Direct Mount vs Standard Mount Rear Derailleur | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

Direct Mount vs Standard Mount Rear Derailleur | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

(intense music) – Welcome back to the GCN Tech Clinic, I’m sure you all know the drill by now, what it’s all about, but if you don’t, here’s
a little reminder. So if you’ve got yourself
a bike-related problem, so something’s not working, something’s annoying you, you want to know how
something works possibly, leave that question for me down there in the comment section below and I’ll try and answer
it in an upcoming episode, and sometimes you even
get your question answered by a fellow member of the tech community, which I think is pretty cool really, that we’ve got people who’re willing to help another one out. Right, let’s crack on. The first one in this week
comes from thebelly925. Now the belly says, can I highlight the differences between a direct mount
rear derailleur system and the standard mounting system that commercial systems have installed? Right okay, so I reckon you mean by that with a direct mount
rear derailleur hanger. So, with those Shadow-style rear mechs that you get on 105, Dura-Ace and Ultegra, you’ve got a linkage piece I guess, that you can remove and you can just clamp the rear derailleur straight
onto the mech hanger instead of screwing it into the thread, if that makes sense, hopefully it does. Firstly, a reduction of weight slightly. It settles, so to give a
slightly improved gear shift because you’ve removed,
obviously a link off there and it’s a bit closer into the cassette. Now some riders, they reckon
it gives you, you know, this crispier gear shift
and have really wanted that direct mount hanger. So I remember Dylan Groenewegen, his bike at the Tour of Dubai,
the Dubai Tour last year, back in 2018, he actually
had a custom one on his bike, I remember spotting that. Now a real benefit of this system as well, is that it means the rear
mech is slightly further back meaning that wheel changes are faster. So in the pro peloton that
can make a huge difference ’cause of course time is not
necessarily on their side when they have to change a
wheel at the side of the road. That’s probably about it really. I mean if you look compared
to an older style rear mech with those Shadow ones, the rear mech is in slightly further. It’s about 13 millimeters further in, so I guess you could say
it’s more aerodynamic and it’s more out of
harms way if you like. Next up is Simon_says. Simon says answer the question, so that’s what I’m going to do. Right, hello Jon, most likely
John, I absolutely love all GCN Tech videos and I
got soaked into bike tech so much that I’m building
my own bike from scratch. That’s good news, I love that, how people get so involved in it. That’s what I did, made a
mistake one day, school holidays, about 1994, ruined a wheel,
dad came home from work, told me off, I learned how
to build wheels the next day. I have a question regarding
bottom brackets, Simon does. They got themselves a Shimano BBR60, installed it according to
all the tips they found on the Tech channel
including a torque wrench. Also installed the crankset… Wanted to do a free spin test,
so no chain fitted to it. It’s all just spanners, cranks… It made maybe two revolutions and stops. When I rotate it with my
finger, the whole work of it, so the bearings and
everything is nice and smooth, feels no resistance yet it does not spin as long as I was expecting it too. With, you know, with a
crankset without a chain on it it should basically. Is this normal and I was
simply misled by information I found or maybe something is not right. Later on I found some information that brand new bottom
brackets may be like this and get better after the
first few kilometers, but now I don’t know which
information is correct. Please help. Simon, don’t worry, okay. Now maybe all bottom brackets
out there will spin like this. The old cup-and-cone ones were quite good because you could manipulate what was happening inside of it. So you could remove grease or you could add just a very small amount and you kept a spin for quite a while, but sealed units like the
BBR60 you got on there are sealed so all the
bearings and the grease are all in there behind these fancy seals and you can’t access it that much. If you were to wash out all of the grease, yeah it would spin for a bit longer but also it wouldn’t last very long because the bearings would start to pit against the cups of the inside. You don’t need to worry about it, okay. I don’t reckon you go for the hour record and that’s not in a disrespectful
way at all or anything, but this sort of friction
you are very, very unlike to feel it through your
feet or through the pedals while you’re pedaling away. And it will, most likely
become less viscous I guess you could call it, the grease. It will start to wear
a little bit thinner. Ultimately it will become
harder again when you stop, but the heat generated by the cranks turning around in that bottom bracket, the grease turns into a more liquid form, therefore it’s easier to go around so the spin test like
that isn’t that great. If you were to do that
in a really hot climate or in an oven or something, it would probably spin
a bit further around. Now, you probably got the idea it will keep spinning for ages because of ceramic
bottom bracket bearings, or ceramic bearings that tend
to spin a little bit freer, they don’t use grease inside of them, no lubricant or anything, they just work on the sort
of hard surfaces in there, they’re very tough. I think ceramic bearings,
the ball bearings, are 10 times tougher I think
than the steel bearing, something like that. I’m not going to go into
the can of worms though that ceramic bearings are because that’ll create a whole
different debate down below. I know half of you are
probably already typing this, but don’t worry about it. If you want really free spinning
cranks right from the off, then yeah, you can go
ahead and buy something that will do that, but
it is going to hit you pretty hard in your
wallet I’ve got to say. Next up is Gabriel Evangelista who says, Jon I need help ASAP, right
hopefully I’m in time. I have a Shimano 105 wheelset but it has a problem on the freehub. It just spins and spins
and spins when I pedal it, what could be the possible issue? I brought it to my local bike
shop but they can’t fix it. They can’t open the freehub because they say it has a
special tool to open it up. They say maybe it is the
pawls, can I still fix that? Thanks for the answers. Gabriel, Gabriel, the spinning freehub, absolute nightmare when this happens because some freehubs are
not usually serviceable, and the Shimano ones they’re
not intended basically to be taken apart and not
very many shops out there do in fact have those tools
to be able to split them, open them and have a look
at the inner workings. Instead, Shimano, they just advised to get a replacement freehub on there. But, okay what you could
do before going out and spending, I dunno, whatever
they are, 15, 20 pounds, depends on what freehub have you’ve got. Oh, you got 105s, so probably a little bit more than that. You’re going to want to take the axle out, ’cause you’re going to
have to do that anyway if you are going to get a new freehub, but you could be able to
rejuvenate this one temporarily and who knows, it maybe
lasts you a long time. So, get the axle out. You need then a hex wrench,
I think it’s an 11 or a 12, might even be a 10, it’s
a while since I’ve done it and it does vary from model to model. Get it inside of the freehub, release that from the actual hub shell
’cause it tightens into it. It’s got a big beefy old bolt in there. Take that freehub off. Now on the back of it, most likely you’re going to
have a little rubber seal on the back, prise it off
gently, really really gently. Do it over a cloth or a
towel or something like that, or some paper. Now underneath that seal, that
rubber seal, prise it off, there’s some ball bearings in there. Now they may be loose, they
may be in the retainer, or again, it all does depend. Spray that with some lubricant,
you know, WD-40, whatever. Just try and spray it and
also at the same time, once you’ve sprayed it in there, try and spin the freehub on itself. So, put your fingers inside
of it, hold it like that and then turn it around and
try and work that lubricant in. Who knows, it maybe, it could just free up some of the grit and
grime that was in there and has caused that sticking. Failing that, you probably
need a new freehub, but before you go out and do
this, what you could do is put it in a small little
bath of oil, like engine oil, I’ve done this before with a freehub. I’ve left it in there
for a couple of days. I know your question you
said you need help ASAP but I like to try and bring
old things back to life. So, put it in there for a couple of days, but say, I dunno, after the
first few hours, take it out. Of course wearing some protective gloves, and just try and spin it. See if it makes any difference. See if it does lock and
engage like a freehub should. If not, put it back in
there, after a couple of days if it’s not going to, it’s
going to flush everything out and you know, bring it back to life then yeah, you are going
to need to buy a new one. But I’d try and do that first really ’cause it’s good to try and, well yeah, try and make use of something
for just a little bit longer. Right, now we got Phil Watson who says, hi Jon, I have a 10-speed 105 groupset, can I add a GRX400 rear
mech for my cross bike? Also using a mech extender
could I push the GRX400 limit to 40 teeth? Right, yeah, the GRX400 is
one of the gravel series, you know, of Shimano’s groupsets. GRX400 is the 10-speed
version of the rear derailleur so that’s going to work absolutely fine with your 10-speed 105 groupset. The shifting ratio of
how much cable it pulls can be perfect. In fact, this is what I did on that garbage to gravel bike I did. I got a pair of old 105 10-speed shifters, matched them up with
that GRX400 rear mech, worked absolutely spot on. Now you said there as
well about putting in a derailleur hanger extender and seeing if a 40-tooth cassette will work fine. So, I use on a previous 1X Hack video, you may well remember
that one where I convert an old frame I had lying
around as well into 1X. Put a mech hanger on there, put
a short cage rear derailleur on there and I think I got it to work with a 38-tooth cassette on there. Fine that was a short cage one
like a real road race machine whereas that GRX is going to
have a slightly longer cage on there and it should be absolutely fine. You may need to play around a little bit with the B-tension screw adjustment there. It goes on the back of the
rear derailleur hanger, but I see no problems at
all with that, good luck. And the final one this week, a pretty complicated one I reckon. Toby Price, hi Jon, nice chatting to you outside the Cadex pop-up shop in Harrogate during the Worlds. Now I’m hoping you can help. I remember that Toby, it was
chucking it down with rain and it was about five
past seven in the morning and you were wondering what
on earth I was doing out. Anyway right, Toby, your question, I have a Giant Boulder
Alu-light MTB from 1999 and I was wondering if it’s
convertible to a gravel bike? Right, this one’s going to
be a bit complex, I reckon. It is got Tektro direct mount
side pull brakes, so V-brakes, and Shimano mountain bike gear levers connected to an Altus 7-speed rear mech and Shimano Tourney
triple front derailleur, so dual pull as well,
so presumably that means it can be pulled from
the bottom or the top depending on the cable really. Very versatile bit of kit that. How easy is it going to be to
find road bike brake gear levers that’ll work with this
setup or am I dreaming? I think you might be. If it’s not feasible, any suggestions for the cheapest way to convert it? Thanks Toby. P.S. how about a GCN Tech
show about all those tools behind you and what they’re all for. Well, that’s going to be
more than one show I reckon. We got masses over there you
can’t even see, trust me. Right. Okay, I love your thinking about this. You got yourself your old
mountain bike thinking, “this bad boy used to go
out and enjoy itself”, but you got 7-speed derailleurs okay. You’re not going to be able
to get a 7-speed road STI, or Ergo or SRAM, you know, a
shifter or anything like that is going to work, will it? Because they don’t exist,
they came out in 8-speed. So, what you’re going to have to do is go back to the drawing board. You’re going to have
to get your wallet out I’m afraid with this one. What I would advise with this, get yourself one of those
GRX400 rear derailleurs I already mentioned and
a pair of Shimano 105, or anything 10-speed, any
10-speed Shimano gear shifters, you know, STI levers. Pair that up… Get rid of the triple chain set as well ’cause you’re not tryna get a triple STI lever not necessarily
that easy either. Or you could just go 1X even, it won’t cost you as much. But you also then going
to get to have to buy a new rear wheel as well
because a 7-speed cassette, or Over-Locknut Distance, is
narrower than a 10-speed one, which is what I’m trying
to get you to go towards because you’re going to have
way more gearing options. 7-speed, you’re not really going to enjoy that off-road that much. Just thinking about what
else you’ve asked in here. I mean the brakes, they will
work okay with STI levers or any drop bar brake
levers providing you get, I think it’s called a travel adapter. So it goes onto the, just where the cable goes into the noodle, if you like, I think it’s what they call
it, the V-brake noodle. It goes in there and it
adjusts the amount of pull you get for each stroke of the lever and it adjusts it
accordingly because V-brakes, there’s a linear pull
and they work differently to a standard caliper brake. Essentially, you are
going to have to spend a little bit of money on this. Have a look at my garbage to gravel video and that’ll probably give you
some pretty good inspiration on exactly what to do there, but trying to get a 7-speed
drop handlebar shifters, it’s not going to work I’m afraid. You could get I suppose a old
cyclocross or bar end shifter, put that in friction mode,
that would work absolutely fine but that’s it really. Let me know next time I
see you how you get on or you know what just send me a message and I can discuss with you in more detail exactly what I would really go for. Right, I hope I’ve been able
to help answer and solve your problem this week. If not, leave it for me down
there in the comments section and I’ll do my upmost
best to try and solve it in a very future episode. Right, remember as well
like and share this video with your friends. Don’t forget also, check out the GCN shop at For two more cracking
videos click just down here and just down here and I’ll see you soon.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Maybe add a problem solvers travel agent to make a road pull sti work with v-brakes – I have this on my folding tour bike – actually you just mentioned them.

  2. There are mini V-brakes that will work with STI levers. Don't know how much tyre clearance you will have will them though. Also there are 3×7 (Tourney, I'd call them semi-STI. ST-A073) and 3×8 (Claris, STI. ST-2403) shifters. If I was to buy new STI shifters for ~90€ I'd invest another 15€ each for new front and rear derailleurs.

  3. Ceramic Bearings are worse than steel because of the fact they are harder than steel. Ceramic Bearings are encased in a steel inner/outer ring. What happens when two materials grind against each other and one is harder than the other??? The harder material cuts into the softer material.

    By default, ceramic bearings will cut a groove into their steel casing and make your bearings worse than if you stuck with steel bearings. Ceramic Bearings are the biggest scam.

  4. You mention, that the GRX 400 is compatible with old 10 105s. To my knowleague GRX 400 is only compatible to Tiagra 10-Speed (4700) because of the different pull ratios.

  5. #AskGCNTech Hello John, thanks for the great show! I've recently purchased a Canyon Endurace AL8.0 Disc with Shimano Ultegra 8000 groupset and so far loving it. However, there's something a bit irritating about it; most of the times when I pedal out of the saddle I hear a disc rub noise that I think is coming from the front wheel. Is this because of the flex in the fork? Is there anything I can do to stop it? Could it be because of my weight as I'm kinda heavy for a road rider? Thanks for the help in advance.

  6. Don't bother with Shimano HTII bb's, bad seals and not easy to replace bearings. Get a Hope, Token etc. bb and a Hope HTT178 Bearing Tool. Shimano freehubs can be disassembled/serviced RJ The Bike Guy has a vid on how to.

  7. Can someone help my shifting because is hard to shift to the big gear on the front derrailur i have the shimano 105 r7000

  8. Really appreciate your advice on the question I put to you. You confirmed my fears that the conversion is going to involve a considerable outlay to get it all to work properly. 1x a good idea. Many thanks.

  9. Th question about converting to a gravel bike. Could use MicroShift levers or derailleurs. they are compatible with Shimano. They are available in 8,9 and 10 speed.

  10. Hey Jon, or whoever's reading this. I recently bought a Shimano GRX rx400 rear derailleur, but it doesn't seems to work well with my current setup, I'm using a Deore 10s cogs (11-36) and the hg54 chain with an Ultregra 6700 STI, are the levers the problem? I've done some research and they told me that the older generation of 10speed STI levers don't work with the grx400, and learned that the only compatible levers are the Tiagra 4700 series. Any thoughts on this? Cheers!

  11. Emergency! Emergency! I have a 2018 specialized Roubaix and the front fork has a crack in the carbon. Brought it to our local specialized shop and they said I need to replace the fork. However they are having a hard time finding a replacement fork. Been asking around and it’s really hard to find. Can I use third party forks? Is it advisable to have somebody repair the carbon on the fork? What other options can you suggest? Love your show. Your advice is gospel!

  12. #AskGCNTech. Hi John great content as always. Looking to upgrade my groupset from tiagra 10 speed to ultegra 11 speed, would I have to change my AXIS Classic rear wheel to accommodate the 11 speed cassette?

  13. Jon… I often change from my gravel rims ( 23 mm width ) to road rims ( 19 mm width) on my drop bar single speed gravel bike. I did this to save time converting from road to gravel riding. Adjusting the v brakes is the most difficult and error-prone part. Can you make a video on how to quickly adjust rim brakes? It feels like I need 3 hands to do it

  14. Topical! I just converted to an Eagle AXS XX1 using the upgrade kit as I already an NX drive train. I was confused a bit fitting the XX1 mech as the instructions weren't exactly clear, this is regards to rotation I fit it at, do I just let it drop to its natural resting state and tighten it from there, out it pointing to 9 o'clock etc. It feels fine now, but I have this feeling it isn't fitted properly.

  15. #AskGCNTech Hey Jon, I'm hoping you are the man to help with a small issue I have regarding paint. I have a BMC Roadmachine with a satin or matt paint finish. A while ago I noticed a small scratch on the top tube so my first and only thought was to grab some T-cut paint restore . I applied this and polished it up and the scratch come out beautifully. It was only after this I realised I have used a t-cut designed for gloss paint on a satin frame and the top tube is now shiny and the rest of the frame is its original finish. I could easily polish the rest of the frame and it would look lovely with a gloss finish but I would sooner ask if you know of any method or product I could use to restore the top tube back to its satin finish? Keep the great content coming and thanks.

  16. #AskGCNTech. Hi jon love the show. Quick question. I have a Shimano di2 (latest gen). 52-36 and a 11-34 cassette. Recently while out on a ride I constantly hear a buzzing noise when I’m going all out on the pedals. Is there anyway I could rectify it?

  17. Hellow John!!! I´d like to pose you a question. My bke has hidraulic disk brakes (Ultegra 6800) and since a few weeks ago each time I use m front brake, after I release the lever it keep rubbing for 10 to 20 seconds (it seems it has difficulty opening the pads). Could you explain what might be the problema and the solution? Thank you John!

  18. I have microSHIFT (SB-R473) 3×7 sti shifters on one of my older mountain bikes converted to gravel, you can find them on Amazon for under $100 and they work pretty well.

  19. @GCN Tech
    Thanks for answer. I am not obsessed with the free spin test. Bike rides fine so far. I just wanted to know if this is something which is normal or maybe I have a defective component or I simply screwed up something during the build. Ceramic bearings… no thanks I am not professional cyclist looking for marginal gains and I don't feel like spending this kind of money just to make some additional oooohs and aaaahs during free spin test 😉

    Thanks again. Great show as always!

  20. I always ride(road bike) at place with long descending, but that lead to brake problem(the pad doesn't grip the rim effectively)on normal condition.Is the pad have performance on different types of it?

  21. #AskGCNTech Hi GCN, I just wanted to know if I should convert an old rigid mountain bike to a cross country bike. And if I should use the old wheels as they are in tip top condition. Thanks!

  22. My front deraileur is starting to annoy me no matter how much i try to index it it just keeps on rubbing the chain i already tried to adjust the limit screws and have tried the barell adjusters even the mechanics here cant fix it i am using a shimano 2300 front deraileur on my giant defy 3 thank you in advance for the answer

  23. Hi GCN Tech, I'm looking to put drop bars on a hybrid that has a Deore 11-42 10 speed groupset. I'm struggling to find anything with 10 speed for hydraulic brakes. I've been warned that Tiagra 4700 doesn't have the same pull ratio. Can you help?

  24. #AskGCNTech
    Hi, I've got a track bike with a Stronglight 2000 crankset with it's recommended BB (107mm JIS) and have measured the Q factor to be uneven by about 5mm (wider on the driveside).
    Not entering the whole Q factor debate, but I'd like an even Q factor as a starting point! Is there something wrong with installation or is the only choice washers? Help much appreciated 🙂

  25. Ceramic bearings are not stronger than steel bearings because the amount shock in pressure could destroy the ceramic bearings faster than steel. Not worth spending the extra money.

  26. For the Gravel Bike Conversion from the mountain bike, he may want to look at the Shimano Sora group set for a cheap Gravel Conversion. They do have the 3×9 STI Levers, derailleurs, crankset and cassette sprocket.

  27. regarding the use of STI 7 speed shifters. They do exist, I have converted an old GT hybrid to drop bars using Shimano tourney ST 4603 shifters. This is the triple front derailleur set. They work great. The problem will be with the brakes as these will either require a Problem Solvers Travel Agent or conversion to mini-V brakes.

  28. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, I have a carbon steerer with a carbon stem and have found that when torqued to the specified level that my stem can still slip and I end up with bars pointed to the side. I was doing a trackstand at some traffic lights and actually nearly came off when the light went green and the bars turned sideways. I had a multitool in my bag and tightened the bolts by hand so was able to finish the ride but obviously I'm uncomfortable going over the max torque on this steerer tube. What do you think about fibre grip on the steerer/stem connection? The internet seems a bit conflicted on this one? I was also thinking maybe it's the bolts coming loose and some treadlocker is the answer? Thanks

  29. #AskGCNtech good day John, love the show and learned so much, my question this week is simple, will mechanical disc brake shifter work with mechanical rim brake calipers?

  30. Brand new bottom brackets, have brand new internal seals/o-rings.
    Brand new (never used) sealed bearings, are designed to have a tighter fitting o-ring between the inner and outer bearing races.

    This means, after the B/B has aged and/or been used for a short time (seals have broken in/become worn a bit), the bearings will spin more freely. This is done, so the seals will not allow material to pass by the o-rings/seals. The manufacturers could design Brand New bearings to spin more freely, but the bearing will fail sooner. —– Also, some bearings need, to be under load, to spin freely. Why? So, they do not bind under load. —— Lastly, the lighter the crank, the less it will spin, (as noted by the OP) compared to a heavier crank ( momentum )

  31. shimano tourney 3×7 road shifters exist, as do Microshift.×7-speed-black-474051.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-KQjkkMB74aMfQjZlBwcmvaHC4H6ct6zig-lnfDc2PU3XGKf8Yf_34aAiOSEALw_wcB&_cid=21_1_-1_%7Bifpla:9%7D%7Bifpe:8%7D_34_474051_%7Bcreative%7D_%7Bifpla:pla%7D&ef_id=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-KQjkkMB74aMfQjZlBwcmvaHC4H6ct6zig-lnfDc2PU3XGKf8Yf_34aAiOSEALw_wcB&ev_chn=shopI am running the Tourney ones on my frankenbike conversion of my 1992 MTB with XT derallieurs. Using a travel agent to run the levers with some modern v-brakes

  32. I want to turn my 2012 trek 8.2 into a gravel bike. I have everything figured out, but I don't know what to do about the front fork. Currently it is a 60mm super squishy suspension fork, but I want to ditch the awful suspension for something more road worthy. Will putting on a normal fork alter the geometry too much? If yes, what should I do, and if not what type of fork would you recommend? Thanks, moshe

  33. In response to the need for a road link to run a 40t rear cassette, I have an 11-40 rear on my gravel bike with an Ultegra RX derailleur. I purchased a road link but ended up not needing it, as the RX derailleur handles it without any issues after turning the B screw in a bit.

  34. #AskGCNTech Hi, John! Love GCNTech show! Please tell, what are the advantages of a fork with integrated crown race vs fork with conventional crown race? And are there any limitations with headset lower bearing compatibility? Thanks a lot!

  35. An old trick for lubing and bringing back to life old ratchets is to soak them in ATF (transmission fluid). It might work for that freehub?

  36. Cycling a BMC SL01 Road Racer with Shimano XT pedals, on each pedal turn there is a click that can be felt. The is fairly recent and follows a happy set of training ks, circa 250km+ per week. Coming up to an event – 160k loop road ride – keen to resolve. What might it be ? #askgcntech there is no associated noise but the click can be felt through the bike shoes – usually left crank close to the top of the pedal stroke – off the bike all feels well with no free lateral movement on pedals or crank – any ideas appreciated – great show keep up the good work 🙂 (Perhaps one day someone might dccument the suggested solutions in a form that can be easily looked up from past shows, like an index?

  37. #AskGCNtech and everyone else who might help. I have purchased a specialized Tri spoke rear wheel for my homebuilt Scott Addict R4, problem is that the wheel sits loose in the frame and turns into the frame and get jammed up against the frame, have temporarily fixed it by tightening the qr insanely hard, don't think it's any good for a carbon frame. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Enjoy the the show as I do most of the maintenance myself

  38. #AskGCNTech Hi John & Co.! Would it be possible to replace a Dura-Ace DI2 front derailleur FD-R9150 with an XTR DI2 FD-M9070? This way I can have a smaller crankset such as FC-M9100-2. I would like to do some touring on my road bike but don't like how long rear derailleurs / big cassettes look on a road bike. Thanks in advance!

  39. The 7 speed derailleur got the same pull ratio (1,7) like all 7-9 Road or MTB shimanos. 10-speed 105 (ratio 1,2) is different than 10 tiagra/grx (ratio 1,4). So take a sora 8 or 9 speed sti and put a 8 or 9 speed cassette on the hub. See:

  40. GCN Tech Tools — One of the questions mentioned the tools behind Jon. — His response was something like: "It would be more than one show… There are masses you can't even see…". — How about 'featuring' one tool every GCN Tech show? I would love to learn about all the cool/weird tools on the wall. — Keep up the great work.

  41. There are still 3 by 7 Tourney road brifters! But you have to change the front deraileur to road version from the Tourney group

  42. #AskGCNTech Hello John! Love the section.
    How much do I need to adjust the brake calipers if I swap the wide rim carbon wheelset (26mm) to the traditional narrow aluminium one (20mm) for training?

  43. #AskGCNTech Hi jon. I have a question about rim wear. I have a set of campagnolo zondas that have been used only in the winter. The rear rim is showing signs of wear. I have measured the rim width of the braking surface and it comes out at 0.7mm. I have read that they are 1.4mm new. I also read its ok to use a rim down to 0.4mm. What do you think?

  44. GRX 400 only works with itself (GRX 400) and Tiagra 4700 10 speed, not with older 10 speed shift levers/derailleurs like 105, Ultegra, Dura ace and Tiagra 4600.
    Well, GRX 400 even works with 11 speed 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace because the new pull ratio is the same between newer 10 speed and 11 speed groupsets. So, if you want to spend less on a Shadow plus rear mech, you can use the GRX 400 RD with your full 11 speed groupset

  45. #askgcntech looking at a fantastic deal on a Rim brake bike with Di2. This bike needs to last me a good long time but with everybody switching to disc I’m wondering about availability of spares/wheels etc. in the next 5 years.

  46. Hi John. I have a question. During my pedal stroke, there is this squeaking noise that comes from either the pedal/crank/chainrings or somewhere and I cannot seem to place my finger on where exactly the sound I coming from.
    I have cleaned out the bottom bracket, cleaned the chainrings + greased the Shimano 4 bolts on chainrings, cleaned and greased pedals and done everything to mitigate this irritating sound but cannot seem to find it.
    I use Speedplay pedals and my only conclusion is that the pedal platform have worn down, and now the Speedplay cleats are ever so slightly rubbing in the spindle. Does this sound correct?
    Thank you so much. #gcntech #bikeproblems

  47. Question for you all. Probably a very silly one, but I'm asking anyways!
    I'm fortunate enough to have my old bike permanently on my turbo trainer. What regular maintenance do I need to do? Ie how often do I need to lube it considering there's no Scottish weather washing it off or adding much into the machanisms?

  48. #askgcntech. Hi John love the channel. It’s new bike time and I’m torn between a carbon road bike with Ultegra or a carbon gravel bike with grx810. The gravel bike is only a few grams heavier than the road bike. I want to ride hills mountains on road (both up and down) and occasionally gravel tracks not all in the same trip. Will a gravel bike do a decent job on the road both flat and hills or am I going to regret not getting a road the bike. Unfortunately only one winner in terms of bike.

  49. #AskGCNtech – can you or anyone answer this question as there's nothing conclusive on the internet. 1. I am looking to change the crankset from Sram Red to maybe Rotor 30mm but want to keep the Sram Red Chainrings – will they fit? With hidden bolt thingy? 2. If not then I would like to know suitable alternatives that folks are using that work with Etap. I have Italian threaded BB – preference to Ita30BB. Cheers.

  50. #AskGCNTech dan lipp wrote (w/o hashtag) Hi jon. I have a question about rim wear. I have a set of campagnolo zondas that have been used only in the winter. The rear rim is showing signs of wear. I have measured the rim width of the braking surface and it comes out at 0.7mm. I have read that they are 1.4mm new. I also read its ok to use a rim down to 0.4mm. What do you think?

  51. Hey John, there are actually 7 speed STI shifters! They're tourneys, and look like those old ones with the side button/Lever thingy, kinda like campy, but bad.

  52. Hey anyone, I have a new 105 r7000 front derailer with fsa slk cranks rubbing at the extremes please help.
    Tried setting it up multiple times and using the trim functions but the best i can get is small front ring all good throughout the range on the rear and then on the big ring rubbing starts on about the 7th biggest rear gear. (11spd 105 rear)
    When i adjust the high limit to make the big ring work without rubbing it seems to move the low limit when on the small ring and then rubbing starts on the small ring on the bigger cogs at the rear. Somehow the limit screws dont seem independent, or my low limit isn't set up right….i dont know… how have i set it up wrong? Pleeeese and thankyou

    P.s. its a braze on fd with a braze on adaptor and the support bolt is tightened to the frane

  53. John, I have a 2017 Cannondale supersix evo disc. The front is a through axle and the rear is a quick release. Currently I am happy with the wheelset, however, when I do want to upgrade, will is be difficult to find a wheel set that will be both through axle and quick release? Moreover, being a disc wheel set will I be able to find QR rear hub?Can I change the rear hub to allow a through axle? Thanks for your help!

  54. #askgcntech I bought a used Giant Defy Advanced 2018. I am really not fond of the disc brake actuator on the handlebars. Will the Shimano 105 STI Hydrologic levers work in replacing this unit. If not any suggestions to alleviate this issue.

  55. 7 Speed STI style shifters, Microshift 472 or 473 for double or triple respectively. used them on mine, work great with tourney 7 speed. however your v-brakes will require a longer pull so a travel adjuster could help but problem solvers no longer makes it (far as i could tell); one option is cantilevers (cross brakes a few years ago).

  56. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, sometimes when I adjust a wheel hub and it have no play after the bike is ridden it appears, why it happens?

  57. Hi Toby Price, hi John.
    Shimano RSX ST-410 is a 3×7 sti levers set. There is also 8 speed version marked ST-416. Check OLD, for 7 speed MTB it may be 130mm so easy conversion to 3×8 with FH-1056 ot similar hub.

  58. I got into a discussion with older gentleman,,,, the argument was nice and simple,,,,he was mentioning that at one time Campagnolo and Shimano were compatible with each other….to my knowledge they are not (latest technology). I’m consulting the real walking bicycle encyclopedia (John) to clarify this issue……please help…..

  59. #AskGCNTech

    Hi Jon. Iam planning to build a roadbike with a bige gearspread and i want to go for ultegra di2. on the front i have a compact chainring and in the back, i think ultegra is capable to have a 30 cassett or maybe a 32 cassett, is this right? And wich is the best derailleur to give the best shifting thats achievable in this situation, maybe the long cage? Or is there a way to do it with a hanger?
    Thanks and keep on doing the good work.

  60. Hey, the advice about the 7 speed STI shifters is incorrect. MicroShift makes a 7 speed shimano compatible STI lever, and they're excellent. I have a set for an old Cannondale and I had a 9 speed set for my Trek 5200 T before I upgraded the bike to 10 speed double.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *