How To Inspect And Detail A Classic Car – 1966 Mustang Shelby Cobra GT350H – Chemical Guys

How To Inspect And Detail A Classic Car – 1966 Mustang Shelby Cobra GT350H – Chemical Guys


I just wish this car looks as good as it drives. Yeah this car is amazing. And you do drive like a mad man. I try. Hey guys. Today in the detail garage me and Alex are going to be polishing this beautiful 1966 Mustang Shelby Cobra GT350H It looks cool and clean but it still needs some attention. Looks can be deceiving on this car. This car looks good on camera… but we are going to show the secret to reveal all it’s flaws. And believe me this car has a lot of them. So let’s get to it. Alright to let me show you exactly what I mean. So this car… from this angle, it looks great right? But you know what reveals everything? Sunlight. And technically we don’t have sunlight but we have a halogen light which is warm light. And if you go along with the light… you’ll see a lot of imperfections. You’ll see scratches and swirls. I’m seeing a lot of holograms; a lot of watermarks. Look at that. See what I mean about those holograms? Going along, look at that right there! You see a huge line going up and down. See Alex, look how bad that hologram is on this quarter panel. Looks like someone had some poor buffing techniques. Yeah exactly! these are pretty bad. So what Nick referred to were holograms. Holograms, are what a lot of people think are scratches and swirls on the surface. Mostly swirls. Technically they’re not. “Holograms” is more of a technical term and they’re usually caused by improper buffing techniques and for example, these holograms here they can only be revealed from certain angles from certain light sources. So let’s check out how bad the hologramming is on this car. I’m just seeing a lot of scratches and swirls. Look at this part right here you can see someone got a rag or something very abrasive improper washing techniques and just kind of rubbed up against it. See that’s why it’s called a hologram because if you kinda move with it, it kinda moves along with you. It just kinda dances around. It’s just a set of swirls that are in a certain pattern. Like I said it can only be revealed once you give it warm light like this one. Like this halogen. Yeah it has a lot of… and the hood has a lot of tiger striping. Look at this marring right here. Marring and burns, yeah. A lot of scratches. Big scratches. Look at this area right here, so… how do you think that is caused? Of course when you pull that pin out of the hood. Exactly! So a lot of people don’t know you need to push down on this and then pull the pin out. A lot of people, especially at shows, they just pull the pin out and just scratch it. So, I bet you that’s how that was done right there. Because the other side doesn’t have it…so…yeah… Yeah look it even has tiger striping in the middle. Of course this is when you use a very abrasive compound on the surface of a vehicle when you polish and get that tiger striping. See starting from the top going all the way to the bottom. Yeah so… looks like we have to cut into it with a little compound and maybe do a nice final polish afterwards. In order for us to correct this car, we’ll probably have to spend a few hours correcting it. We got our work cut out for us. Yeah, sounds fun. Let’s get to it. Let’s do it. Yeah! What are you doing!? I was gonna start polishing over here. Yeah that would be nice but you gotta clay first. Aww right… Here… I know how forgetful you are. Hey thanks Alex. Sometimes you make me wonder. In case you guys are wondering, i’m using a light grit claybar. This is a light blue one. This one will not damage the surface of this paint because this paint is fairly new So we want to make sure we don’t mar it so… this is specifically designed for paint jobs that are brand new or brand new vehicles less than a year old. I just finished doing a test spot on this trunk and I decided to use the white pads and our lowest abrasive compounds. The owner told me the vehicle has been recently repainted so… I have to be aware that this…I have to be aware that this clearcoat is softer than most. So I decided to go with V38 and a white pad and a V36 and a white pad. And based off of the results that I got V36 got me the results I wanted. Looks like I could get a one-step paint correction doing this. I got a lot of the deeper scratches and swirls off. And because i did use a white pad, it finished off like a nice fine polish. So it looks like that’s the winning combination. V38 although, did give a nice glossier effect. But it still had a lot of those scratches and swirls left in. So it didn’t have enough cutting power with V38 So I needed a little bit of that grit from V36 in order for me to get those proper results I wanted. So we went ahead and did a test spot on the back. Alex found that the winning combination is gonna be a white pad with V36. We have this entire vehicle to polish. So we are going to go ahead and jump on that and we’ll see you in a bit. So we just finished polishing this Mustang. It’s looking really great. As with any detail, the last step is to protect it. That’s why we went ahead and grabbed our JetSeal. This is up to 12 months of protection against UV rays… harsh elements as well as any kind of contamination. We’re gonna cover up this vehicle and we’ll see you in a bit. So our detail is almost complete and now it’s time for us to buff off the JetSeal. We let JetSeal sit on the surface for 20 minutes so it can properly bond on. We are going to buff off using our Red-Line microfiber towels. these towels are perfect for buffing off JetSeal. Just be sure before you start using these, to tear off the tag before using it. We just finished a paint correction. The last thing we need is a tag swirling it up again. It’s time to buff off.

About the Author: Michael Flood

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