How To: Install an Aftermarket AquaRite Main PCB

How To: Install an Aftermarket AquaRite Main PCB


Rob: Hello, Inyo fans. I’m Rob, and today we’re going to walk you through the steps of replacing the main PCB on a Hayward AquaRite control panel using the Pureline replacement board. The Pureline board is an aftermarket and a more economical solution to replacing the original Hayward main PCB. So let’s jump right in. Alright the first thing you want to do before you get started is make sure the power is off. So it’s typically a breaker that controls your pool equipment, and I just want to make sure that’s off. And when it’s off, you don’t see any lights illuminated or the LED screen will be off. Next thing you’ll do is you’ll remove the flow switch cable and the cell cable. The next thing you’ll need to do is get a 5/16 socket wrench and remove these two screws. The next thing you’ll do is just lift the cover right off. Alright and this is the display board, and this will lift right off of the main board. Alright, next we’re going to remove the two power lines located in the lower left hand corner with a Phillips head screwdriver. Alright and then with a needle nose pliers, you’ll remove the blue, white, violet, gray, red, black, orange and yellow cable. These should pop off pretty easy. Alright now we’ll grab the 5/16 socket and remove these two screws that hold the board in. Lift the board out. And we’ll get these out of the way. Here’s the Pureline board. I’m going to pop that right back in. You’ll see a couple of holes here that you want to line up this part. Alright, then we’ll secure the board back in place with that 5/16 socket wrench. Alright and when you’re tightening them down, they don’t have to be super tight, just snug. As you get some resistance, that’d be good enough. All right so we’ll start to attach some of the wires back to the board. We’ll start with this red and black wire – On the original board you’ll notice that the red and black was a little bit higher in the upper right hand corner but they moved it down here. Alright, and we’ll do the orange and the yellow cable. On the original board, these were located over here in the lower right hand corner but now on the new board, they’re on the upper left hand corner. So you have to feed them over here. Alright so now we’ll connect the gray, the violet, the white, and the blue wire. And there’s labeling on the board that tell you that the gray goes here, violet goes here, white goes here and the last one you’ll notice that on the new board it says black but the cable is blue, but the blue one will go to the black prong here. Alright the next steps will involve reconnecting the power lines but first you have to reinstall the jumpers, actually two jumpers will be included with the new board for 230 volt which is probably the most common out there. You just need one jumper and that will go on the middle two screws there, for 115 you’d use two jumpers. One would go on the first two screws there and the second one would go down on the three and four spots. Now the original board was numbered, one, two, three, four – there’s no numbers on this board but — I just remembered, one, two, three, four, for more wiring configurations and the jumper locations you can check the inside door of your panel and that will tell you as well. Then you want to take the power lines and connect them to the number one and the number four spot and either wire can go to either spot, so in this case we’ll take the white and put it on the one. Just make sure all the screws are tight. Coming down Coming down here at the bottom one. Alright and the board’s all wired. Alright so now we’re going to pop the display board back in place. You’ll notice that there’s four holes around it, these four plastic prongs and the most important thing is the board has these thin metal bars that go up and you want to make sure those match up with these holes when you put it in. Alright, and press it on until you feel it snap into place. Okay now we’re just going to pop the cover back in place, line up the slots there, press this down. I had to do a little adjusting just to make everything fit in its place and once everything’s in the right spot we’ll reconnect our screws here. Alright, we’ll plug the flow switch cable back in its place – see if we can line it up properly till you hear it click and then we’ll plug the cell back in its place. Okay, at this point you can go ahead and turn the power back on and when it’s on you’ll notice that the display should light up, you’ll get a power light and it may say “No flow” if your pump’s not running, so that’s normal. There’s still a couple of things that we need to do when you get a new board. The first thing will be to select your cell size and if you don’t know your cell size you can actually look on the side of your cell and in this case it’s a T-Cell-15. Alright now you have to press the diagnostics button eight times until you see the cell size appear. At this point you’ll take the switch from auto to super chlorinate back to auto to switch the size. And we have it in T-15 so then you just move back to auto and it’s set. Alright, chances are the new board is going to come set on the metric scale and what you want to do is switch it back to ‘parts per million’ so what you have to do is press the diagnostics button five times and you’ll see 0.0 there so you just switch it from auto to super chlorinate, back to auto and there it’s set for parts per million. And that wraps up the installation of our Pureline AquaRite board. If you have further questions feel free to email us at uploadinyopools.com or give us a call at — What’s the number Matt? Matt: 8773726038. Alright it’s been a pleasure. If you want more videos, check out our YouTube channel, subscribe, other than that have a great day. [music]

About the Author: Michael Flood

5 Comments

  1. The component that almost always blows is the inrush current limiter/thermistor (looks like a black round disk) a part you can get for a few bux, it most cases its very easy to take the board out de-solder the damaged part and solder in the new one.

  2. my display is reading "HOT" hayward said to replace the t-cell so i did but its still displaying hot. any advise?

  3. My screen shows the salt reading but no lights. When I first turn the power on the red No flow flashes then green generating light only comes on for 10 seconds and then all lights go out

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