How to Install New Billet Hood Hinges on 1967-1972 Chevy Trucks – Kevin Tetz with LMC Truck

How to Install New Billet Hood Hinges on 1967-1972 Chevy Trucks – Kevin Tetz with LMC Truck

Hi, I’m Kevin Tetz working with LMC Truck
to bring you some technical information and great how-to videos designed to help
you out with your truck restoration project. In this video we’re going to be
working on a ’67-’72 C10 platform and we’re going to address an issue that
sometimes gets overlooked in a restoration, well at least until the hood is up, and that issue is worn out original hood hinges. If you’ve ever
had to do this you know what I’m talking about. It could be just a little bit
embarrassing at a car show, if not dangerous, if your panels bump together
and chip your expensive paint. Panel gaps between the hood and the fenders are
some of the most observed transitions on any vehicle. Sloppy hood hinges can make
adjusting these gaps almost impossible. Now one of the main culprits of a sloppy
hood hinge is actually in the design of the hinge itself.
These steel bushings right here, eventually these just wear out over time
and they make the hinge just about impossible to adjust with the fasteners
that you have. Now even though there’s not a bushing kit available for these
hinges LMC Truck offers almost every other nut, bolt and component for these
vehicles and many other truck platforms, and the good news is when it comes to
replacing hinges, now you’ve got some incredible options. Of course you can
always go back with a quality replacement original styled hinge. Even
replacement springs are available and they offer a nice looking e-coat primer
and will give you back some adjustability in your hood, as well as a
nice under hood appearance. Now these replacement hinges will look great with
a new coat of paint under your hood but if you really want to step up your game
when it comes to replacement hood hinges check out these options. These billet
aluminum hood hinges are made from 6061 T6 billet and these come polished to a
mirror finish. They feature gas struts for a long life of easy hood opening, large
sealed bearings, stainless steel fasteners for a long life, and precision
manufacturing for smooth operation. Now polished, cross-drilled and machined
billet is not the only option that you have
with these hinges. These black machine versions give you all kinds of style
options, all with the same precision and quality construction as the other
versions. Now there’s a couple more features that I want to point out. First,
all these hinges have slotted holes that give you a greater range of
adjustability when you’re installing them, and just the design of these hinges
dictates that you won’t get the wobble that the original hinges are famous for.
And if you’re going for full custom on your truck that precision allows you for
tighter panel gaps and a better precision fit all through your build.
Each kit comes with its own set of stainless steel mounting hardware. Now as
far as a difficulty scale goes, well, it’s not that difficult to bolt in hood
hinges. It can be time-consuming and frustrating, but it’s not difficult.
That’s a different thing. And as far as working by yourself, that
kind of presents its own challenge. It’s always nice to have a buddy to help you
out when you’re lifting the hood on and off, but we’ll show you how to get around
that as well. And just a few simple hand tools will get this job done. You’re
gonna need a 3/8th socket set and standard sockets, some towels to protect your
paint, a 5/16th T-handle or hex head socket, and some penetrating oil and shop
towels to help you clean up. Now since we’re dealing with new stainless steel
fasteners we’re going to use some anti-seize so we don’t gall up the
threads, and we need a way to mark the location of our original threads and
this will do just fine. Now the reason you want to mark your hinges in the
first place is to get you back in the ballpark. Even if your hood’s a little bit
out of alignment this gets you a nice starting place at least where you don’t
have to completely readjust everything. Now masking tape works great around the
outside edge of the hinges if you don’t have a bunch of crusty grease, and if the
tape will stick fresh paint works great. If you don’t, these ink markers do a nice
job of marking where the outside perimeter of the hinges goes and when
you’re done you can wipe them off with a bit of solvent later on. This is important- remove the striker pin
from your hood. The latch can guide the hood into a different direction and
possibly damage the paint. Removing the latch helps you see exactly where the
hood falls naturally. There’s one more thing I want to show you about these
factory hood hinges. This is not something that you will see with the
billet aluminum hinges. Look at this hood wobble. That corner on that fender could
be really bad, really bad. I’m glad to say goodbye to that forever. We’re gonna do
some homemade pads between our panels and this is just to hold the hood up
while I’m doing one hinge at a time. This is a prop rod that I’ve had in my
toolbox for a long time doing bodywork but you don’t have to have this tool. You
can use a piece of a broom handle, dowling or PVC pipe as long as it will
hold the hood up and support the weight while you’re doing one hinge, then the
other one. Work smarter, not harder. Some penetrating spray on all of the
fasteners is a great idea to help with disassembly. Even spraying the night
before will allow the fluid to creep into the threads and it just makes
things easier. Protecting the paint is self-explanatory. The hood is heavy
and the pads cushion it just in case it hits the fenders or the cowl. I never like to use impact tools on body
bolts. I always like to feel the tension, the resistance and possible cross
threads by hand first. If I have to I’ll use impact tools but I always want to
know the condition of the thread, so it’s something that takes a little longer, but
in my opinion it’s good advice to use hand tools on fasteners like this. Now
this goes to the museum or the scrap heap. More penetrating fluid on the
threads will help and if you felt any binding on the bolts at all chase the
threads with new hardware just to be safe. Ours felt good and backed right out. It’s always a good idea to use an anti-seize lubricant when using stainless steel bolts threaded into metal threads. The dissimilar metals can sometimes promote
galling of the threads and it feels just like a cross thread but it’s nearly
impossible to remove. Thread your new hardware in by hand. This
allows you to carefully install the hinge while checking for binding or
cross threads. Here’s where your witness marks come
into play. They just let you know where to install the new hinges and give you a
good place to start adjusting from. Alright, so now we got all the
fasteners in. Now we can start to fine-tune around our existing marks, put
the other side on, see where we’re at. With the hood snugged up on the first
hinge the second is pretty much exactly the same procedure. Now there’s a very
good reason why I didn’t want to have the striker or the latch in place when
I’m bringing the hood down. I don’t want it to pull it out of alignment and
possibly jam the hood into my fenders. It doesn’t matter for our truck but if
yours is shiny paint you’ll thank me for that. Now what you want to do is ease it down really slowly. Boy, those are smooth
hinges. Alright. Now you take a look and I’m seeing a giant gap right there,
but over here, well, it’s overlapping and it’s touching.
That’s why I didn’t want that latch in place because it would have bruised my
paint, like that. Okay, so now we got some adjustment to do. So I’m too tight
here and it’s wide on that side and narrow on this side so that tells me the
whole hood has to turn that way. But you got to think about it differently with
the hood up because the hood has to go up on this side instead of forward- so
you got to think about it as it opens up. Think about your geometry lessons in
high school. I’m going to loosen this off while I’m supporting the corner of the
hood. I’m just gonna try and bump it. There, okay, it moved maybe an eighth of
an inch on this hinge on the top. Snug it back down and we’ll try it again. Okay, so
that helped that gap but as you can see it’s low there to the cowl piece, our
gap’s about okay but it’s low. So we’re gonna remember that and take a look at
the front. Okay, so we’re better here. We’re at the
right gap on the backside. We can’t bring it forward anymore but it still needs to
come away so that means it’s got to go back on the other side. Back off these two on the top. We only
have to pay attention to one axis at a time. Oh, that was it. Wow. We went about an eighth of an inch or even maybe 3/16. We’re gonna snug that up and see what we got. Alrighty. So right here no
resistance, no contact. Sixteenth of an inch there and we’re still 3/8 here so
I’m going to ask a little bit more out of that adjustment on the backside of
that hinge on the passenger side. On the top. Following me? Sliding the rear corner of the hood back with the top hinge bolts pulls the hood gap open on the front of
the driver’s side of the opposite side. And adjusting only one axis at a time
lets you sneak up on the total fitment of your panel.
Okay, now we’re looking pretty darn good here. This is consistent all the way back
to the back of the hood. It’s still a little bit narrow. Let’s look at the
other side. On this side, same thing, it’s parallel front to rear. We’re in good
shape except for the fact that this gap is larger than the driver’s side gap, so
we have to move the entire hood back this way just a taste.
I’ve got another piece of tape here just for reference and since I’m okay front
to rear, I think, we’re gonna mark this off, just to make sure you know where we can go back to just in case we slip. I’m also gonna put a mark there, contrasting mark right there. Now these hard-coated hinges, it’s easy to get the ink markers off of it so
don’t sweat it, This is just a nice alignment tool. Okay, so we’re gonna do
this one bolt at a time and the goal is to move the hinge over to the driver’s
side which will bring the hood over to the passenger side. I’ve taped off my pry
bar so I can carefully adjust the hood without damaging the aluminum. Oops,
gravity still works, and we are going to loosen the top bolt. Give that a gentle push. Alright, now that doesn’t look bad. That’s, that’s just about right, that’s about three
sixteenths. So we’re narrowing it down. And with the
hood closed you could still see it’s not bad but it’s a little low on the hood
side. So dealing with one axis at a time we’ve got our hood gap side to side, now we can lift this hinge up at the back bolt and get our level up what matches the
cowl. I want to make sure the front one’s snug, they’re not super tight. And the back two need to be reasonably
loose so it can pivot off of this front angle, pivot the whole thing up. Pivoting
the rear of the hinge upward brings the back of the hood up and slightly forward
at the same time. That’s probably more than enough. That’s what I need to lock
it down onto. I’m just going to snug the top one, we’ll see where we’re at. No, I think we went a little too far.
Alright, back up that action. And I’m just gonna push up on the hood. Yep, and just roll that hinge back. It’s a slow process aligning body panels but it’s
really important to take your time and make sure the action of opening and
closing your panels is without binding or interference. In our case before the
bodywork phase. Setting gaps before bodywork is a not-so-secret secret of
custom builders everywhere. Just like fitting your doors with new weather
seals before the bodywork phase gives you a perfect fit on the sides of the
vehicle when you’re done, getting your hood gaps as close as possible before
welding, fillers, blocking, and priming is so much easier with a good set of
precision hinges in place. I’m really happy with how this hood fits. It’s about
a sixteenth of an inch tighter on the driver’s side than it is the passenger
side, but you know, everything is parallel side to side and the hood gap across the
back is nice and even, and once I put my striker back in I can cheat that hood a
tiny little bit to make it a perfect fit left to right without stressing these
hinges out. One last thing before we wrap up. If you
use a little bit of acetone or some paint thinner you can get your magic
marker reference markings off easily. It looks like a brand new set of absolutely
gorgeous billet hood hinges. We hope this video has shown you that
you’ve got tons of options when it comes to upgrading your factory worn out hood
hinges, and we’ve shown you that if you take one axis at a time and think your
way through the process, realigning your hood is something you can easily do
yourself. And thanks to LMC Truck you’ve now got some great options for custom
hood hinges. I’m Kevin Tetz, thanks for watching.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Nice looking hinges, but I'd rather go with factory, as it's a lot less adjustment (and I'm just too impatient!). Love that year C10!!

  2. Thank you for showing everything even mistakes,This is what more people need to do on their vids,Thanks so much very great videos

  3. omg what a waste of time and money, and BTW if a person is at the point where they can buy these they sure as shit don't need some salesmans video on how to install them.

  4. great info on the hood alignment. Definitely gonna work on mine this weekend. Diggin the billet hinges, too. I dig carefully selected high dollar parts on an old rusty truck.

  5. The problem is there isn't a simple decently made stock replacement hinge out there. I got a set of the cheap repos and they're impossible to make fit properly, and one has already bent within 2 months of gentle use. I'm not spending $600 on billet hinges that would look ridiculous on my beater hot rod truck, just as they do on this truck… If you guys and Brothers are so into helping us restore our trucks, quit pumping out these terrible parts to sell us and make us some quality parts at an affordable price. I don't want to put cheap junk on my truck, but it's not a 75K restore.

  6. Really great video. I have appreciated Kevin's knowledge and explanations for a longtime. Those billet hinges are beautiful and work well, but I'm going for more of the stock look with mine and so will probably go with the stock replacements. Tempting, though.

  7. Installing 9 pieces on 72 on each side right now, from cab braces all the way out to new rockers, owner ordered all pieces from LMC, not one piece fit properly, not one, all had heavy massaging to make work, should say kinda similar to original.

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