Project: Toyota Rush TRD Sportivo 3 – Vanity Mirror Lights DIY Fix

Project: Toyota Rush TRD Sportivo 3 – Vanity Mirror Lights DIY Fix


What’s up again, guys? Yo, it’s me, your friendly neighborhood Dovahkiin and welcome back to Project: Toyota Rush TRD Sportivo. And, before we begin, be sure to hit on the Subscribe button for more great videos. Yes, in my previous episode, I said that my next vid is gonna be about my 1st 1K km PMS and I’m supposed to release this vid after the PMS episode. But for the greater good of the Rush community, I decided to share this DIY fix earlier. I don’t have to elaborate on the Rush’s Vanity Lights problem ‘cause everyone in the community knows about it. All I can say, it’s a perfect example of bullcrap design. But I’m here to solve the problem so let’s just jump right in. If you have this issue, the protocol is to go to your Dealership and have it replaced without worry ‘cause this is covered by Warranty. But before that, you need to kill the lights. Otherwise, you might drain your battery or melt some parts of the Mirror assembly. There are 2 ways to turn it Off. The 1st one is via detaching a Fuse and the other is via opening and tweaking a component in the Mirror assembly. Ok, on the Fuse method. 1st, consult your Owner’s Manual on how to access the Fuse panel behind the Glovebox. On the Diagram, just take note of the Dome fuse which is 5A. Now, use the Fuse Puller to remove it, as simple as that. The downside of this one, all Interior Lights will be disabled as well: The Front Map, Mid Dome and Luggage Compartment lights. Then, follow protocol by bringing your Rush to your dealer. Ok, let’s move on to the method that doesn’t kill all your lights but a more ballsy approach nonetheless. But before that, prepare these Tools: 1. Zip Ties. 2. Our OEM Reversible Screwdriver. 3. A pair of Long-nose Pliers and, lastly, a Knife. Alright, 1st, loosen the bottom part of the Mirror panel with the Knife. If you are confident in your knife, also use it as a lever to pop out the panel. Otherwise, switch to the Flat head of the Screwdriver. Be careful ‘cause you don’t wanna chip the plastic. Now, the reveal. Take note of this component ‘cause it’s the one causing trouble. Next, you can simply unscrew any of the 2. I chose the Left one, ‘cause IDK, simply because I can clearly see where it’s leading to. BTW, I think this screw itself is connected to the main Negative line. Anyway, secure this loose wire underneath the Copper Bar to prevent it from touching other components. Then again, follow protocol by visiting your dealer. Now, if you’re not a DIY person, end the video here. But if you wanna go in-depth on the design flaw of this thing and how to fix it, ride along with me. Ok, I did strongly advice to go with protocol and have this replaced at the dealership but, I think, though I’m not a 100%, the replacement part is the Same model. And, if you’ll understand the blueprint of how this thing fails, you’ll realize that replacing it with the same thing is pointless. Alright, let’s just call the red faulty Positive component as the Switch. The switch takes input from the movement of the Cover. It goes down and makes contact with this component when opened. Goes up, disengages contact when closed. Simple. However, what you’re seeing right now is a busted switch ‘cause it should be positioned exactly like this, flush within the 2 Frame-like Markers. And, the Long Arm of the switch should be between these 2 Rectangular Pins. Now you ask, how the heck did it move down there? The switch is held by Round Pins, similar to this one. However, they are not strong enough to tolerate the forces exerted by the mere repeated action of opening and closing the cover. My Rush is less than 2 months old and the Round Pins are already MIA. They were sliced clean off by the switch itself. And thus, we arrive at my DIY fix. But 1st, a Disclaimer. I’m not forcing anyone with this. This is my way and I’m just sharing it. You always have the freedom to think and act as you please. So, imitate at your own risk. Ok, I was overthinking for solutions, such as, drilling holes and securing the switch via screws, disabling the switch, extending the line and improvising a new switch and the list goes on. But, ultimately, I settled for a simple fix. Remember the Zip Ties? Yes, that kind of fix. I inserted a Zip Tie down here and extracted it up there. To make the extraction easier, bend the tip of the tie. Then, use the Long-nose to pull it out. This requires a lot of patience. Next, position the switch inside the Frame-like Markers and make certain that the Long Arm is between the 2 Rectangular Pins before you tightly fasten the tie. It should look something like this. Next, cleanly cut the excess tie and test if working as intended. If it does, Subscribe to this Channel, Like this video and follow this Playlist. Obviously, Zip Ties don’t last forever so you can choose to add more ties as long as they fit inside the assembly. The advantage of this over the stiff Round Pins is that ties are made of flexible Nylon. If the switch moves back and forth horizontally, it’s fine ‘cause no sharp part of it is touching the tie. Moreover, what really matters is the fixation of the Long Arm between the Rectangular Pins. As long as it’s sandwiched there, the switch won’t fail. Now, I’m gonna show you the efficacy of this DIY fix by subjecting it to my brand of moderate to rigorous testing. That was, indeed, quick and precise. I think, now it’s better than the OEM. Anyway, problem… beyond solved. And, that’s all there is for now. Thanks for watching! Also, check out other videos from Sabbath Clan Philippines and Subscribe. See ya on my next vid! Peace out…

About the Author: Michael Flood

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