Bandsaw wheel mounts

Bandsaw wheel mounts

So, here’s my top
wheel mount block. And, I cut that out on my
big bandsaw using a paper template.
But, if you don’t have a bandsaw it’s all straight cuts, so it
could be done with a table saw. With multiple cuts to
hog out some of these areas. No, a little problem
I’m running into here. I’m drilling my shaft hole and my drill is just
not long enough to reach through
to the other side. So, I need to come in
from the other side. But, the trick is, how to
line up those holes. So, what I’m gonna do is
I’m gonna take this drill and drill to the bottom of
my hole out the other side. And that will serve
as a pilot hole for coming in from the
other side because that drill the
little peak on there the point likes to follow any
existing pilot hole. Perfectly lined up. On most bandsaws you have
a thing for adjusting the upper wheel
up and down for tensioning. And then another mechanism
on that thing that tilts is so on this bansaw, I have this
frame that goes around here. And a tension crank that
pulls up on that. And then this know here is
used for adjusting the tilt. But, I find that… I almost never have to adjust
the tilt on the top wheel. Because the blade, if
the bandsaw is well made, tracks well
enough without it. So, on this new bandsaw.
I’m gonna try to simplify this
mechanism a little bit. So, for this bandsaw,
I’ve eliminated the frame that goes
around this block. So, the block…
My original idea was to have
something on here. And another piece of wood
that screws onto the back here. But, I can change how much
it screws in by. So that, that changes
the tilt of the block and it just
slides up and down against these pieces of wood. Now, as I was making
this I realized I could probably
improve on that a little bit more. The problem
with having this block down here is I had to cut away an
awful lot of this block. And, because the wheels
always pushing down on here. Which, by the way,
tries to tilt us forward. That weakens the block here.
But, what I realized when
I put it in here is…
I only have a ledge on the back. So, I could just
push it against there so, I can
eliminate this one. And make the block
bigger down here and all I need is the one
that’s back here. So, what I’ve done is I’ve
chiseled this out deeper. And I’ll change the plans so that the board is just
gonna be narrow here. So you won’t have to
chisel it like that. And then the block
is gonna have a longer bit that
extends into here. So I get maximum vertical
range of motion here. Because I can slide quite a
bit vertically on here. And that means I get good
adjustment range and I won’t need this thing
going across the front here so it’ll be nice and sturdy and
I’ll still have some adjustment. So, I’ve updated
my CAD drawings. To reflect the new way of
doing the top wheel mount. So, here’s the top wheel. And this here is the
frame and you can see here how the wheel
mount protrudes into a gap in the frame. And I’ve also added
the details here. This bolt here is
for doing the tilt. And this is a hole and
there’s gonna be a nut in there for pulling that whole
block up to give it tension. So, I’ve actually cut this part
out here. And, I’m gonna use that
as a template for cutting it out of a
solid block of wood. I finished out milling
out this block and the template’s gotten
a little bit ratty. But, I don’t need that anymore. So, I’ve got here
the hole all the way through. Which my pipe
is gonna go through. This dips
into the frame for the back support. And then, this threaded rod
here… is gonna get this piece on it
and then a nut on here. I’ll probably put
a knob on that. And that will allow me to adjust
the tilt of the wheel by… changing how far I set this nut. And for the blade tension there’s gonna be a bolt
that goes into here. And I have to put
a nut against there. Now if you
have a square nut that makes it real easy.
Just put it in there. But, these hex nuts they
might twist in there and they don’t distribute
the weight very well. So what you can do is, you can
take a washer and bend it. So, I put this in a vice and
I hit it with a hammer. And that holds the nut and
prevents it from turning. And it spreads out the force. So we can just put that in here. And, now if we turn the screw.
The screws gonna be
fixed up here. That’ll move this whole block
up and down. So, I’ve milled out
the bottom wheel mount, again using
the templates out of a solid piece of Maple
that used to be firewood. And it’s gonna get attached
to the frame with these 4 inch long screws.
1/4 inch screws. And they’re gonna stick out
about this far into the frame. But, before I
actually screw it and drill the pilot
holes and whatnot I’m just gonna clamp it onto
the frame to see how it works. So, I put that wheel mount on
there with a clamp. And… I also clamped a little
piece of wood to the front here because
this whole thing is kind of tippy. And it
would actually tip over if I didn’t have that
on there right now. And, I’ve got the blade on here. And I’ve adjusted the top wheel
to point at the bottom one. But, I’m not sure if you can
see this very well. But, the bottom
wheel, is kind of pointing upwards
a little bit. If we look down here. We can see
the face of the bottom wheel. So that means that bottom wheel is kind of tilted this way.
So, either I’ll need to shim it or shave
away a little bit. Chances are I didn’t
get these layers quite lined up when I glued
the frame together. So, the next thing to do is…
I’m gonna take this frame
on the workbench. And check if that’s square.
And if it isn’t I’ll shave it square
on the bottom. So, checking this with a square I can see that this down here
it’s neither flat nor square. The gap is much bigger
on the front than the back. So
this bottom face is definitely
tilting upwards. Unfortunately, I haven’t
got a power tool that I can get in there
and flatten this. So, I’m gonna have to do this
with a hand plane. So, that’s reasonably square
and flat in here now. So, the wheel mount should
fit in there nicely. And it doesn’t rock. Now, the other thing I need
to make sure of is that the shaft is
perpendicular to the frame, in this
direction like that. So, checking that with a square
you can see the gap is very even. So, I’ve got
it positioned just right this way. And I’ve attached
it with a bar clamp. So that it doesn’t move.
Because the next thing to do is just to tap
each of these screws and that marks where I
need to drill the pilot holes. Well, I just had the
wheel on and the alignment wasn’t
entirely perfect. So, I’m gonna shim
this block with this very thin
strip of wood. And then re-tighten those bolts. So, I’ve got my wheels
properly aligned now. I put some brass shims
around the plumbing pipe just to eliminate play. So, the plumbing
pipe really isn’t as good as
proper shafting. But, you can make do with
plumbing pipe. Now, let’s look at how
the blade is tracking on here. Now, I don’t know how all this
shows up in the video but… So, you can see the blade
is loose here. Down to the other wheel. And it’s running
right on the peaks of the crowns
of my wheels. And, even if I go out of my way to push this blade off center. So, I’m gonna push it
almost of the wheel. Now, if I let go of it.
And I turn it some more. It comes right
back on center. That’s the magic
of crown pulleys.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Wow, amazing! Especially impressed with the crown pulley demonstration at the end. Can't wait to see more of this build.

  2. I feel like starting to work with wood. But i have no tools at all nor wood. What would you recommnd for a beginner? Im planning to buy a Black&Decker 400 w jigsaw, do you think it is good for a beginner?

  3. i been waching the few vids over the past few weeks ib think i would like to make myself a bandsaw what sized blade is that the band one as i want to get one 🙂

  4. Here's Mathias explaining crown pulley's: /watch?v=6sM0Qjumyro (heh, or just search "crown pulley" and his youtube name :P) I remembered that video, too. Good stuff.

  5. Ah… "the magic of crowned pulleys" and parts that "used to be firewood"! Thanks again for your videos. Truly inspirational!

  6. I also got really interested in how crown pulleys worked (looks so magical!), so I did a quick search on google, which took me to a video on a woodworking site. It took a while before I figured out that it was actually your video, and even your site.

  7. Изготовить данную ленточную пилу без самой ленточной пилы очень сложно ?

  8. very good but you must let us see the plane and how and how to be more precise measures as harmonized elebador or tempering the blade for

  9. Neither. Melamine. Plus, don't call that abomination of a material, MDF, wood. There is a special place in hell for that stuff.

  10. could you make that top mount from several pieces, glued together, im thinking this would be easier to do without using a bandsaw

  11. gracias sr. matthias wendel por la traduccion de algunos de sus programas si pudiera enviar mas videos traducidos

  12. I built only the C part of the frame and then squared and flattened the bottom and top sides on a planer before gluing the legs/wheel supports in. I was able to square them as I glued and everything was perfectly aligned on the first try. Maybe I just got lucky 🙂

  13. Thank you You are really professional and professor at the machines. that you please explain to us the sizes that rely on them in making various machines

  14. Have you thought about using a 25 mm orger bit we buy them locally at tool-mart (UK) for around $4:50 each they can drill full length in 1 go, as long as you use backing board underneath when drill you don't get any tear out hope this helps

  15. I really do love that you put your "mistakes" and explain your thinking process. It makes the videos enjoyable knowing this is a evolving process and not some cookie cutter template. Thank you for you amazing videos, i wish i would have found you earlier.

  16. Good Design,, and I personally like the evolution and problem-solving. The only criticism I have at this point in your build is your mistaken belief in how plywood and it's layers are weak or strong depending on the orientation of the layers. The strength of plywood comes from resistance to SHEAR forces of the glue laminations that form each layer, NOT the grain of the layers themselves. But I think I understand this is a learning process, good luck and I will definetly see through to the completion of this project.

  17. Eres un cabron q herramienta tan chingona aces y también un genio q eso es lo impresionante mis respetos para ty como carpintero o inventor

  18. I have neither a band saw nor pantorouter, and want to build one of them. Am I right in guessing the band saw might be my best first build?  And which of the two do you use more?

  19. Thanks for all you video mate and your plans made three of them now box jig, pantrouter, and bandsaw I'm going to rebuild same parts that did not get finished as good as I hoped but started to looking for jig file but only got the other two where do I go to get your plans again and will they be the same as bandsaw 2 I think it was called it was 2 years ago now. cheers David.

  20. Hi Mathias.  If I cannot find a chunk of wood that big, could I laminate pieces of pine to make this part?  You think of things I wouldn't even begin to think of so I wanted to know if there might be an issue doing that.   Dude, you are freakin' inspiring!  Also, where do you get your bearings and shafts etc.?  This is going to be my first build.  It seems like it is the most used tool in your videos so I figure that should be my starting point.  FYI, when I complete the build, I WILL go to Home Depot and get that incredibly ugly green paint to finish my saw.  I will paint it green in your honor.  🙂

  21. Love all your videos….. but… I am wondering where you get your Baltic Birch since it is rather expensive around me here in the northeastern US…. It's a great product though for almost anything… Dave

  22. Could you explain why the saw follows the highest point of the wheel? It looks like it was tracking something fierce, but I'm not familiar with the physics behind it.

  23. Hi Matthias. Just got the plans last week and am purchasing the material. Does it make any difference to have the axles go into endgrain (therefore being supported by long grain) and the other way around? Seems as though you made one axle support each way if I'm not seeing things wrong. I realize both are massive enough to negate any issues. Also would you imagine any benefits in orienting the grain in a certain way if one were to laminate the blocks? ie, "use quartersawn wide material and laminate in the same direction as the C-body", etc?

  24. did you glue several flat pieces or just one piece and the material is it pine or hard wood or spruce

  25. I don't see why you need a mechanism for adjusting the tilt. If the wheels don't line up, it must be because the saw is not build acurately enough, and I would think that should be adjusted with shims or planing of sufaces or whatever to get the wheels to line up. Once the wheels are aligned, you never need to turn that knob again. The alignment should be part of the accuracy of the build.

  26. Hi, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful to me, they are all very good, I would like to know what kind of motor you use for the saw, thank you.

  27. i was wondering why i never see him use any osb?Is there a reason ?Is it not a good enough quality?or is there some other reason?

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