LS Engine Swap Part 3 – Fuel Delivery System, Hose & Hose End Assembly

LS Engine Swap Part 3 – Fuel Delivery System, Hose & Hose End Assembly


Welcome back to Chuck’s Garage! Toady for part 3 of our LS engine swap Chuck
will tackle the fuel delivery system, with tips on assembling the hose and more product
recommendations. Hi I’m Chuck Hanson, welcome to Chuck’s garage
and part 3 of our LS engine swap into this classic Chevelle chassis, now if you’re joining
us for the very first time, let me give you a quick recap, what we did is we snagged an
53 LS engine out of an 03′ Tahoe and we made it up with 4L60E automatic transmission, then
we went ahead and mounted the whole deal using engine mounted adaptor plates from Hooker
and an oil pan from Holley, then we followed up with this midram intake from Holley and
their 90 millimeter throttle body. Now when I last left off we still needed to
get the throttle position sensor and the IC valve, which I went and picked up at the parts
store, we can install them and we’re good up here now, we’re ready to go ahead and assemble
the rest of our fuel deliver system. Well now if you caught the first episode of
this LS engine swap, you might recall that I said we’re actually gonna fire this thing
up before we had the body on, now once we do get the body on, this is the set up that
we’re gonna use, this tank actually comes from a company called Tanks INC, and the reason
I like it is because it will bolt up and it will look real stock, but beyond that it’s
got a fuel tank sending unit here, it’s 90 ulm, so it will work perfectly with your factory
gas gauges inside the car, and it also comes with a submerged fuel pump, now this is universal
too, so you just cut these tubes to the appropriate length depending on the depth of your tank
there, and once you you do that you just plug it up, you wire it up with 2 wires on the
outside here, and they have a return and a pressure side, that’s all there is to it. Now one of the other reasons that I like this
tank is because on the inside, surrounding that pick up for the fuel pump, these’s actually
a sump in there, and what that’s going to do is keep the fuel from sloshing around,
which is real important if you get into a low fuel situation, or if you like to autocross
your car or stuff like that, it will keep that fuel from sloshing around, keep that
pick up submerged in fuel, and you won’t have any fuel starvation problems. Now since we can’t use this set up until we
get the body mounted, let me show you what I’m going to use in the meantime. So here’s our temporary fuel delivery system,
what we’ve got here is Holley’s HP billet aluminum pump. Now this thing is nice and quite, and it will
accept -8 O ring fittings, and we’re gonna use this adaptor here to get it down to the
-6 lines that we’re gonna be using later on. Now we’re also gonna use pre and post pump
filters, they come in 100 and 10 microns, now obviously the 100 is used before the pump
to reduce the possibility of debris getting inside of it and causing any internal damage,
and obviously we’ll want to use the finer 10 micron filter after the pump to keep any
other debris from getting inside of the injectors causing any problems there. Well that’s the set up, now even if you don’t
plan on using an in-tank set up like we plan on, this ought to be more than enough for
anything you want to throw at it, now let me show ya how to put those hoses together
and how we’re gonna hook all of this up. Now we’re using pro-lite 350 here, but the
same basic process applies to all stainless hoses here, once you’ve determined what your
length needs to be, go ahead and wrap where you want to make your cut with some tape. Now we’re using duct tape here, but you can
use making tape or anything that will suffice to keep the hose from fraying once you start
cutting. Now we’re gonna cut this using a cut off wheel,
and that will make a nice clean cut here. Now you just remove the tape, and we can get
ready to install this fitting, now we need to take the fitting apart, and we’re gonna
feed the cut end into here, and twist it into place. Now you want to keep the hose fed inside of
there until it’s about an 8th of an inch from bottoming out there inside of this hex fitting. Now we’re gonna add a bit of lube here, help
things go together, and we’ll insert the end inside of here, and just start to thread it
into place. Now you can place that hex fitting inside
of your vice here, if you don’t have aluminum jaws here you can just protect the aluminum
fitting there with a piece of plastic or a piece of rag or something like that, and then
you just start tightening the fitting down into that hex. Now you just repeat the process on the other
end and what you’ve got there is a pretty cool little connector. Now these -8 adaptors here have little O rings
on them, so all you’ve got to do is lube them up with a little bit of oil there, and we
screw them into the filter here, making sure that we keep track of the direction of flow
with the arrows there, and then, lastly we hook it up to the pump. Now this is a pretty cool little deal here
as you can see we have all our arrows going in the right direction here, we got our pre
filter and our post filters, now we need to figure out how to mount it. We’ve mounted the pump and the filters on
some angle iron, with some holes in it, we’re gonna attach it to the frame with a 5/16ths
bolt and a couple of zip ties. Even though this is a temporary installation
here for our fuel delivery system, I want to keep it as clean as possible so what I’ve
decided to do is use a 45 degree AN fitting here, this will kind of move it up a little
bit and away from the frame rail, and we’ll finish out with some more of this hose here,
what we’ve gonna do is go ahead and cut this to the length that we need, we don’t have
a fuel tank back there yet, so probably what we’re gonna end up doing is dumbing up some
sort of a temporary fuel container and pull our fuel out of that, and well I’m gonna cut
this now to get us back to that point and we’ll be ready to move on to the final part
of the plumbing. Now before we go any further, let me give
you a couple of tips on how to choose your proper pump location, first of all, electric
pumps push fuel better than they pull it, so mount it as close to the tank as possible
and you also want to mount it lower than the tank so you can take advantage of gravity
feed. Well now from the pump and the filter assembly
we’re gonna go directly form there, up here tot he fuel rail. Now once we get to that point, we’re gonna
go ahead and make a cross over from the front of the fuel rail over to the other side then
out that back. Well what we’ve got to do now is get the fuel
from this fuel rail here over to this side, which requires a little quick cross over,
and what we’ve done is use these O ring -6 adaptors here on the end of each fuel rail
and I’ve fabed up a little cross over -6 line here, we’ll get this threaded on here, then
we’ll be ready to move on to the back of the engine. Well now this last line goes over here to
the drivers side fuel rail, once we get that on there, we’ll run it over here to the fuel
regulator, now typically the fuel regulator will mount on the fire wall here, but since
we don’t have a body what I’m going to do is I’m going to fab up a metal plate here,
probably some 8th inch aluminum or something that will bolt right back here to the back
of the head, gives a good mounting place for the regulator and the ECU when we get ready
to mount it, now that’s gonna just about wrap things up for now, I have to fab up that plate
there, now next time you see me what we’re gonna work on is we’re gonna mount the accessory
drive system and the radiator, so make sure you come back and see me. There’s still more to come so be sure to tune
in for part 4, we’ll see you next time.

About the Author: Michael Flood

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