Changing Brake Rotors (My Final Repair Job?)

Changing Brake Rotors (My Final Repair Job?)


rev up your engines now if you’re driving
55 60 hit the brakes hard and your steering wheel starts shaking now
normally means your front brake rotors are warped so when you hit them they’re
going in and out a little bit at a time that makes the steering wheel shape and
conversely if you hit your brakes going 60 and the brake pedal starts pulsating
that generally means the back rotors are worn now in this case it’s the front
wheel you hit this brakes it about 60 the front steering wheel shakes so we’re
gonna check the front ones first now before we pull the wheel off we’re gonna
check the suspension cuz if your tie rods or ball joints are worn and it
really wobbles you hit the brakes they can make a steering shake too so well
grab it at nine and three no play there and at 12 and six no play there so
there’s nothing really worn here we’ll do the rotors first now if you
want you can actually measure this with a caliper but I can feel that
it’s all warped it’s not even anymore so we’re gonna take off the rotors put on
new rotors and pads now we’re gonna turn the wheel all to the right so we can
access the bolts matter you can take off the bottom bolt here that comes off and
whole thing what’s up you can slide it away then that’s two bolts inside we’re
gonna top one on the bottom we take those off to get the whole caliper
assembly off as you can see they just come right off
the bottom one then the top one the top one doesn’t have room for my air impact
so I got a giant bar socket and I’m taking that one off huh by hand because
there’s not enough working room for my right but there’s plenty of room for
this it just takes more time then you remove that bolt the whole assembly will come off this is just supposed to slip off but it’s so old and rusty
it is 21 years old we’re gonna hit this with a sledgehammer
we’re throwing it away anyway get a big hammer give it a few whacks off it comes
then you put new rotors on it here’s a trick now the factory rotors they always
work fine but they’re a lot more expensive you don’t want to buy the
absolute cheapest rotors you can get your hands on cuz a lot of times
warp see you might want to look at good mid-priced ones like this you can see
got all of that holes and everything in it solid steel you don’t want to get a
cheap one that maybe doesn’t have the vents but you don’t have to buy the
factory once these cost about three-quarters of what the factory wants
do and they work perfectly fine and while you’re at it get some brake clean
they coat these things with an anti rusty coating you want to get it off so
you want to spray both sides to get on and off get it wipe any residue off then
slide the new roller on gets right on then get your brake caliper bracket
put it over the holes and get the bolts that hold it in place you got to wiggle them around a little then do the bottom one make sure
they’re started then you can get a nice and tight with an extension bar and a
socket you don’t want them coming loose you want a nice and cut yeah
now before you put the caliper on you want to squeeze it back in ah squeeze
like mad and then it goes in then you get your brake pads get some braking
caliper grease and put a little on the top where it binds and the bottom and
slide them in here you got a kind of twisting then they snap in place there’s
one then we snap this one and on the inside now that you snapped right on
then that slides right over and you bolt it back on turn the wheel and put the
tire back on and this particular car is a fancy wheel so also don’t forget the
spacer, the spacer goes inside here tap it in then put the wheel on and of course
do the other side so we’ll pull it here no play in here no play so the tie rods and ball joints are okay now we’ll just pull off the side do the
brakes on this side get the same exact process does the other side yeah that’s
a big whacker this one’s on harder there the stupid thing is off
then put the new rotor on and the caliper brackets get it nice and tight
then put the brake pads on remember to lube the lips and then slider on angle
that push it in place I remember to squeeze the caliper back
in now it’s back in this hole now this pin is sticking a little down here so
we’ll hit it sometimes they will stick and bolt the bottom on line up the wheel
studs nice and tight but before you start driving
pump the brakes now they’ll go all the way to the floor till you pump them a
few times now they’re nice and hard when you squeeze the calipers that loses
pressure then you got to pump it up now their nice and stiff, so the next time
your car steering wheel starts shaking when you’re braking at higher speeds now
you know how to replace the rotors and check the front end for any problems, so
if you never want to miss another one of my new car repair videos, remember to
ring that Bell

About the Author: Michael Flood

100 Comments

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  2. Who here would like too smoke a big fatty with Scotty…… He should start a new channel called “ Getting Scotty With High”

  3. Scotty I would recremmed . Spraying down the whole Brake calipers and Rotor – before Workin on them . Due to Brake Dust , Brake Cleaner -( Safety First )

  4. You dont measure warpage with vernier callipers, you certainly cant tell with your hand that its warped, and those rotors most definitely are not anywhere near 20 years old. You failed to clean the surface that the back of the rotor sit flush against, also you didnt properly remove, free up and grease the slider pins on the brake calliper carier, also no grease applied to rear of the pad where the piston of the calliper is going to contact the pad 🤣🤣 very poor job overall if im honest. And yes im a qualified mechanic myself.

  5. I actually came across Scotty threw my boss I work nights at a tech and I hear something from his office and I ask him who is his watching and he says "the wisest man who knows a lot about cars" and of course I didn't want to believe that (no offense to you Scotty) but as he kept watching I went home and I decided to watch a few videos and now here I am happily subscribed listening to Scotty and the funny noises or things he says learning about cars or looking at his cat pillow in the videos of the questions he answers and all I can say is thank you Scotty it's been a hell of a ride

  6. Those old rotors were very beefy. You could have taken them to the parts store and had them turned for like $20. The new rotors likely cost between $50 and $60 each. I used to work at a Brake Shop. We would cut brand new out of the box rotors and discover they were slightly warped. So better is not always best. It the rotor is in spec and true you won't get customers complaining that they feel a light pulsation in the pedal.

  7. every time I change pads I clean and lube the slider bolts. Told by a mechanic its not always needed but it only take a few minutes and if it goes dry you could be buying another rotor.

  8. This is how not to change your discs! No joke.
    Super important steps are missed here without then in max 2k miles and you will be ready for another change

  9. When I do brakes and rotors on my car. I use anti seize on either the lug nuts or the wheel bolts. Makes it easy to remove in the future.

  10. Scotty i need some help!!! Ive had ceramic brake pads for a while now and they ALWAYS squeal like crazy!! Im sick of it, added some copper anti-seize and they still squeal. Even when hot they squeal. What i have noticed is that they squeal when coming to a stop. Please help 🙁 took to a mechanic shop and they werent warped

  11. “…Sometimes the pins stick so just hammer them in” I hate to nag but you should know as a 51 year mechanic not to do that. You risk damaging the rubber gasket on the pin. Every time you do a brake job the caliper slide pins are supposed to be lubed as well the prevent the bracket from sticking and causing one pad to wear more than the other. I ALWAYS take the pins out, clean the old stuff off, clean out the pin hole and re-lubricate it.

  12. UGHHH !` Hey Scotty, Are those Callahan…I Have to buy a pair for My truck and they were Under $60 for Two front ones on ebay, WOW under $30 each!!! Do YOU recommend better ones? The AC Delco ones look lower in Quality than some of them. I want to paint Mine too, what's a Good high temp paint to use? Yes I will tape the face where the Pads make contact, LOL !

  13. Scotty you wouldn't be doing it that fast if you lived in Cleveland. Sometimes you'd be heating the rotors with a torch to get them off. File the rust off the calipers and change the tins and lube the slide pins. Thats on every brake job. Then have to hear 《How Much? 》

  14. Well its official FCA and Peugeot are merging. Can't wait to hear Scotty's laugh and laughing animals on this joke of a deal 🤣

  15. Replaced the rotors on my f150 for the first time in almost 5 years. I had to hit the rotors way harder and way longer than that to get them off! Bastards were almost welded on there with the rust.

  16. That pin is sticking because it's not lubricated. What will happen is one your brake pads wont move right and either wear down fast or get caught against the rotor. How could you miss that scotty?

  17. It's a good idea to clean and lube up the pins on which the brake caliper slides (only use special lubricant, the one that your car requires: usually it's silicone brake lubricant). This will ensure good and even wear between the interior and exterior pad.

  18. A Jack stand / Car Stand is always a MUST use safety device.
    Scotty no doubt concealed his stands during this job to make the video look less cluttered.

  19. Before you hammer a rotor off check for threaded holes on the hat center. If there are some, just insert a bolt that fits, usually an m8 about 30-50mm long and it'll "press" the rotor off as you tighten it.

  20. You should be stripping the caliper slider pins, grease them and sort any that are sticking properly not by whacking them with a hammer! Sorry but poor job

  21. Changing break pads is one of the first things I had to figure out how to do on a car. They were on an 89 El Dorado. The only guidance I had was to be sure to compress the hydraulic part. Also to PUMP THE BREAK before driving it. My brother forgot to do that and rolled into the ditch in front of the driveway. Fortunately the only thing hurt was his pride

  22. ive been told to clean the lips where the brake pad (caliper bracket) sit on wire brush works best as dust / rust can build up i hope scotty will approve this

  23. While your at it, replace the brake caliper slide/guide pins or posts. They are less than $10 at the auto parts store. Apply new caliper grease.

  24. Why didn't you use high temperature grease on the disk mounting flange?
    Is it because there is not much salt on the roads during winter where you live ? 🙂
    We need it where I live.

    Regards from Denmark

  25. I'm actually about to change the rotors on my 97 F150, so great timing, love the content and all the helpful information

  26. then you crack the piston using huge pilers like that… a clamp and the old brake pad is the proper way if you do not have the piston tool..

  27. It should be your final job. All I want to see from now on are vacation videos from around the world. 51 years is a career. Drink a Mai Tai on a Hawaiian beach. Have Paella and Spanish wine in Valencia. Ride horses and get high in Denver.

  28. You will Probably find out that the steering wheel was shaking because the bottom pin was seized and needed free off then disks look fine to me

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