Tamiya 1/24 Toyota GR Supra 製作記 2 – 青22号

Tamiya 1/24 Toyota GR Supra 製作記 2 – 青22号

Hello, this is Blue22, AO-san. This is a continuation of the assembly work for Tamiya’s 1/24 Toyota GR Supra. In order to paint silver on the parts around the suspension, it is partially masked. There are several areas around the undercarriage that are painted in silver and black. Whether to mask black before painting silver, or masking silver before painting black. It depends on the parts. The parts of this shock absorber mask the place painted in black and then apply silver. Apply silver. Of the parts around the undercarriage, the parts other than the shock absorber parts are painted without any masking. Later, I will mask and apply black again. Already painted black is used as a base for silver. Since the engine is not reproduced in this kit, the mechanical part is the only part of the undercarriage. It is good to finish the whole with a solid black color, but here it is better to paint with multiple colors as much as possible. Except for the shock absorber that was masked earlier, apply silver, then mask and apply black. Silver is not applied to the entire part. Apply only the necessary parts. If you apply the whole, the coating will become thicker as much as you apply, and the details will be filled up by that amount. The appearance doesn’t change that much, but you shouldn’t have to apply it. In addition, applying extra means that extra paint is used. Actually, the amount of extra paint is insignificant, but if you waste it every time, the amount of dust will be accumulated, and you will soon waste a considerable amount. In any case, it seems that there is not much merit even if it is applied excessively, so only the necessary parts are applied. If you put the masking tape on top of the silver, you will lose some of the silver powder when you remove the tape. So apply a little more. Around the interior, there are some parts that should be painted in flat red. So paint them. The parts that can be glued first, such as the seat back parts, will be glued. Make sure that the adhesive does not come out. So I will paint Pure Red. Tamiya Lacquer’s Pure Red is glossy red, so I will apply a flat clear later to make it matt. If you apply Flat Red, you don’t need to do that. I didn’t have it at hand. There is no particular meaning just painting as a substitute. I paint directly from the top of the white plastic. The surfacer is not painted, so be careful when painting. Suddenly thick coating will increase the time to dry and give the surface a paint flow. When it flows, surface tension works. Places where the coating is thick or thin are formed. That causes uneven color. The thicker the film, the darker the color appears. Conversely, if the coating is thin, the color will appear light. These phenomena become more pronounced as the paint’s hiding power is weaker. The hiding power varies depending on the paint. In general, the color red is often weak in hiding power. Tamiya Lacquer’s Pure Red is the one with relatively strong hiding power. Still, some influence seems inevitable. Apply very thinly at the beginning. Apply as if you were going to dry the paint on the surface. Dilute the dilution rather than thickening it. This is also to increase the speed of drying on the surface and make it less likely to cause fluid flow. Paint the chassis. Some parts of the chassis should be painted in the same color as the body color. So I will paint white as the primer. The body will be finished in red. Even if you apply red directly on the gray surfacer on the chassis, it will not color well. However, after completion, it is not so visible. So you don’t need to paint thickly until it is completely white. After the painted white is dried for about 1 hour, apply red. The chassis is painted in red, semi-gloss black or titanium silver. Paint from red, which has the least hiding power. In addition, the area painted in red is the smallest of the chassis. It seems better to paint from red, considering the ease of masking. As the masking area increases, the amount of tape that is applied increases. It will also increase the time and effort. However, depending on the hiding power of the paint to be applied, the order is considered regardless of the area. This time there is no need to dare to paint from black or silver. File work on the body surface continues. The main body was completed, but the front and rear bumpers and trunk lids were not completed. There are subtle reliefs on the surface as well as the body. File carefully so as not to cut them off. Normally, in my procedure, the file starts with number 600 and the number 1000 smooths the surface. Since 600 seemed to cut too much undulations on the surface, depending on the location, there are places starting from 1000. No. 1000 will be as if you are just shaving the paint film. It is also true that there were places where I thought that was enough. As I mentioned last time, this work may not have been very necessary for this kit. This is because the surface is already smooth and it is difficult to file. The parts around the body are completely filed, so I assemble them. When bonding, pay close attention to prevent the adhesive from sticking out. The rear bumper has a structure in which the adhesive surface in the center does not come out to the front even if the adhesive comes off. Secure the adhesive strength firmly in this place. The adhesive surface near the fenders on both sides should be poured only a little. Apply adhesive to the glue margin in the center, and then bond the front bumper. The pouring adhesive will dry immediately even if you apply it. It will remain a little as you apply several times. In this state, fit the bumper together. A normal adhesive is bulky because the resin is mixed. It may protrude from the joint when combined. Dare pouring adhesive is used in this way. The adhesive is poured as far as possible from the joints on both sides. When pressing after pouring, do not apply too much force. For side intakes, there aren’t many good ways to keep the glue from sticking out. However, keep the amount of adhesive poured to a minimum. The accuracy of the parts is good and fits perfectly. It may not be necessary to bond so tightly. Again, do not apply too much force when pressing after pouring. For the rear trunk lid, like the front bumper, apply the adhesive to the glue margin and then match the parts. If the adhesive sticks out in these situations, recovery becomes very difficult. It’s not impossible to recover, but because the adhesive melts the parts, you’re actually making that part yourself. Therefore, it is important not to let the adhesive stick out. Thank you for watching. See you in next videos. This is Blue22, AO-san.

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. 作りたい~けどまだ発売されていないので、フィギュア作ってました(ガレキ)。確かにボディの接着は気をつかいますよね、後で研ぎ出ししているときに「ピキィッ!」と割れてとれたこともあるので(笑)エポキシ2液でウラから付けたり、うす~く伸ばしたエポパテでやはりウラからはっつけたりとかやってます(^0^;

  2. if I use a brush to paint it, can I apply Cement SP without removing the paint? because the paint brush is slightly thicker than the airbrush. thank you

  3. こうやって見てるとボディだけでもパーツ点数が多いですね。


  4. 製作お疲れ様です(笑)

  5. 昔(10年前)は車のプラモデルを中心に作ってたけどガンダムのプラモデル作るようになってから車のプラモデルに対して【エンジンも再現して欲しい】と思うようになりました、ガンダムのプラモデルはほとんど再現されてますもんね??


  6. Blue thank you again So much for taking the extra time to Provide the english Subtitles.your model build techniqe is amazingly Pecise as you are narrarating while bulding. Great work 22 San!

  7. 完璧な物を目指す。手を抜ける所は抜く。「青さんの場合、あまり有りませんが」短時間に、なるほど感が満載で勉強になります。英語でのご返信、これまた素敵です。

  8. I was thinking.. I'd better give a masking tape to both joints, rather than removing it using a hobby knife.. I'll try it

  9. サブタイトルで大いに役立つモデル作成で使用されるいくつかの英語の単語とフレーズであなたを支援することができます。
    Sabutaitoru de ōini yakudatsu moderu sakusei de shiyō sa reru ikutsu ka no eigo no tango to furēzu de anata o shien suru koto ga dekimasu. Deibupōtāyūchūbumoderā

  10. いつも素敵な動画配信ありがとうございます。

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