Jeep Wrangler JK Mammoth 2 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Leveling Kit w/ End Links Review & Install

Hey guys, so today I’m here with the Mammoth
2-inch Front 1-inch Rear Leveling Kit with End Links, fitting all 2007 to 2008 JK Wranglers. So this is gonna be for the JK owner who’s
looking to create a better stance on their Jeep while also adding a little bit of height
at a very affordable price point. So this leveling kit by Mammoth is going to
be a very easy way to gain a little bit of height on your Wrangler. Obviously, you have two inches in the front
and one-inch in the rear and that’s going to open up that wheel well for larger wheels
and tires without replacing a bunch of components and getting very involved in your suspension. Now this is also gonna do a great job at leveling
out the rake in your hood. So out of the factory, since your engine is
heavier than the rear of your Jeep, it makes the front end sag a little bit and this is
gonna take that away and create a very aggressive stance and make the Jeep look a whole lot
better by only adding a couple of spacers. Now this is gonna be a very bare-bones kit. This is the only gonna consist of four spacers
and two end links in the front to accommodate for that extra height. So this is perfect for somebody who doesn’t
wanna get too involved in their suspension or doesn’t need to do a lot of restoration. They’re just looking for those key benefits
to add a little bit of height and fit a larger wheel and tire. So speaking of tires a 33-inch tire is what
this lift kit is going to accommodate and it’s gonna fill out that wheel well very nicely
while also leaving you a lot of room in the wheel well for a little bit of articulation
if you wanna do any lighter trails or any fire trails. So as far as 35s go, I would definitely not
recommend them for this lift kit because you may be able to bolt them on, you may not have
any rubbing from wheel lock to wheel lock but you are going to have some tire defender
contact. If you do hit a bump or try to articulate
in any way on any trail or even any fire trails, you will have that contact so it’s definitely
not recommended. So I would stick to a 33-inch tire. So as far as price goes, this is going to
be very affordable, like I mentioned before, at roughly $120 and that’s because what’s
included in the kit. Now when you take a look at lift kits, usually
the price is based off of what’s included in the kit so if you have more components
in a lift kit or a leveling kit, is going to be at a higher price point and that’s exactly
why this is so affordable. So less expensive options that you may be
seeing on the page are usually gonna consist of less components in the kit. So they may not come with end links in the
leveling kit, they may be for smaller spacers or they may only come with the front two spacers
to level out that weight distribution. Now, on the other hand, more expensive options
are usually gonna come with more components. So you may see shock adaptors in the kit. You may see all four end links instead of
just the front two. You may even see shocks which is going to
up that price point and once you get past leveling kits, you are starting to get into
those lift kits that are going to be a little bit more involved in your suspension which
is also going to raise that price point. So, overall, I think this is a perfect middle
ground. This gives you everything that you need to
get some added height on your Wrangler. Not only are you just leveling out that rake,
you are also adding a little bit of height for those key benefits that I mentioned before
at a very affordable price point. So I definitely think that this is worth that
price and it’s going to get the job done. So install is gonna be a two out of three
wrenches on the difficulty meter. This is going to be a pretty simple install
as far as leveling kits and lift kits go. It’s probably gonna take you about four hours
to get the job done in your driveway with some pretty basic hand tools. So speaking of the install, let’s jump into
that now. Tools that I used for this install were a
series of impact wrenches, a 21-millimeter, 18-millimeter and 10-millimeter deep socket,
an 18-millimeter swivel, a six-millimeter Allen socket, five-inch extension, a dead
blow, a 19-millimeter and 18-millimeter open-ended or box wrench, a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and
a trim removal tool. So the first step of this install is to get
your Jeep up in the air. We’re gonna be starting in the front. So if you are on a jack and jack stands, you
wanna make sure that you jack up the front and chock those rear wheels and then you can
go ahead and take off the wheels and then our next step is gonna be to support our axle. So we’re up on a lift. I have two pole jacks here and we’re gonna
go ahead do that now. So then our next step is gonna be to remove
our sway bar end links. So with an 18-millimeter socket on the nut
side and a 18-millimeter wrench on the bolt head side, I’m gonna go ahead and remove that
bottom bolt. So since we are replacing these end links,
what I’m gonna do is completely take them off. So the top stud needs to be held in place
by a 19-millimeter wrench and then we can use that same 18-millimeter deep socket to
take off that nut. So for the passenger side lower end link bolt,
I am gonna be using a swivel since this is a tight area on the bolt head and on the other
side, I’m using that same 18-millimeter wrench. We can do the same thing for the top with
that 19-millimeter wrench and the 18-millimeter deep socket. So what we’re gonna do next is remove the
lower shock bolt. We just need to disconnect this from the axle
so we can drop our axle. I’m gonna be using an 18-millimeter wrench
on the nut side and that 18-millimeter swivel that we used up front on the passenger side
for the bolt head. Now if the bolt doesn’t come out right away,
you just have to put a little bit of pressure on that axle, kinda tinker with the height
and then it should come out. Then we can just repeat that process on the
other side. So what we can start to do is lower down our
axle now. You wanna make sure that it comes down evenly
and then we can go ahead and remove our spring. Now you wanna also keep an eye on your brake
lines at this point. You don’t wanna max them out but they should
be okay since we don’t necessarily need to go all the way down. So we can do at this point is just go ahead
and remove our spring. So I do wanna drop our axle just a little
bit lower to make it a little bit more easy to get the springs in with the spacer itself. So what I’m gonna do is disconnect the axle
side of our track bar. I have a 21-millimeter deep socket and a half-inch
impact. I’m gonna go ahead and remove that lower bolt. So once that’s removed, you can grab the flag
nut that fell off on the back and we can disconnect the top bracket on our brake line. So I just don’t wanna damage this brake line
while we’re dropping the axle so I’m gonna take a 10-millimeter socket and remove this
bolt that’s holding the bracket to the frame and we can install that once the spacer kit
is on. So that’ll give us just a little bit more
slack. Also, watch your breather hose. You can disconnect it if you need to or just
pull it down. So what we’re gonna do is take the factory
isolator off. Just slip right around the bump stop there
then what we can do is stack this with our spacer. This is gonna go around the bottom then we
can go ahead and install that. You might have to separate them to get the
spacer on. So you may have to take a mallet and hit it
over this lip here. However, you wanna make sure that you are
installing these spacer with the lip down and the indentation at the top then we can
install our factory isolator and then reinstall our spring. You also wanna make sure that it’s seated
in the back there where that pigtail ends then you can put a little bit of pressure
on it just to keep it in place. We can do the same thing on the other side. All right. So now we can start to raise up our axle,
compress our springs and then we can start putting everything back together. So now we can start to put everything back
together. I’m gonna start with our brake lines. We’re installing that 10-millimeter bolt and
tightening it up with that 10-millimeter socket. Then we can move to our lower shock bolt. So, again, you may have to tinker with the
axle height. Just make sure you’re watching your lift points
when you do this because you have extra compression on your springs now that you have a spacer
in there. And we can tighten her up with a 18-millimeter
swivel and an 18-millimeter wrench, then we can move on to our sway bar end link. So while we’re on the side, what we can do
is start to attach our sway bar end links. Now, I am going to do the top bolt first just
because we have this track bar bracket up on our frame so it’s not easy to access our
sway bar at the top when it actually is in position. So I’m gonna thread that nut on then I’m gonna
grab a six-millimeter Allen key to keep this still while I tighten it down with a 19-millimeter
wrench. So once that’s tight, what we can do is push
this up and line up that bottom bolt hole, grab our factory bolt and secure that down. So what we can do now is secure the lower
part of our end link with our factory hardware. I’m also using the new washer that Mammoth
provided to just sit on that bushing there. You don’t want the bolt head to damage that. You can thread on that nut and then we can
tighten it down with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. And then we can repeat that whole process
on the other side. So after we’re finished up in the front, we
can move to the back and what you need to do is support the rear axle and then our first
step back here is to remove the lower shock bolt so we can access our sway bar end link. So I’m using an 18-millimeter socket and an
18-millimeter wrench. We can go ahead and remove that bolt. All right. So, again, you may have to tinker with the
height of the axle in order to get that bolt out or loosen it up. Then we can do the same thing on the other
side. So what we can do next is disconnect the lower
part of our sway bar end link in the back. So I’m gonna use that same 18-millimeter socket
and the 18-millimeter wrench to remove that lower bolt. So before we lower our axle, I do want to
remove the brake line bracket. So I’m gonna use that same 10-millimeter socket
and remove that bolt. Just make sure it’s unhooked so it’s not caught
and then we can disconnect the clips that are holding in our ABS line just to give that
a little bit of slack as well. So if you disconnect one of these on the axle
side, it should give it enough slack. So the axle is not dropping down far enough
in order to get our spring back in with the spacer. So what I’m gonna do, again, is just disconnect
the track bar on the axle side using the same 21-millimeter socket that we used up front. All right. And that should allow us to drop our axle
a little bit lower and take out those springs. So with our new spacer and our factory isolator
stacked on top of each other, what we can do is just reinstall our spring then. So you may have to pull down on the axle in
order to get the spring back in. So once those are in place, we can put some
pressure back on our axle and bolt everything else up. So now that our spacers are in, we can start
to button everything up, starting with our brake line. So I’m gonna reinstall that 10-millimeter
bolt on the frame then we can just put our clip back. Now on the axle where our rotor is, you can
leave that one unhooked just because you do wanna little bit of slack with your ABS line
but I’m going to hook that top one on the frame. And we can secure our sway bar end links with
our factory hardware. Then we can tighten it down with an 18-millimeter
wrench and socket then do the same thing on the other side. Then we can connect our lower shock bolt using
our factory hardware and tightening that back up with the same
18-millimeter wrench and socket. Then same thing on the other side. So after everything’s buttoned up, all we
have to do is put the wheels on, put it on its own weight so we can reconnect the track
bar and then we’re all set to go. So with somebody pushing on the side of the
Jeep, you will be able to shimmy it back and forth enough to get that bolt through then
we’re going to connect our flag nut on the other side. So I shimmied the bolt back just so I could
get the flag nut threaded and then we can go ahead and tighten that up with our 21-millimeter
socket. We can do the same thing with the front. All right. So with somebody in the driver seat, what
they can do is turn the wheel back and forth and you should be able to line up your track
bar. So that’s what I’m doing here. I just got…have to push it through a little
bit farther and then we can thread on the flag nut. So once that flag nut is threaded on with
a 21-millimeter socket and I like to use an extension here to clear the drag link, we
can tighten that down. That’s gonna wrap it up for my review and
install. Make sure you like and subscribe and for more
videos and products like this, always keep it right here at

About the Author: Michael Flood

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