Single-Stage Urethane Paints on My Classic Car from Eastwood

Single-Stage Urethane Paints on My Classic Car from Eastwood

this is a special treat because today in
the shop I got the eastwood companies resident
mad scientist John Sloan did you enjoy the great to be here again
with you oh well you guys always cooking up something cool and looks to me like
we’re going to talk paints today that’s right and we have this system of
painting using your thing that’s quite a few of them here how many
how many supply we have over 40 now Wow and then in it nice arrays i’m
pretty pretty quick colors now these are all these are all your thin paint so
you’re kind of this urethane system why your thing there are far superior to the
traditional lacquer enamel finishes that hobbyist have used over the years and
the reason for that is that they offer superior chemical resistance UV
resistance and general durability they’re just far superior paint system
use now price wise though I mean you’re think your thing can can be a little bit
pricey yes no absolutely urethane is at a premium price level and compared to
what you would pay at your local body shop ours cost about one-fourth what you
would spend at a supply is that just because you guys are kind of getting a
direct and there’s no way that that’s part of it the reason is yeah we’re dealing direct at the
manufacturer level they custom blend some of the colors just for us and there
they don’t have the advertising or the expenses involved in marketing that the
other big manufacturers have and therefore we can offer the same high end
quality at a hobbyist friendly price we gotta love that we got a friend over
here kind of demoing it’s sort of a stepwise process let’s go to look at that because I think
that’s a great way to kind of . it all out good that’s what Mustang fender here
that’s right and it took she’ll be a part just for this absolutely can’t wait
to put it back with any paint system the ideal approach is to start with clean
bare metal mhm and we got this down to bare metal
and did a little extracurricular activity here with the engine turning
type work and we put a clear coat over just to protect it from corrosion but
normally you would just get it down to the base metal and then go over with an
epoxy primer and that’s what we have here in black now we also have this epoxy primer
available in gray that’s good for nothing and everything
but I can still see some of the defects in the metal that it did not hide that’s right the epoxy is renowned for
its adhesion and durability but it doesn’t build quite as much as a high
build urethane primer and because there’s defects that sometimes it won’t
hide we also offer the urethane primer which
can be applied either directly over the middle or as a great follow-up to the
epoxy primer and then you send that to perfection with the battle 600 800 grit
and and then you can go over with your color is some orange peel in that kind
of that almost factory that almost at factory orange peel yeah even if you don’t like that factory
orange peel you can adjust the gun a little bit better and get a much
smoother yeah and that’s exactly what i did on this test card and then you’ve
gone up and you’ve gone over that with with a clear coat a the clear is a great
protective finish it just gives you a lot of depth to the finish and gives you
a great base that you can then color sand and buff to perfection Wow well it’s a you know let’s talk a
little bit about the the process of getting there because there are some
there are some safety issues and in when you’re painting with any kind of paint
and then especially with the with with your thing so you recommend a good respirator at
the very least the home hobbyist should at least wear a respirator like this
with the activated charcoal filters and a lot of people don’t realize that those
activated charcoal filters are only good for a total elapsed time of eight hours
once you break them out of there airtight seal now if you’re painting a
primer today and then you’re painting a color code a week later the next day or take it out seal it back
up you seal it back up mm you’re okay keep track of time for
skin protection you you guys have the the disposable the bunny suit basically
there’s a disposable paint suit and the headstock and you look marvelous yeah okay well if you want to learn
anything more about this great urethane paint system from eastwood company one
of my classic there’s some really great colors there are and i can
take some applications mac visit Eastwood garage . com your trusted
source for professional auto restoration tools and techniques for over 30 years

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. @67dodgepolara Cool, my brother has a replica K.I.T.T. car and it seriously needs a new paint job (the guy who shot it must have used rattle cans, or didn't know ANYTHING about paint. I've never shot a car before, but I'd do my homework before I did anything.

  2. These products are single-stage urethanes that do not need to be clear coated, but can be. Some of the metallics like the Malibu Sunset and Gasser Green, we recommend the clear coat being added due to the coarse metallic flakes in the finish.

    We do now offer many of these colors in base coat/clear coat formula (these came out after this video was made).

  3. Sometimes I think this company acts like the three big networks. They come out with a product and after a year or so. They drop it like a rock. You come looking for it because you remember seeing it in their catalog. Then you find out they don't carry it anymore…

  4. Do you recommend the 2K Ceramic Chassis Black & Epoxy Primer Kit for inner fender walls and firewall or is there another strong product ?

  5. Thanks for the good video. I'm painting a 34 Ford Coupe in the Eastwood Urethane (primer, base and with a final clear coat) "Bonneville Black Cherry Pearl". Nice stuff but as far as safety goes, when handling and spraying with Urethane it's best to use a Positive Air Flow respirator. The filter mask with charcoal filter shown in the video isn't effective enough. It's best to be safer than sorry. Painters need to understand health risks involved spraying polyurethane paints, checkout Isocyanide

  6. How is this a "single stage" if he used clear.. It's not single stage it's base coat/clear coat 2-stage …

  7. Probably bad, maybe dangerous, info on the charcol canisters for the respirator.  You cannot seal them up after a few hours use then get a few more hours out of them some days later.  The organics that you want protection from diffuse through the activated charcol pack and when you try for the second use they exit the back of the pack and enter your lungs.  Check with the respirator manufacturer.

  8. Since some people fail to read regular print I am going to type the rest of this in all caps.

  9. Hi ! Need Help ASAP ! I mixed 4:1 instead of 5:1 of a single stage PPG DURETHANE DTM 95-3300 Series (no need for reducer), what would be the consequence if i painted that mix on a 3 hours cured epoxy primer ? They were my car calipers… Should i restart all over (sandblasting….) since they are all dismounted ? Any thought ?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *