Jeep Wrangler JK Teraflex Rzeppa High-Angle Factory Replacement CV Joint Kit Review & Install

Jeep Wrangler JK Teraflex Rzeppa High-Angle Factory Replacement CV Joint Kit Review & Install

Hey, guys. So, today, I’m here with the Teraflex Rzeppa
High-Angle Factory Style CV Joint Replacement Kit, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So, in a nutshell, when you’re lifting your
Wrangler, you’re creating a lot of hard angles with your suspension and your driveline, and
can cause some accelerated wear and tear on a lot of key components that keep your Jeep
running. So, one of those common failures is your factory
style Rzeppa or your CV joint on your driveshafts. Now, when you’re creating those hard angles
from lifting your Wrangler, it can cause the boot on the driveshaft to rub up against the
actual flange, and it can cause some ripping and tearing, and eventually, let the grease
get out and contaminants get in, and have this thing prone to failure. So, this option by Teraflex is gonna be perfect
for that JK owner, who is either experiencing that wear and tear after they’ve lifted their
Jeep, roughly two-and-a-half to three inches and up, or is for that JK owner who is looking
for are a preventative measure or a solution to that problem that may cause further down
the road. Now, this option by Teraflex is gonna be a
lot larger and wider on the flange, which is going to accommodate for that harder angle. So, it’s not only gonna be a perfect replacement
to a damaged part, but it is going to be a long-term solution added to their factory
driveshaft. Now, not only is this just going to be for
the JK owner who’s looking for a replacement or a solution or even both, but it’s gonna
be for that JK owner who doesn’t want to invest a lot of money in a new driveshaft because
of those harder angles. So, it can get a little pricey if you’re replacing
this whole thing, but I think if this is still good, then only replacing the damaged or broken
part is a perfect solution. So, speaking of prices, this is also gonna
be very affordable at roughly $150. And I think for what this kit comes with,
down to the Loctite and the grease, that this is, overall, a very quality and detailed kit
perfect for that replacement and that long-term solution like I mentioned before. Now, more expensive solutions, like I just
mentioned, are usually gonna be for those full driveshaft options, which are going to
soften those harder angles that you create when you’re lifting your Wrangler, but they’re
gonna be pretty pricey. So driveshafts can range anywhere from $400
and up. So, something for $150 that’s going to fix
the problem that you’re experiencing is definitely something that I would keep in mind. So, we also have a more affordable solution
than this, but that’s going to be a baseline replacement. So Teraflex also offers just a standard factory
style replacement, and that’s gonna be more for the JK owner who has not lifted their
Wrangler, but is just experiencing normal wear and tear, and is just looking for a replacement
to the ripped boot or the failed joint. So, overall, I think this is a great kit. I think it’s set at a very affordable price
for a replacement as well as a solution. And honestly, you really can’t beat it if
you’re not looking to replace your whole driveshaft. So install is gonna be a two out of three
wrenches on the difficulty meter, probably taking you about three to four hours to get
the job done in your driveway or your garage. Now, you are gonna need a couple of different
specialty tools, however, a lot of basic hand tools as well. So, speaking of that install, let’s jump into
that now. The tools that I used for this install were
impact wrenches, pneumatic and electric, a dead blow, a 15-millimeter, and 5/16-inch
socket, a swivel socket, an 18-millimeter deep Impact socket, pair of needle nose pliers,
a pair of snips, a pair of channel locks, a pair of standard pliers, a pair of snap
ring pliers, PB B’laster, any penetrating catalyst, a pry bar, a couple of flathead
screwdrivers, a bungee cord, a torque wrench, a series of extensions, and a couple of punches
and chisels, and the provided Allen key. So this Teraflex CV joint is compatible with
the front and the rear driveshaft. Now, the front driveshaft is usually the one
that is more prone to failure because of that higher angle. And that’s exactly what we’re gonna replace
on this Jeep behind me. So, our first step is to take off our transfer
case skid plate. So we’re gonna start with the transfer case
skid plate. Now you don’t necessarily have to take this
off, but it’s gonna be very helpful if you do and open up a lot of room. I’m gonna use an 18-millimeter deep socket
to disconnect the four bolts that are holding it on. So, our next step after our transfer case
skid plate is off is to remove the driveshaft from the axle side flange. I’m gonna be using a 15-millimeter socket
and an extension with my impact to remove those four bolts. So, after the bolts are out, you may have
to hit it with a hammer in order to disconnect it from the flange. Now, you will need to support this, so I would
grab a bungee and just hang it from the front upper control arm, and then we can head to
the back of our driveshaft. So, our next step is to disconnect our driveshaft
at the transfer case. Now, I have a 5/16-inch socket, a five-inch
extension on a swivel socket, and then a 15-inch extension just to clear this crossmember and
the exhaust here. And I also have my impact wrench, and we’re
gonna remove all the bolts that are surrounding that Rzeppa joint. So, what I have here is a punch. There is a notch on either side of the flange
that will allow you to get a punch in there, and that’s gonna help the Rzeppa joint disconnect
or separate from the flange on your transfer case. Now, I’m just gonna hit that with a hammer
and continue to separate these two pieces. So after it’s pretty separated, what I’m gonna
do is just put a pry bar in there and get the flange out, and then we can go ahead and
take this off, and put our driveshaft on the table. So now that we have our driveshaft on the
table, our next steps include getting this flange off. So, we’re gonna have to take this clamp off
of the boot here. And then we’re gonna have to knock off this
cap so we can get to the inside, and eventually, take off this back part of the flange, so
we can replace it. But our first step is gonna be for this clamp,
so I’m gonna use a pair of needle-nose pliers and pinch the clamp so we can unhook it off
of this little barb, and get it off. So after that clamp is off there, what we
can do is grab a flathead and start to pop this cap off. I’m just gonna use a hammer and sort of chisel
at it. So, after we have the cap off, there is gonna
be a spring clip holding on the flange here. I’m gonna take a pair of spring clip pliers. So after we remove the cap, we do need to
remove this snap ring. Now, you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. But after that’s off, what we can do is hammer
off this flange. So our next step is just to hammer off the
flange. So, our next step is just to clean the shaft
with some brake cleaner. Now we’re ready for our new flange. So, like I mentioned to you guys before, this
is a factory style setup and it mimics the factory design. So you’re getting a new Rzeppa joint, which
is going to basically be the same thing. It’s those multiple ball bearings in this
ball and socket style setup, and it’s gonna move around and allow your driveshaft to move
around freely. Now, where this factory joint fails is actually
in the boot and the flange here. So, your boot at a hard angle will rub up
against this flange, and that’s because the flange is actually at a hard angle. Now, if you take a look at the Teraflex one,
it’s angled outward, so it’s gonna be a lot wider, and allow that harder angle of your
driveshaft, which is what happens when you lift your Jeep. So, essentially, what your driveshafts are
doing when you lift your Wrangler, is going at a hard angle, and that’s where this is
going to tear. So when it tears, it’s going to allow all
that grease to go out. It’s going to allow contaminants to come in,
and that’s why this is very prone to failure because ripping that boot is just inducing
that failure. Now with this Teraflex one, this is going
to prevent that because the boot should not rub up against the flange, and it’s even gonna
come with everything that you need to install it. We have new caps, the boot is on there, and
it is a little bit more durable and a perfect replacement to a damaged or worn-out boot. And you even get the bolts for this with the
threadlocker and a little clamp to install it. So enough about these two side by side on
the table, let’s go ahead and put together a new CV joint. So Teraflex includes low friction grease in
the kit. And what we have to do next is pack our bearing. Now, putting grease on top and just spreading
it around is not enough. We have to make sure that it is packed very
tightly into each of the ball bearings, and that’s going to reduce the opportunity for
failure in our actual joint. So, just going to put a plop of grease, and
we will have to use the whole tube of grease. You wanna make sure that this has enough grease
as possible, and that’s the exact amount that Teraflex provides in the kit. So, our next step once the joint is packed
is just to clean it off. So, all of these holes around here are bolt
holes, we wanna make sure that there is no grease in there. Also, we wanna make sure that there’s no grease
on the ceiling surface. If there is grease, it can compromise the
seal. And if there’s any grease in these bolt holes,
it can compromise the strength of the threadlocker that’s gonna be holding our bolts in. So, what we wanna do is just clean off this
surface here. I’m using a clean rag as well as some brake
clean. Wanna make sure that there’s nothing on this
surface. Now hat’s gonna be a little bit hard to do,
but just take your time because that is going to keep the longevity of the joint. So, you wanna make sure that you don’t use
the bolts that are provided. You probably could use a factory bolt but,
putting a bolt through here will just compromise the threadlocker that’s on it, so what I’m
just doing is rolling up a paper towel and pulling it through the bolthole. That’s gonna just push all of that grease
out. So, our next step is to install our bolts
on our dust shield here. So, we are going to put our brackets on here
before we install our bolt. And this step is really important before we
go ahead and actually install the dust boot on our Rzeppa joint. You wanna make sure that these are on first
and then we can go ahead and install this boot on to our Rzeppa joint. Now these are just going to keep the structural
integrity of the flange and add a little bit of strength to that and rigidity. And then once all of those are through, what
we can do is grab our joint and install the dust boot on to our joint. Now, again, you wanna make sure that this
surface where that seal is very clean. And you also wanna make sure that we’re installing
the dust boot on the tapered edge. So there’s gonna be a stepped edge and a tapered
edge, and we’re gonna install the boot side on to the tapered edge, making sure that our
clamp is also on there. We’re gonna slide it on as far as we can. So, after the CV joint is on our driveshaft,
we can take our new snap ring and put that into place where the old one was. Now, you wanna make sure that it sits fully
in place. You can grab a flathead. So after the snap bring is on, you just wanna
make sure that the surface, again, around the joint is clean to make sure that this
is sealing properly. Now, what I also did was put the rest of the
grease that they provided in the kit on to the cap here, that’s just going to make sure
that this is fully greased, making sure that this has the longest lifespan possible. Then we can go ahead and install the cap on
to our CV joint. Now, this is actually going to set in place
once we tighten it down on the transfer case, but you wanna make sure that it is seated
properly. I just grabbed a pair of channel locks, just
to make sure that this seats in place enough for when we install it on the Jeep. So, now we have to install our clamp and make
sure that it is very tight, tight enough to make sure that this boot seals to our driveshaft. Grease can’t come out and then contaminants
can’t come in. So, you are supposed to have a specialty tool
for this, however, a lot of you guys at home will not, so I’m gonna show you the way to
do it if you don’t have this tool. I just tightened most of this clamp by hand. As you saw earlier, it was a lot wider. So, what I’m gonna do is just snip off a decent
amount of this and we’re going to roll the end of this tight. So after that is pulled tight, you may want
to just clamp that down up against the actual clamp itself, and then we’re going to set
our locking tabs into place. Now, these are gonna be on either side. Make sure that you don’t puncture the boot. You’re just going to bend these in and we’re
just gonna hammer them down. So after we’re all set from the table, what
we can do is start to install our driveshaft. Now, I have the bungee still here because
we do need to make sure that it’s supported in the back. So what we have to do, at this point, is make
sure that all these bolt holes are lining up, and we can start threading them in with
our provided Allen key by Teraflex. So, you wanna make sure that you’re tightening
them down evenly. So, I’m just doing a couple of passes and
going on to the next bolt. I’m also using a 10-inch extension and a hand
ratchet because we don’t wanna over-tighten these bolts. They’re only going to be torqued to 15-foot-pounds. So, we don’t wanna over-torque them because
it will compromise the seal. So, our next step is to install the axle side
of our driveshaft, reusing our factory four bolts, and we are provided with threadlocker
to install these bolts with. So you wanna put a little bit of a coating
on each, then we can thread those back into the factory holes. So after the bolts are threaded in, then we
can tighten them back down with our 15-millimeter socket and 3-inch extension. All right, last but not least, we have to
torque our flange bolts on the axle side to 81-foot-pounds, and on the Rzeppa side to
15-foot-pounds. So, our last step is just to reinstall our
transfer case skid plate using the factory bolts. After that, we can just tighten it up with
that 18-millimeter deep socket. After that’s tightened down, then you’re all
set to go. So that’s gonna wrap it up for my review and
install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this,
always keep it right here at

About the Author: Michael Flood


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  2. What wasn’t mentioned is that this is a perfect time to grease the splines of the slip joint of the driveshaft. If the boot over the splines is still intact, all you will need are two simple replacement clamps similar to the ones one the shown Rzeppa joint – do NOT use worm clamps. IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS: Make sure you not the EXACT orientation of the two pieces of driveshaft. Reassembling them even one spline off will guarantee driveshaft vibration, as the weights will not be on the correct location. That, and, if the driveshaft Rzeppa is already needing replacement, check and/or replace the u-joint at the axle/pinion end.
    Also, anywhere you have metal meeting metal, a little application of antisieze will ensure an easy removal the next time. All in all, a little preventative maintenance since you’re down there, will be everything in the long run.

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