to sit in on your cradle. Being a progressive spring, you can expect
this to be, like I said earlier, a lot more comfortable during daily driving. You can sit in traffic no problem without
it being uncomfortable. But the second it gets under heavy load, taking
tight corners or under hard launches, that is going to tense up, feel a lot sportier,
compress a lot nicer. It’s gonna give you a nice tight suspension
feel, giving you a high-quality ride, while still giving you that sporty track feel. It’s good for road and track, hence a Challenger
RT, right? This is what these Challengers were made for. So if you’re picking up this, this is gonna
be a really good rear end feel. And I’m excited to get this installed. One thing we are gonna have to do is transfer
over our factory isolators. As you can see, these are in pretty nice condition. Granted, this is a 2013. If you’re working with something a little
older or if you’re isolators have seen better days, this is the time to pick up new ones. We’re just gonna transfer over our factory
ones since these are in pretty good condition. But keep that in mind, you wanna make sure
you’re not forgetting this, transfer your isolators over to your new springs before
you pop them in. So let’s do that now. The top hat, it’s gonna seat right on the
top there. And, again, just like our fronts, it has that
edge, wrap that in. The rear, same thing, gonna seat this in,
wrap that around the coils, straight on to the edge there. This is gonna seat into that factory cradle
just like this. Now if that coil starts to come out of that
lower isolator, you can just jack the cradle up to get them to sit with a little bit more
pressure. Now that we’re getting back to bolting up
our lower control arm and our cradle back into our subframe, we’re running into the
problem of it actually pushing the vehicle off the lift a little bit. We hit a point of resistance once we get pretty
close to that bolt hole. So in order to avoid this, what we’re going
to do is lower the car all the way down with all three wheels back on, with the exception
of this one, we’re gonna lower it down onto a jack stand. We’ll use the weight of the vehicle on the
jack stand to push up on this lower control arm. So we’ll put that jack stand right about here
on the cradle and it’ll push all the way up and get that lined up. We can also use, at that point, a hydraulic
jack on the ground, like a lot of you guys will be using from the start if you’re working
in the driveway at home. The combination of that jack stand here and
the hydraulic jack, if we need it, would be to put that here and push upward to get those
bolt holes to line up. Now, before you do start to do this, if you
are on a lift like we are, make sure you bolt at least one bolt back up into the exhaust
so it doesn’t scrape the ground first. Because it’s hanging so low, it will come
in contact with the ground before anything else does, so just keep that in mind moving
forward. Also, if you are gonna take this method or
if you’re working on the ground to start with, make sure your jack stands are up high enough
to get this job done. So, with that said, let’s put a jack stand
here, we’ll lower this down, but first we gotta put all three of our wheels back on,
with the exception of this one. All right, next up is our shock bolt. You can use a flathead screwdriver to get
it to line up on the opposite end, by sticking that through the hole and just prying upward,
to get your bolt hole through this end. Grab the nut, thread it on the other side. And we can get our tools and tighten down
these two bolts. All right, guys, once you have the bolts through,
grab your 15-millimeter deep socket and your 18-millimeter wrench and tighten up the bolt
holding that cradle to the subframe. Perfect. All right, now we can do that shock bolt. Tighten that down with our 13 socket. Just a quick couple of notes before we get
going, after you tackle this installation, whether you’re doing it yourself or you’re
taking it to a shop, make sure you’re getting your alignment checked or redone, simply because
anytime you’re disconnecting your rear cradle at the rear end or taking your struts out,
you are going to mess up that alignment just a hair. Might not be super noticeable at first but
it definitely can take a toll on the suspension, wear out your tires a lot more. So all in all, it’s just safer to get the
alignment done after the installation is complete. Well, guys, that’s gonna wrap up my review
and install of the Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs, available for the 2008 and newer
Challenger, excluding the Hellcat and Demon models. You can pick your set of Sportlines up or
the Pro-Kit from Eibach right here at americanmuscle.com.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. if the Challenger in your video has already been lowered the ass end is still to high with too much of a wheel gap compared to the front….

  2. I had these on my 2010 R/T. Even with new Bilsteins it bounced WAY too much. Eibach support wouldn't do a thing about them. I'll never buy their stuff again.

  3. I know you guys just started offering challenger parts. When is it time for the chargers? I have a 6.4 392 charger and would love to give it some love

  4. Just wondering but the direction of the bolts don't appear to matter on the rear cradle? I noticed the inside one was put on backwards. I know because it was a real B!!ch getting it back in the way it came out.

  5. looked at their website….I have a 2018 Scat Pack Challenger. When I went to buy..put in model and year and said not available for my year…do you have any further info on this?

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