4-Stroke 38cc Friction Drive Motor Bicycle Engine Kit Installation | The Flying Horse Lock-n-Load

4-Stroke 38cc Friction Drive Motor Bicycle Engine Kit Installation | The Flying Horse Lock-n-Load

In this video, we’re gonna show you how
to install our Lock-n-Load Engine Kit. This kit is the easiest to
install out of all of our kits. This is the world’s easiest engine kit available. Lock and load and
you’re ready to roll. Here’s what you need for the simple installation:
Two small adjustable wrenches, zip ties, a box cutter or sharp knife, a wire stripper, electrical tape and a
compact drill with a 5mm and 1mm drill bit. The kit you receive should come with
everything you see here. This bike can ultimately go on any 26 inch, and
sometimes 24 inch tire bike. The first thing you
need to install is a square-shaped mount that will go on the seatstay. Place the mount in place, then take the 3 designated bolts and
nuts and hands screw them in place. Be sure the mount is centered. you can
use a 14mm socket wrench if you have one… but otherwise, two small adjustable
wrenches would do the trick as well. Next, we’ll attach the main mount to the
engine. Put the beveled side of the cylinder
connector on the engine and place the mount on top. hand tighten the 4 black bolts with washers Then tighten them using a wrench in an
X pattern. Next we’ll put on the 2 side-mounting bars.
On this bike, we’ll put on the lowest setting. But it may differ for you depending on
the dimensions of your bike. Be sure the top slit of the bar goes
in an upward diagonal angle that goes from bottom
left to top right. putting this the wrong way will prevent
you from lifting your engine up. Next, we’ll mount the engine onto the
mounting plates. This part is much easier with two people
but… It’s possible with one person. Put the
engine in place like so. Then drive the bolt through. Be sure to put
a spacer between the mounting plates and the main mount for the engine. Then use two wrenches to tighten the end-nut. Let’s put the quick release lock on the back, similar as the front main
bolt. slide the bolt through– be sure to put a
spacer between the side mounting plates and the main mount. In some cases, the spacer on the engine
side may be too large… if this is the case, all you have to do is take a file, and file it down slightly. After that, it
should fit perfectly. Be sure that the release handle is on the
opposite side of the engine. Also, be sure that there is a nut on
both sides of the middle bar. Time to install the throttle cable. Take the metal side of the throttle cable and hook it onto the engine like we do here. Installed the throttle cable by zip-tying
it to the bike like so. Don’t tighten them all the way until you set everything in place. Next we’ll install the killswitch along
the same path. To hook the kill switch wires to the
engine, it’s simple. Just black to black… and red to red. If your engine doesn’t come with a plastic cover to connect male to female, you may need
to splice the wires. It’s simple: Just strip one of the wires… twist the two wires together, then
wrap it with electrical tape. Once the throttle and kill switch wires are in place, you can tighten the zip-ties. NOTE: clip off the excess. Next we’ll install throttle handle
and kill switch. First remove the existing handlebar
grips off or… use a box cutter to cut off your current
handlebars. Then you want to drill a small
5mm hole on the handlebar– about 4.25 inches from and end of the handlebar. First, drill a pilot hole with the 1mm drill bit, then
follow up with the 5mm drill bit so that we have the actual size hole that we want.
Then install the kill switch by simply placing around the handlebar. Inserting the kill switch notch into the
drill hole and tightening the screws. And that’s it for installation! Make the final adjustments to the throttle
cable. First remove all the slack from the throttle cable by adjusting the tension on both the throttle handle side and the
engine side where the throttle connects. Once that’s done, you can fine-tune the idle
speed with this screw here. First you will want to add oil
into the engine. For new engines, we recommend Maxima
Scooter Premium 4-Stroke Break-in Oil. You will want to use this
oil during the first 2 full tanks of operation or about 100 miles of use. During the
break-in period, take it easy on the engine and vary the RPM’s.
This will ensure a long-lasting engine for many years of fun and enjoyment. Once you’re done with the
break-in, we recommend Maxima Scooter ProPlus+ 4-Stroke Synthetic 10w30. We offer a self-priming siphon hose for
easy changing of the oil. Now let’s get the engine started! Press the primer button 2 to 5 times
then pull the pullstart a few tugs and it should start. The first time may take multiple attempts but
after that it’ll be easy. Now engage the engine on the rear wheel. It’s important, when you lock the friction motor, to not press it down too hard or too soft on the tire. It’ll take a few tries to find the sweet
spot but after you get it, it’ll become second nature. Now have fun! If you guys have any questions you
can email us at… [email protected] or visit our website at www.BikeBerry.com.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Switzerland also sucks a lot. Everything is forbidden or must be approved to make money out of nothing. Idiot shit country!

  2. Thats a good little kit. I put one of those kit on a 12 inch kids bike and it topped out at 36 mph. it took some welding to do but that things was a blast.

  3. #BikeBerrycom could you please make a vid like this for a 26 x 4.0 fat tire bike? Id like to use the Flying horse on it too

  4. This is litteraly the most complicated and incontinent bike motor out there i could LS a bike and it would be more convenient XD

  5. I'm a 65 year old. I started with a Mach 10 chainsaw motor. It was direct drive chain, left index finger control throttle, drag foot brakes. To start it, picked up the back wheel, run and jump on. (45-50 mph)

  6. It's cool guys for the price. And it's easy to put together. Some of these comments are ridiculous. Want a Harley buy one this is just one type of motorized bike of several.

  7. The only trouble is the friction drive, it eats up the tires really fast. I mean they only last a couple of hundred miles and that's it.

  8. Make sadle bags, with tight black metal mesh, to allow air flow, but hides the motor, looks like storage bags, see a cop hit kill switch, peddle smile n wave lol

  9. You should really solder the wires on the kill switch and use shrink wrap… that will

    the dude didn’t even use strippers to strip the wire…….

  10. Man you're up socks you can't have a friction bike and your government ships in millions of Muslims to replace you and rape your women. I look forward to seeing the Islamic Republic of England soon, you pussys!

  11. What I meant to say was Europe sucks you can't even have a friction bike and your government brings in millions of third worlders to replace you. Crazy shit
    Kalergi plan???

  12. Neat project but I think it’s inefficient compared to a chain drive, this is how tires wear out faster and in a sense your squeezing the tires, plus chain drive is more on demand

  13. Hydrogen is the go it should be perfected even as a mini generator for charging batteries along with a foldout large area solar mat for out of city travel if sunny enough. Anything is possible

  14. Forty years ago, in college, I owned a Solex and loved it. Too old and crippled up now to ride, but Lord, how I miss it! Used to belong to a century club in Houston, used to commute 30mi round trip in good weather, once rode coast in my twenties on a 5-speed. Always more into distance than speed. Bicycles remain the most perfect transport for the planet, for health and for safety–when idiot drivers aren't around. Enjoy your bicycles and this is a cool conversion.

  15. https://youtu.be/h5-Ew9LJXV4
    .Compare to any oscillating pedals in the world, this invention is the best because…

    – Installation is in bottom bracket of conventional bike frame.

    – Very easy to assemble (only 40 minutes…)

    – World's simplest oscillating pedal (fewer parts compare to any oscillating pedals)

    – 30 % more efficient than conventional bicycle crank ..

    – it is the most affordable.
    – Most lightweight and compact.
    – Can be incorporated with derraileur gearing system.

    Inventor: Genaro Francis Tabag
    Email: [email protected]

  16. Except when you go on their website and the 38cc friction drive kit is always outta stock. I've been checking every other day for 2 months now. There is no reason that every time I go on to their website, the item I want is out of stock.

  17. I should have saved up my money and got this instead. I could make this in a day, while it took two weeks to gat my 2 stroke running smooth

  18. A nice little manufacturing job for these kids and a great thing to do if you want to end up being that incredibly loud and whiny weed whacker on two wheels going slowly down the side of the road while everyone passes by looking at the idiot in the way.

  19. I had what they called the winged wheel here in the UK real name 'Cycle Master' it was a complete rear wheel with a motor in the middle cost £28 you just removed your own rear wheel from your bycycle. It did 280 miles to the gallon and I could get 30 MPH out of it. There were other variations similar to the one in this video but in my opinion the 'Cycle Master' was the best. At the moment we are running and you can buy battery operated bikes, so I don't know where some of the comments made by people on here come from. see this link:

  20. I bought a 4 stroke Honda and it lasted 6 weeks at a cost of about $400 dollars. Got a 2 stroke and it has over 10k miles so far and running…

  21. …Worldwide, alive human beings are under the law of the land…COMMON LAW. We are born free, free form any corporate/commercial laws (Admiralty Law) that only pertain to dead corporations.
    Any transport we personally use can be classed as a personal conveyance – it cannot be controlled by any dead corporation, be used to tax or fine us. Unless doing commercial acts we need no insurance but have to pay compensation if harming another's property; this property comes under common law as we all own ourselves as property.

    …Freemasons in power today, they use deception, create our dead corporation – our birth certificate. It has no legal standing so the masons use legalese to con us into being slaves.
    …All government is/are registered as corporations…anyone employed by one cannot force us into anything against our will, cannot deceive us into anything, our full name is a registered corporation so is dead – we are not. A choice to go into contract with full knowledge never happens, lies of big business and politicians see to that. These traitors confusing the masses in an orchestrated cycle of deceptive mind control starts at school to brainwash into following a corrupt system that is genociding us at an ever earlier age every generation.

  22. I purchased this kit. It was shipped to Me with a broken plastic base plate. The night mare was long and frustrating. It took Me 6 weeks to get them to send Me the replacement piece. It took lots of arguments and excuses by them to get a complete kit. I am surprised that I was treated this way. When I first ordered the kit, I told BikeBerrycom that I was going to build a bike that runs on Wood scraps. I have built several Wood Gasifiers to run Gasoline engines. I told BikeBerry that I would be making a YOUTUBE video on the build. I never asked for any sponsorship on the project. I paid for the Kit and expected to get what I paid for. I finished the build, but will not share the video because of My sad experience with the company. Since then, My time has been devoted to building Gasifiers to run generators. I have more work than I can handle right now. In the Pacific Northwest people are concerned about The Big Earth Quake, and the resulting power outage.

    Once I get a head of the orders, I will do the WOOD POWERED BIKE video again. I am now searching for a good reputable supplier for the engine kit. This could have been a great commercial for Bike Berry, at no cost to them. Very disappointed.

  23. I appreciate your entrepreneurship but this will likely take some additional fabrication/modification due to the fact that most folks don't have the same style of bike you're showing, especially with the mount behind the seat.

  24. It seems to me that you would be replacing a lot of rear tires. Also when you make up a wiring joint that will be exposed to the elements (heat and rain mainly) electrical tape is not going to hold for very long. You'd be better off soldering and wrapping the wires in heatshrink. At the very least a waterproof wire nut.

  25. I'm sure the drive could be made to drive the bike from the side of the rim instead of directly on top of the tire. Would make tire wear a non issue.

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