Screw extractor | easyout | broken bolt removal

Screw extractor | easyout | broken bolt removal

these are called screw extractors but
most people know them as easy-outs and these are used when you get a broken stud or
a broken bolt in a hole like that so here we’ve got a small shaft and in the
end there is a broken bolt and we need to actually get that out so ideally what
you try doing first is drilling that with a left and a drill bit and you
probably will be able to spin that out but in a lot of cases if you’ve not got
a left handed drill bit if you drill it out and you still can’t get the actual
bolt out you have to resort to trying a set of these you success with these can
vary sometimes they work sometimes they don’t if they don’t work you have to
drill the stud completely out and then re-tap the hole if they do work
fantastic you can often just get away re-tapping the hole and then you can put
a bolt back in there again so the first thing we need to do is to centre punch the
center of the broken bolt on a small bolt like this it is extremely difficult
but we’ll do our best so that’s roughly the center so I’m just
going to tap it there and that was actually a little bit high so I’m just
going to go a bit lower and we’ll just tap it again and I think that’s a little
bit close to the center so now we’re going to take a small centre drill and
we’re going to drill that in the center so I’ve now selected a drill bit that is
slightly smaller than the screw extractor that we’re going to use so I’m now going
to drill that all using that drill bit and you probably saw that the actual
drill bit is bit into it and it’s driven the stud further into
this shaft so I’m still going to have to drill it out and then we will see if we can use the screw extractor on it so I’m sure that we’ve drilled in there
deep enough now so I’ve got the screw extractor I’m going to put it into the
hole that we just drilled then I’m going to tap it in and then if we take a small
spanner then apply pressure to it and turn it in an anti-clockwise direction you can see that it has actually worked
and it has actually extracted the broken stud so in a lot of cases you’ll do this and
it’ll be extremely difficult you’ll spend their ages messing about
and it won’t work anywhere one thing you’ve got to be really careful of is
breaking the actual screw extractor in the bolt because if you do that you then
in a lot of trouble because these are actually hardened and you will really struggle
then so that’s basically how to use a screw extractor or an easy-out but
like I said you will have limited success by using this method sometimes
it’ll work sometimes it wont this one was a particularly easy one and I have
used these in the past and they have worked other times they haven’t and I’ve
ended up just drilling the hole completely out and re-tapping it so
the easy out actually works by having a left-handed thread on it so when you put
that in there and tap it and then when you unscrew it in an anti-clockwise
direction they’ve actually bites in to the actual stud and that’s what enables
you to remove it so sometimes they work sometimes they don’t but it’s always
worth giving it a shot

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Have you ever used drill all drill bits? There's alot of mixed reviews online about them. Any chance of a video on them in the future?

  2. Awesome video… Please tell me what size that bolt was? I have 14mm broken bolt stud in my car's sway bar bushing bracket, so what size of extractor or easy out do I need ? and what size of drill bit do I need? also shouldn't it be a left hand drill bit?

  3. They are much better ones now, all you do it centre tap then the tool is all in one after that. Left handed drill bit to extractor. Works for me almost all the time.

  4. Did you say CENTER drill at the beginning? I'll look that up but I've never heard the term. Okay, I've now ordered a set of center drills from Amazon. I've seen many videos on using extractor bits, but none of them mentioned using a center drill. On the other hand, most of the time, my extractor drills don't do the job. Maybe your video will turn the tide. EDiT: Another thing you did that I've never seen before is to drill in after using the center drill but BEFORE using the extractor bit. I'm beginning to think that I should have come here first. You take about twice as many steps as are usually recommended with screw extractors. Let's hope that you're also twice as effective as with those methods.

  5. Thanks for this inspires confidence (not least from one Yorkshireman to another). The devil is in the detail ie centre punch first and also tap in the extractor firmly before turning. I have a similar 10mm steel bolt shaft to remove from an Audi alloy wishbone (brake hose mounting plate retaining bolt) that simply twisted the head off like butter. Do you suggest also soaking in penetrating fluid 2-3 days before making the extraction and maybe just after the bolt is drilled so the fluid can get to the threads from the inside. Cheers

  6. Thank you. I have several bolts broken off inside garden chairs. I apologise for my comments on your channel below, to the foul minds.

  7. I have a stud on my motorcycle exhaust port that is being very difficult to remove. Its not snapped off completely flush like the one in the video, it still has about an inch sticking out.

    Given that its in a hard to reach space, my predicament is similar to if it was snapped off completely, ie I don't have room to torgue on it with a vice grip or something.

    It is also close to seized, but I wouldn't say its completely seized. i can drill it from this spot, or have someone weld on a nut for me. Anything you would recommend?

  8. You don't need a tradesman to do the work all the time. Someone who learns a different way without a stamp is fully capable of doing the work. Just a smart ass tradesman making a statement on youtube makes me want to learn to say piss off.

  9. Ive got a few small screws that have been shered off in to my rim whitch was holding on to my hub cap hoping that this idea works. Any ideas would be great to here too.

  10. Why is the newly removed old bolt shiny on the opposite end of the easy out from being cut off??…the rest of the entire threaded portion is sorta rusty aged, but the very end is very shiny…something fishy about that threaded portion screwing in while drilling…stuck so bad the srew breaks off but so loose it screws in??😒😒😒

  11. Lol your bolt turned while you were drilling it. If only all bolts were so lightly broken off in the threads like yours was.

  12. Legend! Thank you great video. I had a nightmare with a snapped off terrible quality 'titanium' bolt in handle bare stem of my road bike. I noticed your bolt stated to screw in when you drilled with the larger drill bit. Well I tried same and was able to drill and screw it straight out the other side . Soo so happy. 🙂 thank you

  13. 2:35 – I would have reversed the drill to see if it'd drag the broken stud out. If not, I'd try the screw extractor: if the drill will push it in, the broken stud is free, and the screw extractor, despite not having much of a hole to work with, might do the job.

  14. I've used 4 of these! Not one worked. Thankfully, I have enough money to pay somebody to take that entire piece of shit f23a motor and put an h22 in. Nature just wanted me to speed up the process, she was tired of seeing me put around in that garbage.

  15. Finally. I think I had to watch 10 nonsensical awful tutorial videos that simply introduced the problem then skipped to the end, before I found this wonderful video that ACTUALLY SHOWS HOW TO DO IT. Thank you sir for your knowledge and demonstration

  16. Ive got an m7 cylinder head stud sheared off in the block of my scooter .its in solid about 25mm ..what would be ur method of attack?

  17. @Ultimate Handyman, would tapping a left handed thread and using a left handed bolt work better than a stud extractor?

  18. Thanks bro. Your tutorial is really a life saver. I just removed a broken bolt inside my motorcycle engine mounting. Thanks again.

  19. I would advise against the use of the centre drill to start the hole… these bits are designed to only
    be used in a lathe tailstock & the tips are EXTREMELY fragile… don't ask me how I know 😒
    As a machinist of 25 years experience, I can tell u the tip will be very difficult, if not if impossible, to pick out &
    don't even think of drilling it with a cobalt bit as the hard tip will deflect the cobalt bit towards the softer surrounding metal…
    I start with a light centre punch as u did in the vid … then wack a good centre dot when you are happy its fairly well centred…
    Good vid man keep up the good work on a great channel 😎👍

  20. Warning never use a stud extractor
    could turn out to be the most expensive tool in your tool box .
    Break one off and you'll see why
    My EDM has paid for itself twice over thanks to broken taps and stud extractors.

  21. Hey there, excellent video. I snapped a head bolt in an engine (thanks to a defective torque wrench 🤬) and successfully removed it with a screw extractor like this. I made a step-by-step video showing the whole process, so if anyone here wants to see this in more detail then you will find the video on my channel. Cheers, Chris 👍

  22. Wtf! That looked easy. But what about a case where the bolt is rusted and completely sealed from water and oil. I have to take out this last screw so I can take the gasket cap off.

  23. Good video! I'm glad I had a few Scotch Ales before I watched it though, so I could break through the language barrier and fully understand everything you were saying. 😘

  24. Use transfer punch set to get a better placed center punch mark.penitrating oil next.then put center puch in transfer punch divit.hit center punch multiple times.Left hand bit to drill.Put in ez out tap it many times with hammer.Then try to unscrew.I have to extract broken bolts almost daily on my job.

  25. If the bolt was cross threaded in the hole and then broke of. Then most likely screw extractors won't work you are gonna have to drill and insert a helicoil

  26. Really hope I can get my stripped screws out 🙁 m4 flat head hex screws stripped in aluminum with lots of blue loctite. Might not have enough material left if I have to drill it out and re tap

  27. Good video….except most bolts break off like that because they are seized in the hole! He eludes to that in the video….but worth noting….

  28. Serious problem.. what happens when the easy out breaks? Happened twice now and im stuck

  29. I’ve been busting my nuts”no pun intended”for about a month and can’t succeed, I’ve already bought like 3 different sets!

  30. Okay the amount of times this man said bolt really saids how much attention I have to pay to just the bolt not anything he is saying😂😂

  31. Actually you can also keep stepping the drill up a size at a time until you can literally peel the threads out.

  32. Lessons learned:

    “Spanner.” “Anti-clockwise.” I think I need a translated version for ‘Merican!

    And an easy out apparently isn’t so easy.

  33. can I use this method on my steering column to remove the break off bolts that are holding the ignition switch? I tried to score it and tap it counter clockwise but it is just shearing.

  34. do you have to take the head off the bolt before trying the easy out? i have a allen/hex bolt that has rounded out and no other methods are working but the head is still attached. Is it the same process as shown here for a bolt that is not broken?

  35. What you do is take a propane torch, or heat gun and heat up the metal around the perimeter of the bolt, so the metal will expand and the bolt will come out easier

  36. I'd use a left handed drill bit to do the drilling. There's been a number of times the drill bit ended up catching and pulling it out… And if it catches going clockwise, as you saw, it drills it in further, complicating the problem.

  37. Thumbs-up for technique! Now try on a broken rusted 10mm thermostat bolt with 4" clearance! I will post to my page- documenting.

  38. I tried to remove a totally stuck small bolt in an antique Singer sewing machine (1957) – difficult place and impossible to get out. Tried everything else first: heat, WD40 left for over 24 hours, sewing machine oil warmed up – not even the slightest movement. I assume the bolt is made from hardened steel (he machine was actually manufactured in Scotland) – I could not even get further into the bolt head than about 1 mm, so that was that – didn't even get to try the extractor. Not a chance. Does anybody have any suggestions? The shaft of the bolt is about 4 mm diameter.

  39. i tried this i got 2 broken screws on the head where the exhaust manifold screws on. THE EXTRACTOR BROKE WHEN TRiYNG TO UNSCREW IT

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