How to improve the quality of your 3D prints on the Original Prusa i3 MK3?

How to improve the quality of your 3D prints on the Original Prusa i3 MK3?


Chtěli byste, aby vaše výtisky vypadaly takto… …zatímco vypadají spíše takto? Nehezké výtisky jsou většinou způsobeny Některým z těchto běžných problémů: 1) Zarovnání podávacích koleček Bondtech Kolečka musí být zarovnána tak, aby mohla správně posouvat filament Povolte šroub na kolečku a kolečko posuňte do správné pozice Filament musí procházet přímo Pak šroub opět utáhněte 2) Ložiska v podávacích kolečkách Bondtech Ujistěte se, že máte OBĚ ložiska správně vložená do podávacích koleček 3) Přítlak na extruder idleru Přehnaně dotažený idler má za následek nepravidelné vytlačování filamentu Povolte šrouby a mírně otevřete dvířka idleru Začněte zavádět filament, zatímco budete opět šrouby utahovat Až ozubená kolečka Bondtech zachytí filament a extruder jej začne vytlačovat znamená to, že jsou šrouby správně dotaženy. Uvolněný díl X-Carriage Ujistěte se, že zadní část dílu X-Carriage není uvolněná Zkontrolujte všech pět šroubů a dotáhněte je, pokud je to potřeba Uvolněné nebo přetažené svorníky na ose Y Pokud nejsou svorníky dotažené, tisková podložka se může viklat Pokud jsou svorníky přetažené, nemůže se tisková podložka plynule pohybovat Ložiska musí být vycentrovaná Oba konce svorníku musí být rovnoměrně dotaženy Matku dotáhněte k horní straně Y-Carriage Pak už jen matku dotáhněte o 90° Kvalita filamentu Stabilní průměr struny filamentu je nezbytný pro úspěšný tisk Pouze stabilní průměr zajistí konzistentní extruzi Další vlastnosti jsou neméně důležité Ne každý výrobce je schopen vyrobit filament dostatečné kvality Udržujte vaše filamenty suché. Vlhkost snižuje kvalitu. Uchycení hlazených tyčí Zkontrolujte, zda jsou tyče správně zasunuté Dotáhněte šrouby Proveďte stejnou kontrolu i na ose X Tisková hlava se musí hýbat plynule MK3 profily pro slicování Vždy používejte naše MK3 profily Spolu s ovladači je můžete stáhnout z www.prusa3d.cz/ovladace Pokud ke slicování používáte jiný program, stáhněte si a naimportujte naše profily Zkalibrujte linearitu extruderu Klikněte na odkaz pod videem, který vede na help.prusa3d.com Až si vytisknete tuto testovací věž uvidíte, které nastavení je pro vás to nejlepší Zbavte se moiré efektu Zkalibrujte násobič extruze Klikněte na odkaz pod videem, který vás zavede na help.prusa3d.com Zkontrolujte, zda se na vaší tiskárně neprojevil některý ze zmíněných problémů Vylepšete si kvalitu tisku Všechny tyto problémy lze snadno vyřešit

About the Author: Michael Flood

70 Comments

  1. I've been wondering this for so long, I always thought they just had more expensive printers! I will definitely try this.

  2. I’m glad you made this video when i bought the prusa mk3 I was scared but since you made this video I know if I have these issues I could fix it.

    I can’t wait till it comes

    EDIT. It came with some gummies yay 😁

  3. Suggestion for future printers, make it sense not just the filament presence but the diameter and take that into account when doing the extrusion. I know this is a big one, but if anyone could pull it off is Prusa!

  4. Man alive! I was about to go home and clean up my printer but after seeing this I’ll check everything on the list 👍 boom! Great vid as usual team Prusa

  5. does over tightening the U bolts permanently damage the linear bearings or does loosening them fix the problem? awesome and super informative video as always guys!

  6. I just finished a 25-hour print in ABS with the MK3. It was a flat part taking up the entire print bed and it had tall, thick walls with 60% infill. I gave it a 30% chance of working, but with the help of a Lack enclosure, it actually came out great. I could kiss you, Mr. Prusa. Oh yes, and thank you for the quality-improving tips. I'll definitely double checks these things. Cheers!

  7. You should never use a skirt when printing Pikachu like that. Because then you can't see that the start of the print looks like an adorable little dick & balls 😀

  8. Top video. Great simple explanations with none of the nonsense. Tightening nuts with needle nose pliers though, criminal act.

  9. Iv spent to many hours on this trying to get it to extrude correctly, including the tips seen here. Got an ender 3 and it's been kicking ass..any reason my 180$ printer is outperforming my 700$ printer?

  10. Thank you, I will try that.
    At the moment, I am very very disappointed, because my mk3 works much worse than my mk2.
    Even if I use the same stl-file, sliced with slic3r PE (once for mk2 and once for mk3), using the same prusa filament, on the mk2 the parts are printable without problems, on the prusa mk3 I have a lot of extruder-slippering, so that the model is not printable at all.
    I have this extruder-problems since the beginning, I wrote about this with prusa support, I did everything, they told me, I did a lot of experiments, that users of the forum told me, but nothing helped.
    Simple models work (even if their results are not as good as on the mk2), but if the models are a bit mor detailed (for example small gears), they fail.
    It's a shame, that the next generation prusa printer is (at least in my case) a massive regression and not – as I hpoed and expected – a progression 🙁 (besides the money, that it costs)

  11. Po zakoupení sestavené tiskárny, která by měla být dle informací od výrobce dokonale zkalibrována již z výroby můj tisk "Modrého draka" vypadal jako tisk vlevo – tedy pruhovaný a ne úplně dokonalý.
    Tiskárna je myslím výborná, ale výrobcem sestavené tiskárny by dle mého měly opouštět výrobu pečlivěji zkalibrovány. Má osobní zkušenost – extrémní a hlavně nezkalibrovatelné zakřivení tiskové plochy, napnutí řemenů.
    Na druhou stranu mohu napsat, že přístup servisu a péče o zákazníka je příkladný jsou velmi ochotní.

    Google-translator: After purchasing the assembled printer, which should be perfectly calibrated according to the manufacturer's specifications from the production, my "Blue Dragon" print looked like a print on the left – striped and not perfect.
    I think the printer is great, but the manufacturer of the assembled printer should, in my opinion, leave the production more carefully calibrated. Has personal experience – extreme and, above all, unbalanced print curvature, belt tension.
    On the other hand, I can write that access to service and customer care is exemplary are very willing.

  12. I just printed this ecor-tower, but I do not understand, what to do now. I see 45° line-shadows in all segments. What do I have to do now, to correct this?
    Besides that 45° shadows, I can see vertical shadow-lines, too. What does this mean?

  13. I would also like to add loose belts to this. It happened to my MK2 after something like 600 hours of printing. It shouldn't be a problem with the MK3's setup though.

  14. Just amazing, someone should write a book about you guys and your unique (and critically important!) focus on both openness AND quality. Love my Prusa, works fantastically well.

  15. Please fix g-code file in Extrusion multiplier calibration guide. It's printing at 95% flow, this doesn't look like a good way to calibrate it. In your slic3r profile you have the same M221 S95. If you rely on 95% flow you should mention that calibrated multiplier will only work with system slic3r profile.

  16. This is so helpful. I was trying to think of a process for regular maintenance and this sure helped me focus on a few issues. I'm getting great prints usually, but some of the tweaks made a difference.

  17. This would be a great inclusion in  new section of the online assembly manual so that when a new purchaser has assembled the machine they can go to this new section and adjust everything properly

  18. I had some of those layering issues, but it was weird because I switched from Prusa Control to Slic3r PE and the issues were fixed

  19. I got to say that "#3 Tension on Extruder Idler" helped a great deal with my issues so far.  I set this tension per the kit instructions while putting it together and apparently it was WAY too tight.  Thanks for a great and extremely helpful video!!

  20. The idler spring adjustment procedure seems totally new and will hopefully become better known. Previously this seemed like guesswork at best. One note of caution on tightening the 5 screws in the back of the X-carriage: Overtightening or unevenly tightening the screws can cause the X-carriage to bind and fail to move properly.

  21. 2:35 Wich brand or Manufacturer can't produce filament of sufficient quality???
    On all the review, we only find "good quality filament". What are the bad brand???? It seam to be a myth that every Youtubers talk about, but nobody have a sharp photo of it!

  22. Lol, this video is the biggest waste of time by far. These are all the mistakes you could possibly make with the printer when building if you didnt read the manual. Most of this would be eliminated if you built the machine. Useless info

  23. None of these things fixed my “zits” on my prints. I’ve tried everything, and tried nothing (presets), they just do not go away. These things are common sense stuff.

  24. Since I'm still new at this, I'm going to try the tower but would like a little more information. When I am printing something, I am getting real fine lines on the edges of my items. It just enough that you can feel them with a fingernail rubbing on it. I printed the 3DHubs_Marvin and the back of the head shows these very fine lines. Is that what is expected or should it even be smoother. Will printing the tower give me a better setting or do I need to make some adjustment prior to printing the tower?

  25. Got my first 3D printer last week, the Original Prusa i3 MK3, kit. Very impressed but a huge amount of info to figure out how to print properly. Thank you lots for this video, it certainly provides a lot more tips then the handbook.

  26. Checked my MK3 on all points given in the video as well as Extruder Linearity and Extrusion Multiplier calibrations and the results were very good. Many thanks for the video and the links to the calibration pages!!

  27. so on the tension on the extruder idler is it strange that I can literally open the door of the non drive idler gear and my filament will still extrude with no issues? I was trying that step and it was extruding fine with the door all the way open. :0

  28. Good vid but "keep your filaments dry" and in the background few dozen filaments that haven't been bagged or otherwise protected from humidy.

  29. Why do I have ”assembly" problems on a factory assembled and tested machine?
    Even after checking these problems my prints still look the same poor quality!

  30. Thats not common problems, you have a inconsistent extrusion problem, and me and other friend save your ass with a bondtech 3:1 extruder design.

  31. You remarked that this won't help with PLA printing. But I have read that PLA warp (the bottom edges lift up) is caused by higher areas of the print cooling too fast, thus expanding/contracting at different rates than the material on the heated bed. And thus, enclosure may help with PLA warp. In your opinion, is that incorrect?

  32. I know a way to improve my pint quality on a Prusa i3 mk3, send me a new one like you did with "3D printing nerd", because mine's also sucks.Monday morning quality??????????

  33. Try everything cant improve the print quality , right now and after all problems prusa give me i dont recomend this printer and im 1 year with this printer !!!!

  34. I'm having issues with my mk3 not pushing the filament through the extruder. The first step in this video shows the grub screw being tightened NOT on the flat part of the shaft, which is causing my confusion, because PRUSA manual E-Axis Assembly step 15 & 17 show the screw on the flat part and it says: "The screw must be facing directly against the pad (flat part) on the shaft."

  35. Hy , i have a problem like this , is the over extrusion ,i have an ender 3 pro with mks gen l v1.0 mainboard, octoprint ,and a creality glass bed , i just calibrated my printer manualy with a a4 paper , but my prints look horrible , it was over extruded , after that i change the e steps per mm that wen i extrude 100mm to extrude the good lenght of filament , after that i seen that wen i extrude 100mm it have to extrude only 80 mm https://www.google.ro/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/&ved=2ahUKEwiJ-vSitb_jAhVXFogKHU83D1cQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3k6OL2aupULLT8EcoPKgMe&cshid=1563485540576 , read at number 3, ok after that i also changed my flow to 97.5 % and reduce printing temp for pla to 170 celsius , after that it looks a little better , but it no longger stick to the bed .
    First time i calibred with a thick cardboard, and it was over extrusion , after that with a a4 paper , and its under extrusion (not stick to the bed .
    Hy , i have a problem like this , is the over extrusion ,i have an ender 3 pro with mks gen l v1.0 mainboard, octoprint ,and a creality glass bed , i just calibrated my printer manualy with a a4 paper , but my prints look horrible , it was over extruded , after that i change the e steps per mm that wen i extrude 100mm to extrude the good lenght of filament , after that i seen that wen i extrude 100mm it have to extrude only 80 mm @t , read at number 3, ok after that i also changed my flow to 97.5 % and reduce printing temp for pla to 170 celsius , after that it looks a little better , but it no longger stick to the bed .
    First time i calibred with a thick cardboard, and it was over extrusion , after that with a a4 paper , and its under extrusion (not stick to the bed .
    i don't understand how much filament it realy have to extrude , becouse in this photo said if is set to extrude 120mm it have to extrude 120 mm soo 20 are left

    https://imgur.com/0VZftHM

    ,https://imgur.com/jk628pz

    right now i set to extrude100mm and i have LEFT 0MM, the extruded diammeter was about 0.3 mm , i have extruded with octoprint , in control section , my settings are (M503)

    Send: M503

    Recv: echo: G21 ; (mm)

    Recv: echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius

    Recv:

    Recv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled

    Recv: echo: M200 D1.75

    Recv: echo: M200 D0

    Recv: echo:Steps per unit:

    Recv: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E100.00

    Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):

    Recv: echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00

    Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):

    Recv: echo: M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E5000

    Recv: echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>

    Recv: echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00

    Recv: echo:Advanced: Q<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_x_jerk> Y<max_y_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>

    Recv: echo: M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00

    Recv: echo:Home offset:

    Recv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00

    Recv: echo:Material heatup parameters:

    Recv: echo: M145 S0 H185 B45 F255

    Recv: echo: M145 S1 H240 B0 F255

    my paper dimension is this https://imgur.com/jS94LTZ

    https://imgur.com/tRL9RTJ

    and the yesterday cardboard

    https://imgur.com/v85Zt2q

    my cura settings

    https://imgur.com/lPDyHK6

    https://imgur.com/A1MGbG0

    https://imgur.com/AjpCUVd

    https://imgur.com/uBSJbI2

    https://imgur.com/hLyX4dE

    https://imgur.com/MqfTS0o

    my flimanet diamenter is anbout 1.74

    https://imgur.com/eEGu22F

    and these are the try from left to right wen i tried to change the settings , the last one is better but after that no one stick anymore

    https://imgur.com/do0iuzg

    https://imgur.com/tkfWXmp

    https://imgur.com/OcydIR7

    also i check the diameter in octoprint wen i was printing in octoprint , at the gcode viewer section i see the diameter was 1.95 mm, but in my slicer , cura the diameter was set 1.74 , how can i change that in octoprint , wich one octoprint chose , the gcode setting (were is 1.74, good)or the octoprint settings , i check at the printer profile but there is no filament, my profile is a cr 10 modified profile , soo default it was set to 1.75

    , do you want the marlin profile ?
    Any ideas ? :))

  36. What a stupid printer! Ridiculous expensive, useless and very hard to control and use! I can print beautifully with cheaper printers! I regret to have purchased this crap!

  37. MUSIC: for everybody who is wondering which song of Joakim Karud this is: Loudness & Clarity – https://youtu.be/6X1BRYsl6sg

  38. Is the way of adjusting the tension on the idler still valid for the MK3S, now that you only have screw? You do mention in the assembly instructions that one screw means you need more tension from that one!!

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