How to paint radial engine. 1/48 R-2800-31 Eduard – F6F hellcat – Great Guide

How to paint radial engine. 1/48 R-2800-31 Eduard – F6F hellcat – Great Guide

Hello, fellow modelers. In today’s tutorial, I would like to show you how to paint a radial engine. In the first part of this video, I compare the original plastic engine from the kit with this nice resin engine made by Eduard. I don’t even have to say how much detailed it is. Always put on a respirator when you saw or sand resin parts. It will prevent you from inhaling the harmful dust. I scrape away the mold seam lines and other exceeding mold pieces using a sharp blade. I assemble all engine parts using a super glue. Here you can see the great advantage of resin engine. The manufacturer already included photo edge parts with all necessary wires. Here is a small comparison of the resin engine with the plastic one. At the first sight, they seem incomparable, however, if you don’t plan having opened engine cover, then a plastic engine is quite good enough. I just make some little modifications. I restore engravings on the engine cylinders using a razor saw and then I assemble everything together. Some kits, for example those produced by Accurate Miniatures company, sometimes have plastic parts with molded engine wires. For a model in 1/48 scale, they are very thick, but I assume, it good enough. With this bare engine without wires, I have no choice but to glue the wires to the engine myself. I cut several lead wires of 0.2 mm diameter and glue them on the engine. It takes some time since each cylinder has two wires. When the glue hardens, I simply bend the wires and cut them to precise lengths. This simple detail takes the engine’s look to the next level. At the end, a small presentation and comparison. Two middle engines are from the same kit, but one of them has added wires. It is quite obvious that resin engine is always better, but you must pay extra money for it, and sometimes it does not have much sense if you don’t plan to use it properly. In this case, I am going to use the resin engine, since I already have it. Ok, let’s get started to paint this little beast. I do not use a primer because I need a very thin layer of paint. The silver color is very shiny, but after one layer of varnish, it will be less pronounced. I paint the exhausts with rust shade. You can mix your own rust shade from brown and red color. I use Tamia ultra finish pointed brush, when I paint such small details. The rust color on exhausts still doesn’t look very realistic, so I put there some rust pigments. Dry pigments create very nice and realistic texture. I do not need to use varnish because I have the base painted with acrylic colors and I was using enamel wash. Now, I have to paint all the remaining details and add some weathering effects. And so it is finished. Now it remains only to start the engine. 🙂

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. No kamaráde ty si strašný frajer veru! Úplná dokonalosť ! Znova nemám slov… proste vždy onemiem keď pozerám ako to dokážeš dokonale vyšperkovať. Och kiež by moje modely vyzerali aspoň z polovice tak dobre … čo z polovice aj z osminy by mi to stačilo 😀
    Fakt krásna práca! Neskutočne super!

  2. Davide bomba jako vždy. Na každé tvoje video se moc těším.Vracím se k modelařině po skoro 25 letech a s úžasem sleduju,kam se to všechno posunulo. každopádně díky za inspiraci,to je studijního materiálu na celý život 🙂

  3. Hey. Nooiiicce! What color(s) did you use for the metal on the prop? So realistic. I've never seen such a good cobalt blue steel.

  4. Just amazing. Such skill; it's truly a pleasure to watch. Thank you very much for inspiring me and (this might sound cheesy ..) giving me hope in the human spirit.

  5. Hey PLASMO: Just wanted to let you know that I really enjoy your build videos. I have picked up some good model building tips from them. Thank you very much for sharing your model building skills!

  6. Hi, I am sorry, again a question 🙂 I've bought an airbrush just a few weeks ago but I have a problem with it. every time before I start with painting, I spray with water to clear the nozle and remove any things I don't want to have in my paint, but when I'm going to paint, I get waves like you have said in your video. Is the water the disturber? how do you do that? I hope you can help me. Greetings from Holland! Raymond van Rijn(I don't have my own youtube channel 🙁

  7. oh, a bit more explanation;-) I have tried everything (changing pressure, amount of thinner etc) and I am sure that is not the problem, it is for all when I spray close to the model so I'm not able to spray details etc

  8. Till now I have used vallejo model air and model color which are very thin, so I have to thin them in ratio 1:10 till a maximum of 1:5 that depends on how thin the paint is. I have tried 1:2 but that is ways to thin. I have also tamiya but not tried yet:-(

  9. eh, I mean with 1:10 is 1 part thinner to 10 parts paint, I use standard vallejo thinner for Airbrush. but my dad thinks it is the water I use before painting is the problem. Do you first clean your Airbrush by spraying water through it? (also after I've fully cleaned the Airbrush with Airbrush cleaner because the water will take away all the excess cleaner and vaseline)

  10. vím že si čech proto se chci zeptat jestly se dají někde sehnat již sestavené modely letadel nebo ještě lépe kovové modely chci ze totiž začít zbírat ale nechci se s tim takhle paplat. takže kdyby něco takového bylo tak kdyžtak napiš jméno stránky na které bych to mohl najít předem děkuji

  11. Beautiful work! The only think I could possibly suggest is that the intake pipes from the supercharger might have been slightly discolored from heat, but most likely a blueish discoloration, whereas the exhaust pipes would have definitely had rust. Also (I once worked overhauling radial engines, specifically the ignition systems) the high-tension spark leads from the magnetos are a heavy, grease-resistant black rubber.

    Other then that, awesome work!!

  12. great work, man, is amazing. could you do A video, teaching us how make that effect "old" in the propeller?

  13. I have been building plastic models now for 52 years I started when I was 10. I never had the confidence to paint small parts such as bolts on a 1/48. Watching all of your videos inspired me. I got a cheap fine point brush and just dived in. To my surprise I’m actually pretty good at it. I would have never tried unless I had watched all your great videos – OLD DOGS CAN LEARN NEW TRICKS. Thanks David keep making great videos and I’ll keep watching them.

  14. Resin engine looks fantastic and far more detail than the plastic version. Love the rust effects on the exhausts.

  15. I think that only exhaust pipes must be rusty and i usually add to silver colour a little bit white so the cylinders becomes more real(its are like light grey in reality if aircraft was in long service).Думаю впускные патрубки должны быть либо серые либо черные.

  16. Hi ! why you dont' use small coreless motor to make real roation and keep pushing modeling realism ? 😀

  17. question; do you anneal the photo etch wires before installing? This is heating the brass to make it easier to bend. Adding explaination only because I know English is not your first language.

  18. You do awesome work. Quick question. Is there a way to get a realistic look from an aircraft that's unpainted, like the B 29 or American Airlines DC 10? To me simply painting it silver never looks near to the real look and I would like to build a model of an American Airlines DC 10 that looks super realistic for my father as he retired from American as a DC 10ER Captain. Thought it would make a great gift he would really like to display next to the photo of his very last landing in that aircraft. Any help or ideas from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

  19. i love ur videos and i think u are a great model builder. I admire that u have so many subs just for a model building chanel. The only thing is i don't understand a thing u say to be honest

  20. Very nice tutorial, with lots of good tips for even making the kit part look good!
    Oh…WHAT kind of drill are you using here(2:58)!??

  21. Well done, again. I envy your steady hands, my hand/eye coordination isn't what it used to be, but you inspire me to try harder and be patient. Good music too! Bruce

  22. Omg. Was boring at start (My first time here). But like a good book it got more and more exiting. And what a result, amazing job 🙂

  23. having been a radial engine mech in the service for 4 years I never saw any exhaust pipe that rusty….dark sooty but never that rusty

  24. I had the great pleasure to work on one of the real ones and test bench it. Clicked cause I’m building a 1/16 Camel and the Britannia casting is sub par so I’m looking at ideas to mask the seams and bring some life to it. Thanks!

  25. I have bought the resin kit and extras for the boeing 17 g cant wait to do the painting…Thank You for this helps lots…CHEERS

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