Building, Painting and Weathering Trumpeter 1/35 ChTZ-65 Tractor Part 2/3

Building, Painting and Weathering Trumpeter 1/35 ChTZ-65 Tractor Part 2/3


Welcome back!
We’re continuing with priming of the already built tractor. We gonna use AK red primer,
combined with black primer in order to achieve better coloring of the rusted tractor.
In the background you can see the compressor, which is set to almost 2 bars or 25 PSI.
This is a bit high but anyway I prefer it that way.
So we gonna mix the paints as you can see here /primers/ and then we’ll continue with
priming the tractor. Hey again!
We’re continuing with painting the tractor. This is what we have for the primer combination.
Which is relatively nice color simulating rust.
We’re not gonna paint the tractor in full we gonna add some shades using “Rust Effects”
set from AK Interactive. Usually we use Gunze paints or Tamiya. This
time for the sake of the demonstration, we’re gonna use AK.
They gonna be used straight out of the bottle. And have fun watching us paint!
We’re adding more pale color of rust. As you can see it adds some different shades.
You don’t have to worry about the colors, because they gonna be beneath the standard
paint. Only the chips will show what’s underneath
it. As you can hear the environment, this is outside
view of the tractor. I wanted to show you in the sunlight the difference.
As you case see the paint is not yet dry. This is just right after the painting. In
the daylight you can see how nice those paints are applied.
Too bad we gonna loose this, because we gonna chip it. We gonna paint a green layer over
it. We gonna use hairspray to spray over it. As
a chipping medium. Afterwards we gonna paint the color of the
hood, which will be different from the color of the tractor.
As if it was made afterwords. This is how you do it.
It dries very fast and that is enough. That’s actually more than enough.
We gonna wait a bit and start painting the other color over it.
We’re starting with the grey. We gonna use those three colors.
And paint over the hairspray. This is just the first layer of the paint.
We gonna apply couple of more. That’s a technique used and popularized by
Michael Rinaldi. One of the Gods of armor scale modeling.
He swears to that technique. And he is very good at it!
Thanks to his books, many of us knows about it, and now we can use it without the need
of experiment. To the first paint we add few drops of blue.
To make a new color. It will give us a lot more for the eye.
This is the second shade – little bit blue-ish. Even if you can tell the difference now, you
won’t be able to after we chip it. This is so called – eye candy.
It is candy for the eye because it cheats you, distract you.
Especially at a show, this is some important thing to do.
Then we add few drops of white or the gray that I’ve showed you.
Couple of drops of IPA or any diluting medium. In order to dilute it, just to make some sort
of a fog. This is the final step – white.
We are doing the white where eventually the sun gonna pale it.
So, the next is chipping. We gonna use tap water, pre moisten it, to
activate the hairspray or the chipping medium, whatever you decided to use.
Then we gonna start rubbing it with a brush. This is the starting point from which we gonna
do the weathering. The chipping will be used as a guideline.
Where the streaks gonna go, where the rust spots are gonna be, or the accumulated rust
gonna stick… …and so on.
Its important to clean your brush quite often. And if you’ve used a weaker chipping medium,
you can add a thinner like IPA or even something stronger, to activate the layer beneath.
We used pretty harsh hairspray so our job is quite easy.
Application of the hairspray, just before the paint.
We’re continuing with the paint This is
gonna be our first layer of green paint.
After which, we gonna apply nuances of paler, more diluted with lighter color like these
– green. To simulate the sun fading.
Once painted green, we’re adding lighter shade of green, highly diluted with IPA.
We gonna mix it and we gonna spray it over thin layers of the previous paints. Very thin.
This is the result after the second layer. Now we gonna add some yellow into the leftovers
of that paint and we gonna simulate the sun effects.
Now with the highly diluted yellow with the leftovers of the green, we gonna paint the
tractor. And as we did before we gonna pre moisten
the surface and then we gonna start chipping. Took it outside so it can be more visible
on the video.
We gonna use toothpick to make scratches. Like it was scratched while passing through
something. As you can see the tapping motion creates
different types of chips. You can use whatever you like – stiff brush,
soft brush…whatever suits your needs best. This is the final result of the chipping,
which is gonna be the guide for further weathering. As you can see its not dried yet. But I assume
that you get the idea. We gonna seal everything to prevent it from
reactivating the chipping medium. We gonna use AK matt varnish.
Next we will do wash from bright green as if damages over the years on the tractor reveal
the earlier paint or the paint that wasn’t damaged from the sun or worn from the use.
Pretty much that is the base color. We gonna use a bit of that and its gonna use
capillary action and gonna stick just where you need it.
Now we gonna pre-moisten the surface which will ease the spread of the wash.
It looks scary at the beginning but you’ll see that once spread, it will match the color
and everything will come into place. We gonna repeat the process over the most
of the upper parts of the tractor. We will not bother you showing you everything.
It is visible – the difference between the depth here and here.
This is the completed wash. As you can see the difference in the depth of the color is
huge. Its not dried yet.
But overall look – is like that. You see the paint in the angles, small places,
good start for weathering. Next wash we’re doing, because the color of
the hood is different, and the paint is blue -ish in color, we gonna add a nuance spreading
a little bit less compared to the tractor, but with the same idea.
The color looks odd but in the end you’ll see the result, the results are wonderful.
This is the end result of both blue and green washes.
Onto the next step! Before the next stage of the weathering we
gonna paint the handles and the seat, which is nothing of particular interest, so we gonna
skip /filming/ that part. Next we gonna use some oils and the sponge
technique to brighten a little bit, the overall look.
This does very fine detailing. As you can see, once the streaks are done
over it, it will blend everything together. It will look even better than what you see
now. This is after the first stage of the sponge.
It seems a little bit overdone, but most of that will be covered after the dust is applied,
so you’ll loose the density of all the chipping and the rust.
We are continuing with the streaks. The chips we will use as a starting point.
And with burnt umber and raw umber, we gonna make the streaks.
With a fine brush.. Then we gonna blend everything with moistened
in white spirit flat brush. This easily can be overdone, however oils
are forgiving and can be cleaned. The final effect will be visible once everything
is dry. Here you can see the streaks before blending,
and here you can see the streaks after. The whole tractor is covered with them. You
can do it in several colors. Depending on the effect that you are looking
for, it will give you the idea that you have to go for.
We are doing the same thing with the hood. Here they are more visible because of the
color. Otherwise the technique is exactly the same.
While the oil streaks are drying we are gonna paint the wheels or the parts where they rub
with the tracks. It should be shining metal, and for that purpose we are using Mr.Metal
Color, which is a very nice representation of a metal looking color.
Although those parts are not so visible, for the purpose of this video we are doing them
too. In order to blend the effect of the seat,
we gonna filter it with MIG camouflage filter. That will blend the brown and make it look
more proper. Even though the seat is not visible once the
hood is installed, we’d like to make it look a bit better than it is right now.
We have fixed the track and we gonna paint it with MIG Dark Tracks and shade of Rust
tracks. We are doing the individual tracks to hide
the basic color of the plastic. This is the second type of track paint.
We gonna do some nuances over the tracks just for the sake of difference.
Its gotta be random. And once the dirt and dust are applied, everything
will come into place. The final stage of painting of the tracks
before we apply mud and dust .. we gonna use True Metal /oil paste/, rubbed
onto the bottom of the box. This is a new technique that we came up with,
and now we gonna share it. We gonna rub the track where it should meet
with the ground and then we gonna see what the result is.
It is visible how only on the finest edges it touches the steel /True Metal/ and that
creates the most realistic effect, using AK True Metal.
For the inner part we gonna use finger rubbing. Not press it very hard, just to create the
shade of steel color, which is not so visible on the tractor but the parts which are have
very nice overall effect.

About the Author: Michael Flood

8 Comments

  1. The crazy world of modelling – getting the right primer colour for rust! Great videos of an excellent subject, Mitko.

  2. Яко! Имах удоволствието да го видя на живо в София.
    Не ви видях тази година на изложбата.

  3. Fascinating detailed videos – so enjoyable to watch and so well produced. I particularly like that you are filming separately to your partner who is doing the modelling work.

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