Jeep Wrangler YJ Rubicon Express 2.5″ Suspension System w/ Twin Shocks (1987-1995) Review & Install

Jeep Wrangler YJ Rubicon Express 2.5″ Suspension System w/ Twin Shocks (1987-1995) Review & Install


Hey, what’s up, guys. I’m Ryan from ExtremeTerrain, and today I’m
here with a Rubicon Express 2.5-inch standard suspension system with twin tube shocks fitting
your 1987 to 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ. This is a very affordable option to gain some
additional ground clearance. So, if you’re looking to moderately lift your
YJ, then you should be checking out this lift kit from Rubicon Express. Rubicon Express makes a quality kit for a
great price. It’s gonna give you everything that you need
to lift your YJ, get it back on the road and ready for those trails. This system is gonna make your Jeep taller,
more capable, giving you that aggressive off-roading stance and it’s gonna give you even more ground
clearance by allowing the addition of larger tires up to a 31-inch tire. This kit gives you everything that you need
for a nice comfortable ride, incredible performance off-road whenever you decide to steer off
the pavement. Now, as far as lift kits go, I think this
is one of the better options to choose from. This kit comes complete and as far as other
cheaper kits, they may have lesser quality shocks or leave necessary parts out. Coming in right around $800, this is a great
deal considering you are getting everything you need to complete this install, get back
on the road and hit those trails. Now, as far as installation goes, I am gonna
give this a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Expect this to take about a day. Now, suspension systems are under tension,
so if you’re not familiar with suspension systems, I would recommend a knowledgeable
friend or have a shop and professional installation. Now, with that being said, let’s hop into
the install. Tools we use for this install: needle nose
pliers, wire cutters, standard and metric wrench set, quarter-inch drive ratchet, half-inch
drive ratchet, 3/8s drive ratchet, a pry bar, socket extension, socket, adapter, T40 Torx,
an adjustable wrench, slightly smaller adjustable wrench, vice grips, Red Loctite, flathead
screwdrivers, Phillips head screwdriver, a drill, half-inch drill bit, a hammer, standard
and metric socket set, T55 Torx, 3/8s drive impact, half-inch drive impact, and a half-inch
drive breaker bar. So, before we get started, even possibly a
few days before you start the installation of this, I want to recommend going around
with PB Blaster and just spraying all the hardware that you’re gonna take apart. Talking springs, shocks, sway bar end links,
and track bars, all that hardware, spray it down that way when you go to take it apart,
that it will come apart. These are older vehicles, we’re dealing with
a 30-year-old plus Wrangler and they, especially for those of you on the East Coast like us,
we’re dealing with a lot of rust issue. So, there’s two ways you can do this. You can do it on the lift like we’re doing
it or you can do it on the ground. If you’re doing it on the ground, you wanna
jack the front up, chuck the wheels, take the front wheels off. We’re only gonna do one axle at a time. So, we’re gonna start up here on the front,
and the first thing we’re gonna do is take out our shocks. So, we’re gonna grab our gloves, probably
put on safety glasses due to falling rust issues and get started. So, we’re gonna start with this bottom bolt
here on the shock. We’re gonna use a 19-millimeter wrench on
the inside, then we use a 19-millimeter sock for the bolt head. You’re gonna need to push with all your might. So, next, we’re gonna take out the top of
the shock. I put vice grips up here at the top just to
hold this cylinder still. You can use a 9/16s wrench to get this nut
off and we’ll pull that shock assembly out. Then next, we’re gonna disconnect our track
bar where it meets the axle. So, we’re gonna use an 18-millimeter socket
for the head of the bolt, 21-millimeter socket for the back of the nut. The next thing we’re gonna do is take off
our sway bar end links. So, we’re gonna start with this bottom on
here. You’re gonna use a 19-millimeter socket, we’re
going to take that nut off. Hopefully, that nut comes off and then we’re
gonna work on disconnecting the top. So, we’re gonna disconnect the top, we’re
gonna use that same 19-millimeter socket to get that nut off. So, next thing we’re gonna do is take out
our leaf springs. We’re gonna work on doing this. We’re going to support our axle with a pole
jack and we’re only gonna do one side at a time, that way, we’re not balancing this axle
up in the air and risking it falling. So, we’re gonna support it. We’re gonna start with our U-bolts. We’ll use a 19-millimeter sock to take all
four of these off and then we’ll start disconnecting our shackles. So, you wanna pull off that bottom plate,
pull both of those U-bolts out, then we’re gonna get ready to get the spring out. So, to get this front shackle out, we’ve got
to take this bolt out right here. We’re going to use a 19-millimeter wrench
for the bolt head, 19-millimeter socket for the nut. Pull that out. We’re gonna swing it all the way down and
then we’re gonna get this back one out. So, for this back one, you’re gonna use a
21-millimeter socket for the bolt head, 22-millimeter socket for the nut. Once we get that out, we’re gonna try to get
this bolt all the way out, take the spring out. So, the next thing we’re gonna do is install
our new leaf springs. Now, you’re going to have a double-wrap, this
is the military wrap. And this end is gonna go on the frame side
towards the back when we’re talking about the front. So, you’re gonna have a series of black bushings. These are polyurethane, they’re gonna slide
right into here, and these ends are already greased. So, you put one in from both sides, squeeze
them together. There’s a little metal sleeve that goes in
there as well. This is all included in that kit. Once you get all that assembled, we’re gonna
put this up here. We’re gonna start with the back, and we’re
gonna reuse this factory bolt. So, I’m gonna lift this up into place, slide
that in. We’ll get this nut on. So, next, we’re gonna go to the other side
of the leaf spring. We’re gonna attach it to our shackles. Now, we decided to upgrade our shackles. Since we’re already in here, we’re already
taking stuff apart, but we’re gonna install that other side. Now, we can’t lower the axle down right now
because the brake line is gonna limit us, so that’s the next thing we’re gonna do a
once we get this bolted. All right. So, the next thing we’re gonna do is unbolt
this brake line. This brake line has a bracket up here, there’s
a T40 Torx bolt. You need to use a T40 Torx to get that bolt
out. Once you get that out, we’re gonna pull this
line down. We’re gonna take the line back off of this
steel collar here. So, we’re gonna take vice grips, grab on to
this section, [inaudible 00:08:13], then we’re gonna use a 3/8s line wrench to crack that
free, and then we’re gonna get something to catch all this fluid when it comes out. All right. So, once you crack this free, you’re gonna
have a little brake fluid coming out, it’d be a good idea to set a rag here on the axle,
it’s gonna catch some of that. Now, with this new brake line, we’re gonna
have a collar, so we’re gonna screw this collar on to there. That’s gonna allow us to screw onto the factory
line, and then this other end is gonna screw into this rubber hose. So, we’re gonna crack this free and then we’re
gonna try to do this as quick as we can so we don’t lose a lot of brake fluid. So, you’re gonna use a 12-millimeter line
wrench for this collar right here. Make sure that these lines are nice and tight,
make sure that they’re not leaking anymore. So, once you get all that stuff done on the
other side installing the spring, putting these brake line extensions, we’re gonna lower
the whole housing down and we’re gonna get it to sit on these pins. You have a little tiny pin in the middle of
these leaf springs and you have pockets inside of these axle purchase. So, we’re gonna lower this whole assembly
down, get those in and we’ll install the brand new U-bolts and those factory plates. So, as far as U-bolts go, you’re gonna have
two different sizes. The larger ones are gonna be up front. You can see that there’s extra thickness on
the axle housing here, so you’re gonna have one big one on one side and the skinny one,
the smaller one is gonna go to the outside. After that, we’re gonna put our plate back
on. Then, we’re gonna line our plate up, slide
it on, and then we’re gonna install the brand new washers and nuts that they give us. All right. So, what you want to do is get all this hardware
installed, do the same on the other side. Once you have everything together, we’re gonna
take a 19-millimeter socket on an impact, we’re gonna tighten these all up until that
little pin goes inside of that housing and we wanna try to make them as even as possible. So, after that, we’re gonna tighten up the
leaf springs, front, and rear. All right. So, we’re just about ready to put the shocks
in. Before you get those in, you wanna install
the dust boot. Boot is gonna keep a bunch dust out and you
have a steel sleeve that’s gonna install into the bottom. It just presses right in, you can do that
with your hand. We are gonna reuse the factory bolt for the
bottom, so you wanna make sure that the bolt goes in there. So, we’re gonna start with the top and we’re
gonna use the supplied hardware to get that installed. So, the first thing you’re gonna do, so you’re
gonna take a cup washer, that’s going to face up, then we’re gonna face our bushing up,
then we’re gonna slide this up through here. And then same thing, we’re gonna do a bushing
on top. So, we’re gonna slide that down on there,
we’re gonna do a cup washer, and then the brand new nut that they give us. So, what I’m gonna do is just take vice grips,
grab at the very top up here, that’s gonna hold this still while we tighten that nut
down. Take a 19-millimeter wrench and we’ll tighten
that nut up. Then once we get that in, gonna use a 19-millimeter
socket and a wrench to get that all tightened up. All right. So, the next thing we have to do is we have
to drill out the hole for the track bar bracket that we’re gonna install it to a half-inch. Since our drag link is in the way, we’re gonna
take off our tie rod over here on the passenger side. So, you’re gonna have a cotter pin in here
and you wanna use some sort of prying tool to get that out, then we’re gonna take that
castle nut off, then we’ll smack this out, and then we’ll drill out that hole, 19-millimeter
socket taking the castle nut off. We’re gonna take a hammer, we’re gonna smack
this knuckle right here, don’t hit the boot and that’s gonna allow that to drop out. We get this out, what I’m gonna do, take a
pry bar, pry this down and back, then just spin the knuckle out of the way. All right. So, like I said, we’re gonna drill out this
slot right here to a half-inch. So, we’re gonna get a sharp half-inch bit. You wanna make sure to keep this lubricated
with some WD-40. So, after that, you’re gonna open your bag,
specifically labeled track bar bolt. We’re gonna make sure that that bolt fits. Once we realize that that bolt fits, we’re
gonna go ahead and take our bracket. You’re gonna have this 90-degree bend right
here that’s actually gonna sit underneath of this edge and then we’re gonna put this
new bolt through and that nylon lock nut on the back side. After that, we’re going to get it started. Then, you can use a 19-millimeter socket,
19-millimeter wrench to tighten it up. So, now that we’ve got that hole drilled,
we’ve got that bracket on, we’re gonna go ahead and put this tie rod back in. So, we’ll put the castle nut back in and we’ll
add a little tension to it and make sure that it doesn’t spin. Once it’s on, we’re gonna line up the hole
so we can put that cotter pin back in. So, next, we’re gonna reinstall our track
bar. Looks like our holes are a little offset,
so we’re gonna shift the axle over. This is something you can do, you can put
the wheels and tires on, set it on the ground, the weight of the vehicle is gonna shift it
over or you can to do it up in the air like we’re gonna do. We’re gonna do it with a ratchet strap. So, I’ve hooked down here on the shock mount
and I have it hooked over here on the frame as well. We just need to pull it over a little bit
when you put that bolt back in. So, when reinstalling this, you can reuse
your factory bolt. We decided to switch our bolt out. So, we’re gonna use this bottom hole, you
have two different holes and we’ll get this bolt in and we’ll tighten it up. So, as far as the front goes, we’re pretty
much done. We do have to install the sway bar end links,
but we have to weld some tabs on, so we’re gonna wait till the very end. Meanwhile, before we start on the rear, we’re
gonna do our transfer case drop. Now, you get these little rubber spacers and
these are gonna go in between the skid plate in the frame. You have brand new hardware to install those,
so we supported it with our pole jack. I’m gonna loosen up one side, take out the
other side, lower it down, and get all these spacers in. So, to get these bolts out, we’re gonna use
a 19-millimeter socket. All right. So, you’re gonna get these brand new bolts,
each one is gonna get a very large washer. Then you’re gonna go up through the skid plate
into the frame. We’re gonna do that to all three, then we’ll
get the other side in to tighten up a little bit. All right. Now, we’re gonna get the other side in. Okay. So, what I have to do now is loosen up the
skid plate on the transmission because it needs to slide backwards. So, when you drop the skid plate, it’s gonna
pull forward a little bit. You’re gonna have two nuts underneath of here
that’s holding the transmission mount to the skid plate. Use a 15-millimeter socket to loosen those
up. Once you get those loose, we can get these
end bolts in and get this plate to slide backwards. So, you can use a screwdriver or any kind
of Dow pin thing to push that whole skid plate back and then we’ll get these bolts in. Line these up, get these new bolts installed. Same thing, 19-millimeter, we’re gonna tighten
them up. Once you have all the skid plate bolts tightened
down, you can tighten these nuts back up. All right. So, the first thing we’re gonna do on the
back is mess around with some brake lines. We get this brand new stainless steel braided
brake line and that is going to replace the one coming down from the frame to our actual
axle. So, there’s a couple of things that we need
to disconnect. And, of course, one main thing that you wanna
make sure of is that the bleeders on the back of these drums crack free. So, once you get those free, we’re gonna test
break all these other lines free and we’ll get this thing swapped out. So, the first thing we’re gonna do is take
off this vent hose. We have a fitting that’s holding this block
to the actual axle, then we’re gonna use a flathead screwdriver to take that clamp off. Once we get it loose, we’ll slide it up, give
this a nice little twist, pull that off. Now, before we remove this stud right here,
you wanna make sure that these brake lines crack free. So, what you wanna use is a line wrench. Now, a line wrench is a special wrench that’s
gonna wrap around it, that’s gonna give it a little bit extra of a hold, and it’s gonna
make sure that you don’t strip it. So, once you have these free, then we can
remove this block. We’re gonna use a 9/16s socket to get this
out. So, the next thing we’re gonna do is disconnect
these two lines and then install them into our new line. So, what I’m gonna do is take vice grips,
clamp this rubber line because I don’t wanna lose all of my fluid while I’m disconnecting
this line. Then, we’ll take our 3/8s wrench, get both
of these lines out. You wanna put a bucket underneath because
they’re probably gonna spill a little brake fluid. Then, we’ll try to get this done as fast as
we can so we don’t lose as much fluid. Once you get those lines back on, we’ll go
ahead and put this fitting back in and that’ll hold it in place. Also, keep dirt from getting inside of the
axle tube. Take our 9/16s, tighten it back up, then we
can tighten those lines up. Now, we can put our vent line back on, tighten
up that clamp, then we’ll tighten up our lines. So, the next thing we’re gonna do, we’re gonna
go up top here where it attaches to the frame, and we’re gonna unscrew this line so we can
switch it to the other hose. Now, we’ve got to pull this little collar
out, that’s actually the retainer that holds this hose in there. And Rubicon Express even gives you a nice
little bracket with a self-tapper. You can mount that line anywhere. However, we’re gonna reuse this factory bracket. So, first thing we’re gonna do, make sure
that this line cracks free. Once it cracks free, we’re gonna unscrew it
a little bit, we’ll pull that collar out, and switch the lungs. So, just take some needle nose pliers, grab
onto that backside. You can pull that out. So, then you’re gonna get this line started,
screw it all the way in. You can even try to tighten it up just a little
bit so it stops leaking. Now, we get a new retainer in our kits, so
we’re gonna install that. That’s gonna hold this line nice and tight
in there. Then we’ll finish tightening this line. Next thing we’re gonna do is remove our track
bar. We’re gonna fully remove our track bar, so
we need to disconnect it from both ends. We’re gonna start here over here on the axle. We’re gonna use a T55 Torx and an adjustable
wrench on the backside. Now, the other end of the track bar where
it mounts to the frame looks like we’re gonna use a 16-millimeter socket for the bolt head
and an 18-millimeter socket for the nut. Now, I got to grab a hammer, smack that bolt
out, then we’ll pull this track bar out. So, over here is a little stuck in this mount
because this Jeep is pretty rusty. Take a pry bar, get it in there, pry it out
of that top mount being careful that you don’t destroy everything. So, next thing we’re gonna do is remove our
shocks. We’re gonna start with the lower bolt, 19-millimeter
socket and wrench. All right. So, next, we’re gonna go to the top of the
shock. Use that same 19-millimeter socket, most likely
on an extension to get that out. So, the next thing we’re gonna do is work
on getting these leaf springs out. Now, you wanna support the axle on both ends,
you also wanna support the pinion where the drive shaft connects to the axle. When we unhook these leaf springs, the axle
is gonna wanna roll forward so we’re gonna support that and keep it from doing that. So, at this point in time, we have our axle
supported, we’re gonna work on getting these U-bolts out. We’re gonna use a 19-millimeter socket to
try to get all four of these nuts off. Once you get that plate off, then we’re gonna
pull our U-bolts out. We have brand new U-bolts to install. So, now that we have our U-bolts out, we’re
gonna go ahead and take our leaf spring out. So, we have our axle supported already. Now, if you have your stock suspension and
you’re doing this, you’re gonna remove this bolt here. So, 19-millimeter socket on the outside, 19-millimeter
wrench. We are removing our shackles because we’re
adding new shackles in that’s not in this kit. So, we’re gonna take out this bolt up here. Then, once we get this swinging down, we’re
gonna go and do the front. All right. So, we got the front squared away, we got
the rear completely disassembled, and we’re just about ready to install our brand new
leaf springs and shocks. But before we do that, I just wanna take a
quick, brief second to go over some of the components that come in this kit, what exactly
they’re going to do, and what a brand new lift kit is gonna do for your Jeep. Now, of course, with this, we’re talking about
a YJ. YJs are a lot older and they tend to have
worn out rusted suspension, especially for those of you on the East Coast. A brand new lift kit is going to increase
ride quality, it’s gonna increase performance, bring that back to factory specs or even better. And also you get to swap out all of that rusted
old rusted stuff for brand new shiny products. So, the first thing I wanna talk about is
the leaf springs. The leaf springs are going to give you the
lift height. They come with brand new bushings that press
in, these are polyurethane bushings. So, that’s gonna give you the added height
from your Jeep. These bushings are gonna stiffen up the suspension
a lot, get rid of some of that lag and play that rubber bushings have. These also are not gonna dry ride and crack
over time like a rubber bushing. Now, the next thing I wanna talk about is
the shocks. Your factory shocks are hydraulic shocks and
hydraulic shocks tend to heat up when they’re worked really hard. So, if you’re ripping through this trails
bouncing around, really working them, they’re gonna heat up. Now, these new shocks are Rubicon Express’s
twin tube shocks. So, they’re basically designed on the platform
of a mono-tube, but they have a double tube. This allows for larger fluid capacity, allows
for a larger piston diameter inside, and it also gives you that extra shell on the outside. That is in case if you dent it on the trail
in a spot where it’s just unavoidable, that’s not gonna affect performance, it has that
added protection around it. These have a hardened shaft that’s chrome-plated,
a double multi lip seal in there which is gonna keep all kinds of dirt and debris from
scratching that shock and messing that seal up inside of there, and they also have very
durable rubber bushings on both ends. One of the nice things about these shocks,
these shocks are nitrogen-charged. So, nitrogen-charged tend to give a little
bit stiffer of a ride than a hydraulic shock, but you can work them like crazy. They’re not gonna lose or fade or lag over
time. They’re not gonna heat up like a hydraulic
shock, these are gonna perform really well, and they’re gonna give you a pretty nice ride
quality and a ton of performance on the trails. Next thing I wanna talk about is the U-bolts. Now, the old U-bolts are completely rusted. They give you brand new U-bolts, which is
gonna be a really nice feature. We don’t have to swap those over and even
as far as the sway bar end links go, the factory ones just don’t really cut it. When you want to disconnect those and really
flex the suspension on the trail, you have to climb under the Jeep and actually unbolt
those with tools. These new ones are greasable, adjustable,
which is a great feature and they’re quick to disconnect as well, so you can climb under
there, pull a pin, disconnect them, put your sway bar up and out of the way and be on your
way. Now, of course, we’re adding taller leaf springs. We are pushing the axles further away from
the Jeep. So, this is gonna change all kinds of pinion
angles and especially for that tiny short little rear drive shaft, we need an angle
that pinion up a little bit. So, this kit comes with some angling plates,
some shims, and that’s gonna tilt that pinion back up, it’s gonna reduce those drive train
vibrations. Another thing I wanna talk about is a transfer
case drop. Comes with little spacers that’s gonna lower
your whole drive line down and it’s gonna give that rear drive shaft a little bit better
of an angle that’s also gonna reduce driveshaft wear and vibrations as well. Now, the shocks are finished off in a black
powder coating, these leaf springs are finished off in a nice black powder coating. This is all gonna blend right in underneath
of that Jeep. So, with all of that being said, let’s show
you how to get the rest of this stuff installed, bleed the brakes, and what it looks like on
the Jeep. So, next thing we gonna do is install the
leaf springs. Now, you have these bushings, once again,
you have bushings that you need to press in and you have a metal sleeve in there. You’re gonna have a double military wrap and
also you have two different size sleeves. One is gonna have a smaller diameter on the
inside and that’s gonna go on the far side. This double wrap is gonna go on our frame
side and we’re gonna reuse that factory bolt. So, if you’re using your factory shackles,
you’re gonna reuse that factory bolt, nut on the other side. Now, we’ll lower this down and we’ll get our
U-bolts in. All right. So, we’re gonna lower this thing down pretty
close to here, and then we’re gonna install those shims, lower it the rest of the way
and get those U-bolts in. So, since we are supporting the pinion, I’m
gonna lower both of these pull jacks. You also wanna make sure that you’re lowering
that one as well so the whole thing doesn’t roll back on you. So, we’re gonna install our shims. Now, these shims have a thicker end and a
thinner end, we’re gonna face that thicker end towards the front and that’s gonna point
our pinion up. So, each one of these is going to go on these
centering pins just like that, then we can lower our axle down. All right. So, the next thing you’re gonna do is lower
this down. It’s gonna be a little bit of that pin sticking
up. We wanna make sure that it sits in there. So, once we get that in there, we’re gonna
drop our new U-bolts down, which seemed to be a pretty tight fit. After that, we’re gonna reinstall our plate
on the bottom. Then each one is gonna get a gold washer from
a hardware pack, then one of these black nuts. Take a 19-millimeter socket, we’ll run these
up some. Make sure this plate goes around this nut
in the center. So, go around with a 19, we’ll tighten all
of these up trying to keep them as even as possible. This is gonna sit flush once that pin is lined
up and it’s all the way in there and you’re gonna do that to both sides. So, the next thing you wanna do is put the
shocks. Now, the shocks, unfortunately, we’re gonna
install upside down because unless you have a lower relocation bracket, the shock body
is going to hit the axle. So, we’re gonna put the body up top, get that
factory nut back on there, then we’ll get the bottom install with that factory bolt. So, before you get this bottom in, you wanna
put that new boot on, then we’re gonna push this up. Now, the other side. And since this spring pad is a little close,
we’ll need to get that nut on before we push that bolt all the way through. So, we’re gonna use a 19-millimeter wrench,
19-millimeter socket to tighten those up. Same thing for the top, 19-millimeter socket. Then you can do the same thing for the other
side. So, the next thing we’re gonna do is bleed
our brakes. Since we opened all the brake lines, we need
to get all of the air out there and get fresh fluid in there. So first thing you wanna make sure as you
keep that master cylinder full with fluid, we don’t wanna run that empty. The next thing you wanna do is make sure that
all the bleeders on the backside of the front rear crack free. The way we’re gonna do this is I have someone
sitting in the Jeep. They’re gonna pump the brakes and that’s gonna
create pressure in the lines. I’m gonna open the bleeder, it’s gonna let
all of that air and fluid out, then I’m gonna close the line, they’re gonna pump it again. We’re gonna do that until we have no more
air left in the line. And we’re gonna start on the rear since that
is the furthest away from the master cylinder. So, one more thing that you should make sure
is that while you’re pumping these breaks, you don’t wanna have any leaks in that new
brake line that we installed. If you do have any leaks, you wanna tighten
that back up. So, we’re gonna go to the other side and we’re
gonna crack this one free. So, while you’re bleeding your brakes, you
wanna keep your master cylinder full. Now, I wanted to go on under the hood, show
you exactly where this is. This is your brake fluid master cylinder. Is the reservoir where all of that fluid is
held. This is your brake booster here, that’s what
gives you the power assist. So, you’re gonna undo this latch, this clamp
up top, push that to the side, and then you can pull this lid off. This lid has a rubber seal inside and that’s
gonna keep all of that fluid in there. So, to fill this back up, you’re just gonna
take normal DOT3 brake fluid and you’re just gonna make sure that this is filled relatively
full and pretty close to the top. Once you have your breaks bled, you wanna
top that thing off, put that cap back on and make sure it seals tight, then you’re all
good to go. So, after getting your breaks bled and you
pull your wheels and tires back on, you wanna sit it on the ground because now is the time
to get these sway bar end links installed. Now, we had a few tabs to weld on, but before
we do that, we’re gonna hang our sway bar end links and get them set up. So, in this kit, with these heavy-duty quicker
disconnects, you’re gonna have two different pins. One is going to have a stud on the backside,
that’s going to be for the bottom, the other one is gonna have a bolt that screws into
it. This one is gonna go up top, so we’re gonna
get this one situated first. So, let’s get under here and get started. So, you’re gonna need to grab some Red Loctite
for this. And what we’re gonna do is face this pin outward. Then we’re gonna go through this pin or through
the sway bar into our pin. After that, we’re gonna take any kind of a
centering punch or tool, and we’re gonna hold that still, then we’re gonna take a three-quarter-inch
ratchet and we’re going to tighten this up. So, after that, we’re gonna take our sway
bar end link. We’re gonna take the side with the adjustable
nut, and that’s gonna slide up top. So, you can grease these up, it’s gonna make
them a little easier to slide on and off, then we’re gonna hang that and adjust it and
get it in position where we can weld our tab on. So, now that we have this attached and on,
we’re gonna go ahead and set up this bottom pin. So, you wanna put the bottom pin through this
little tab that’s welded on tab and all we’re gonna do is just screw this nut on there and
get this set in place so we can line it up with the sway bar end link and get ready to
weld this tab on. So, we’re gonna put that nut on the backside. After that, this bottom end is going to spin
sideways when you face that grease fitting out or in, whichever way is easier to grease
it. And then we’re gonna slide this pin through
there. Once we get that in, we’re gonna push that
back, adjust it to where we want it, then we’ll grind this section clean and then welded. Now, before you weld this, the whole point
of doing this on the ground is to get this sway bar as close to zero parallel to the
ground as possible. So, once we have that where we want it, we
can set this all up. So, after you get those brackets on, you’re
gonna install those pins the same way you did the top. They’re gonna poke through. We got a nylon lock nut put on the backside,
so you want some tool to hold this pin still while we tighten everything up. So, when you do tighten these, you wanna make
sure that they’re level and way that’s gonna give you easy access to this pin whenever
you wanna pull that quick release. So, we’re gonna make these parallel to the
ground, then we’ll just tighten them up. Then we’re just gonna take a little bit of
grease, grease these up so the bushing slide on there. We’re gonna fly with this end link, and since
we already have our end links adjusted, slide that all the way on and back, and you’re gonna
take this pin. And we’re just gonna install that all the
way out there. Then after that, once you have these adjusted,
you’re just gonna tighten this collar down. That’s gonna lock it in place, and then you
wanna grease both of these fittings. All right. So, now that we are completely done installing
this lift kit, the one thing you wanna do is go get an alignment. They’re gonna readjust that tow and straighten
out that steering wheel for you. When you have them do that, recheck all of
those bolts for proper torque. Also, you wanna remember to grease up the
sway bar end links. However, that’s going to wrap up my review
and install. For more products and videos like this, check
us out at extremeterrain.com.

About the Author: Michael Flood

5 Comments

  1. Shop This Rubicon Express 2.5" Suspension System: https://terrain.jp/2ALWfaP

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  2. Nicely done. I installed the Rubicon Express 2.5" suspension on my '91 YJ back in 2012. It has been great so far.
    I didn't use the front brake hard line extensions that came with the kit and opted to install longer flexible brake lines instead. Also didn't reinstall the front track bar. I did install a dropped pitman arm (stock XJ pitman arm). I did use the rear shock relocation brackets until I swapped in an XJ Dana-44 rear axle. I now have a shock mounting stud welded on the spring plates.

  3. I put this kit on about a year ago. Absolutely love the stance, the look, and the ride. I had 31" tires on it initially, but they looked too small after the lift. So, I upgraded to 33"s, and now it looks perfect. I removed the trackbars, both front and rear- vastly improved the ride. Overall, great quality kit. Can't recommend it enough.

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