5.0L Ford Mustang Camshaft Selection – Summit Racing Quick Flicks

5.0L Ford Mustang Camshaft Selection – Summit Racing Quick Flicks


Hi welcome to another episode of Summit Racing
Quick Flicks my name is Norm, today we are going to talk about five liter Ford camshaft
selection and some of the things that go along with that process. Okay, camshafts! 5 liter Fords internal combustion engines
they all respond to cam changes. Things you want to consider though, we want
to kind of give you an idea of where to head here before we start looking at cams particularly. Drive ratio, things that involve your drive
ratio, tires, tire diameter the height, the drive ratio in the differential, what you
are going to be doing for a transmission. Are you going to figure that you are a one
to one on your final drive? Are you going to be on an over drive situation? AOD? AODE? An O 82 gear it think? An O 64, you know over drives are all over
the place so if you are going to use that, know where you are headed. Also, the intention of the vehicle. Is it going to be a stop light to stop light
car? Are you planning on going on a thousand mile
trip for vacation? Things like that to consider and budget. Are you going to stay with just a camshaft
change alone? If you are not going to stay with a camshaft
change alone then what are your plans for the future? Am I going to get into pistons? Am I going to reconsider compression? Am I going to move into an aftermarket head? What am I going to do about valve train? Things to consider as we move through this
process here of finding a five liter camshaft for your Ford. Let’s think about a few more things and
then we will start looking at cams specifically. I am going to take for granted that you are
an EK four system, you are staying computer friendly, EFI, that you are mass air okay
very important that you be a mass air system. If you are an older version and you have converted,
you are right there with us. First of all, think about your hydraulic lifter
pre load, you are going to have to have some way of accommodating and changing and making
that adjustment for that hydraulic roller lifter pre load. Ford hydraulic lifters like about forty, forty
five, fifty thousandths worth of pre-load. Some people do set them deeper, there is some
science to that, I am not going to get into that at this point, but you are going to need
a method to make this adjustment. The factory 5.0 head is a bolt down pedestal
style rocker system, it’s a bolt to torque Ford in their grand design built a four forty
four lift, built the pushrod link, the geometry, the torque spec all around that preload. So when you change the lift you are going
to have to a way of making that adjustment on the preload. There are some ways to do that, the most expensive
way is to go to an adjustable valve train on an aftermarket head. If you are not going that way or if it is
not in your budget or for whatever reason, the factory Ford head, you can still get there. The way you would do that is shim kit through
Ford Racing and or push rod length also there is an aftermarket roller rocker that is a
five sixteenths bolt down goes right on the factory head its manufactured by Harland Sharp
and it is adjustable so that would allow you to come back into range on your regular push
rod no shims so nice thought there but you’re going to have to have some form or some method
of making the hydraulic roller lifter preload correct. Okay so let’s talk about cams specifically
then. I want to go in two different paths today,
I want to try to go with that 270, 280, 290 horse range maybe a 300 horse power 302 something
like that or a 300 horsepower 306 depending on what you have and then we will take you
beyond the horsepower per cubic inch range here in just a moment. But for the horse per cube range or maybe
a hair less, you have the E cam, the B cam, the F cam all Ford, the Trick flow 2000, COMP,
Crane, Crower, Lunati, everybody makes a cam for your range on a 5.0 hydraulic roller platform. In here, you are probably going to stay in
here with something with a larger lobe separation angle, 112, 114 helps to computer learn and
pull the right information without throwing codes or the service engine light. You are going to need at the upper end of
this probably a custom program. I will say this in passing, the E Cam, the
baby of the bunch is a CARBEO friendly cam for those people that are looking specifically
for that range or that qualifier. There are a few other CARBEO cams on the market. But coming back in perhaps with the F Cam,
nice lift, durations coming in towards the smaller side of 220’s and that is probably
what we are literally looking at here. There is something in the smaller 220’s
the larger 2 teens, lifts in that 460, 470, 480 range maybe a 490; this range will allow
you to accommodate your factory head. It will allow you to accommodate your factory
fuel system. Keep in mind that your 19 pound hour injector
is only good to a theoretical 304 or so horsepower. This range helps keep the necessity of other
things at a minimum any time you do any cam lifter or any cam swap on the 5.0 I would
recommend going with the matching spring retainer lock package even if it’s only a 15 to 20
thousandths lift increase from the 444, you may not have to correct seat pressure at open
valve, the big thing there is to bring that valve shut when you reach that higher lift,
you get the flutter on the valve, you lose compression, you lose power so always run
the correct spring. Again the duration range we are talking about
here in the 220’s or higher 2 teens allows me to stay with my factory gearing in a lot
of cases. It allows me to stay with my factory converter
if am an automatic. Will a 373 benefit me? Yes it will. Do I need a 411? Probably not, in fact a 411 may hinder me
in some ways, the gear ratio change, always something to keep in mind around these cam
patterns but usually not a necessity. Again, torque converter, if I need a two grand
or 2400 converter, can I run one, sure you can. Is it always a necessity? No its not. Bear in mind as you get deeper into converters
you are giving away efficiency. This 300 horsepower or less range, this horse
per cubic inch range or less really helps your build by not having to move into a bunch
of required add ons down the road or at the moment actually. Okay let’s think about camshafts specifically
then. We are going to start with the smaller side
of the spectrum, I am going to talk about cams that are 460, 470, 480 490 lift range
running lobe separations of 112, 114 maybe even out toward 116..118 in that you are going
to see duration numbers at 50 in the upper teens 214…216…218, the smaller 220’s
… 222 like that type of range. Those cams with a few bolt on are quite capable
of getting you near or at a horse per cube. That is a nice range for a 300 horse 302 is
a nice package, it’s a livable package it’s a drivable package. It is a fun package to deal with because there
is not a lot of head ace that goes along with that and it’s easier on your wallet. I don’t have to have an aftermarket cylinder
head, I can have one but I don’t have to. I do have to think about some things as I
move to the bigger side of that range though, maybe a converter in the larger numbers, especially
as duration goes up; converter is something you are probably going to want to watch for. Also as duration goes up, gear set changes. Anyone of the cams we are looking at in this
range would definitely like to have a 355 gear or a 373 gear. Do I need a 411? Probably not. The beautiful side of this though is, I can
probably run my stock converter, I can probably run my stock gear but there is also always
the necessity of bringing those into the picture as you are moving into the larger numbers
or into the larger camshafts into this range. Okay we talked about the entry level or the
more moderate level of horsepower range camshafts. At this range here, the more aggressive profiles,
we know we have got to get into something for adjustable valve train weather it is an
aftermarket head or a conversion rocker or something you have to move beyond that pedestal
shim kit at this point. Also, the enhancements that you may have done
at the upper range of your smaller conversion, your smaller cam selection are probably going
to go bye bye as you move up in to the upper the range of this camshaft range. Your one ten liter hour pump is probably going
to be replaced by a 155 as you move deeper into this cam area. Your injector that you may have gone from
your 19 to your 24 well hey your 24 may go by bye as you move into the deeper range of
this cam selection here cam offering . in this range, converters are going to be mandatory
instead of an optional. You can be at 2400, 3000, 3200 on a converter
depending on what your application is. Converter ideas should be based around the
gear ratio. Gear ratio changes are going to be mandatory;
you are not going to get away without a gear change here. Unless you have one of those rare cars that
was 373 from the factory and you are working with the smaller side of things. Having said that to say this cam family, we
are starting to look at cams with durations areas of 228/230 at 50 perhaps on up to 248
at 50.. really big numbers. Hence the need for a converter, the need for
a gear set, the need for an adjustable valve train. Also keep in mind in that 500 zone that I
mentioned before , you have to verify valve to piston clearance on the factory Ford piston
okay, Ford mentions it I am going to mention it again. Lift in this range is going to start somewhere
in the upper 518’s, 520 and move towards, gosh 540… 560 I mean big numbers very big power producing
numbers. The upside of all of this requirement all
of this cam selection and cam change is great acceleration. Snappy… seat of the pants type fun… can
I say fun… I said fun alright so snappy type fun.. quick
at the track. Very aggressive type cam patterns that will
get you into that 340 horse zone really quick. Add ons become a necessity though at this
point this is no longer just a cam change with matching springs and retainers. We are talking a calibrated mass air, the
upper level here is going to need a custom program like I said a fuel system to bring
all this on board so you are not lean at RPM, the gear set, the converter if you are an
automatic, all of that is going to come into play. But some beautiful stuff, in this range you‘ve
got the x cam from Ford Racing the z cam.. zila cam from Ford Racing, my favorite perhaps. Also Trick flow is in here with upper level
with their 3003 cam I believe it is and their 3002 which is a hair smaller. Their 3003 is probably the upper edge of where
we would go today in this discussion as a stage two or phase two type camshafts , more
aggressive, you can always go beyond that but I am going to save that for another day. But this level, very aggressive. In fact If you are looking at the Trick Flow
on the big cam I would say your bottom end is going to need some beef. The factory case, the factory block is only
going to take you so far and you are going to start getting the twist so other things
start to come into play here as you move into the upper level of this range. I think that in closing I would say a few
things obviously the deeper you go, the more horse power, the quicker, the snappier all
of those adjectives come into play. Also the more other ideas need to be on board
here, the more you’re going to be into other parts you know heads are probably here, maybe
a steel crank a steel rod things that come in to play as you reach that upper level a
main girdle definitely a necessity in the upper range here. From there you know the gear set the converter
as I mentioned your fuel system, you have to keep your eye on fuel delivery all of the
time with your 5.0, programming, calibrated mass air. Just an idea for you guys or gals that are
supercharger friendly, Ford offers a friendly supercharger cam, I believe it’s the F it
runs a wider lobe separation angle than the others. They are not the only ones. You look at a supercharger, keep in mind that
you are forcing the air, you don’t need tons of durations you don’t need tons of
lift because the air is being pushed through to the back side of the valve and into the
chamber. What you do need though is more lobe separations
angle. You want to keep the overlap reduced in a
supercharger situation. Having said that, I think I am going to close
for today.

About the Author: Michael Flood

12 Comments

  1. Hey great informative video. I have a 89 GT drop top I got BBK headers 17 mm BBK cold air intake MSD ignition with 2-Step rev limiter Cobra intake manifold speed I want to get the B cam Ford and I can get a really good deal on some 4.10s you said that could hinder me can you tell me how so please so I shouldn't do?

  2. What Cam Lift or KIT would I need to reach 325 hp keeping stock bottom end and it;s a 1985 so carburated NOT EFI ? "M code Roller Motor" Kinda need to be Budget build though
    ~ Willing to do new Aftermarket Heads, Roller Rockers, Lifters, Push Rods ($1,500. in parts)

    ***Car currently has orig. Holly 600 Carburater, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, 8.8 Rear with 3:73 gear, BBK Long Tube / Flowmaster exhaust, T5 "World Class tranny, MSD Dizzy,
    (Frame Connectors and Torque Boxes) A/C and Smog Pump Delete

  3. I have a stock 85 Roller Motor with that X303 stock .444 cam and – stock Bottom end and I want to slap on some aftermarket heads (170cc 2.02 / 1.60 valves 300 springs 1.6 Roller Rockers) for more flow … Lookin for about 280- 300 HP that's all…  Think I can get there or close without a cam? No valve to piston issue until I go large on Cam correct?
    Car already has BBK Long Tubes, Demon 625 Carb and RPM Intake …T-5 World Class , 8.8 rear 3:73 gears ….

  4. The Lobes on da Cam go 'round and 'round, 'round and 'round, 'round and 'round.
    The Lobes on da Cam go 'round and 'round, Awwwwwwl Dayhé"🔫 Looooooorng.

  5. I got an 86 302 Mustang 5 speed with 355 gears and want to know what cam I should go with using stock heads for the "300 horse 302 package"??

  6. I have a near Mint 1988 Lincoln Town Car with 5.0. I would like to do some things, trying to minimize efforts, mainly just make it sound and run better than stock, not looking for extreme performance. With the Automatic transmission and gears that are from factory be compatible with any kind of after market cam? Can other Transmission options work? I dont mind doing what needs to be done as long as its not too far down the fabrication road, its not intended to be a daily driver and I know it sounds like a useless endeavor but its all I got and its what I want to do.

  7. Recently bought a Crane hydraulic flat tappet cam from Summit. Engine would NOT start, then discovered after 30 attempts, the cam firing order did NOT match the cam card!!!! It was ground on the wrong firing order!!! Ground on the 351W firing order not the 302 firing order. It went flat from so many attempted starts and Crane only wants to replace the cam if I pay to ship it to them! What about the lifters? The clean out rebuild? This was negligence, pure and simple. Engine long gone out of shop with Erson cam. No more Crane in my shop.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *