Buying A Used E Bike | What To Look Out For

Buying A Used E Bike | What To Look Out For

– When it comes to
buying an E mountain bike we all know that it costs
thousands of pounds. However, there’s plenty
of bargains to be had on the secondhand market. So today’s video we’re taking a look at how to buy secondhand. (electronic rumbling) When it comes to buying your
E mountain bike secondhand there’s a couple of options. First, it’s gonna be from a dealer. They might have a few secondhand or ex-demo rental bikes in stock they’re looking to shift on. Secondly, it’s gonna be
buying private from the likes of Facebook Marketplace,
GoldenTree, and eBay, things like that. (upbeat music) Now some of the great things
about buying from a dealer is actually knowledge of that
whole bike shop in general, those guys work on bikes nine
to five every single day. So their knowledge about
E-bikes is gonna be massive, if you’ve got any questions. Next up is the servicin’ of the bike. That bike woulda been for a strict regime where it’s going to be checked
for every single thing. So every little fault that could possibly happen with your
bike shoulda been ironed out. The other great this is about
the history of the bike. People that have their
bike serviced by bike shops are gonna get known by
the mechanics as well. So their gonna know the previous owner. Buying from a well known dealer
is definitely a good move it might lessen the chances of the E-bike actually bein stolen and
you buying a stolen bike. They also might be able to offer you a limited warranty on that bike. It might be a week, it might
be a month something like that but it’s definitely at their discretion. And lastly if you’re just
starting out on an E-bike they’re gonna have all
those spares and all the kit under one roof, as well as the knowledge. Now obviously there’s a few down sides when it comes to buying from a dealer. Firstly, I think the price, you might pay a little
bit more than you would buying from a private seller. Secondly, it’s obviously the stock and the sizes and the
colours of the actual bikes that they’re gonna have in stock. It’s gonna be a lot less than obviously if you were to buy new. And obviously when you
walk into that bike shop you can have nice, new, shiny E-bikes staring at you in the
face and that temptation is gonna be pretty hard to resist. (upbeat music) The second option is a private seller. Usually all this stuff
can be found online. Websites such as, eBay,
Facebook Marketplace, GoldenTree, Craiglist, the
list is literally endless. You’re gonna find a big selection of bargain bikes out there. But you can definitely get stung as well. When it comes to online there’s gonna be a massive choice of bikes on there, it’s gonna vary in sizes, colours, and the different levels of condition that a bike is gonna be in. It’s all going to reflect
in the final price. So you might actually find your dream bike at a bargain price. So the down sides to buying secondhand, obviously there are a few. But firstly I think there’s obviously going to be no warranty with the bikes. If something was to go
wrong with the main parts, like the motor, frame,
battery, things like that, it’s up to you to fix it. So it could get costly
if it was to go wrong. Secondly, there’s going to
be no history with the bike, aside from what the seller
is going to tell you it could just be a pack of lies. And lastly, I think if the deal’s too good to be true, it probably is. It could be a stolen
bike something like that. So, suggest you walk away. When it comes to buying a
secondhand E mountain bike there’s definitely a few
things you need to consider. If you want a hardtail or do you need a full suspension bike for the type of riding
you’re gonna be doing. Also think about the size of the bike. Do you need a medium or do you need a XL. But we’ve done those videos before, we’re gonna throw to them
at the end of this video. (upbeat music) Now you definitely don’t
wanna be buyin a bike without viewing or test riding it first. The test ride is a massive part of buying a secondhand E-bike. It’s your chance to test
out the whole thing. Make sure the system’s
work and motor’s nice. There’s no horrible noises or nothing too out of place on the bike. Obviously if it’s just buying it online you can hide a lot of problems in a photo. You make it look a lot better
than the actual bike is. So getting hands on with
it is definitely vital. (upbeat music) A really important part
of buying secondhand is to actually work on a bit of a relationship with the seller. Just talk to them about the bike, where they’ve been ridin’, how they rode. Just gonna give you a little
bit of inside information to how that bike might have been treated. Also it might help with
negotiation later on. It might knock a few pounds
off that final sale price. (upbeat music) When it comes to viewing your
secondhand E mountain bike I think it’s really important take a few basic tool along with you. Just to check things like the
chain wear, things like that. It’s gonna give you an idea of how well that bike’s actually been treated. (upbeat music) So the main part of the bike
that you’re gonna be buyin’, obviously is the frame. Now this is vitally
important to take your time to check over. Just check obviously if
it’s aluminium frame, all the welds and things like that. Make sure there’s no cracks or creases. Any big rock strikes on the down tube. Have a look around the
motor and the motor casin’. Things like on the full suspension bike just check the chain
stays and the seat stays for again dinks, cracks, marks on it that you know, definitely don’t want on there. Obviously if you’re buying a carbon bike just check that there is
no big paint chunks missing cause that could mean something’s hit it and caused it quite a stress. Also just beware of things like stickers on bikes in abnormal places. Ask if it’s okay to peel away that sticker cause it could be hiding
something pretty nasty. A quick check on the bearings on the bike that you’re gonna be buyin is definitely something worth while. Best way to do that is
just to grab the back wheel to check the rear wheel bearings. Give it a push side to side whilst holding on to the swing arm. Just make sure there’s
no movement in that. Obviously there’s gonna be a little bit of flex in the spokes. Now moving down to the crank, obviously this is part
of the motor as well, so if there’s any play in this one you definitely wanna be
factoring it into the cost, or walkin’ away. Just hold the crank arms
again pull them side to side to make sure there’s no
big movement in them. Movin up to the headset,
just hold the front brake put your hand around
the top headset curtain push the bike forward and back. If there’s any movement in the headset it’s quite easily adjusted but it could mean the
bearings are breaking down, things like that. Obviously on the front
wheel is exactly the same as the rear wheel. Just give it a good push side to side and if that front wheel’s knocking it could be a bit of
play in that bearings. It’s not necessarily massive
cost involved in these. It’s just quite labour intensive, especially if you’re getting
that work done at a bike shop. (upbeat music) One of the most expensive
parts of the E-bike after the motor and the battery is obviously gonna be the
suspension units on your bike. You might have a rear shock obviously if you’re on a full suspension bike. But obviously a suspension fork as well. But your definitely want to take your time to look around these. Just make sure there’s
no big marks or scratches or dents in the stanchers, no uneven wear, creekin’ or crackin’ goin on. Just make sure every
adjuster works as well. Making sure locks out
and every click is there. If theses things are showing
any signs of damage or wear then these things are
gonna be super expensive to get replaced or serviced. (upbeat music) It’s worth takin a minute
just to have a look at the wheels on your E-bike as well. Give em a quick spin to make
sure they’re nice and true. If they’re buckled it’s not a major job for a bike shop to sort out. Bigger things to think about
are things like splits, cracks and big dents in the rim. Just means that if
you’re gonna run tubeless or something like that, then you might want to stick
a new rim on that wheel. (upbeat music) The battery on your E-bike is definitely a big part of the bike. Now these things do have a shelf life and they are quite costly to replace. Bike’s such as Specialised
and Shimano Motored bikes are gonna have a Bluetooth
app which will actually connect to the battery and tell you how much battery life is left, how many cycles, things like that. So they are super important. If a bike you’re buying hasn’t
got Bluetooth connectivity or an app to show the battery life, things such as Yamaha or the Bosch units. Then the seller might
actually be super prepared and gone to a dealer and
got a print out of that. And show you the proof of what
juice is left in the battery. When it comes to checking the battery out you just want to whip it out and have a visual inspection of the battery itself. Just check there’s no big splits or cracks or dents in it. If there is damage then it’s probably gonna
need a replacement. Damaged batteries are
definitely a big risk. Also just check the connections
on the battery itself, and on the bike. Just check they’re not
rusty or any moisture things like that has got into them. Also the battery secured
to the key mechanism. Just make sure the mechanism’s workin’ and you’ve got a key that
actually fits that lock itself. Also just check out the charge as well. Just check out the condition of the plug, the wires, things like that. Also check out the
connection to the battery. Just make sure that’s
all lookin’ good as well. ‘Cause if these are
damaged, the actual charges for the batteries can be quite costly too. (upbeat music) Now the heart of the E-bike
is definitely the motor. It’s something you want to
spend a bit of time lookin at. Now a few bikes, if they do
have Blutooth connectivity will actually show on the app. Things like the Yamaha
and the Bosch system are only gonna get that
information from a dealer. So it’s up to you to
check it out yourself. First things first, just have
a quick visual inspection of the motor and all the cases. Just check there’s no big
hits been goin on down there. Give the crack a quick
spin to see if there’s any resistance in there or any funny noises. Whilst you’re down there,
just check the seals as well. If there’s rust in there it
could mean that the motor has been submerged or got
a lot of water damage. Next up turn the system on. If the motor works nice
and the system works it should flash up no
error codes or no beepin’. And when you test ride
the bike just make sure every single power mode is actually delivering a good amount of
power from the back wheel. And eco is definite, should have a big change
when it goes into boost mode, things like that. On your test ride the motor
should be nice and smooth with good power delivery. There should be no unexpected noises or rumblings going on down there. If there are problems in this area then it all can be fixed. There’s load of parts available online, and your dealer should be able to look after you as well
sending that motor back. So don’t get worried if
there is a motor problem, it can be fixed but it
can be quite costly. A really good part of the E-bike is actually the display unit. The odometer readin on there is obviously gonna tell you how many
miles the bike itself has actually done over its years. Also things like if a dongle
is being fitted to the bike or it’s being de-restricted. Some of those devices actually
half the speed of the wheels so in turn it’s gonna
give you half the mileage. So it might not be a true read out. And obviously if you are buying
a de-restricted or dongled E-bike there’s gonna be a
lot more wear on the motor and all the associated components. (upbeat music) If you are buying private
then how do you know that the bike isn’t actually stolen? Well here’s a few tips for ya. I think when you first
turn up you’re gonna get a general vibe of the
person you’re buying from. Do they look like a cyclist? Have they got any other
bike there with them? Things like that. Also you might be able to
check ’em out on social media. Just get an idea of it,
if it doesn’t feel right then it probably is gonna be wrong. Things to think about as
well when it comes to E-bike as well, just make sure the bike’s got a key for the battery. That the bike comes with
one if not two keys. It definitely should come with a charger. If the key’s and the charger are missing then that bike’s probably
gonna be way to hot to handle. So there you go, I really
hope you enjoyed today’s video on buying secondhand bikes. There definitely is
some bargains to be had out there if you’re careful but you can definitely get stung so if it is too good to be true then it
probably is and I suggest you walk away ASAP. But if you enjoyed today’s
video be sure to check out what size E-bike to buy over here. Whether you should choose
full suspension or a hardtail, check that one out over here. Don’t forget to click the globe
in the middle of the screen to subscribe to ENBN. Drop some comments in the box below. And we’ll see you in the next video.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Hi guys Love the show .Got myself A second hand three mouth old only 1.4km done Focus jam2 pro plus with di2 for just £3000 .Nine months on absolutely made up no issues far as I’m concerned got me a brand-new bike for half the price.go get yourself a bargain 👍😁

  2. I like when he went on ebay all the bikes listed in his scroll down was converted bikes with big motors like 1000w and 1500w 😂. EBay is ripe with thrown together kits and you have to watch what your buying as they sometimes try to pair the kit up with too small a battery and you find that after 5 or 10 miles your now pushing a heavy bike back as no way your going to pedal it back. As for the branded bikes I'd go private seller anyway as some shops won't give more than 3 months warranty on a second hand bike.

  3. Frame number also, if it’s been ground off then that’s a massive tell tale, you can also check with the police if that frame number has been reported stolen.
    The dealer who I’ve just bought my Ebike off emailed me the frame number before the bike was delivered which I though was really good!

  4. I found my used emtb online from a private person. It figured out, that he is a professional mountain bike rider and I got a great bike-fitting on top of a great serviced bike! Lucky me!

  5. If it's a five grand bike being sold from a council estate, don't go for a long test ride because-
    A. You'll be chased by the police, who would very much like to return the bike to its original owner.
    B. Your car will be gone, plus the wife/dog or mates that might be in it.
    C. You'll be chased by a feral pack of chavs and chavlettes.
    D. All of the above.

  6. On these Yamaha batteries there is a way to check the health and number of cycles ! All by pressing the button on the batt itself a certain number of seconds. See here :

  7. 0:47 LOL – unfortunately wrong. There are some small Bike-Shops that have really some employees with very good knowledge. But most of the bigger shops do not offer knowledge/information worth talking about

  8. My mate had his stolen. He found it for sale on ebay minus the battery and control unit as he had taken them off. The police couldnt give a shit and he basically had to just live with the loss. Moral of story if the bike isnt complete its probably stolen abd dont bother with the police borrow a bat and get it back.

  9. Price ! How do we know how much should be paying second hand. Cars, you can get a rough idea how much it should be on the forecourt. ? Great vid mind.

  10. Point on warranty. buying from a dealer, even a private seller, under the Consumer Rights Act there is at least 30 day warranty on all goods. It states "You have a 30 day right to reject  goods that are unsatisfactory quality, unfit for purpose or not as described, and get a full refund".

  11. nothing to look for as buying a used electric bike is nothing but trouble – guaranteed. you wont know if its been in water, rain, too hot or too cold of temps, had too many charges or how many charges, where to get parts, or how to get service. most local shops will never touch any ebike they didn't sell. your risks are HIGH buying used, and there is nothing you will have the skills or tools to assess what you are buying. also, the vast majority of ebikes that are priced over $2500, depreciate heavily bc they were way over priced to begin with, and you will never know how discounted the ebike was, and how long it sat on the dealers floor, despite when the person says he bought it. New does not mean 'new', in ebikes. The batteries could have sat for 2 years un touched, and not properly charged, or allowed to discharge fully. Crazy lennys in madison is notorious for selling very old ebikes, as he constantly tries to find and buy the most heavily discounted models and tries to make deals on stock that isn't moving well, which is frequently the models in the $2500 to $5000 price range, and there are too many of those models, so competition is fierce. Also the replacement batteries on high priced ebikes are REALLY priced at super gouge levels, so likely you could end up spending $800 to $1200 when the used battery fails a few months after you buy the used ebike that you thought was a 'great deal.' ebikes depreciate rapidly due to the most expensive part, the battery, being subject to many conditions that can affect its longevity. You dont know if the battery was left in a garage on the ebike where temps got below 20F, and you dont know if it was ever charged properly, and timely, and whether it sat discharged for too long. even with low miles the battery represents a huge and costly risk. And also, technology is changing so fast on these ebikes, that better models come out every year, with more features and lower price points. Its worse than the early days of PC's , when better performers came out a year later, every year with better software for the first 20 years. Ebikes are now in this same early stage of newness, and battery and technology advancements. better off and safer, buying new if you want a 'deal.' If you decide to buy used, pay no more than 40% of the price it supposedly sold for new, and only buy one that has less than 200 or 300 miles at the most, and nothing older than 2 years.

  12. Hey guys, I own the levo ht, and I noticed a sudden loss in power while riding yesterday, it doesn't seem like the same bike i rode over the weekend.

    On further inspection this morning, I noticed a little play in the motor side crank arm.

    Would this be a easy fix, maybe this is why my motor is lacking power, more noticable in turbo mode? and at higher speeds.
    Thanks in advance for reading.

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