Polaris Ranger Crew 800 Wheel Bearing Replacement | Polaris Ranger 800 Hub Replacement

Polaris Ranger Crew 800 Wheel Bearing Replacement | Polaris Ranger 800 Hub Replacement

Hello, John Talley here with
Partzilla.com. Today we’re going to be focused in on replacing the front wheel
bearings on our 2011 Polaris Ranger 800 Crew. How do you know yours really need
to be replaced? Well, I’ll show you in just a couple of minutes. Once we bring
up the front end the front, left and right tires act like they’re
omnidirectional, so they’re in pretty bad shape. And this is going to be fairly
involved to get to– I mean we’re gonna have to pull the front wheel which is no
big deal, release the brake system, and then get to
the control arms to where we can get that hub out. Then we can get the bearing
pressed out in the new one pressed in. Speaking of bearings, let’s go look at
the part number that we’re gonna need to do this. As I mentioned, there’s only one
part number for the left and the right, and we’re gonna go ahead and do both
sides because believe me, this machine needs it. Now the other piece that you
want to get on order is the retaining circlip. You’re going to go through this
much work, you do not want to chance that circlip, the old one, actually popping out
and then having that bearing work its way out through the hub. Now as far as
the special tools? You’re gonna need to get a good bearing driver set as well as–
you need access to a press to get this done. The other thing you want to make
sure that you have or a good pair of jack stands. Because you don’t want to
trust the weight of this vehicle balancing on just a regular jack. Now as
far as any other tools, I will just call those out as we go along so that’ll
reduce your trips running to and from the toolbox. Well, now that we’ve got our
parts and our tools ready to go, let’s get this thing knocked out. Before we lift it up, let’s go ahead and
break the lug nuts loose. On this particular unit, these are aftermarket
rims so my my lug size is gonna be a little bit different than yours. But,
nonetheless, let’s go ahead and get these things broken loose then we’ll lift it
up. When you’re placing your jack stands, make sure that they’re actually going
under the frame itself. You don’t want to have one come through your floorboard. Before
we take the wheel off, this is what I wanted you to see: just how bad this
thing was handling. I mean, look at that. Gee, think we’ve got some worn components
in there? Imean, what a mess. Now that we know what the problem is,
let’s get that wheel off and get this thing straightened out. I want you to
take a look at this. There’s a whole lot of play and the majority of it is on the
bearing that we’re about to replace. Now there are other components that are worn
as well, but we’re gonna address those in a different video. So if you need help
with that, why don’t you reference this unit’s playlist
and I can walk you through how to take care of those. Now to remove the caliper
and the bracket as an assembly, just need a 15 millimeter. What we’re gonna do is
pull this loose and I’ll use a bungee cord or a zip tie and just hold it up
out of the way because I don’t want it dangling down off of the brake line. And
at this point, leave the control arm bolts as well as the the steering
knuckle– leave those attached because we want this to stay as stationary as
possible when we go to pull off this end cap and then the nut on the inside, which
is actually on the end of the the half shaft, the drive shaft that goes all the
way through it. Or CV shaft if if you will. Now it looks like somebody’s
already worked on this one once because I know from Polaris that is not the way
they bend their cotter pins. So somebody’s been in here before.
That being said, be careful if yours has been messed with because
if you take it apart a certain way, you’re gonna remember it. And you may be
remembering it the wrong way. Now if yours has been tampered with and
you’re not sure that they put it back correctly, you may want to verify it, and
the best place to do that is to look at our exploded diagrams. That gives you a
picture of what all is supposed to be in there. And look at it part by part, nut
bolt, washer, to make sure that they actually put everything back in there
that should be there. That’s what I’m gonna be doing. I probably should have
mentioned this before we pull the brake calipers off. I have an impact. if you do
not, and you need to break this loose, what you can do is actually put the tire
back on and knock out that center cap on your wheel. That way you can get in there
with the vehicle sitting on the ground and break it loose. But we’re already in
the air, I have one of these, so it should just buzz right off. That was
real easy and I’m betting that wasn’t anywhere close to what torque should be
on there. I know enough about electrical work to know that this is a three
quarter inch EMT conduit lock nut. I’m pretty sure that Polaris did not use
this when they put it together. Why in the world they did this I, I can’t even
fathom. Here’s my theory at this point. Guys, I think somebody replaced the half
shaft of the entire unit and they picked the wrong one. Oh you poor thing. Let’s–
here’s what we’re gonna do next. Good grief.
Let’s go ahead and pull the the steering arm. Now typically, there would be a
cotter pin that goes through this point right here. Well it’s not there. No big
deal. But what you have is a 15 millimeter nut down here and a 13 up top.
Generally when I pull these apart, or anything for that matter,
if there are washers and nuts and bolts I’ll usually put them back together the
way they came off. That way I’m not searching for them when it
comes time to reassemble it. Now all we need to do is just remove this upper and
lower through bolts that are actually pinching down on the control arm ball
joints. It’s just 13 on either side. Now we
should be able to push it down enough or at least from the top. Now let’s get the
bottom. Gee, I wonder if that bearing had a problem. Well now that we’ve got
everything apart, let’s start looking at what’s going wrong. Now what they did
have is this washer and of course that EMT piece. And this washer actually
should be beveled and more importantly there should be two of them. So this
should have kind of a slope to them. So that’s that’s the biggest problem we
have right now. But while we’ve got it apart, let’s see how much damage it
really did because it didn’t tighten down on the axle, if you want to call it
that, correctly. We want to make sure the hub it’s not been damaged. This is your
race. It should be going here, and I’d say that’s a fair amount of play. I mean, that
is way too much clearance. So the question is, is it the chicken or the egg?
Is it the bearing or is the hub worn down to the point where the new
bearing is not going to tighten down like it should?
Let’s just take a quick look with a new bearing that’s gonna be going in.
Alright, look at that. Alright that is a brand-new bearing
and I’m rocking it easily a quarter inch. So this hub is gonna be junk because all
of this was caused by not having the correct cone washers on the outside and
getting it torqued. So like I said, if you don’t do it right, you end up paying the
price later in life. So we know that the hub is damaged, the bearing is trashed,
and chances are this CV end is going to be wallowed out as well. Because they were
all supposed to be tightened down and working together. Well guess what? They
weren’t tightened down correctly and now they’re all worn out and they all have
to be replaced. So that means I have to head back to my office and order a few
more parts. Once everything comes in, within a day or
so, then we’ll go put it back together. Now this is why it pays to go to an
authorized oem distributor for your parts. Otherwise you’re wasting your time and
more importantly, your money. Let’s get the circlip removed and then
we can get that bearing pushed out and get the new one pushed in. And now all
I’m using is just a regular press and then I’m gonna have a cup that reaches
out past this inner edge but not past the outer edge. And that’s going to give
an area for the bearing to get pushed down into. And then on the press side, we
just have a puck that fits down inside of the hub, makes contact with the
bearing, is gonna be able to push it through. There we go. It’s always that
first time when it finally breaks it loose you’re here it go “pop,” then the
battle is over. See all I’m gonna do right now is just spend a little bit of
time, finish cleaning up the hub, then we’re gonna get the new bearing, put a
light coating of red Loctite inside of it, then press the new one in. We’re using
a little bit larger bearing driver because the other one only got to the
the inner race. We need to go out to the outer race but not past it. So make sure
you’re somewhere in this range like I’m using right here. We’re gonna use the
same cup on the backside just to keep things level. But I did have to drop down
the press a little bit so I could get more working room. Try to make sure that
you’re doing this as level as possible so it doesn’t try to walk one way or the
other. Because if it does that, you’re gonna run into problems. That’s
feeling right. There we go. Okay, she’s bottomed, and now we can release. Now you could probably reuse your
circlip, but I’m not going to. Now when they manufacture these, they actually
press them out so that bottom edge is going to be a little bit sharper than
the top. So just kind of feel it to see which one feels more square so to speak.
That’s the one we want facing out. Let’s go ahead and get it in place. Now I
realize what started off as just a simple bearing replacement has morphed
into, you know, several other parts that had to be replaced. One of which is going
to be this outer hub, because as you recall you could take this bearing just
rock it on there back and forth. It was completely worn out. With the new
one, I mean it’s a tight– tighter– fit now. But to replace the hub we need to
transfer over the rotor and then we also need to install our studs. Now it looks
like someone has maybe attempted to remove this rotor before because that
one is scarred up. So that may be a problem child for us. The other ones look
okay. But I want to forewarn you: from the
factory these bolts have red Loctite on there, so this is going to be a little
bit difficult to break loose. What I would suggest you do is use an impact–
not an air impact– with all these hand impacts to at least jar it loose before
we actually put the ratchet on there and see if we can remove it. That was the
easy one. Let’s go ahead and go for that one that’s a little scarred up. Let’s see
what happens. What we’re gonna do is drive it in with the hammer and then hit
it with that impact. And when you’re doing this you want to have a little bit
of counter rotation on it with just your hands. You don’t have one of these, you
need to go pick one up. It will get you out a lot of trouble. Yep, we got lucky
but we are going to replace these. We’ll set that to the side because we
can’t just transfer it over because we’re missing something aren’t we?
Studs. Now you could probably knock these other ones out and reinstall them. I
don’t want to do that. So I’m just going to install new ones. There’s a couple of
different ways you can do this. We can press them in or we can just put a small
socket under the edge or some type of cylinder for it to go through and just
knock them in by hand. I think I’m going to go that route. Now all we need to do
is get this bolted back down and we’re gonna torque them to 18 foot pounds.
There’s no need to apply any Loctite because they actually already applied it
at the factory. They are bottomed out and now we are going to attempt to hold this
thing still and torque them to 18 foot pounds. That’s it. Let’s get this thing
mounted back up. When we started this, we were going to do just the wheel bearing
but it didn’t turn out that way. This turned into a wheel bearing, and then it
turned into that outer hub, and now it’s turning into a CV joint as well– or CV
axle if you will. So we’re gonna go ahead and put a new one in. We’re gonna put a
little bit of grease on the end of this, pop it in, then we can bring the hub over
and get it mounted back up. Polaris recommends that you put in some
anti-seize on these threads. I’ve always found it easier just use a high temp
grease and that’s what I’m going with. Simple enough. While we’ve got it out and
it’s clear, let’s put some grease on the output shaft splines. We’ve got our
steering knuckle ready to go with our new bearing, let’s get it mounted back up.
When you’re putting in these bolts, there’s a groove that it has to go into
so you may need to adjust it up or down to find that groove. Because if you’re
too far down, it doesn’t want to go. See? So bring it up, find that that notch
right here, and that’s where the bolt will slide past. One down.
Same scenario. Find that groove. Pop it in. 13 on either side. We’ll go ahead and
bring these in with just a regular ratchet and then we’ll bring over the
torque wrench and put 23 foot pounds on them, both the top and the bottom. Let’s
go ahead and mount the steering arm. Just the whole thing still as we put this
together. Go ahead and get our shock back in place. And I realize that this bushing is
damaged, but that is a topic for another video.
I’m gonna bring these in and then torque them down to 30 foot pounds. Now let’s
get our hub on. I’m putting grease around the outside of the hub as well as down
into the splined area. Now we already greased our new CV shaft, but a little
bit more won’t hurt in here. Because if you don’t do this, and there may come a
time when you need to pull this back off. It could be a torn CV boot or you put
enough miles on it to wear it out again, and there’s not grease in here? Well
guess what it is gonna get in there? Water. Then it’s gonna rust and you’re
gonna have a whole lot of fun trying to pry these two apart. Now this is what the
washers are supposed to look like. I don’t know if you can tell, but they have
a bevel to them. They’re actually two of them. I’m gonna get them in place and
then we are going to torque it to 80 foot pounds. When I say “it” I mean this
castle nut. There’s a couple of different ways you can do this. One, I could put the
brakes on, have somebody hold the brakes, that might do it. Sometimes it will,
sometimes it won’t. I’ve seen them where they actually
slipped. Second, we could wait until we put everything together. You leave the
center cap off on your tire, drop the unit down, then torque it. We are gonna
try something a little bit slicker I think. What we are going to do is use
this punch going through the rotor into our mount. But what I don’t want to have
happen is that it damaged the threads when we
torque it. So we’re gonna do put a few wraps of electrical tape right where
this part’s going into those threads to cushion it. Bet you haven’t seen that
one before, huh? There you go. Okay, next let me show you how Polaris
usually does their cotter pins. They put the long side on the inside, drop it in,
and then they just bend both of them up together like that. Okay, next we’re gonna
put the caliper back on and we’ll go ahead and get it on the rotor,
maybe get our bolts started. Let’s dial our torque wrench back down to 30
foot-pounds. Now we just need to go in and torque down the tie rod end bolt up
to 40. The top of the actual bolt is a 13 millimeter, and the nut is a 15. And then
there’s actually a cotter pin as a safety precaution that goes in at the
very bottom. Which this one didn’t have when we took it apart, but it’s going to
when it leaves. There we go. Look at the difference now. Can’t move that at all. So
all of those warn parts added up to a whole lot of play and all these new
parts at the correct torque and this thing’s gonna handle like it’s supposed
to do. Alright guys this is gonna wrap up this video, but as you can tell I still
have some more work to do. Now if you have an aluminum wheel, torque it to 30.
If you have a steel wheel, take it to 35. And I still have to put the bumper
assembly back on, but I have a little bit more work to do on the other side so I
don’t want to just take it back off. Well listen, if you need any parts for your
machine, why don’t you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken
care of. If you like what you see, why don’t you go ahead and hit that
subscribe button that way you can keep up with whatever I’m working on next. We
just want to say thank you for shopping here with us at partzilla.com, and we will see you in the next video. Y’all have a great day.

About the Author: Michael Flood

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