How To Coat And Protect A Brand New Car – Chemical Guys Carbon Flex C9 Vehicle Coating

How To Coat And Protect A Brand New Car – Chemical Guys Carbon Flex C9 Vehicle Coating


Check it out it’s a Subaru brand new WRX. Very sick Pearl White. Welcome back to Detail Garage. Today is an exciting day because we’re talking
about how to protect a brand new car. Now the owner of this car just picked it up
from the Subaru dealership. He drove it from the dealership to here in
the Detail Garage. Over the trip it was rainy and he did get
some mud splashing on the car but it’s still in practically mint condition. There’s not really any defects on the paint
and its not too contaminated or scratched up. So the time to protect a brand new car is
now! Yeah the car has very light water spots because
it did rain on its way over here. It has minor scuffs from being unloaded which
we’re going to address and we’ll show you how to get rid of those marks. So as with any detailing it’s all in the prep
work. If you do the prep work correctly you’re going
to get the best results. We’re actually going to apply a vehicle coating
to this car. There’s many levels of protection you can
have a wax, a sealant or a vehicle coating. Now the higher up you go in the hierarchy
the better protection you’ll get, the longer it’ll last and the longer you’ll keep your
car looking great. We’re going to apply Carbon Flex C9 Vehicle
Coating over all the paintwork. We’re going to apply it to all the clear surfaces,
polished parts, any glass, optical plastic like head lights and tail lights, paintwork,
badges and chrome trim around the vehicle. We’re going to apply Carbon Flex C9 Trim Coating
on any of the plastic and rubber trim around the vehicle to keep all that looking great
as well. So to get started we’re going to take the
car outside and give it a bubble bath with Honeydew Snow Foam. Then what are we going to do to decontaminate
the car Alex? We’re going to be using a Light Clay Bar to
remove the contamination without marring the paint or damaging the surfaces. When you have a brand new car all you need
is a Light Clay Bar most of the time. We already did a test spot on the vehicle
and it’s feeling very very smooth already it just has very light contamination from
being out on the ship. So it’s not going to need too heavy of a clay
bar service. Looking around the vehicle there aren’t too
many spots that need polishing. There’s maybe just a couple but we’ll show
you how to do it in case your car has scratches. So we’ll take care of any scratches before
we put on the coating. Anything under the coating is going to be
there for up to three full years. We’re going to take out any marks that we
don’t want and then we’ll seal to protect the car. Lets get started! So the paint isn’t too contaminated but it
is already feeling a little bit rough and the paint is actually pretty sticky. Even though it is totally clean my hand is
getting caught on the paintwork so we need to take off all this rough feeling using a
clay bar. The Blue Clay Bar, like Alex said, is a light
duty one. We don’t need an aggressive grit clay bar
to pull off heavy contamination or oxidation we’re just taking off very light surface contamination. You see the clay bar comes in a 100 gram block. You don’t need to use the whole brick when
you’re just claying a car by yourself. The best thing to do is to break off a small
piece of the clay bar. Roughly about one third of the block. So one whole block will do about twelve cars. Depending on how dirty or how big they are. You can see how stretchy this clay bar is. Even the light duty one is very sticky. It’s easier to handle this clay bar around
the vehicle but if you drop it you have to throw it out. That’s another reason why you only want to
use a small piece at a time that way if you drop it you don’t lose a whole clay bar in
one shot. We’re also going to be using our Clay Lubricant. Clay Lubricant is going to make the surface
really slick and it’s also healthy for the clay bar so it won’t degrade the clay bar
at all. It’s going to make your clay bar last a lot
longer and it’s going to make the surface super slick making it easier for you to pull
out the contaminants. Once you’ve washed the vehicle, you saw that
we did a foam cannon wash but you can wash the vehicle any way that you choose whether
you choose a bucket wash, foam cannon, fun gun or waterless detailing method like EcoSmart. Once you get all the dirt off and the vehicle
is clean you’re ready to decontaminate all the stuck on debris with the clay bar. Now what exactly are we pulling out? This is sort of like extracting blackheads
from skin. If you’ve ever used those pores strips on
your nose or something. We’re doing the same thing to the paintwork. All we’re pulling out is stuff that gets stuck
in the pores of the paint like brake dust, rail dust, industrial pollution, contamination,
tree sap or bug guts we’re pulling it out with the clay bar. You’ll know you’re done when you’re scrubbing
an area with the clay bar and it turns very smooth. That’s how you know you’re done decontaminating
an area and then you can move on to another. It’s best to do one region or panel at a time
so you can see that Alex and I are focusing on the hood right now. We’ll do the whole front end and then the
roof, doors and trunk in different passes. Also one thing to remember while you’re claying
is the technique. The technique you want to use is make the
clay into a disc and keep it well lubricated. As you’re moving you want to do short fast
strokes back and forth. You don’t have to do a crazy circular motion
just straight strokes. Before we coat this car with Carbon Flex we
want to correct any imperfections that might have come from the dealership. Although this car is brand new sometimes technicians
boots can run along the side of the car. Even when they unwrap the car because these
hoods usually come wrapped and sometimes it’ll get scuffed or scratched. So we’re here using V36 and our TORQ 10FX. I’m also going to use a white pad. White is usually used for polishing. But since this is a new car it’ll be perfect
to get this imperfection. It’ll leave the surface nice and smooth and ready for the Carbon Flex. There we go the scuff is gone, there is one
more scratch on the other side. I’m going to check the vehicle for any other
scratches and once we get them removed it’ll be ready for Carbon Flex. Now that our paint is finally clean we got
rid of any scratches and imperfections and also decontaminated it it’s ready for Carbon
Flex C9. Carbon Flex C9 is going to protect this paint
for up to 36 months so we want to make sure this paint is immaculate just like it is. Start off by opening the bottle of C9 then
spread a small amount on the micro suede applicator. Now that we’ve got the Carbon Flex C9 spread
out on this micro suede it is time to start applying it. Make sure it is applied in nice even strokes. It is always best to work in small areas. Giving nice even coverage. Alright perfect so now we’re going to allow
five minutes for the Carbon Flex to thoroughly bond to the surface. Now that five minutes have past it is time
to buff off any excess or streaks. You’ll notice that many of the streaks disappeared
within the five minute period but there still may be some left over just buff them off with
a microfiber towel. It has a really nice high shine. This pearl is really starting to look really good. As I’m wiping I can feel the surface is really slick. I’m very happy with the results I’m getting
on this paint. This paint is looking amazing. Remember that after you wipe off any excess
streaks you have to throw away that microfiber towel and also the micro suede towel and do
not touch the paint for at least 24 hours. Let Carbon Flex C9 properly bond to the paint
before applying any dressings or waxes or added protection. Let this dry for 24 hours before you decide
to add any additional coatings of protection or shine. So now that we’ve gone ahead and coated the
whole exterior of the vehicle we’re going to move on to the rear and dress the trim. We have some of this textured black plastic
around the vehicle such as the rear spoiler on the bumper, around the cowl on the windshield,
the plastic trim pieces around the fog lights and the rubber stripping around the door seals
and windows. We’re going to seal up this trim with Carbon
Flex C9 Trim Coating. You notice a lot of cars driving on the road
and you see the plastic trim like on the backs on large trucks or the fender liners/flares
on Jeeps have a lot of the plastic trim that looks really weathered, really white and really chalky. That’s from things like UV sunlight and caustic
cleaners or chemicals leeching into the plastic fading it or staining it. So to seal up the plastic and help protect
it from all the harsh elements I’m going to use Carbon Flex C9 Trim Coating. It applies much the same way as the C9 Vehicle
Coating you just take the micro suede applicator towel wrap it around the included Durafoam
Applicator Block. I’ll activate the C9 Trim Coating. Just like when you’re spreading out C9 on
the applicator for the paintwork just invert the bottle and put it directly on the applicator. That is more than enough to do the rear spoiler
on this bumper. Now you notice I’m sitting on the ground on
a piece of cardboard. This is a great way to get very low on a vehicle
without messing up your clothing and I’m can still be comfortable when I spread out the
Trim Coating. I’m making sure to get it in all the different areas. This piece is not only made with textured
plastic it is actually a very intricate sculpted shape. It has a lot of little fins and grilles and
grates that need to be dressed back here but the Carbon Flex spreads very easily. It’s very easy to get this whole surface. I’m just going to make sure that I coat the
whole rear spoiler so that it stays looking deep black and crisp and clean for up to three
full years. So no water, mud or road salt is going to
stain it and the UV sunlight isn’t going to fade it. Now I have just a normal Workhorse Microfiber
Towel and I’ll buff off any excess. This is looking great so I’m going to finish
off the rear spoiler and we’re going to go around the car making sure to dress all the
other trim pieces around the doors and windows and on the front bumper. So now we got this car completely protected
from bumper to bumper. We put Carbon Flex C9 over all the paintwork,
the glass, the clear plastic and C9 Trim Coating on all the parts around the windows, the front
and rear spoilers and even around the door mirrors. Those parts are known to turn white and look
chalky over time. Yeah this car has beautiful white pearl paint
and it looks amazing with this new coating. So now that we’ve protected this car it’s
going to look brand new for years to come. If you want to learn more about the Carbon
Flex C9 Paint Coating or Trim Coating you can check them out on our website the links
are right below. If you want to learn more about how to detail
any part of your car inside or out subscribe to our YouTube channel we have over eight
hundred videos showing you how to detail just about anything. You got a nice car lets keep it looking brand
new with Chemical Guys.

About the Author: Michael Flood

45 Comments

  1. I like the idea of using a wash mit from a super soapy buckets as my lubrication source (no pun intended) when claying my car. I feel like anything sprayed out of a bottle is just not enough to act as a shield against the clay and paint.

  2. Would you recommend carbon flex c9 for new paint not necessarily a new vehicle but a vehicle that has been repainted

  3. You think car dealers would have this stuff on to begin with. Gonna wash, clay bar polish/sealant and then wax my new 17 Impreza subie. Can't wait. Gonna be hella nice.

  4. So in an ideal world where you could add all the bells and whistles…wax, sealant, polish, C9, etc….what exactly would you do and in what order would you add them/how often for each? Thanks!

  5. Hi Chemical guys…I'm getting a 2017 WRX STI premium soon which has a factory STI lip kit installed. Can I use the Carbon Flex C9 trim coat for those pieces?

  6. What is the highest pressure pressure washer I can get without it damaging the cars paint. How should I execute cleaning a car with a pressure washer (aka the distance, the type of spray mode etc).

  7. my dark grey 2016 wrx paint is absolute garbage, bought a few weeks ago lol it needs some TLC and a possible repaint or two in a couple areas. I want to detail it so badly myself and dont have anything.. but its gonna feel sooooo good when i finally can!!!

  8. You polished it leaving wax on, and then applied a coating, without using IPA or a cleanser? Good luck making that last more than 2 months

  9. I have a question. After I've washed, clayed, and polished my car. Do I need to apply Jet Seal then Carbon Flex or do I need to apply Jet Seal at all, and then wax? Does Carbon Flex take the place of a sealer?

  10. I get a new car in december.
    I guess i can follow all the steps shown in the video : pre wash, light wash, dry, light claybar with lub, rince, dry again. I thought afterwards to use Iron x to remove what would be deeper on the paint then rince, dry and afterwards I would not use an orbital polisher… I would directly go for protection. I bought the Chemical Guys Top Coat sealant ( carnauba 3x ). Would it be a good way to go with my new coming car ? Thx.

  11. I Just got a 2018 CrossTrek with the Eyesight feature about 2 weeks ago. The user manual indicates not to use a ceramic coating on the vehicle because it can mess with the forward facing Eyesight. So I washed it with a foam cannon and two bucket method, clay barred, then CG Wet Mirror Finish, JetSeal, and Butterwet wax using a DA. VRP for the tires and interior. Scotchguard on the carpets and fabric interior. And finally some Maguires trim cream on the external trim.

  12. Two questions about the C9!
    1: (I own the same style, 2017 STi) how many times will this Carbon Flex C9 allow me to use this on my car? Is it a one time use?
    2: After applying the C9 how long do I have to wait to apply a wax or sealant?

  13. Is this necessary if you are planning to wrap the car in pain protection film? Can you tell me the difference in protection between wrap and C9?

  14. I don't get it. If the paint on that brand new Subaru already feels rough and sticky . . . does this mean the paint job at the factory is shitty?

  15. Hi Chemical Guys.
    Is it necessary to coat and wax a completely new car? Because some dealers say that the paint must cure for at least 60 days.

  16. Can you make a video on how different brand's of cars paint needs to be taken care of.

    Because I have a Subaru crosstrek and people tell me it has thin paint.

  17. After ceramic coating, I understand you can detail ceramic coating, but could you use buttery wet wax or anything else? Just want to clarify what you’re limited to in regards to detailing a ceramic coating, thanks!

  18. Is this method recommendable for matt colors? I get a new car in march in matt grey and wanna protect the paint as long as possible….

  19. That rear 'spoiler' is actually called a diffuser… 😉
    For the rest: I'm curious about how this would work on my new car? I'm getting the new car delivered in a week from now… (in mica black pearl, Hyundai Ioniq EV)

  20. hello how u doing? i have a question about carbon flex c9 i hear u mention carbon flex c9 for trims, is that the same u use for the hole car? or that's 2 different solution? thank u

  21. Awesome vid. I have a question though. Was there a step not shown between the machine polishing and the flex coat? Or is it ok to just wipe the polishing wax off and apply the flex coat? Thanks.

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