Tacoma Addictive Desert Designs HoneyBadger Winch Front Bumper (2016-2020) Review & Install

Tacoma Addictive Desert Designs HoneyBadger Winch Front Bumper (2016-2020) Review & Install


Hey guys, today here with the Addictive Desert
Designs HoneyBadger Winch Front Bumper fitting all 2016 to 2019 Toyota Tacomas. So, this will be perfect for that Tacoma owner
who’s looking for a high-quality front bumper that’s gonna add a ton of functionality and
style to the front end of their truck. This will provide full front end coverage
and wrap around the sides meshing really well with the body lines and the fenders. But this is gonna provide full front end coverage
and it’s gonna be able to take a hit with the heavy-duty construction. Perfect for somebody who’s looking for a strong
front bumper that’s gonna provide that extra protection to the front end of their truck. Not to mention with the compact design, this
is gonna allow for a ton of clearance in the front and help out with your approach angles
because of these angled up ends making this perfect for somebody who’s looking for a front
bumper that’s gonna help out their off-road performance. Speaking of that performance, this will also
incorporate utility into the design with the recovery points, the winch plate and all the
light mounting options. Now, what I really like about this is the
fact that this is gonna have universal mounting options and come with all the brackets that
you need to do so. So you can really customize this to how you
want it to be and make your Tacoma stand out. Like I mentioned this will be a high-quality
front bumper. Tere is a lot of thought put into the design
and this is gonna be made of high-quality materials. So, it is going to be a little bit more expensive
than the average front bumper coming in at roughly $1,500. Now, I personally think that that’s a very
fair price considering what this bumper comes with or what this bumper is going to offer
you. This has a very clean statement even though
you do have to do a little bit of cutting, you can customize this to however you want. And this is gonna last a very long time. In comparison to some other options on the
page, this is gonna have a very sleek and compact design. Some other choices for front bumpers maybe
a little bit boxier which will provide some more protection to the front end, however,
this is going to provide you more clearance. So, if you are concerned about your approach
angles, you’re looking for something sleek and it’s gonna last a very long time while
still being able to customize it to your own then this is a really good choice to take
a look at. Install it’s gonna be a two out of three wrenches
on the difficulty meter and we will have to do a decent amount of cutting to fit this
on and get the correct equipment. But other than that, you’re gonna need some
very basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let’s jump into
that now. The tools that I used in my install were impact
wrench, a bungee cord, roll bar and chassis paint, a marker, measuring tape, safety glasses,
painters tape, a pair of needle nose pliers, flathead screwdriver, a trim removal tool,
a panel removal tool , a cut off wheel, a 12 millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 10-millimeter,
12-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 17-millimeter deep socket. A 3-inch extension of 730-second inch Allen
key, a quarter-inch drive ratchet and a 3/8 inch drive ratchet. Our first step is to head underneath front
bumper so we can remove our splash guard as well as our lower bumper bolt. You’re gonna need a 10-millimeter socket and
an impact wrench or a ratchet as well as something comfy to lay on. On our splash guard on either side we’re gonna
have two bolts in the rear. I’m gonna take a 10-millimeter socket and
remove those. After the rear ones are removed we can head
towards the front and remove the bolts that are lining the front of our splash guard. These are also going to be a 10-millimeter
socket. Just like the first two bolts, the last two
are gonna be in the back of the splash guard. After that last bolt is removed, splash guard
should just pop up. Next, we can remove our skid plate by removing
the four 12-millimeter bolts around our skid plate. After those four bolts are removed we can
unhook it from the frame and wiggle it off. So, now with a 10-millimeter socket we can
start to remove the actual bumper bolts. These are gonna be different from the splash
guard bolts. So, what we can do next is disconnect this
bolt that’s connected to our fender here. We are gonna have to pull this out and away
from our bumper. And we also wanna disconnect this clip here,
which is gonna allow us to pull our inner fender liner back so we can access our fog
light. I’m gonna use a 10-millimeter socket for the
bolt and then a flathead screwdriver for the clip. You may need a panel removal tool or trim
removal tool to remove this. After the bottom bolts and clip are removed,
there are two more bolts up at this fender that we need to remove and I’m gonna use a
10-millimeter socket to do so. So, what we can do is remove this pin on the
inside, this is gonna help us wedge our fender liner back and then we can start to pry on
our inner fender liner. So, now that we’ve pulled the fender liner
back enough, what we can do is depress the clip and wiggle out the fog light connector. After we finished on the driver side, we can
repeat the same process on the passenger side. Our next step is to pull our fender away from
the body and our bumper here. This is gonna consist of a number of different
clips. We don’t necessarily need to take off the
whole fender, you can if you want to, but you don’t need to. And that would require a couple more 10-millimeter
bolts on the back, but I am going to take the trim removal tool that we’ve been using
and pull this and kind of give it a good tug to separate it from the bumper in the body. So, in order to pull this back a little bit
more, what I’m gonna do is just take a 10-millimeter socket and remove the bolts that are holding
on the back of our fender. So, after our offenders disconnected, we can
do the same thing on the other side. So, what we need to do now is measure where
we need to cut. So, we’re going to focus on this body line
here right above our fog light, we need to measure two and 7/8 of an inch down from that
body line. So, I just have a marker here, I’m just going
to make a little mark just for my reference. And then what we can do is take that off. What I’m gonna do is try to get a straight
enough line all the way across here and we are going to tape it all the way over to that
junction from the bumper and the fender where that means that the corner. Now, over here as you can tell, this is where
our junction is gonna be. I am going to take the tape and just create
a solid line over to that junction. And start to remove this trim piece before
we cut and that’s gonna prevent us from hitting this outer trim piece and give us a more precise
cut. So, what we’re gonna do at this point is grab
a cut-off wheel as well as pair of safety glasses and cut a quarter-inch down from where
we made our mark. This is gonna leave us a little bit of room
in the future for extra adjustment, we wanna make sure that we don’t cut-off too much material
from our bumper and that’s gonna allow us to do that. So, I have a cut off wheel here as well as
pair of safety glasses. Make sure you wear those and then we’re gonna
cut a quarter-inch down. So, after we’re done cutting over on the driver
side, we can repeat the same process on the passenger side. Now that we’ve cut our actual bumper, what
we need to do is separate this fog light bracket or housing, which is a part of the bumper
from this top part of the bumper. So, there’s a little tab up at the top that
we just need to continue to cut through. And then we can do the same thing on the other
side and pull our bumper all. So, our next step is just to pull our bumper
off, give it a little bit of pressure, and it should just pop right off. So, our fog lights do have a clip on either
side, I’m gonna grab a trim removal tool and we can just pop those off and that should
fully release our bumper. So, after both of those are removed, we can
pull our front bumper off. Before we continue to take apart the front
end of our Tacoma I wanted to stop down and tell you guys a little bit more about this
new ADD front bumper, especially in comparison to the factory setup. This is going to be a lot more durable considering
that your factory front bumper is made of a plastic material. You will on the front bumper or the front
end of your Tacoma have an impact dampener as well as the steel crash bar in the back. However, if you do take a hit to your factory
front bumper, this is made with plastic material so it is going to bend, break or even get
damaged. But when moving over to this ADD front bumper
or an aftermarket front bumper it is gonna be a lot more durable. So, specific bumper by ADD is gonna be made
of a 1/8 thick steel material which will be a thicker material when compared to some other
aftermarket options and will really be able to take a hit when you are off-road or even
when you are out on the street. It also has aluminum panels on the side that
are removable for light mounting options. And this is all gonna be covered in a hammer
coat black powder coat finish, which will protect the steel underneath from any rust. And the aluminum panels are going to be covered
in a gloss black finish, which will prevent the aluminum from corroding. But altogether it’s gonna add a nice contrast
and add a lot of style and aggressiveness to the front end of your Tacoma. This will also have a couple of different
features integrated into the design. You will have a skid plate underneath that
will integrate into your factory skid plate giving you a bit of extra protection underneath. And this will also have high angled sides
which will provide you a lot of clearance when you’re out in the trail or again, just
even driving around on the street. The factory option will have an angled upside
but not as much as this so if you are concerned about your approach angles, this is a really
good bumper to take a look at. This will also come with a couple of different
options for utility as well as versatility. So, like I mentioned before, this will have
light mounting options on each of the side panels, you will be able to mount up a 10-inch
light bar on either side. And in the middle, you’re gonna have multiple
mounting points either for a light bar or just singular cube options. But what I do really like about this, considering
that all of the light mounting options are universal is that you can customize this to
your own liking, and you can set this up however you want. Now you’re also getting a couple of different
options for utility including the 3/4 quarter inch D-Ring mounts right on the front and
this is gonna be perfect for any recovery situations, as well as a winch plate on the
back that will offer a couple of different mounting options and some adjustability within
that. So, this is going to provide a lot more than
your factory front bumper would, considering that there’s not really much going on. The only thing is we’re not gonna be able
to switch over the factory fog lights, but with all of the light mounting options I personally
think that that is a fair trade-off. So, enough about these two side by side, let’s
continue with our uninstall. So, our next step is to remove our impact
dampener. All we have to do is give it a good tug, this
is held on by a couple of clips. There’s gonna be a couple of tabs that you
may have to depress in order to get out, and they’ll kind of be staggered along the bumper. You can put that to the side. So, what we’re gonna do is remove the three
nuts on the studs that are holding on our crash bar. I’m gonna use a 14-millimeter deep socket
as well as an extension to reach the back of this crash bar here. So, there is a supporting arm here that attaches
to our fender liner. What I’m gonna do is take a pair of needle-nose
pliers, pinch this clip here together so we can remove this from the supporting arm. You can do the same thing on the other side
and then we can remove this crossbar. Next, we can remove our mounting hardware. This is gonna be three studs on either side
as well as three 14-millimeter nuts, so I’m gonna use that same 14-millimeter socket while
also using a 3-inch extension to give myself some room. So, next what we can do is remove our tow
hook or our recovery hook here. This is going to be a little bit different
than other models, some models may have an actual hook that is here. There are gonna be two 17-millimeter bolts
that we have to remove because this needs to be out of the way for our skid plate underneath. I’m going to take a 17-millimeter socket and
remove both of those bolts. After those are removed, we’re also going
to remove our bumper extension or frame extension over on the side here. This is gonna be the same for the other side
as well and there’s going to be one 17-millimeter bolt holding it in. So, we can remove that and slide that out
and repeat that frame extension part on the other side. What we can do next is remove our cross members
underneath. These are going to look a little bit different
but basically they’re from the cross member in the back up to the frame in the front or
the cross frame in the front and there are going to be three 17-millimeter bolts holding
each of those in. I’m gonna take that same 17-millimeter socket
that we just used and remove those. Now, you wanna make sure that you save these
bolts because we will be reinstalling these, we just need to take them out for the meantime. Driver side is gonna be a little bit different,
you’re gonna have two bolts in the front and one in the back. Now we can move back up to the front of our
truck. So, what we need to do next is cut this tow
hook flush. So, this is welded on to our cross member
here, so what we’re gonna have to do is actually cut this part off. But I don’t wanna hit our power steering cooler
here and we have to relocate it in just a minute anyway. So, what I’m gonna do is take a 12-millimeter
socket and remove the two bolts that are holding this to our cross member. So, once we remove those bolts, this will
wiggle out of place. What I’m gonna do is hang this actually from
our radiator support or radiator support, and kind of get it out of the way so we don’t
end up cutting this line once we are cutting off of our hook. So, you just wanna make sure that you’re careful
with the fins. And then what I’m gonna do is just hook this
out of the way and place that I can, bungee cord should do the job. And then once that’s out of the way, we’ll
have full room to move with our tow hook here. Now, I’m gonna take my cut-off wheel and start
cutting this hook off, make sure you’re wearing your safety glasses for this. So, after we’ve cut the hook off, we don’t
wanna leave any bare metal exposed. So, I’m gonna heat this with a little bit
of chassis paint and then we can move on to our next step. So, what we can do now is relocate our power
steering cooling system here. So, I’m going to unhook this from where we
were hanging on the bungee, making sure that I’m careful with the fins. Get that out of the way, and then we can attach
our relocation bracket. So, it’s just going to be a very simple bracket. The front bolt is gonna be our factory bolt,
and we’re just going to put that in the factory location. And then we’re gonna relocate the whole cooling
system back farther so it clears the bumper, considering that this part comes out a little
farther and we want to keep it protected behind the bumper, and it’s basically gonna map like
that. So, this is just going to be the factory bolt. We can move this up again and tighten this
down with that 12-millimeter socket that we originally took it out with. We don’t wanna completely tighten it down
just because we wanna be able to line everything up. We’re gonna have a provided Allen head bolt
and will put through the top, down through the bottom and threaded nut. Then you can take a 730-second inch Allen
key. I have an Allen socket and then tighten that
up with the 9/16 inch socket on the bottom. So, we can tighten this up with our 12-millimeter
ratcheting wrench considering it’s a little bit more profile. And then after this is completely tightened,
we can move on to our next step. So, what I’m gonna do next is hold our inner
fender liner in place. We are going to trim this but I want to mark
where we need to trim. So, we’re gonna go along with our body line
here. But I’m just going to make a faint line just
so we have a reference point. So, you can use a utility knife for this however,
since we are already using our cut-off wheel, I find it a little bit easier and quicker
to do it that way. You also make sure that there is nothing behind
the actual liner before you are cutting the wiring harnesses or anything. So, looks like we’re good to go. So, after we’re finished on one side, we can
do the same thing on the other side. So, what we can do next is tape off our fender
and trim this piece of our fender off. Now, we are gonna keep that quarter-inch gap
just for fitness purposes. So, when we mount up our front bumper, in
just a minute, we can figure out what’s the best fitment is. So, with the cut-off wheel, I’m just going
to cut a quarter-inch down from our tape here. And you also wanna make sure that it’s just
straight across so there’s no angle or anything, we just want this to sit flush with our new
front bumper. Lines up fairly good. We can pull that back out, do the same thing
to the other side. So, our next step is to mount it up. Now you want to mock it up first, make sure
that it’s going to fit with all of your trimming and if it does, we can bolt it down with the
provided nuts. So, if it fits what we can do is bolt it down
with the factory hardware. Those are the 14-millimeter nuts that we removed
before. We’re gonna loosely thread these on and as
you can tell in the bumper itself, it does have adjustability. From what I’m seeing up top we will need to
move it up a little bit farther and then tighten it down completely. Now that we have tightened down the outer
nuts, what we can do is tighten down the inner one. This is going to be in the inside of a bumper
here. So you can tighten it down with that same
14-millimeter deep socket. Same thing for the other side. So, we can do is reinstall our subframe using
our factory bolts. So, right now our subframe or our cross members
are not sitting flush because of these two tabs and the one tab on the other side. I’m just gonna trim these to make sure that
they are sitting correctly up against the bumper. So again, I’m gonna take my cut-off wheel,
just do a slight trim. All right. So now those sit flush and we can tighten
them up with the 17-millimeter deep socket. Same thing for the other one. That’s gonna wrap it up for my review and
install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this,
always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

About the Author: Michael Flood

1 Comment

  1. Shop this ADD HoneyBadger Winch Front Bumper: https://terrain.jp/2X9XsTf

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