How to Install a Dash Pad & Instrument Bezel in Dodge Trucks | Kevin Tetz with LMC Truck

How to Install a Dash Pad & Instrument Bezel in Dodge Trucks | Kevin Tetz with LMC Truck


Hi, I’m Kevin Tetz working with LMC
Truck to bring you some technical information and how-to videos that are
going to make your truck restoration a little bit easier. In this video we’re
going to show you how to fix a problem that’s unfortunately pretty commonplace
in these Dodge trucks that are getting a little bit of age on them, and that is
the disintegrating dashboard. Let’s take a look. Now, over time combined with
heating and cooling cycles, ultraviolet damage just absolutely takes its toll
on not only the dash, but the instrument bezel as well. Fortunately for us
LMC Truck has a great solution to both of these problems. Now this is going to
be the last dash pad you ever need to buy simply because it’s an improved
composition over the original equipment. All of the colors match the OE colors,
they’ve got great UV resistance, and the grain looks completely original. This
dash is fully loaded, it’s an all-in-one part with side vents, anti-squeak pads
and the rubber A-pillar seals. Now even though our dash pad comes fully loaded
with the anti-squeak pads in place, there is a felt anti-squeak pad kit that’s
available for your truck if you need it. Now the second part to our project is
the dash bezel itself. It matches the color, gloss, and texture. The OE comes
fully loaded, vents already installed, and has a steering column seal in place.
Because we’re completely disassembling the dash to properly install these
components and being very careful around airbag modules, I’m gonna give this
a 4 out of 5 on a difficulty scale. As far as tools you’re gonna need to do the
job, not that complicated at all. You’ll need basic hand tools- a quarter drive
socket set, ratchets and a long extension. I prefer the ratchet wrenches if
you need a box wrench and you’ll need some tools that will help you release
the multi pin clips under the dash for the wiring. Some markers in case you have to label things and you’re gonna need some light since you’re under the dash. I
like the headlights but they look a little silly. Now step one of this
project is actually under the hood disconnecting the negative terminal to
your battery because there’s an airbag module capacitor
that needs about 20 minutes of zero power to fully discharge and make it safe to
disconnect. By the way, you diesel guys make sure your second battery is
disconnected as well. You’ll need access to the airbag module, so remove the floor
console if equipped or the module cover. With the console out of the way we
remove the bracket to get access to the bolts that hold down the airbag control
module. With that unbolted it was unplugged and set out of the way. Scuff
plates and kick panels are removed for access to the dash retaining bolts. The
lower dash panel gets removed. Disconnect the multi pin plugs under the
dash that connect the dash to the cab. Loosen and remove the metal instrument panel
brace and disconnect any wiring that might be clipped to it and set it aside. Clip any zip ties holding wires to the
steering column. For models equipped with automatic transmission you must remove
the shift indicator cable before lowering the steering column and rest it
against the driver’s seat for easier removal of the dash assembly. First I’ll
unscrew the tilt lever from the column then there’s three T15 screws that hold the
two plastic covers together, pull that apart and keep up with the screws. Unplug all the wiring harnesses that are
attached to the steering column. It might be necessary to cut any zip ties that
the factory used to hold the wires in place. Zip ties should be replaced during
reinstallation. Grab the dash bezel tightly and pull
sharply towards you to release the pins and remove it. Remove the bolts from the
radio and pull it out of the dash, disconnecting the wiring. Remove the four
screws securing the HVAC control unit and gently pull it out from the dash. Now
remove the multi pin plugs, the two nuts holding the vacuum line from the cluster,
and pull free from the back of the unit itself. Here’s where you want to pay
close attention to how your temperature control cables and vacuum lines are
routed behind the dash. Push them through the wiring harnesses and out until
they’re loose underneath the dash. Removing the glovebox is easy- simply
push forward on the backside of the box pocket which pulls the pins inward and
the box comes out easily. Loosen but don’t remove the two bolts
that hold the dash in place at both sides. Here’s where the long extension
comes in handy. Remove the perimeter bolts from the top
of the dash under the windshield. These are unique length fasteners so make
notes where they came from and tag them for reassembly. Now if you’re replacing the
dash on an 02 like ours you’re gonna have to get behind the fuse panel here
and release a couple of multi pin plugs. Now it’s so tight I couldn’t even get a
camera in there to show you but I used a pick tool like this to hit the release
tab then it can be done. You’re just gonna have to stand on your head and and
breathe shallow for a little while, but trust me you can handle it. With the dash
removed and sitting on a bench top for easy access you can remove the screws
holding the defrost duct to the dash pad. The passenger airbag is next- be careful
these are expensive. Set it off to the side for reassembly.
Now the rest of the upper dash screws get removed and the dash is separated
from the lower dash framework. Since we had them, we decided to put the anti-rattle pads right over top of the original ones just to be sure. Now, the
new LMC dash gets installed using the included hardware. Now this is one of the
biggest reasons to do this with the dash assembly out of the truck, so you can
properly align the screw holes on the back side because you can’t get to them
with the dash in the truck. This properly aligns your defroster ducts and makes
sure that there’s a nice seal and you’re not going to lose the defrost function.
It’s the proper way to do it. The passenger airbag module goes in, gets
bolted into place at the bottom and pushed back in slots on the top side. Don’t forget your glovebox striker or
the airbag module plug which plugs into the harness on the dash frame before it
goes in the truck. Okay, so the dash is in the truck, set into place, but still set
back from the firewall. This way we’ve got room to get in behind the glovebox
open, we can plug in our connectors, reroute our massive cables for the radio
controls, radio antennae, and the accessories that this guy has on his
truck. After reconnecting all the dash wiring we
brace the dash, install the two screws on the left and right side at the bottom,
then pushing on the dash, pivoting it upward on the bottom screws, screw it into place
at the five locations on the top of the dash pad. Now you can reconnect the steering
column harnesses and the original steering column itself
gets bolted back into place. Making notes when you disassemble your dash about
wire routing, cable ties and grounding straps and braces really pays off when
you’re putting things back together. Take the time to take notes at
disassembly, you’ll thank me later. The steering column covers have small clips
that hold them together, as well as screws. Be patient reinstalling these. Now
the tilt lever can go back into place as well as the fuse panel cover. The audio
head unit goes back into place and the HVAC control unit gets reassembled and
reinstalled. Now it’s safe to reinstall the airbag
module under the dash and the bracket that holds it down securely. The new dash
bezel is simple to install. Carefully line up the spring clips to the dash and
then gently push, maybe with the heel of your hand, until it’s seated all the way
around. There it is, wow that’s nice. Reconnect your battery cables and test your lights and
switches before hitting the road. The new dash fits well, looks original, and along
with the new instrument bezel brings back the interior of this truck to a
showroom-new look. There you go. Restoring the interior of your Dodge truck just
got easier and we hope that we’ve shown you that with some simple hand tools and
investment of your time and some well-made parts from LMC Truck, well, now
you know how to install the last dashboard your Dodge is ever gonna need.
Thanks for watching, I’m Kevin Tetz.

About the Author: Michael Flood

63 Comments

  1. Just ordered a dash pad for my 01'. Already replaced the Dash in my 99' with a Geno's Garage. The fit was good but it comes unpainted. I spent forever trying to find the factory Mist Grey paint. When I ordered it online it never came in the mail with the dash. I called every company I could find that carries it and they all said it was out of stock. Went to a Dodge dealership to find it and they said that the paint was discontinued so there was no option for me to get it exactly like factory so it's a shade off. It fits decently but slightly rattles. Going to do it right the first time with this one for my 01'. Best of all it's already paint matched so no headache trying to find the color and prime / paint it myself.

  2. Another great video done by Kevin Tetz! Does Kevin still do videos for Eastwood?
    If you are replacing your dash pad this would also be a great time to replace your heater core and A/C evaporator.

  3. Couldn’t you just pull the bezel off and then life the dash over top and bolt it down it seems extra to have to take the whole thing out

  4. Just skipped right over the destroyed lower dash. Of course they are only available through OEM, so probably didnt want to advertise for them.

  5. I did this job on my 01 dodge ram I did the same as the video. After I put my truck back together I started experiencing electronical problems that wasn't there before like check gages light and turn signals not working right. Can anyone help

  6. Listen to some Dean Marten music while doing this and you will do fine .. also do it in just your underwear ..good luck fellas..

  7. Why so damn much for some fucking plastic smh 279 for top flimsy peace and 179 for the Bezel wat a money gimmick I bet the shit dont even cost 45 bucks for both including the labor cosignering its machine made I'd just put a 20 dollar cover over mine and hope to find one cheaper at a junk yard or a pull apart lmao

  8. Throw a new heater core in there while you're at it. You'll be doing all that shit again when you have to replace it.

  9. Ok, just did this to my 2001 2500 using the LMC dash and bezel. Be extremely careful in handling the lower dash core – you can see this one is broke at about the 5:00 mark, mine was broke much worse from years of being exposed. I had to glue wood in for structure and then glue the remain cracks back together. This core is NOT available anywhere and is discontinued by OEM, and any used ones are going to be garbage as well. Best not to destroy yours as much as possible, as all the controls mount to it. It's criminal that Dodge didn't recall this junk, or offer an upgrade. I will not pull my dash again, as I don't think it will survive it. Also, this is not an easy project, you'll need patience to deal with the crumbling dash and all the connections that this vid glosses over. The positives of the project is the LMC dash does look good and fit well. It is slightly different color, but that is an age and exposure factor more than anything and a casual glance will never know it. I've had this truck since new, it's nice to have a proper dash back in it.

  10. I recently purchased and install a new LMC dash pad. I found that if you remove the three screws the hold the dash pad vent tubes to the dash frame ,( they can be accessed from under the dash) you can remove the old dash pad and vent tube as one assembly. Transfer the vent tubes to the new dash pad and reinstall. No need to remove the complete dash, just pivot it out toward the seat a little. Lowering the steering column and removing the passenger air bag are required.
    The LMC dash pad fits perfect. No squeaks or rattles even on rough gravel roads. I also purchased a new LMC grill for my truck, again a perfect fit. Both items are as good as OEM Dodge parts or better. Very satisfied.

  11. Shouldn't the Vehicle Identifcation Number tag be transferred to the new dash before you put in the new one in?

  12. I just completed this on my '01. One big tip; I cracked both pillar posts when I rotated the dash up during reinstallation. You may want to remove those beforehand. They are pretty brittle so that could break them too. It's a tough call. There are lots of them on Ebay. Other than that, the toughest part is keeping the eggshell dash sub-frame from falling apart. I had to rebuild a few small areas. Remove cracked pieces slowly. Make sure they are unscrewed and don't push the screwdriver in too hard. Try to support from the back. The air ducts and LMC dash hold it all together pretty well so long as you put in all of the screws. I installed a new heater core even though the old one was fine. I also put in a new stereo. I'm afraid if I have to pull off the bezel again the lower half of the old dash may come with it. I recommend removing the entire dash so you can use every fastener location from behind. Also you can replace all of the disintegrating weather stripping around the A/C box and various other places and clean out all of the years of dirt and many old dash fragments rattling around. Overall, the finished product looks super sweet. I'm having more fun driving my old Dodge than my 2017 F150 FX4.

  13. good video kevin I congratulate you I have a question I just bought a dash in lmc truks and when disconnecting the airbag I have it reprogrammed and if that is how it is done

  14. DAMN! Every Dodge I see including mine has that same torn from seat problem. Might as well replace the heater core while you got the dash off.

  15. You did great job buddy but I don’t wanna try it by myself!! Hey could send me more information about dash because I have a Dodge Ram exactly with that dash but it’s gasoline 1999 but it’s it’s break also the other part where goes the dash screwed this it’s my personal email [email protected] it’s should be great if you send me more information about this;:))

  16. Is this similar to what's needed done for an 03' Dodge Ram 1500? I've bought the new Dash and thinking of doing this myself this weekend but need a bit more info because I cannot seem to find a video for my specific year.

  17. i pulled my dash on a 98 2500 and the underlying plastic frame was broken in a few places. i am glad i pulled the dash out. the insulation under the dash is cheap rubber over old musty sponge foam. i am putting in new insulation and soundproofing under the old dash first and cleaning all the incredible 20 years of dirt because of no cabin filter. doing a cabin filter mod as well from genos garage by doing some of my own mods as they dont make one for a 98 that i can find. in the end, it should work out fine I hope. there is no way the guy in this video pulled that dash out by himself. i had to get my neighbor to help me carry it out of the truck so i didnt damage it any further. its made like crap so be careful if you do this. but in the end i think it will be worth it. i gutted the entire cab while i was at it to put in new insulation and soundproofing from LMC truck, and new carpet.

  18. Really you do not have to remove the dash wow this guy did a lot more then he had to 🤣😂🤣😂

  19. What is the lower panel called with the glove box and that runs down the bottom it's super hard to find apparently I have a 96

  20. ya'll need to make a complete dash replacement kit that includes the lower portions, knee bolster, cup holder/cubby hole, and glove box. That whole dash assembly is crap!

  21. 4:52 the upper a/c control mount broke off i see 🤣🤦🏽‍♂️ lmc should come up with something to fix that a/c controller stereo and headlight switch mounts

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