DIY Paint Job Using Nothing But Rattle Cans

DIY Paint Job Using Nothing But Rattle Cans

– Hey, how’s it going, do it yourselfers? Got a good one for you today. Today I’m gonna show you how you can sand down, paint, and fix the hood on this F-150 truck, using nothing but rattle cans. So if you look closely, we have two areas that are badly damaged, on this hood. We have this area on the left corner, that has a lot of scrapes, scratches, and peeling clear coat on it. And then this area on the right corner with similar type of damage. In order to perform this repair, you’ll need a couple of different grits of sandpaper, a sanding block, some primer, some color
match Urethane base coat, inside a can. And last but not least,
some 2K Clear Coat. Now there might be a couple other things that you might need, like masking tape and what not. But if you’re interested in any of the products that I’m going to be using in this video, I’ll put links to where you can buy them for cheap, down below in the description box. So don’t be afraid to click on them and check them out yourself. So obviously, as one would imagine, doing this with rattle cans is not going to be as good as spraying your base coat and clear coat with a high volume,
low pressure spray gun. But that requires an air compressor and a garage which not everyone has. Hence, our attempts to
do this with rattle cans. Now I have not painted a panel before using just rattle cans. But I have a good feeling that this is gonna come out looking really nice. And as long as you follow the steps in this video exactly, you
should have the same results. So make sure you watch this video all the way to the end. All right, enough of that, let’s get on to the repair procedure. So what you’ll want to do next is to grab yourself a
clean bucket of water. Pour in some car wash soap. And then, using a sponge, thoroughly clean the panel that’s going to be repaired. Now some of you have mentioned that it’s actually better to use dish washing detergent to clean up the
panel before paintwork. Because these car wash soaps have some wax preservatives in them. And that could ruin a paint job, by causing fish eye. But dish washing detergents, unlike these, actually strip away grease and wax. As it says, right on
the back of this thing, right here, it says,
“Dish washing detergents “strip wax protection and leave paint “vulnerable to the elements.” but I don’t have any
dish washing detergents here at the shop because
dish washing is for ladies. Plus I’m gonna be using
some wax and grease remover later, so it’s
not gonna be a huge issue. See, that would be useless. I only use paper plates, plastic forks, and foam cups, no need to wash dishes. That’s only for the ladies. All right, next we have ourself a clean bucket of water. And using a clean sponge,
thoroughly clean our panel. And it goes without saying, this would be a lot more efficient, if
you have a garden hose. All right, now with the panel all clean, you guys might be able to tell better, what’s going on. Now if you’re wondering, this line here is because I had some masking paper here. I was going to try to
repair the clear coat only, on this panel. But then I realized this clear coat is just too far out gone. Plus I think more people are interested in seeing how you can spray both base coat and clear coat, using rattle cans. All right, now your base coat, that’s the coat that
gives your car it’s color, is really, really thin. Which means it cannot fill in or cover any deep scratches or
rough surfaces, like these. It can only fill in and cover scratches left by a 400 grit sandpaper. Now a 400 grit sandpaper is not particularly a coarse sandpaper. So in order to remove these chipped paint on this panel, we’re going to use some 220 grit sandpaper. Which is a bit more coarse
than a 400 grit sandpaper. And it should make easy work of this peeling clear coat. So the plan for this panel is to apply base coat to the
front, where the damages are. And then blend that into the middle section of the panel. And apply clear coat to the entire panel. Also, if you’re new to this stuff, I recommend, use some masking tape to create boundaries
for your repair areas. Because let’s say we gonna be sanding this area down up to here,
with 220 grit sandpaper. After that, we’re gonna be applying primer and we’re gonna
go past a few inches, just to make sure we cover
everything we sanded. And then after we apply primer, we’re gonna be sanding that down with 400 grit sandpaper. And again, we’re gonna go
a few inches above that. Because over there we’re
gonna be applying base coats. So if you’re not careful,
your repair area can expand. So get yourself some masking tape, and create yourself a boundary, below which you’re going to be sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. All right, so here’s
looking at the boundary we have so far. Also, if you peel back the tape like this, this will help to ensure
that your sanding block does not accidentally go over this and scratch beyond this. But anyway, when you’re sanding just try to stop short about an inch before you get to the boundary line. Also, it’s very important to get some tape and put it on the edges
of the adjacent panels. So you don’t accidentally scratch them when you’re sanding. Now you want to do this all the way to the top, on both sides. Because you’re gonna eventually have to sand down the entire panel anyway. Next, you grab yourself a
sanding block like this. I like to use these soft sanding blocks. And these, the gray side is a little bit more soft than the black side. And if you’re wondering, for this job, I’m gonna be using the black side which is a little bit more firm. So you wanna make sure that
lays flat against the panel. All right, so next we just simply wrap your sanding paper,
around your sanding block. And then you simply go at it, until you have a smooth surface. And for this you are going
to need some elbow grease. Again, link in the
description box down below. So here’s a close up shot
of what you’ll need to do. Basically, you want to get the areas that look like this, to look
like this, nice and smooth. You simply keep going at
it until that happens. See, we’re expanding here. And these white marks, these white areas, this is your primer. You don’t wanna sand over these too much because you don’t wanna
go through the primer and get to bare metal. So you wanna move away from the areas where you see white. So, yeah, we’re just gonna move lower. Also, it’s a good idea to have a damp, microfiber towel to clean the area as you’re sanding. So you can check your work and know exactly where you are. Oh yeah, you might as
well have one of these. All righty, 25 minutes
later, here’s what we have. On this side where we
had deeper rock chips, I had to go deeper. As a result you can see
some of the white primer that was underneath her base coat. But, like, in this area where we have the smaller rock chips, primer should be able to take care of these, no problem. And here’s looking at
the other side as well. And I did manage to stay short of our border, for the most part. All right, next in preparation for spraying primer I am actually going to remove our masking tape, where our border is. Because as you can see, there is some sanding dust that’s stuck
right underneath it. And we need to clear that up. Because when you start spraying primer that’s gonna go airborne
and get all over the place. And you don’t want that to happen. So we’re just gonna remove that. And then clean that up. And then reapply our masking tape to the same exact area. Here we go. So once again, we’ll clean the area with some clean water. Make sure you’re very thorough. Then get yourself a
clean microfiber towel. And then dry off your repair area. You can, obviously, air dry it, if you have an air compressor. Next we’ll grab ourself
some grease and wax remover. And then using another
clean microfiber towel, we’re going to thoroughly clean the area where we’re gonna be spraying primer. And you know, you could just make two passes and then flip
your microfiber towel over and do the rest of it. And this stuff works great. And it evaporates quickly, as well. So once again, we’re gonna
mark our repair area. And you wanna go an inch, inch and 1/2 just above where you see
the 220 sand scratches. All right? And again, peel back the masking tape. All right, now as far as what type of primer you wanna spray, you wanna keep a couple of things in mind. The first thing is that you wanna spray a high built primer so that it can fill in the 220 grit sand scratches and the rock chips you see here. And the other thing is that you wanna pick a color that’s the same or very close to your base coat. So here, our base coat
is pretty much black, so we preferably want a black primer or maybe a gray primer. But most important of all, you wanna pick a primer that’s compatible with your Urethane based
base coat clear coat. See these Rust-Oleum
primers that they sell at the AutoZone, these are not compatible with your base coat clear coat. So these are lacquer based primers. And if you spray these on your panel and then spray your Urethane base, base coat and clear coat, these are gonna bleed through that. And you’re gonna be able to see it. And it’s not gonna look good. Also, if you can afford it, you should use a 2K primer, which is what I have here. Instead of a 1K primer. See a 2K primer is
basically a two part primer. It’s got the primer
inside and the catalyst towards the bottom. And you mix them right before you’re ready to spray it. And the way you go about mixing them is to first shake the can
for two minutes straight. Next, you’ll remove this
red plastic cap up top. And then place it on the bottom like this. And put the can upside down. And with your hand press this
in all the way, like that. And now, the catalyst is
mixed with the primer. And once more you’re gonna have to shake the can for two minutes
before you start spraying. And generally speaking, these 2k primers, there just much more durable. And they also sand a lot better. Oh yeah, before we start spraying, we need to cover up our car. And for that I like to use
these plastic drop cloths. They are 10 by 20 feet. And they make the job a lot easier. Oh and if I remember correctly, they’re only about five bucks or so. Just open it up. Throw it over the car like this. Then get yourself a razor blade. And simply cut around the
area that’s to be painted. Then just peel this back. To the border. And then get yourself
some more masking tape. And then simply tape the
plastic in place, like this. As I said earlier, it’s important to back mask the tape in
the middle of the panel. So that when you spray the primer you don’t have a big line here. All right before we start spraying. We’re gonna maximize our fan area that’s going to be coming out of this can. By turning this plastic
top clockwise, like this. And the absolute last
step, before we start spraying our primer, is
to tack down our panel with a tack cloth. And we’re gonna spray with 50% overlap. And make sure you start spraying before you start moving your arm. There is what it looks
like after our first pass. So now we’re just gonna wait 10 minutes and apply a second coat. And I’m not sure what color this primer’s gonna look like on camera,
but it’s gray in real life. All right, time for our second pass. Gonna put this on a little heavier. 10 minutes later, time for
our third and final coat. All right, next, since it’s about freezing temperature here,
in Southern California, which is exactly about
65 degrees Fahrenheit, we’re gonna have to wait an hour before we can start sanding this down. And that means it’s time for lunch. And what’s for lunch? A California Burrito, what else? And here’s what you wanna get in your California Burrito. No salsa, sour cream, french fries, cheese, and just the Carne
Asada, and that’s it. And then you add your own hot sauce. And this is gonna come out super good. Giving you guys so much today. All right, so it’s been an hour and now we’re ready to
start sanding your primer. But before we take off our masking paper, it’s a good idea to do a quick spray of a different color primer
or paint on this primer. And I’m gonna be using this
red, 1K primer for this. And this is basically a guide coat. This is gonna help you know exactly where you’ve sanded and where you haven’t. And here you have it. This is what you want it to look like. All righty, once again
we get a razor blade and we’re gonna cut this plastic all the way to the top of the hood. And then we just peel this back. And once again, just about an inch or so above our primer, we’re gonna put a masking tape, to limit where our 400 grit sand
scratches are going to go. All right, next we’ll grab ourself a 400 grit sand paper. And again, using the black
side of our sanding block. We’re going to sand down our panel. You don’t wanna go super crazy. You just wanna make sure
you have a smooth surface. There we go. And this guide coat we sprayed on here, this is gonna help us greatly in finding out exactly where we’ve sanded and where we haven’t. And the most important
area to sand properly is going to be this edge right here. We wanna make sure this looks like this. So that when you spray your base coat you don’t see it later on. Because if you leave it
like this, you will see it. Here’s what it looks like 15 minutes in. You guys wanna take a guess where we need to keep sanding? And here’s how it looks like all done. And we were able to effectively get rid of our edge. So now we’re gonna remove the masking tape that we had here. And now we’re going to sand down the rest of the panel with
some 1500 grit sandpaper. You know what, since I don’t wanna wet sand this panel, I’m actually going to use a gray
Scotch-Brite pad to scuff it up. And I don’t wanna wet sand, because if you wet sand and water gets on the primered areas,
then generally speaking, you need to wait about four hours, or maybe even overnight for the primered area to completely dry before you start spraying your base coat. Just make sure you scuff up the edges. Because if you don’t, that’s where your new clear coat is gonna
start peeling from. Also make sure you go a few inches into the areas where you have the 400 grit scratches. Because base coat can stick to both 400 grit and 1500 grit scratches. But it can only fill in and cover 400 grit scratches and finer. Oh yeah, this isn’t any Scotch-Brite pad. This is an autobody and
refinishing Scotch-Brite pad. Again, link in discussion box. All right, all done. As you can see our panel
is nicely scuffed up. All right, next you’re gonna need to clean the heck out of this panel before we start spraying our base coat. What I’m going to do is to use a lot of grease and wax remover on this area where we have the clear coat. This area where we have the
base coat is pretty clean. So I’m not gonna rub too much grease and wax remover into that. But this area is gonna
get completely clean. Also, we have sand dust everywhere. And we need to get all of that cleaned up. Now you at home may not have an option. But it might just be a better idea if we just use a garden hose. And completely wash
down your car with water before you go on to the
grease and wax remover. But over here I have an air compressor. So I can just use that
to dust off the car. Oh yeah, don’t forget
to dust off yourself. Now it’s time for some grease
and wax remover action. And next what we wanna do is to start spraying our base coat. What you want to do is
to get your paint coat, which is usually, either on a sticker inside your driver’s side door jam, or your glove box, or
your spare tire well. And take that to your local
auto body shop supply store. And have them mix that and put it inside of a spray can like this. And I’m hoping, one of these
will do the job here today. But you may need two. We’re about to find out. Also, not all auto body supply stores will put this in a can for you. But again, if you wanna buy it online, link in the description box down below. And again, last step
before we start spraying, is to tack down our entire panel. Then we start spraying, same pattern and everything as we sprayed our primer. Uh oh, Houston, we may have a problem. I’m kidding, this is normal. We may yet, still have a problem but it’s too early to tell anyway. And now we wait 10 minutes
for our second coat. But I might have forgot to mention that for now we’re just gonna spray in the primered area. After we cover this area, then we’ll blend into the rest of the panel later. All right, 10 minutes later, we’re going to first tack down our panel, once more. And do our second coat. Here’s a look after our second pass. Now this is starting to look more like it. 10 minutes later, we
tack it down, once more. And now it looks even better. We might be able to pull this off with one can after all. I think just one more coat. And then do the blend area. And that should do it. All righty, we got pretty good coverage in our primered area. And now in order to do our blend, what I’m gonna do is to just put one medium coat right here. And then move up 50% and do a light coat. And that should blend it
into the rest of the panel. So here you have it folks. There’s some glare in
this picture, I know. And it’s gonna be kinda
hard seeing what’s going on. But I think you guys get the right idea. And now we just wait an hour
and spray our clear coat. All righty, now we’re ready to start spraying our clear coat. Now as far as what type of clear coat you wanna spray? Well, if you can get your hands on one, you wanna spray a 2K clear coat. Because you’re probably going to need to wet sand and polish
the clear coat later. And you really can’t
polish a 1K clear coat. You’re probably just gonna
bear right through it. And these mix the same way as the primer. You move this from up top. Put them on the bottom. And push them in, like that. And then you shake them for two minutes. And then you tack down
your panel one last time. After this, you’re not going to be able to tack down
your panel, of course. And then you start spraying. There’s 1/2, not too shabby eh? And here’s the second 1/2. Now we just wait about 10 minutes before we spray our second coat. All right, after our second
pass here’s what we have. I don’t know if you guys can see it, but it came out a little streaky, the clear coat, on this end. And also somewhat orange peely, but that’s to be expected. After all, you’re spraying
clear coat out of a spray can. But both of those issues can be fixed with some wet sanding and some polishing. So next, I’m just gonna
wait another 10 minutes and then spray whatever clear coat is left in that can on this panel. And then be done with clear coat. All right, 10 minutes later, and with whatever’s left in this can, I’m just gonna go over this,
where I see the streaks. I’m gonna go over this way. Towards the side of this panel, so I can hopefully get rid of them. And now just gonna wait an hour. And then take off the masking tape and this plastic sheet. And give you guys a final look. All right, an hour later,
here’s a look at our panel. We got really good
coverage with the base coat and we were able to blend it pretty well. You can’t tell where the
primer and the repair area was. But it is going to need some wet sanding and polishing, as one would expect. You also need to polish
the adjacent panels. Just so that the newly painted panel doesn’t stand out on your car. And with that said, going to wrap this up. If you enjoyed watching this video, do me a favor and share this video on your favorite social network. And also check out these
other related videos of which I’ll put links to
on this side of the screen, that you can click on. There will also be
links in the description box down below as well. All right, thanks for watching. I’ll see you guys next time. (electronic music)

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Your instructions are spot , used it to paint hood of my c230 and results are amazing ! Thanks man ??

  2. Great instructions. The only confusing part for me is that I thought primer could only be used on bare metal. Obviously that is not the case. So when do you need primer and when don't you need primer?

  3. Question, I painted my car with 2x Rustoleum and I have some strips in the paint. What can I do to take the strips out?

  4. This guy is singlehandedly killing the planet with all his single use cutlery. Buy some ceramic plates and start being a lady and wash your dishes.

  5. Using an aerosol can on any vehicle is never nothing to be proud of only person that would do it would be a hack if you can't afford to do it right then wait because putting uncatalyzed paint down only causes problems for others later only a jerk would do that

  6. I'm very glad I came across these videos. I had no idea how to get a rattle can job to stay. I would do some sanding then dry then spray a primer and after it dried out I painted but nothing like you have shared. Ty. Also the headlights amazing. I sprayed some insect repellent we use when we go fishing, camping etc. and it did look better but it isn't anything like you shared….

  7. Couldnt tell if you were wearing a respirator/eye protection when painting. Should tell people to be sure to wear one. 2K aerosols are labeled to be used by professionals only. Can't stress enough to follow precautions. Body, eye, breathing instructions.

  8. Hi there I am going to be starting a car painting course I just need to know tips and advice and the lower the number on sandpaper the better yes or no please let me know.

  9. Meh, I didn't like the final result as much. I really think you should have covered the entire hood with that last coat of black paint. I mean, you literally had like a few more inches left. It would of made a difference. Also, the portion of the hood towards the front seems to be a lot heavier in the base coat. It looked like the paint almost pooled there. You should of backed away a little more. Overall still cool work! Something that anyone can do.

  10. Is this going to work with metallic paint?
    I have a Jaguar XJ8 that has small clear coat peel in a couple of places. Colour is couple of shades lighter than navy blue.

  11. Another question. I bought a buffer. 1st time buffing The buffing pad was jumping around would not glide. What am i doing wrong. Do i need to do something to the pad. Do i need to wet the pad to make softer. It ended up taking to much paint off. Like the paid was to dry. Was not gliding like videos I see. I was using compound

  12. Don't be FOOLED ~ even though he did solid work, using spray can clear will not last long as it can not take the heat and UV rays of the sun. Cheap tools & materials represent the single biggest mistake DIYers make when approaching these types of projects. A good tool is not an
    expense, it is an asset that can be sold for 80%-90% of it's value once the job is done, and in the end it will produce superior results and require much less sanding & polishing. Best budget HVLP Systems: 1st choice: Fuji 2202 Semi-PRO 2 ($439) (2203 gravity fed version) & 2nd choice: Earlex HV5500 ($299).

  13. Don't be FOOLED ~ even though he did solid work, using spray can clear will not last long as it can not take the heat and UV rays of the sun. Cheap tools & materials represent the single biggest mistake DIYers make when approaching these types of projects. A good tool is not an expense, it is an asset that can be sold for 80%-90% of it's value once the job is done, and in the end it will produce superior results and require much less sanding & polishing. Best budget HVLP Systems: 1st choice: Fuji 2202 Semi-PRO 2 ($439) (2203 gravity fed version) & 2nd choice: Earlex HV5500 ($299).

  14. I've been painting over 20 yrs and i always use dawn soap to wash a vehicle cus it's the best soap to use.

  15. Never blast compressed air at your body or others you can blast a bubble of air under your skin and it can kill you if it travels this is an osha standardized safety rule

  16. This paint job made me realize why I should get a pro to paint my car, and not you. Thanks for the sexist comment and trashy video! ?

  17. He said the reason u would rattle can is because u dont have an air compressor, then he said we can air dry it, if we have an air compressor, if i had an air compressor, i wouldnt be rattle canning my engine bay and trunk.

  18. 16:23 I have many many times the problem when holding the can like you hold, it starts spitting, even at warm temperatures. Any idea why?

  19. Thanks for a great video. I followed your instructions to the letter when I fixed the clearcoat damage on the front of my RV. It worked great! My only issue was the spray tip that came with the base coat cans. It was way too narrow and at the time of application I was too dumb to try the tips from the primer or clearcoat cans. I made do however and I'm very happy with the results.

  20. I WAS going to paint the van that I'm customizing myself to travel the U.S. but now I realize I should be washing dishes. Thanks for your enlightenments.

  21. Man, it's years later and im finally doing a rattle can paint with the 2k stuff. Your vid is the all time best on you toob! Thank you for taking the time to post your work. Much respect and hope you are well ?

  22. Would it have been okay just to paint the whole hood? And would you use polishing compound to polish it after it has dried?

  23. Would this method and primer work if there were spots of exposed sheet metal or would you need to add a step for the bare metal?

  24. New to me was the notion of sanding boundaries which clarifies so much about which grits to use during the prep process and why. Thanks. I will use this knowledge often.

  25. I suggest not splitting the hood into sections when applying any products. Do full cover passes, and all the same direction. It'll prevent the tiger striping you likely encountered and reduce orange peel.

  26. Great video! Question: why not use a random orbital sander to sand with the 400 grit to get things started? Seems like that would save a lot of time, right?

  27. Do you know if the 1k hardeners/cataylists (for acrylic enamel sprayed with a gun) have the same dangerous isocayanites as the 2k? I get confused because sometimes people spray 1k acrylic enamel out of a can with no hardener and I hear that's a lot safer… I wasn't sure if the harmful chemicals were found in the chemicals of the hardener catalyst or if they were found in the urethane paints thanks

  28. Hood was hard to do because it's horizontal. I didn't do my clear coat evenly, and got sags. What should I use to sand those off before I spray again? Wet sand 1000, 1500, Scotch Brite…?

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