2015-2017 Mustang GT VMP GEN II-R 2.3L TVS 735 HP Stage 2 Supercharger Kit Review & Dyno


The Gen II-R Stage 2 kit from VMP will be
for the 2015 through ’17 GT owners out there who want one of the most potent TVS setups
available in the aftermarket and a kit that will produce a whopping 735 horsepower in
its current form with plenty of room to grow. Now, the kit will include just about everything
you need to get going, including a custom VMP tune, however, it will not include a handheld
device. So, prospective buyers will need to factor
that into the near $7,000 price tag. Install will be for the more advanced wrenchers
out there, so call this one a full three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter
here with a little bit more on that later to come. But before we go any further with the video,
let’s break down some Dyno numbers. Now, baseline run using our manual S550 GT
gave us 387 horsepower and 357 pound-feet of torque to the rear tires. With the VMP Stage 2 Kit installed, the car
is now making 608 horsepower and 516 pound-feet of torque. Now, that’s good for a whopping peak gain
of 221 horsepower over those baseline numbers and gains of as much as 190 horsepower and
170 pound-feet of torque under the curve. So, if you guys have seen some of my VMP TVS
videos before, you probably know how I feel about these things. Personally, I think VMP took the 2.3-liter
TVS supercharger to the next level and beyond thanks to the Gen II first and then later
with their Gen II-R housing, which, by the way, was capable of over 1000 horsepower. So, what’s the big difference between the
two? Well, that Gen II took the original split
two-piece design of the early TVS elbow and made it into one large opening while at the
same time, incorporating that elbow into the housing here, which showed nearly 20% improvement
in airflow. Now, that Gen II-R, on the other hand, took
the Gen II even further, made more improvements to the housing and elbow, enlarging the plenum,
and essentially, delivered a ported blower right out of the box and one that will allow
for larger throttle bodies. But aside from the much better housing and
flow capabilities, the heart of the Gen II-R is no doubt that tried and true TVS 2300 rotor
pack from Eaton. Now, the TVS, or Twin Vortices Series, is
an extremely popular design, has been for the last several years, that utilizes a twin
four-rotor lobe pack that are twisted 160 total degrees, creating a more efficient airflow
over the older style Eaton blower like the M122, but has since been almost replaced as
the big boy here by the Gen III, which features the 2650 rotor back also from Eaton. Now, the Stage 2 Kit will also include the
lower portion of the blower which is actually your air to water intercooler portion of the
TVS system and is designed to work with the included VMP triple pass heat exchanger, which,
in my opinion, is going to be one of the beefier units you will find in the TVS setups. Now, in my opinion, guys, this is a nice upgrade
and it’s certainly worth pointing out as heat can be an issue here, especially with a PD
or positive displacement supercharger setup in the warmer climates and the fact that VMP
tosses that in with their Stage II Kit is really killer and is a very nice addition. Now, on top of the extra capacity and larger
core, VMP also includes their twin fan setup, which altogether will help keep those IAT2
temps down a little bit more. Those are the ones you wanna be concerned
with and ultimately, will be one of the better cooling packages in a TVS setup in the category. Helping to ensure that the Gen II-R is gonna
get plenty of air will be the combination of the twin jet 60-millimeter throttle body
from VMP working with the 110-millimeter intake and air box. Both solid pieces, no doubt, and could be
upgradable down the road if you wanted to step up to a big monoblade or maybe a bigger
cold air system with a bigger mass air flow housing, but altogether, the included components
have no trouble making a bunch of power. Now, as far as fueling is concerned here with
the Gen II-R setup, VMP does include a set of 56 pound injectors, along with some unique
high-flow fuel rails which are given a little extra juice courtesy of the VMP plug and play
fuel pump booster, sometimes called a Boost-a-Pump, but basically, they all perform in the same
fashion. Now, this is responsible for increasing the
voltage to the factory fuel pump in order to keep up with the demands of the now blown
Coyote engine and the much larger injectors. The Stage 2 Kit here will also include the
82-millimeter pulley, which will put you right around 10 pounds of boost or so, depending
on your modifications and is easily upgradable down the road if you ever wanna pulley down,
raise the boost, things like that, or maybe even lower the boost by pulleying up, totally
your call. In addition to that, the kit does include
all of your hardware, the wiring, the shiv belt system, tensioners, everything you need
to make this kit 99% complete. Now again, I say 99% complete because as I
pointed out at the very top of this video, guys, this kit does not include a handheld
device such as an SCT X4 or Rev-X, which will be required to upload your included VMP calibration. Now, VMP’s calibration or tune, in my opinion,
is one of the better TVS options out there and will also include two data log revisions,
if necessary, but, again, as a VMP customer here, I can tell you their tune will be top
notch and the car is going to run completely like stock until you put it to the floor. But what does that all mean when it comes
time to bolt everything up and put it to the rollers? Well, VMP gives you crank horsepower numbers
of 735 here on your S550 GT, which, depending on your transmission, should land you somewhere
in the low 600 horsepower range to the tire, give or take on good 93 octane. Now, pulley down a little bit, make a few
small tweaks and the sky is the limit with this blower. Now, on top of the massive power gains here,
the VMP tune will, again, be very streetable, meaning the car is going to drive like a stock
Mustang until you unleash hell with your right foot. And, again, as a VMP customer, I can tell
you this from experience, the guys down there know their stuff, especially when it comes
to these TVS applications. Now, what about the installation? Well, this one isn’t exactly for those first-time
wrenchers out there as there is a decent amount of work involved, in addition to clearancing
the front timing cover on your 5-liter Coyote engine. So, because of that, I’m gonna go three out
of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, and at least a solid day, more than
likely gonna take you two to get everything knocked out and sorted out. Now, VMP does have a solid write-up of a step-by-step
breakdown of the install. Highly encourage you to check that out before
getting started with the job just to make sure if this one is in your wheelhouse or
not. But to give you a better idea of what this
job will be like, here is a detailed walkthrough of the install. Tools needed for this installation are as
follows: a complete socket set with a few different size ratchets, a couple of different
kinds of pliers and cutters, a pry tool, a few screwdrivers, impact guns or ratchets,
and you’re gonna need a few cutoff wheels and grinding tools. All right, now we’re gonna jump into this
head first with the installation of our VMP Stage 2 supercharger. Now, to begin, we’re gonna have to do a little
bit of stripping down of our motor. We’re gonna go ahead, get our factory intake
and intake manifold out of place. As you can see, our car is not equipped with
the factory strut tower bar, so that saves us a step or two, but if your car is equipped
with it, it’s just four bolts and it pops right out and out of the way and you will
not be able to use that later. Your supercharger will stick up too high and
your strut tower bar will not fit. We’re gonna get our engine cover off and then
go ahead and start removing our factory intake manifold. But before all that, we’re gonna go ahead
and drain our cooling systems, so we’re gonna get the car up in the air and we’re gonna
drain that out. You don’t wanna just drain your coolant out
onto the ground and let it go everywhere. Go ahead, get yourself a good drain pan, drain
it into there, dispose of it properly. If your drain pan is nice and clean, you can
actually reuse your coolant. I personally think now is a good time to flush
your system since you’re gonna drain everything out, fill it up with nice, fresh coolant. Now, let’s go ahead and get started. Now, to drain our coolant, we’re gonna have
to go ahead and get our undertray out of the way. Now, that’s just a few 7-millimeter bolts
scattered along the bottom with a few push clips, so let’s go ahead and get all those
out and just follow along and you’ll see where they’re all at. Now, to drain your coolant, you’re gonna find
your petcock right here on the side of your radiator. Just go ahead and spin that open until it
starts to flow, making sure that your cap is open up above. Now, with our cooling system drained, we’re
gonna go ahead and start tearing apart the top end of our motor. You’re gonna begin by just going ahead and
getting this out of here. After that, we’re gonna come in, we’re gonna
start disconnecting a few lines so we can go ahead and get our air intake outta here
and our intake manifold. We’re gonna go ahead and get our PCV lines
out of the way, disconnect our mass air flow sensor, and we’re gonna go ahead and get a
flathead screwdriver, disconnect our clamp, and with a 10-millimeter socket, take the
bolt out that secures our air box in. We’re gonna lift the whole thing out at once. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and disconnect
our heater lines from the front of our motor. Now, in the instructions, they want you to
completely remove them for now and then go ahead and put them back later. I like to just disconnect them and swing them
up and out of the way. It is a little difficult to get to ’em on
the firewall and that can result in damage to your lines and they’re expensive to replace. Just go ahead. You push down on ’em and you push in the white
tabs. Now, take your time when disconnecting these. There might still be a little bit of coolant
left in the system. I just went ahead and disconnected our brake
booster line because we will be removing this to modify it later, but just to get it out
of the way while we swing our heater line up and over here. All right, next, we’re gonna go ahead and
get our factory degas bottle out of the way. Now, it’s as simple as one clamp back here. This one right here on the top of the radiator
and this one right here under our old heater hose. Now, with our three hoses disconnected, we’re
gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and remove the degas bottle from our fan shroud. All right, next, we’re gonna go ahead and
disconnect our electrical connections on our intake and that goes with our throttle body
and our evap solenoid here on the top of it. And now, with a 10-millimeter socket, we can
go ahead and start disconnecting our intake manifold beginning with these two covers that
were on here to protect our fuel rails from our heater lines. Go ahead and pull the cover up and the insulation
and get those out of the way. We’ll just go ahead and put our hardware back
on here so it doesn’t get lost. Then we just gotta go ahead and get this line
off of our throttle body. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and get our fuel
injectors disconnected. Now, it’s just eight plugs. There’s four on each side. They all come off the same direction. Just press in the little clip and gently pull
up on them and they should unplug. Just tuck those out of the way. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and get our fuel
line disconnected. Now, if you just squeeze the bottom of the
clip, you’ll see the blue part here just pop up and go ahead and carefully slide your line
off. There’s gonna be a little fuel pressure in
there. It’s okay and spin that out of the way until
later. Now, we can go ahead and unbolt our fuel rails
and intake manifold and lift them out. Now, with our 10-millimeter, go ahead and
take out the four bolts that lock our fuel rails down. Then carefully, just pull up on your fuel
rails, disconnect them, and get them off to the side. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and get this evap
hose right here off the front of our throttle body. I’m just gonna take the green clip out, push
this small button on the one side, and it slides right off. Go ahead and just get that out of the way
for now and just go ahead and insert that back on there. Now, with a 8-millimeter socket, we’re gonna
go ahead and disconnect the bolts that attach our intake manifold down to our heads. Now, looking at this, you did see me only
undo six bolts. That’s three on each side. Now, some of you at home might be thinking,
“Wow, that was weird of Ford to only use six bolts to hold down their intake manifold.” Well, the bolts that secure down your fuel
rails also double as intake manifold bolts, and they go straight down through and secure
it for the other four bolts. Now, let’s go ahead and get our intake manifold
out of the way. You’re gonna see that there’s a few more lines
still on the back of it that have to be disconnected, just a few plugs. To get them out, we do have to take the intake
manifold off and slide it forwards. Now that our intake manifold is off the top
of our motor, we can go ahead and plug up our ports that go down into our heads. Now, you wanna do this so no debris or anything
gets down there and then down into your cylinders and causes more destruction internally into
your motor, which could cost you thousands upon thousands of dollars. So, what I like to do is take some nice good
shop rags and stuff them down inside those ports that way nothing gets down there and
if any liquids gets on it, the rag will actually soak them up. Now, you’re gonna need eight rags to do this. In the instructions, they tell you to use
masking tape. The problem I find with masking tape is if
you get a hot shard of metal when we’re grinding on the front of the block later, it could
actually go through it, melt through the tape and then spill down into your cylinder or
the tape could start to peel up and you still get stuff that enters your motor. Let’s go ahead and get these ports all filled
up then we’ll go ahead and get our upper radiator hose off, our fan shroud, and a few more things
off the front of our motor, like our accessory belt and a few accessory drives. All right, we’re gonna go ahead and disconnect
our upper radiator hose using a pair of pliers. Just squeeze open to clamp until you hear
it click. It’ll stay locked open. Just be careful when moving it now. And to disconnect this side, you’re gonna
come right in here, pull down on this clip. Just go ahead and get that clip out of the
way. And carefully, very carefully, to wiggle this
out, take your hose and drain the rest of the coolant out of it. Now, just go ahead and take this hose and
lay it off to the side somewhere safe and that you don’t lose your clip because you’re
gonna need that later when we put it all back together. Next, we’re gonna come down here, we’re gonna
disconnect this clip. We’re gonna unplug this. That is the plug for your fan shroud, and
we’re gonna leave that unplugged. We’re gonna go ahead and get these two 10-millimeter
bolts out and slide our whole fan shroud out of our vehicle. Now that our fan shroud and our upper radiator
hose is out of the way, we’re gonna go ahead and get our belt off the front of our motor. Now, with a 15-millimeter socket on your ratchet,
gonna go ahead and put it over our tensioner pulley, twist it down, and disconnect it. Let the tension back off and let’s go ahead
and get our belt out of the way. Now, you can go ahead and just put your belt
off to the side. We’re gonna reuse that belt later. Now, as you can see here, our air conditioner
belt is already missing. That got disconnected earlier for a previous
install on this vehicle. But to remove your AC belt, you’re gonna go
ahead and just take a nice sharp knife or razor and cut the belt off because it is a
stretch to fit belt, but we are gonna be replacing that because that is what the supercharger
will run off of. All right, next, we’re gonna go ahead and
disconnect our hoses that connect to our water pump so we can get our water pump out of the
way. You’re gonna use a pair of pliers and just
open up this clamp right here on the top. Once again, it’s like our upper radiator hose,
it should just click open and stay unlocked. And they don’t always cooperate. There we go. And then with a 8-millimeter socket, we’re
gonna disconnect our housing that contains our thermostat. Using a 10-millimeter socket, go ahead and
get your pulley off the front. All right, now with a 10-millimeter socket,
go ahead and pop your water pump off. Now, with any large build, I like to go over
the parts that I’m removing from my vehicle and as you can see here on our water pump,
this little bit of crystallization of our coolant shown on the blowout cap on the front
of our water pump means that our water pump is now leaking. This is a sign that our water pump is on its
way out and should be replaced. Now, this is as good a time as any to make
sure you go ahead and get that done. The engine’s already apart. Just go ahead, replace it now for a few extra
dollars and you don’t have to worry about failure later down the line. With the newer type of coolants that are out
on the market, the coolant is made to crystallize as it leaks out, this way it doesn’t drip
down to the ground and put pollutants out and it also shows you exactly where the leak
is coming from, so it’s easier to trace. All right, now that we have all of our stock
parts removed from our motor that need to come off, we’re gonna go ahead and do the
small modifications to our block and timing cover that need to be done so our supercharger
fits. Now, we’re gonna have to make cuts right along
here and knock this tab off and knock it down smooth so it makes room for the belt that’s
gonna be running in there. We’re gonna have to take this off right along
here just so there’s plenty of clearance for the belt and it doesn’t eat that up. Then we have to come down in our valley and
we’re gonna have to knock this tab right here way down. So, we’re gonna almost end up cutting this
in half, if not all the way off. I’m just gonna make a small mark on the side
here of where I should cut. After I make the mark, we’ll show you where
it’s at. I’m just gonna cut it right along here. Get rid of all this to clearance out for our
new lower manifold. Now, to cut this, we’re gonna be using a cutoff
wheel. Make sure you’re wearing eye protection and
hearing protection. Safety definitely comes first in the shop. All right, now to make our final cut here
in the valley. Just take your time and be careful. Don’t go too deep. Last but not least, we’re gonna go ahead and
cut this off right along this yellow line that I made and that’ll finish up our modifications
to our motor. Now that the modifications are done to our
block, we’re gonna go ahead and move on to a little bit of electrical work that has to
get done. Now, we’re gonna begin that electrical work
with actually just the spark plugs. Now, to begin with the spark plugs, we’re
gonna have to gap them. We gap them down to 30/1000ths. The factory ones are opened up a lot more,
but we’re gonna replace them with new plugs just because, well, we’re in here. Putting on a supercharger is gonna add a lot
more air and fuel to your cylinder. A brand new spark plug is the way to go, and
with that, you wanna close up the gap a little bit also because you don’t want the flame
to blow out with all the added pressure in your cylinder. So, with your spark plugs gapped to 30/1000ths,
we’re gonna go ahead and start swapping them out. Now, to do that, we’re gonna go ahead pull
our spark plug cover off. That just pops right up and out of the way. Then with a 8-millimeter socket, we’re gonna
go ahead and remove the four bolts that secure down our coils. We’re gonna unplug our coils. Then using a 5/8 socket, we’re gonna go ahead
and remove our spark plugs. Now, most spark plug sockets have a little
piece of rubber in them to hold onto the spark plug. Mine actually fell out so I’m gonna use a
magnet to reach down in the tube and grab the spark plugs. Now, when installing your new plugs, you’re
gonna start them by hand, this way you don’t run the risk of cross-threading them into
the head and just snug them down. Now you’re just gonna repeat that for all
eight cylinders. All right, next, we’re gonna do a couple extension
harnesses that come with our kit. Now, to begin those, we’re gonna go ahead
and take our evap solenoid harness and you can see it has this 90-degree hard plastic
piece in here. We’re gonna have to go ahead and get that
out so we can straighten this up. What we’re gonna do is carefully cut the black
tape back, making sure that we don’t see ourselves or the wires. And you can see, there’s the exposed black
plastic piece, we’re gonna ahead and pop that out. We’re gonna take our new jumper harness, clip
that in, lay that down along the side of our valve cover. We’re also gonna take our new throttle body
harness, plug that into our throttle body, and lock that in. We’re gonna run them down our harness that
runs along our valve cover, use a few zip ties, and get them in place. Now, I’m not gonna zip tie back here just
yet because we have one more jumper harness that’s gonna fit back here. We’re gonna go ahead and get that in place
and then we’ll go ahead and zip tie all our IMRC connectors down because we will not be
using those anymore. Our next install harness is this one. This one is actually the harness for our intercooler
fans. Now, we’re gonna be using this end with the
two orange wires hanging out and these are our radio interference plugs so you don’t
get that whining noise through your radio when you’re driving down the street and your
fans are running. So, we’re gonna ahead behind our block here,
behind the driver’s side head, there’s a small plug. We have this plug right here. We’re gonna go ahead, unplug it. Plug one end in, plug the other end into the
other side. Now, we’re just gonna go ahead and zip tie
this down along the rest of our harness and then run the rest of the wires up into the
front bumper and we’ll take care of those later. Next, we’re gonna come down here and take
off the small harness that goes to our knock sensors, so we’re gonna have to do a slight
modification to that to get them to move so we get plenty of clearance for our supercharger. We’re gonna begin by unplugging it from there
and off of our knock sensors. Then we’re gonna go ahead and remove the two
plastic 90s that are built into them. It’s right here under the tape. We’re gonna take the tape off. And repeat that on both of them. Lift up the small tab, and slide it out, and
discard. Next, we’re gonna take our blade. Whether using a razor blade or knife, you’re
gonna be very careful doing this. You just wanna cut the tape at the cross section
right here and just the tape, you wanna make sure you do not cut into the wires. We’re gonna go ahead and just pull them apart
very carefully just to get a little bit more movement out of ’em. With a 10-millimeter socket, go ahead and
just loosen your knock sensor slightly, this way you get a little bit of movement in ’em
and we can push them out of the way. But first, what we’ll do is plug our harness
back into ’em because you wanna move ’em as close to the head as possible without them
touching the head because this will throw off your computer signal. So you’ll go all the way over until it touches
then back it up just a few millimeters, snug it down. Remember, making sure it is not touching your
head. You’re gonna do that on both sides. And just go ahead and plug it back into your
main harness and get it all tucked out of the way. Next, we’re gonna have to go ahead and swap
out this sensor that’s in our new intake manifold. We’re gonna swap it out with this new one
that comes in our kit. Now, the one that’s in here currently is all
plastic. This one has the brass fitting on it. This is gonna hold up a lot better to the
boost pressure. So, using a 19-millimeter, just go ahead and
carefully swap this out. Now, once you get the old sensor out, make
sure you clean your threads out and get all that real nice nice. We’re ready to go ahead and install our new
one. Now, we’re gonna put a little bit of Teflon
tape on there to make sure that there are no leaks. The enemy of boost is a boost leak. Now, all you need is a little bit because
a little goes a long way. Carefully go ahead get that threaded in. And with our 19-mil, we’re gonna go ahead
and snug it down. Now, you don’t need to go cranking on this. You don’t wanna snap it off inside your manifold. You just want it good and snug. Next up, we’re gonna get our dirty air hose
onto the bottom of the back of our intake manifold because we’re not gonna be able to
access this once it’s on the vehicle. Now, to install this, go ahead and take your
dirty air hose that comes in your kit and just slide it down and use your pliers and
slide the clamp down. Now we’re ready to go ahead and get our lower
manifold on our car. First, we’re gonna have to go ahead and pull
all those rags or the tape off your cylinder heads because that’s gonna be in the way to
get this secured down. Next, we’re gonna take these six bolts that
come in our kit and secure down our intake manifold. Now, remember to always start your hardware
by hand. The last thing you wanna do is cross-thread
one of the holes in the head of your vehicle because then we’ll have to pull this all back
apart and repair that first. Now, with a 10-millimeter socket, we’re gonna
go ahead and secure this down. All right, now we’re gonna go ahead and get
our fuel rails put together. Now, these are custom aluminum fuel rails
that come with the kit and they come with all the fittings and even a small wrench to
use on the kit. You’re gonna wanna use this wrench when putting
your aluminum fittings together because it just works a lot better than using a regular
steel wrench. This will not damage the fittings. Now, this here is gonna be your driver’s side
and this is gonna be your passenger side. Make sure our little O-ring is over our fitting. Now, I know this looks like they’re a little
far apart from each other, that’s okay that once we get them in the car, our line is gonna
have a little dip to it and they’re gonna be in the perfect position. Now, with our fuel rails put together, we’re
gonna go ahead and get our fuel injectors installed into them for the time being then
we’re gonna go ahead and get our fuel rails and injectors installed into our car. All right, now with our new fuel injectors,
we’re gonna take the caps off of them. These are the protective caps for shipping,
and we’re gonna use a little bit of penetrating oil to lube up the O-rings and then slide
them into our fuel rails. Now, you’re gonna do this for all eight injectors. Now we can go ahead and slide our new fuel
rails into place, tucking our fuel line behind our manifold. Now, with your four original bolts that came
in your vehicle on your factory fuel rails, we can get these secured down. And with your 10-millimeter socket, go ahead
and snug them down. Now, with your fuel rails in, we can go ahead
and finish tightening up this back fitting and after that, you can go ahead and get all
your injectors plugged in. Now, I have a new water pump to install and
we’re gonna install this bolt, this bolt, and this bolt here. This bolt, we’re not gonna install the factory
bolt back into place. We have a new one supplied with the kit that
holds our bracket in place. Now with our 10-millimeter, we’re gonna go
ahead and remove these two bolts here. And to remove this one is gonna be a 13-millimeter. We’re also gonna need to remove this lower
bolt right here. It’s a 13-millimeter for our spider bracket
that is going to be holding our tensioner for our supercharger belt. Now, we’re ready to go ahead and install our
new bracket by using the two 10-millimeter bolts that come in the kit on the top. The three black bolts go here, here, and down
here at the bottom. And the bolt that we removed out of the bottom
of our timing cover gets reused for our water pump. Now we can take our two idler pulleys that
come in the kit and get those installed with the supplied hardware. And using a 13-millimeter, go ahead and tighten
them down. For our next step with our lower manifold
installed on our car, we’re gonna go ahead and get our blower assembled and ready to
install. Now, to do this, you’re gonna need a few little
parts from the kit. And we’re gonna need our stock intake manifold
because we’re gonna need a part or two off of that. All right, now to begin, we’re gonna go ahead
and search our kit and find this small brass elbow with the barb fitting on the end. We’re gonna go ahead and put a little Teflon
tape on the threads and thread this in right here on the back of our blower. And with a 7/16 wrench, we’re just gonna go
ahead and tighten that down. Now, with that installed, we’re gonna take
the supplied line that comes in our kit. We’re gonna put one end here on that fitting. Measure it out. All right, only needs to be about that long. We’re gonna trim it, put the other end over
our purge solenoid here, and we’re good to go. Now, on our stock manifold. We’re gonna need to remove our evap solenoid
so we can transfer it to our new blower. With a 8-millimeter socket, go ahead and just
pop this off. And that’s all we need and go ahead and get
this out of the way. We’re gonna take the factory screws out because
we won’t be needing those. Instead, we’re gonna use these two socket
head bolts that come in our kit with the spacers. We’re gonna begin by putting the socket head
bolts in our solenoid, slide the spacers over the end of the bolts, and we’re just gonna
install it right here on the back of the blower. And using a 5-millimeter Allen key, we’re
gonna tighten those down. All right, now with that attached, we’re gonna
go ahead and temporarily just slide our blower off to the side for now because we do need
to take our evap line here, deconstruct it a little bit, and put it back together so
it works on our blower. Now, to do that, we’re gonna go ahead and
pull this foam off of the respirator. Now, in the kit, they tell you to save this
foam, but realistically, it’s gonna fall apart on you just by the way it’s designed, so we’re
just gonna throw that off to the side. Now we’re gonna need a pair of pliers so we
can get rid of all these clamps that are holding this together, and we’re gonna use those elsewhere. All right, we’re gonna need this respirator
out of our line so we’re gonna go ahead and get these clamps disconnected. Now, for this hard plastic line here, we’re
actually gonna need to put a small cut in it to get it off. And the last thing we’re also going to need
is this check valve. This goes into your brake booster. This is what helps you build up vacuum pressure
in your power brakes. All right, now to assemble this to work with
our new blower, we’re gonna need a few of the parts out of the kit. There’s gonna be a vacuum cap. Now, when you take your respirator, you’re
gonna see that the one end on the gray side is a lot bigger than all the other ends. You’re gonna go down and over across from
that on the black part and put that vacuum cap. I’m not gonna be using that part anymore. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and take our 90-degree
and that’s gonna go directly across from our vacuum cap. Make sure you put a clamp on it. After that, we’re gonna go ahead and reinstall
our check valve that goes into our brake booster. We’re gonna use this hose with a couple of
the clamps that we took off of our factory respirator line, slide it over here so we
can go ahead and get this installed on our new respirator. We’re gonna put this on the larger port of
our respirator. Go ahead and just slide it over. So we’re gonna go ahead and clamp it down
in place. And when we install that, it’s gonna go right
here on the back of our blower. It’s got the curve in it to go around our
purge valve for our blower. This is gonna connect to our brake booster. Then we have this one last line to install. This is gonna go to our intake tube that goes
into our throttle body, and that is gonna install right here on this end. Then slide our clamp over that. And there we have it. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and just get it
installed on the back of our blower so we can get our blower installed on our engine. Now that our respirator line’s all ready,
we have one last vacuum line that needs to go on. You can see it’s gonna have two 90-degree
elbows on the end of it, and it’s a small, thin, hard line. I’m gonna go ahead and slip that on this side. And once the blower’s installed, that’s gonna
hook into your intake tube. Now with our new gasket from the kit, we’re
gonna go ahead and get our throttle body installed. And using a 8-millimeter socket, go ahead
and tighten them down. All right, now last few things before we throw
our blower on top of our intake manifold, there is one harness that I wanna run beforehand
just to keep the wires out of the way. Now, this harness goes over here to our temp
sensor and to our mass air flow sensor plug. What we’re gonna do is go ahead and just plug
this into our sensor. I’m gonna run that behind our blower, bring
it over here, and then just plug it into our mass air flow sensor. And this is where our mass air flow sensor
will plug into later. Next, I’m gonna come down here and put this
coolant line back on because it’ll be a lot easier before the blower gets on. Also, we’re gonna go ahead and hook our heater
hose back up. Now, we’re all ready to go ahead and get our
blower into place. Carefully lower your blower onto your intake
manifold. It’s gonna be heavy. Now with our blower down and seated into place,
we can go ahead plug in our throttle body motor and our throttle positioning sensor. Now, the 10 bolts that come in our kit, we’re
gonna go ahead and get them installed, except we’re only gonna use 9 because 1, we cannot
access underneath our throttle body, so they say to leave that one out. All right, next, we’re gonna go ahead and
get our pulley on the snout of our blower. Go ahead and line the holes up and install
the six bolts that come in your kit. And with the 8-millimeter, go ahead and snug
’em down. We will finish tightening these once we get
the belt on. All right, now we’re gonna go ahead and get
our new tensioner assembly in place, but we’re not gonna tighten it down just yet because
we gotta get our belt in first. We’re gonna begin by installing the two long
bolts that come in our kit. They’re gonna go down here. Well, we’re gonna leave it slightly loose
so we can get our belt into place. The other one goes in this top corner here. Now, before we put the third one in, we’re
gonna go ahead and get our belt in. We’re gonna get our belt around the bottom
of our AC compressor, over the top of our tensioner, underneath of our crank. We’re gonna go underneath our idler as such. We’re gonna go ahead and get our last bolt
in. Now, the other side that goes around your
AC compressor is gonna go up and onto our idler that is built into this bracket. We’re just gonna leave our belt poking out
like this for now, making sure that it is on all of our pulleys. We’re gonna tighten these up using a 13-millimeter. And with a 17-millimeter on the end of this
bolt on the back of our tensioner, we’re gonna push down on our tensioner to release the
tension and put our belt up and over our supercharger, making sure that everything lines up perfectly. After that, we can go ahead and get our stock
belt in place, but first, we have to put our water pump pulley back on. Using your stock water pump pulley and your
stock hardware, line the holes up. And before we tighten those down, we’re gonna
go ahead and get our belt on. This is our factory belt that we took off
earlier. We’re gonna get our belt on to hold that pulley
in place, so we can go ahead and get our bolts nice and tight. And using your factory routing, just go ahead
and reinstall your water pump belt. All right, now let’s go ahead and get our
fans bolted back into place and secure it with our factory hardware. And just snug it down with your 10-millimeter. Don’t forget to plug in your connections. Next, we’re gonna take our new degas bottle
for our supercharger intercooler and line it up where it fits. Mark two holes to be drilled. All right, now we’re gonna go ahead and get
our two holes drilled. Now, I like using a step bit. I just think they work better. Just take your time. Now, just in front of those holes, we have
to make two more larger holes so we can slide our J-clips in. All right, now let’s go ahead, line that up,
get our hardware in place. All right, now we’re gonna go ahead and get
our upper radiator hose back on. This is our stock one that we took off earlier. Get our factory degas bottle right back in
its factory position. Secure it down with our factory hardware and
just reattach our lines. All right, we’re gonna go ahead and take our
front bumper off now so we can start running our lines and mount our heat exchanger in
the front of our Mustang. To do that, we gotta remove this panel from
the top and some hardware that’s on top of our bumper. I’m just gonna remove the clips that hold
this down. Now, with a 8-millimeter socket, we’re gonna
go ahead and remove the hardware that holds our bumper to the front end. And on the ends, there are two 5.5-millimeter
screws that hold our bumper down. Now, just go ahead and repeat that for the
other side. With that all disconnected, we’re gonna go
ahead and get our car up in the air and get inside of our wheel wells to remove the remaining
two screws. Now, to remove these clips from your inner
wheel well, you just press the center in, it releases a clip, and you can pull the whole
clip out. To reinstall them from the back, you’re gonna
push it all the way through until the center is higher than the outside. You put your clip in, press the center till
it’s level and that locks them in. Now, with our inner fender liner peeled back,
there is a small 7-millimeter right up inside of here on the inside of our wheel well. We’re just gonna go ahead and get that out. Now just go ahead and repeat that for the
other side. Now, just make sure if your car has fog lights
and your turn signal’s built into your bumper, that you disconnect goes before you lift your
bumper off. Now, with our front bumper out of the way,
we can go ahead and get our new heat exchanger ready. Now, this is a beautiful unit by VMP and I
really want one of these from my own personal vehicle. Now, to get it ready, we’re gonna go ahead
and take these rubber grommets and just slide them in the holes as so. We’re gonna do that for all four mounting
holes on both sides. Now, once we have those in, we’re gonna go
ahead and get these little metal sleeves into the middle of them. Now, I am sliding them in from the back. It’s a little bit easier that way. These metal sleeves, what they’re gonna prevent
is the bushing crushing down too far once you start tightening it down with the hardware. All right, now our heat exchanger’s ready
to go into place, but first, we gotta take out a few pieces of hardware on our factory
bumper support so we can mount this in its place. Now, the first bit of hardware we need to
move is actually our harness that runs along the back side of this bumper support. You gotta unclip it and then just flip it
up on top and get it out of the way so our intercooler can slide behind. After that, we’re gonna remove the four bolts
that are in the middle section of our bumper support. Now, these are gonna be taken out with a 13-millimeter
socket on a ratchet or an impact gun. You’re just gonna buzz them out. We’re gonna replace them with new hardware
that comes in our kit. All right, now our new hardware with the kit,
just go ahead and put those in place. Start threading them in. But you don’t wanna thread them in all the
way then we won’t be able to get our intercooler in. Just thread them in just enough that they’re
started, but don’t forget to use your washers. Now, if on your car, just like ours, you have
this little air duct right here. We’re gonna have to go ahead and trim this
flap off because it is gonna be in our way. Now we can go ahead and slide our heat exchanger
in place. You can go ahead and run your bolts in just
enough to hold our heat exchanger into place. Now with your intercooler in place and your
bolts started through, before you crank them all the way down, you’re gonna wanna take
your big washer and your lock nut and put ’em on the other side to secure your intercooler
down to those bolts. And with a 13-millimeter wrench and your socket,
go ahead and tighten them down. Now with our heat exchanger bolted into place
and secured tightly, we’re gonna go ahead and move over to this side where we’re gonna
bolt up our new water pump for our heat exchanger. Run a few lines, we’re gonna relocate our
horns to get them out of the way for our pump to sit. Then we’re gonna show you how to wire this
all up. With our 8-millimeter socket, we’re gonna
go ahead and remove the bolt that secures our set of horns down, swing them out of the
way. Then we’re gonna go ahead and get this J-clip
out and just move that right down here and reinstall our horns. Next, we’re gonna take our mounting bracket
for our water pump and just slide it over the back of the studs from our bumper support
and just secure it down with the hardware supplied in the kit. With a 13-millimeter ratchet, go ahead and
tighten it up. Now, just go ahead, bend your bracket out
a little bit just so when the pump is running, it doesn’t rattle the bracket and it vibrates
up against the body. It just gives you a little bit more clearance,
something I highly recommend. With our bolts through the hole, we can go
ahead get our pump mounted up. Get our washer and our nut on the back of
the bolt. And with our 13, go ahead and tighten them
up. Now we’re ready to start plumbing some of
our water line and we’re gonna you use this long piece of hose that comes in our kit. One end is gonna go over your intercooler,
but first, we’re gonna measure it. The other end is gonna go to the outlet of
your pump, say right about there is good. Next, we’re gonna go ahead and take the rest
of our length of hose, slide it up next to our lower radiator hose into our engine compartment. And I’ll show you the where to connect that
later once we get back up top. Right now, this end goes on the bottom of
our pump and secure it with a clamp. Now to secure our harness for our heat exchanger
and heat exchanger pump, we’re gonna remove these two 8-millimeter bolts right here, the
top one and the bottom one. We’re gonna secure our relays down using those
bolts. But for the bottom one, we’re also gonna attach
our ground strap. And later, we’ll just go ahead and zip tie
this all nice and neat. Now we’re gonna go ahead and plug our fans
in and our pump. Now just go back and make sure this is all
zip tied up nice and neat and out of the way from any damage. Now using a large enough bit, we’re gonna
go ahead and put a hole right here in this shroud so we can pass our next intercooler
tube up and through it. All right, now with all our lines hooked up,
our charge air cooler mounted, we can go ahead and lower our car back down and finished hooking
up our pipes up above. Okay, now the other end of our tube that comes
out of the bottom of our pump, we’re gonna go ahead and just connect that to the bottom
of our reservoir and secure it with the clamp. And with the last piece of hose, go ahead
and install it on the top fitting of our intercooler. Now we’re gonna go ahead and hook up our power
wire for our intercooler pump and fans. I’m just gonna go ahead and zip tie the fuses
right here on this tab. Don’t forget to trim off the excess. Then we’re gonna come over here to our fuse
box, pop that open, and where you see the three power wires coming into our fuse box,
we’re gonna go with the center one and remove the 10-millimeter bolt. We’re gonna take our power wires for our intercooler
and fans, place them there and replace the nut. And go ahead and close our fuse box back up. That’s all it takes to run the power to our
relays to control our fans and our water pump. Now, you can go ahead and get your front bumper
reinstalled the exact same way it came off. We’re gonna top it off with fluids. We also have to go do our new fuel pump controller
under our backseat. All right, next, we’re gonna go ahead and
start getting our air box components in place. We’re gonna first slide in our snorkel. Then our air box with our clean air tube and
filter. And just go ahead and make sure that you clip
your snorkel into it. Secure it down with the factory bolt. We’re gonna go ahead and get our tube from
our filter up to our throttle body in. All right, and the last part of our air intake
is the lid. This keeps out the rest of the ambient heat
that’s under our hood. And just secure it down. There’s six bolts that come in the kit and
these are gonna use a T30 Torx bit to tighten them down. All right, now our last step for this install
is to go ahead and get our backseat out so we can put our Boost-a-Pump in. Now, it’s just two little latches under the
back seat. We’re gonna go ahead and flip it up. And we’re gonna go ahead and just unplug this
and move this plug off to the side. Now, what we’re gonna have to do is trim this
top little nub right here off the side so our new plug will fit. All right. So, carefully with our knife, we’re gonna
go ahead and start trimming it back. Fits perfectly. And just plug the other end into the factory
harness. Now we can go ahead and get our Boost-a-Pump
installed. Now, this thing is rather large. Actually, you’re gonna have to go ahead and
tuck that up inside this panel. And lastly, we’re gonna ground it out using
the one bolt on our factory kit. Now just go ahead and get your rear seat reinstalled
and we can load our tune and we’re good to go ahead and fire it up. All right, now our absolute final step in
the installation of our supercharger is loading up our tune. Now, we got here our SCT tuner. We’re gonna go ahead and just work our way
through the programs. All right, we’re gonna go down here to our
tune loaded up for our supercharger. All right, now it’s loading our tune onto
it. This could take a few minutes. All right, now it is done downloading our
tune onto the computer and we’re done. We’re ready to go ahead and start up our vehicle. Now, I hope you enjoyed this video and it
showed you just what it takes to install a VMP supercharger on your ’15 to ’17 Mustang
GT. Now, this is a bit of an extensive install,
but with a little bit of time and know-how, you can do it at home. Now, I hope you enjoyed this and for more
parts and videos like these, make sure you visit us at americanmuscle.com.

About the Author: Michael Flood

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *