Making Custom Brackets for a 50 inch LED Light Bar Truck Mount

Making Custom Brackets for a 50 inch LED Light Bar Truck Mount

Today we are going to be mounting a 50 inch
light bar on my truck. Let me explain what I have done so far. That piece of duct tape
right there is marking the center of the windshield. As you can see on the light bar itself I have
put a piece of duct tape signaling where the middle of the light bar is so I can just line
the two pieces up. Then I built this contraption between two ladders to help support the light
bar and so the light bar can just be resting on top of this I have put the level on the
center there so I can make sure the level is in the right place for the light bar. The
light bar is going to be level when I mount it. This is just held up with some wood, duct
tape and some scaffolding. Now I’m going to set the light bar in place on the top.
Now that the light bar is in place positioned to where it needs to be. I’m going to put
the level back into place so that the boards always stay level. So right here, this is
how we are going to design the brackets for it. So from the top corner we are going to
screw the brackets in right here on the frame of the truck. It just has to extend enough
so that we can screw it into the side of the light here. So the metal has to be at least
6 inches long. I’m going to kind of curve it to go along with the lip of the metal here.
Then bend it out a little bit so that it will fit. So bend it out, angle it out just a little
bit so that it will mount with the edge of the light bar itself. Now if you bought a
shorter light bar you would have to angle your bracket it in and then curve it up. I’ve
seen some of those with like the 40inch light bars. Since this one is 50 inches and it’s
just a little bit longer then my truck we have to bolt it, angle it, straighten it,
and that’s it! Lots of cars will have similar seams or creases in the frames on either side
of the car. So this crease right here is the exact same on the other side. So you kind
of use those to reference where you want the medal bracket to hold up the light. So mine
is going to go just a little bit over this line. I’m going to make sure that it goes
over the same distance on the other side, to keep it universal. So right now it’s bent perfectly so that
the curve of this won’t ever touch the bracket. I’m going to mark where I can bend it up
so that it will connect where it bolts into the light. Right about there. That will give
it enough clearance for this and allow it to bolt into that. So now I just need to bend
it up so that it’s parallel with this bottom part right here, that mounts into the car. Make sure you are using the correct drill
bit for the bolt that goes into the side to hold up the light. You want a bit that will
cover up all of the threads. You can see on this particular bit that you can see some
of the threads on the top and on the bottom of the bit. So I’m going to go ahead and
switch to a bigger bit, and that will make it so that the screw slides right into the
slot with gripping on the threads or destroying any of the threads. Now I can drill a hole
in the side of the mount, since I have it all pinned up against the truck. This is just
like a rough placement right now. When I finally put it on I’m going to put a bit of calk
in-between this and the bolts so that no water of anything will seep inside. Plus I have
to paint it and trim it. So it doesn’t look like just a piece of iron. Now I’m just
going to trim it down a little bit so that it will match with the curves of the truck
perfectly. So that it will sit flatter against the truck. Now I have the light bar bolted
in on this side. Right now I have to get this hole lined up so that the light is level on
the top and its pointed straight forward. So how I’m going to do that; to level it
up and down with the ground is pretty easy; I just need to raise and lower the light bar
until the little bubble is in the middle. So it needs to go up a little on this left
side. Then as far as pointing straight forward I’m going to make sure that the gap between
the windshield and the light bar itself is uniform on the whole side. So I have to do
that both at the same time while I am getting this in place to figure out where to drill
the hole on this bracket. Now before I install the finished bracket in place. Which is this
guy, now that it’s all painted up. I’m going to take some clear silicone sealant,
and just go ahead and put it on all the little holes, that way it won’t leak and it won’t
get water inside of the truck and it will help kind of weather proof it a little bit.
Now the silicone is in place and I can go ahead and install that bracket. The mount
is installed. Super sturdy. The reason I use a couple different kinds of screws is because,
even though these are both 2 inches they are slightly a different length and I wanted to
make sure that the nuts on the inside were able to stay on. You can kind of see the nuts
right there. The reason I used these two darker screws is because they are a harder grade
of screws. They are more durable, but they didn’t come in the two inch length that
I needed. Those ones as well are tied in with nuts there in the back. So on the wiring harness
this end right here with the black and red cables this is what attached to the ground
which is somewhere on your frame, and this attaches to the battery terminal. Then these
ends go inside the cab. That end right there connects to the light bar itself and then
this end connects to the little switch that turns the light bar on and off. So what I’m
going to do is I’m going to take these ends and stick them inside. In the fire wall there
is a little hole right there. You can see that I already have one wire coming out from
my car alarm. So I’m just going to take both of these and stick them through that
hole and they are going to end up inside the cab underneath the dash board. As far as wiring
goes I mentioned before that I came back out through the firing wall. Then I screwed this
on just through a mounting bracket. You know just to something that something else was
mounted onto. Then I have the grounding screw right here that some of my other things like
my stereo and HAD lights are grounded to. Then I just took the power and wired it into
the power terminal of the battery. As soon as you do that this little guy right here
will turn red. Then you can just press the button and the light will turn on and off.
So as far as the wiring for the light goes I just drilled a little hole into the cab
a little bit bigger than the cable and I have also siliconed that as you can tell. So the
silicone is going to keep the water out. It’s not the most beautiful job but I can clean
it out in a second. On the inside of the cab I have that big black wire coming down here,
and this is for my car alarm. Then I have connected them here and run it down underneath.
I’m just going to clean all that up and then stuff it all up underneath the firewall.
The switch, which is what turns on and off the lights. I’m probably just going to mount
this right here kind of out of the way cause that light is going to be on all of the time
and I don’t want that blinding me so I’ll just have it right here where I can just reach
down and click it whenever I want. Surprisingly enough the weather stripping went back on
even though all those nuts and bolts are in place. So the whole thing is still going to
be relatively quiet and water proof because the weather stripping fits on. If it would
have fit. I would have just cut it here and here and left the weather stripping on, on
either side instead of where the bracket is. Alright so now for the cotter pins on the
side. I assumed that this would rotate fairly easily, but actually when you clamp these
down I actually have a lock in washer inside of here as well and one on the other side
as well. When you clamp it down it actually holds really tight. I’m not super worried
about it. The cotter pin idea was that I could take a really long one, and just stick it
inside that little hole right there and as it goes into the hole it will go thought the
little slides in the heat sink. Just like that. You can’t really see it because of
the camera angle, but it’s going right in-between these little fins right here. Since there
in one on this side and one on that side it’s going to keep it level straight up and down
or whatever position that I angle it at. So I can take the pin out rotate it down and
put the pin back in. obviously with this camera you can’t tell a whole lot cause it doesn’t
pick up all the lights from the head light, but you can tell a huge difference when the
50 inch light bar is on. One more time in a cemetery so you can see that the normal
headlights can show about 3 headstones out, and then with the 50inch light bar you can
see quite a bit farther. If you’re interested in buying a 50inch light bar I have linked
down below. The one I bought was about $250. So pretty cheap. That’s it! If you have
any questions don’t forget if you have any if it helped you and don’t forget to subscribe.
Thanks for watching.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Great video! Thanks for taking the time to show how you made your custom mounts. I'm thinking about getting a curved 54" LED light bar for my truck and I'm not a fan of most of the mounts I've seen so far. I may adopt some of your techniques and try to make my own… again, thanks for sharing and have a Happy Thanksgiving!

  2. Great DIY Video, Not sure how im gonna do it but at least i have an idea, now thanks to you.  Have you though about selling brackets for other trucks.

  3. Don't ground your alarm, system, or light bar to the body of your truck dude. Always ground to the frame. Also did you really just drill a hole in the pillar and silicone around the wire? Rubber grommets are very cheap and don't look so… Well, jerry rigged! Smh

  4. Whal8y drives a BMW and listens to rap and probably has those annoying HID ballast kits installed. Who's the douche now, lol!

  5. I had a lot of washers lol so I took a lot out and went down to 3 washers the smaller screw that came with the bar and then I switched the locking washer for another locking washer that has teeth like a saw blade and it still spins.

  6. Great DIY. Doesn't the reflection off the windshield, wipers, and hood drive you nuts? I'm trying to come up with an idea to make a visor right under it to get rid of the glare. 

  7. Must be a douche? Ur blinding ppl. Moreover, I saw a truck comp and they made the stupid team that had this … Turn it off.

    But who knows. I could be wrong,

  8. Moreover. I don't have a truck with a led lightbar. So why would I comment about it? Please, get over stupid crap. Blinding ppl which ppl here have on their dumb SUVs is getting old. Led light bar is now something that idiots in scottsdale are doing and cops aren't stopping them.

  9. I like your video man..I'm going to get the led bar…Curved…liked better than the straight one..Also thanks for uploading a video from the beginning. .. if get the brackets or not your video will help me to put it level . because I didn't know. New to this Thanks again man

  10. Thanks for the video man! I wanna grab one of these for my Durango but I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for the mount. It'll be mainly for the beach and night fishing with some buddies.

  11. I have a 52 inc light  bar and the top of my truck top is 54  inc  I hope  it  works out I just need the brackets   I have ben looking on ebay and I can get them for about 80 dollars   or someone can make some for me   and thanks  for this video     

  12. Nice job. i will be using thinner steel. thank you for making this video i have been trying to think of a way i am going to mount my 50" light bar to my Grand Cherokee with out having to pay 50$ for pre-made brackets.

  13. I am so glad I stumbled across this channel while researching iphone 6 glass only replacement. I had no idea you did stuff other than cellphones, I actually thought it was kinda odd with the name of the channel to only be cellphones but never looked at other videos, I just subbed. I am like you Jerry (if that is your name lol) I am into a little bit of everything. In the day time I repair cellphones/tablets/computers/other electronics, on week nights I am a general purpose handyman whether repairing/installing doors, plumbing, crane parts, cars, or even lock picking, and on the weekends I am a welder. Whats sad is all the work I do is pretty much free. Hell at the cellphone repair shop I only get paid commission and I rarely even get to do that, most of my work is fixing warranty items (yes we actually warranty our repairs) that my co-workers screwed up, sometimes I screwed something up but most of the time its the other people.

  14. your only error i see at the moment was that you used normal silicone instead of marine silicone and didnt used locktight nuts. but good job so far!

  15. I like your handy work on the 50 inch light bar brackets, was wondering if you have made any for a tundra one makes them 4 Toyotas , I have a 2012 tundra and woulk like a set if you can make the but also reasonable, let me know

  16. @JerryRigEverything I don't know how how soon it will be, but I was wondering if maybe you'd be interested in making some custom brackets for a non-curved 50" LED bar for a storm chase car. We need a set of brackets for the front and rear. Highly interested.

  17. My 96 tacoma doesn't have that hole in the firewall. Am I going going to have to carefully drill one or is there another way to about it?

  18. Hey bro , looks like a good job. I like how low you have it mounted, basically on the top of the windsheild. Did you make your own brackets because you couldn't find any that mounted the bar where you wanted? Or jus to save a little $. I was thinking about getting one but I don't want the thing sticking up 3" off the roof.

  19. Nice rig!! I have watched your video several times cause I have the same body style taco and a 42" light bar I recently purchased. I want to custom build my own brackets, like another post said, I dont want the light bar sticking out really bad. I had a couple of question, how far of a gap do you think you have your bar from the truck/windshield? Also, how low or high is the bar from the window weather stripping. I plan on using a 1/8" metal compared to your 1/4". Any suggestions on anything you've done or would of done?

  20. pretty good. just a tip though. make a template with cardboard first. easier to trim and adjust with scissors. then trace onto your steel and cut out the final product.

  21. JerryRigEverything, how bright is that LED bar. I am looking to buy one and especially seeing the major price difference I'm concerned about quality.

  22. JerryRigEveryThing, I just bought myself a light bar, and was wondering how difficult it was to make those mounts? I really like how they look and wouldn't mind making some myself. And is that 1/8th inch plate or smaller?

  23. Do you have an extra battery mounted as well? It appears this particular light bar is 240Watts. I'm wondering if  a single battery can handle it?

  24. Nice job man! Im lucky that they actually offer a cheap bracket for my silverado and I got the easy way out. You also saved a lot of money as those brackets are up to $169

  25. I'm curious would using a steel monobolt or perhaps a alum self sealer work better than bolts/nuts for both sealing and how much it "sticks out" for weather stripping? Also if the 1/4 is that strong I wonder how 1/8 would hold up, I'm thinking this as 1/8 is easier to beat into shape and would be quite a bit cheaper. One tip you should mention for those wanting to save money find a local metal shop and go buy their scraps….will be dirt cheap and they will be happy to sell it to you at a fair price.

  26. Thanks a lot. I'm having a hard time getting my light bar not to swivel forward or backwards. I'm going to try drilling that small hole in my bracket and use your cotter key idea.

  27. To start I am not knocking your work at all, But the steel is way to thick, and they need to be set back on your roof more, reason Im saying this is because I bet you get a ton of glare, not only from the hood but mainly from the windshield. Your vision would be 5xs better. Be careful you dont brush up on a tree or a thick branch with that thick mount because you will bend the windshield arm and shatter the glass, Ive seen it hapen. But Good Job anyway. STAY BLESSED BB

  28. in my experience i prefer to use aluminium because is more easy to work with, and you dont get any rust with time because of the rain or water, metal always get rusty even if you paint it with time you always going to get some rust on it but with aluminium you dont going to have that problem

  29. So this method will pretty much work on any truck? Because I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra and I bought a 50 inch curved led light bar and I can't find windshield mounts anywhere for it. I was going to just buy one for a ford or gmc and just modify it but I'll try out your method first. You make really helpful videos and I will definitely be subscribing. Keep up the good work bud

  30. Hello, is it illegal to use led bar/auxiliary lights when you are driving in traffic? Here in Sweden there are no restrictions, some people have like 500w xenon and 400w led on one single car. And we also connect the cable for high beam to the relay so the led bar starts when we switch on high beam. 🙂

  31. you seriously have videos on almost every project I have to/want to do. it's really warm, unseasonably warm right now so I'm getting a lot done real quick.

  32. Hi, nice job. Dont you think that it lights up the dash, hood and windshieldwipers to much?? Annoying kind of?

    greetings from Sweden

  33. Do you have any suggestions for anti-theft/security for this type of mount? I'm also making my own brackets for my vehicle but I'm concerned with theft. Any modifications or new ideas to improve security?

  34. Sealant is a good way to keep the water out but DO NOT use silicone like in this video. Silicone causes rust so make sure that the sealant is good to use with cars and metals in general. Otherwise it will give you issues.

  35. There is a problem with using the level, you can't be 100% sure that your car is perfectly level with your level tool, so if it isn't, the led mount can look misplaced on the car.

  36. Way too much for just an installation. Just measure up from windshield and in from door. The level is nit needed since both sides of the truck are symetrical.

  37. 1: DO NOT use a bit BIGGER than the bolt (the bolt wont be able to grab the grab metal if you do that)
    2: the "cab corners" are NOT in line on EVERY truck, our 2014 silverado is off center, measure from the corners of the windshield to get a good fit.

    other than that great job man.

  38. Quick question, have you had any bad hood glare from having it so far forward? I've seen other videos where they design it so that the LEDs won't cause any hood glare. How has it worked for you?

  39. good job but my high beams are just as good, ha, dont the cops tell you that its against the law to run that light bar with it uncovered, they dt let us run off road lights on street unless covered

  40. Do you make custom brackets to sell.. I'm looking for brackets for my 2007 jeep liberty sport so I can put a 42 inch 400 watt curve led light bar on it

  41. are you sure those are thick enough? maybe you should have went with half inch to guaranty the door will never even shut ,let alone seal.

  42. Nice work. But test the light bar in the cemetary? You've got some strong nerves. Or I have played too much video games…

  43. how did it hold up, i know that, as of now, you have a new truck but for the time that you had it did the bar work well or get all fogged up and have LEDs die?

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