This CR250 Is Going To Rip!

This CR250 Is Going To Rip!

such a good feeling to be out in the
shop you guys know what I’m talking about it’s so relaxing out here yet
amps me up at the same time just feels like this is where I’m supposed to be so
anyways what we’re doing today is we’re gonna be working on the cr250 project
back here for you guys that haven’t seen that bike and for you guys that are new
the channel I know there’s a lot of people coming on board these days my
name is Cameron emo I work on motorcycles for a living
we’ve got AC or 250 project right here 125 back there a couple bikes back in
the corner the number one question I get from everyone what is the origin of your
last name so it’s pronounced Nemo uh it’s from Finland so my grandparents are
from Finland were born there came to the US and so that’s the story behind that
dang I realize that somebody’s it’s in my face kind of ugly should turn the
camera around alright the first batch of parts we’re gonna be installing is all
these goodies from poison so I hooked up with poison they sent over a bunch of
cool stuff for this build have you got ignition cover clutch cover reef cage
and an exhaust port or exhaust flange they call it so super excited to bolt
all this stuff up so let’s talk a little bit about what a reed cage or rad valve
as some call it actually does on a two-stroke so say it’s positioned like
this on the bike this is your engine side your carburetors over here
you have air and fuel traveling in and when they come into the crankcase or
come to the engine these little petals open right here they open up that flows
through into the crankcase and then when your engines on the downstroke meaning
that air & fuel mixture is traveling into the
combustion chamber these are closed off like they are now and so this piece
right here has a pretty big impact on the performance of your bike and so what
does this particular rad valve do well it’s designed to improve the flow and
velocity of that air & fuel mixture traveling into the engine and that
obviously increases the horsepower numbers and efficiency of the bike and
then these pedals are designed to last a lot longer
and obviously optimized for flow and when a two-stroke is operating at max
rpm these pedals are operating at hundreds of times per second so if you
have weak pedals like the stock ones most of the time are those are gonna
wear out pretty quick and you’re gonna lose horsepower numbers now I don’t mean
to turn this into like an advertisement for Voisin just simply explaining what
an aftermarket Reed cage or rad valve will do for your bike and the exhaust
flange this is optimized to improve the pulse energy the exhaust coming out the
engine which in turn is going to make your throttle response better as well as
bottom end power and for the ignition cover and clutch cover those are built
to be a little bit stronger than stock and I think they just look cool and of
course boys is sent over gaskets for everything so pretty much just bolt on
and go originally I was gonna use the stock Honda covers that I had Sarah
coated black compare these side-by-side I don’t know what do you guys like
better leave it down below in the comments section
enough blobbin let’s get to work I’m gonna pull off the stock Reed cage along
with stock exhaust flange here should be a pretty simple task then I’m gonna
compare them side-by-side to the boys and one so here’s the boys in red valve
alongside the stock one now I wish I knew more about how intake flow and
velocity works but just looking at these side-by-side you can see there is quite
a big difference here in design and it’s interesting how the stock valve has
eight petals they’re all individual and each port that the petal sits on is
individual as well and you can see these petals are pretty flimsy whereas the
poison has a stronger petals there’s only four ports and just one big petal
so quite a big difference in design take a look at all this light coming through
the stock petals that’s pretty crazy Wow let’s compare that to stick one more did
compare that to the Boysen kind of hard to tell because this is quite a bit
different design and those petals are transparent but I’m gonna guarantee you
there’s not as much air or light coming through these ones now for the exhaust
flange this one looks like it’s a little bit taller not by much what I noticed is
the inside bore is way smoother than a stock one this one has a nice smooth
finish on it stock one has that rough cast look to it you can see it’s got
that rough cast finish inside of there yeah that’s definitely gonna affect the
flow and the pulse pressure or the pulse charge in your exhaust all right I’m
gonna need to find some new bolts for this stuff I can’t believe I was gonna
use this nasty corroded Hardware kind of a hardware freak after doing all that
zinc plating so I’m going to be using this bolt kit and whatever I don’t find
in there I’ll use the Tusk kind of general bolt kit here so this is
more of a specific kit for a CR CRF and they’ve got a bunch of bike specific
hardware in here so this red valve just uses the stock
intake boot and like anything with a gasket surface you want to tighten in a
crisscross pattern just so that everything’s going together evenly yeah
it’s nice to get some fresh Hardware on there too looks a lot better now I just
got a pump my electron car back into the intake manifold and we will be set I can’t wait to pair that rad valve up
with electron carb it’s gonna be really cool to see how they’ve worked together
and once I get this thing up and going I’m gonna trade the boys in valve out
for the stock one and see the difference between the two alright let’s find out how good these
covers will look on the bike so since the clutch cable goes beneath the
ignition cover on this bike just feeds through this hole connects to the lifter
arm here I am gonna have to mount up my clutch cable got a mushroom Pro brand
one and it’s always a good idea to lube up beforehand even with a new cable now in order to get to the clutch cover
bolts this brake pedal is kind of in the way so what I’m gonna do here is push
this caliper in that should do and then I’ll be able to push down the brake
pedal all the way and I’m gonna jam something here to hold that brake pedal
down now you can see we have access to those clutch cover bolts all right let’s check out how this cover
will go on the bike should look pretty sweet honestly I think it’s easier just
to pull the brake pedal off it’s kind of a hassle getting this clutch cover on
the brake pedal right there all right there we go so what I’d like to do when you have a
cover that has a lot of mounting bolts is get all your bolts in place make sure
that gasket isn’t pinched anywhere and then tighten down all these bolts in a
crisscross pattern that just prevents anything from being warped or that
gasket getting destroyed and then as far as how tight they need to be these are
only six millimeter bolts so the torque spec is maybe only six or seven
foot-pounds I’m not gonna use a torque wrench for it just going to you could
say use the torque wrench of my arm basically going until I strip it and
then back it out half a turn no not really just that I don’t know you kind
of get a feel for it but I would say it takes about the same amount of force to
torque these as six foot-pounds as it takes to turn a doorknob so basically
I’m holding the bolt or holding the ratchet like I’m opening a door or a
handle so not much force at all and then you want to build that pressure back up
and your brakes just pump the pedal a few times and then you’re good to go
damn that looks fresh what do you guys think let me know down in the comments
section so I’ve got an extra Poisson exhaust flange here my buddy Geary who
watches a channel sent this over so big thanks to him but in comparing it
to the stock flange you can see it’s a little different shape this is the 2003
flange it’s got a round port to it and this is more square shaped so I did some
research and this is for a 2004 only and obviously I have a 2003 so this isn’t
gonna work on there so if any of you guys have a 2004 cr250 and you want a
boys an exhaust flange these things are super trick all cnc aluminum right down
in the comment section below cr250 and i’m gonna pick one whoops and
i’m gonna pick one of you guys and give you this exhaust Falange for free I’m
gonna take a little break from the 250 and work on the car it’s got to change
the oil and fix up a couple thing on it but I’d show you guys something pretty
cool here got this valve it’s got a little lever on it and you just push it
in twist it down or turn it down and that’s how you drain the oil
pretty slick setup have this thing on here for I don’t know probably a year
and a half and never had any issues with it even with like driving through snow
and having the snow pack up underneath the car so I’ll show you exactly how it
works just pushing this little lever and then bring it down and there we go I
think they call it a food modo valve and it sucks working underneath the car door
winner constantly being dripped on there’s like icicles under here and
everything looks like it’s all finished up draining just gonna go ahead close
this thing back up make sure it’s a locked in that little groove so yeah
those things are pretty slick gonna pop on a fresh filter and add some oil and
this engine bay is disgusting I mean kind of neglecting it so the next thing
I need to do is bolt on my mud flaps so I’ve been rallying a little bit too hard
and I ripped this mud flap off and then kind of bent the bracket on this one now the next thing I’m gonna do is clean
up this trunk so I picked this thing up on Craigslist looks like it’s been
sitting in the garage for a while and it’s got like this rough gritty finish
or texture on the paint so the reason I’m using a different trunk is because
I’ll be bolting up an STI wing to this trunk and I don’t want to drill into the
factory trunk so I’m gonna use the clay bar to clean up the paint on this one
you probably can’t see what I’m talking about with this texture on the paint but
just listen to it yeah it definitely sounds pretty rough actually feels like
500 or 600 grit sandpaper so hopefully that clay bar cleans all
that up check out how nasty that paint was this
clay bar was white when I started and now it’s got like this orange or brown
stuff all over it so there’s still like a yellow kind of brown haze on the paint
here so I don’t think the clay bar is gonna cut it I’m gonna have to switch to
a buffing wheel no I’m definitely no detailing expert
but after a quick buff this paint is buttery smooth got all of that texture
off of there just need to get my wing in and I can get it bolted up so I
definitely plan on doing more mods to this WRX so let me know down in the
comments section if that’s something you want to see on the channel hey guys
so it’s a few weeks later just finished up with my very last treatment and it
feels so good to be completely done with treatments and just move on with life
so I filmed a video from the hospital of my last treatment kind of took you guys
through the entire process and I put that up on the channel a couple weeks
ago so I would recommend you guys go check it out I think you would find it
pretty interesting so still working through a few health issues but I think
in about two to three weeks I’ll be you all good to go and I can just get back
to work full time so if that being said let’s get back to work on the 250 and
bolt the pipe up got the pipe all mounted up and man that
looks amazing on there the fit and finish on the pipe isn’t
quite up to par though you can see on this back mount it’s kind of crooked
here with the rubber damper so not quite perfect there just kind of nitpicking
this lower bracket you can see is not the greatest-looking
and also the rubber damper is a little bit cocked to the side on this one as
well up on the head portion the springs are pretty stretched out so these two
little tabs aren’t quite close enough to the engine once again not a huge issue
the pipe mounted up it’s on there looks amazing as far as performance goes this
pipe is supposed to increase the bottom end performance so of course once we get
the bike up and going we will delve into that and see how that works
oh and one more issue here you can see the Kickstarter hits the pipe I might be
able to fix this by moving the Kickstarter up a little bit on the
splines I’m gonna give that a shot and see if it fixes it but the pipe is
pretty close to the Kickstarter there so for you guys that haven’t seen this pipe
on the channel yet it is called a DPR cone pipe so it’s all hand-built from
individual sections of pipe here you can see all those individual welds really
cool looking there’s only a few companies out there that still make this
kind of pipe for the cr250 there’s DPR which is this one
skel vini and there may be a few others but it was kind of a debate between the
DPR and the scaloppini if I don’t like this one I might just go ahead and buy
the scaloppini and see how how that one is but for now we’re gonna rock it with
this pipe so unfortunately I wasn’t able to fix this Kickstarter issue moving the
Kickstarter up one position puts the armor right in the way of the
frame alright so up one spot and you can see it’s on the frame now so obviously
that’s not gonna work so I’m really not sure what I’m gonna do about this I just
have to run it with the with a Kickstarter hitting a pipe like that not
too happy with the fit and finish of this pipe honestly not to bash on this
pipe too much but actually how to clean up the header portion of the pipe with a
dremel to get it to fit on to the flange here so kind of disappointing as well
the next batch of parts will be installing are the radiators and red
radiator hoses these are Mishimoto brand excited to try
those out the pretty good quality and for radiators these are just a set of
nice stock ones gonna check out these hoses real quick doesn’t seem like
they’re super stiff like the Chinese ones you get and from the looks of it
they are multi-layered so that’s a good sign shouldn’t have any
issues with these ones I figured I should probably bust out some fresh
hardware and check out these bolts aluminum drilled washers should look
pretty cool on there check this out it’s gonna look sweet oh
yeah time to figure out how these are
radiator hoses mounted it up so let’s start with the two that connected
radiators to each other these ones right here so this one goes on the bottom here
so we might have to loosen up the radiator just get that one in and then
this one goes up top so connects to that fitting there goes across the frame and
over to that fitting and I don’t think I have clamps for this one so I’m gonna
have to order some of those up so this one is pretty straightforward
I’m just gonna run it through a little gap and then on this side through that
gap as well and now for this hoes I’m gonna loosen
up this side radiator pull it out a little bit that way I can get this hose
in between the two of them got my clamps on here hopefully this hose just slips
right on to the radiator fitting there we go I’m just gonna bring the radiator
back over actually now that I think of it it’s gonna be easier to have this
radiator loosened up to get the bottom hose on so I’m gonna pop that one on
real quick yeah it’s this hose right here that goes between the right
radiator and the water pump so that fitting right there connects to the
bottom of the right radiator and I got a little ahead of myself here got the pipe
on it would have been a lot easier to get this hose on without that pipe in
the way but whatever we’ll still get it I’m just gonna feed this hose down
behind the pipe and on to the water pump and when you’re putting the hose clamp
on you want to make sure it’s in the correct orientation on some of these
hoses if you put the hose clamp say that way it may be hard to get to the head
and tighten it down so for this hose I am going to put the clamp on this way
that way I can get to the head of the clamp here so I’m gonna try to get the bottom hose
on first and just push that hose right up on to the fitting there we go and now
for the connecting hose so this connecting hose is being a little bit of
a nuisance so I’m gonna spray some silicone spray on it I’m using a Maxima
SC one just gonna hit it with a blast of this stuff and it should slip right on
and the nice thing about silicone spray is it’ll help get the hose on but it’s
gonna dry up and it won’t leave the hose like slippery so that way you don’t have
to worry about it falling off later see how easy that slip down yeah that’s
silicone spray is money now we’ve got three hoses and T these are what connect
two radiators to the cylinder head and they can get kind of confusing so what I
like to do is use a microfiber just pictures on Google to figure out exactly
how these go so I’m over here at Rocky Mountain and they provide oh yeah
microfiche is basically a Parts I grand that show how everything is oriented so
with the radiator set up we have a hose coming off the right radiator one off
the left and then one from the head and they all meet at that T so in looking at
that we can kind of have an idea how those hoses go another thing I’ll do is
jump over to Google I just searched 2003 cr250 engine and I’ll get these pictures
that show up and kind of show how the Arabia routing is kind of get an idea
how that goes so definitely a huge resource all right here’s the hose that
goes from the left radiator over to the T just fits in here like this and up to
the fitting and we’ve got the hose that goes from the right radiator just fits
up here onto that fitting and down to near where the other host
came out and that’s where the tea’s gonna connect now the hose that connects
to the cylinder head so there is a shorter side and a longer side you want
the shorter side facing the head and that’s gonna go right on to that one man
that’s gonna go great with that red Fathead cylinder head looks pretty sweet
and now for this little plastic t section so that is gonna go to the left
Raider to the right one and then to the head and make sure you have all the
clamps loose when you’re putting this T on because you might have to shift
things around to get everything to line up we’re only gonna tighten these up snug
you don’t want to go too tight and crush that hose and by snug I just mean about
to stay in the amount of pressure as like turning a doorknob like I explained
earlier so not really a ton of torque on these clamps I’ve got all these hoses
tightened up now and time to pop on the overflow hose don’t mind that nasty
radiator cap I’m gonna replace that one now I’m gonna route it down through here
and in between the outlets on the bottom of the radiator here just gonna keep it
away try to keep it away from the cylinder and the exhaust that way it
doesn’t melt on there and I’m gonna go down by the motor mount just kind of
tuck it right down here with the frame and I’m just gonna zip tie it to the
frame to hold it into position and then up here at the fitting that’s a pretty
loose fit so I’m gonna throw a clamp on that one as well all right I’ve got the
radiators and radiator hoses all finished up and the last thing we’ll be
installing today is one of my favorites it is a works connection clutch lever
and perch these things are super nice to have makes the clutch lever pull that
much easier and it’s really important to have that on a two-stroke so let’s get
to installing this so I’m going to put this lever together
on the bench and then I can slide it onto the handlebars alright so I’m gonna pop the lever into
the perch but let me show you something with this lever so here in the pivot of
the lever it’s got three separate bearings you can see down inside there
and that is what makes the clutch pull so dang smooth these things are
definitely a lifesaver on any bike especially a two-stroke and as you would
expect any spot that pivots or moos needs to be greased up in order for it
to work at its finest and also inside the perch and then I could slide the two
together also gonna put a little dab on the pivot bolt as well and this would be
a little bit tricky since the tolerances are so tight on these levers trying to
get this pivot bolt started inside the lever it’s like we got it going yeah you
can definitely say I’m a man that likes his lube everything I put together has
to have grease or some sort of lubricant in it that’s for sure
and it’s especially important on a clutch lever definitely got to have
things greased up just gonna snuggle up not too tight man that’s about as smooth
as it gets just got to put together this cable adjuster now and once again this
is gonna need a little bit of grease here on the knob that’s gonna slide in
just like that and this is gonna pop on to the perch and with that grease is
super smooth time to slap this whole setup on the bike and hook it up to the
cable it’s gonna slide this puppy right onto the handlebars here get it
tightened down this boot right here is gonna go over
the end of the cable sometimes it’s a little tricky to get on there you might
have to squirt a little bit of Lube on it to fit it over there we go
slipped right on I’m gonna turn this adjuster all the way in I’m gonna line
up the gaps and the cable fits on to the bottom of the lever here there’s a
little groove slide that through and into the adjuster we’ve got quite a bit
of free play there so it looks like we’re gonna have to do some adjustment
on this cable right over here just gonna turn these threads out on the table and
that will lengthen the cable housing and in turn will have less free play or kind
of slop here on the lever so what I’m gonna try to do is adjust most of it
right here with this adjuster and then come back over here and do the fine
adjustments at the lever so to explain a little bit more what this cable adjuster
does on the lever is when you’re out riding and you notice your clutch start
to fade a little bit when you go over a jump or you have like a split second to
make an adjustment you just roll this thing forward like that obviously it’s
not gonna catch on your blood like that and that will reduce the amount of free
play here in the cable and give you your clutch peel back so I’m gonna set the
cable right there and then I’m gonna make the fine adjustments you’re at the
lever hopefully I don’t have to go too far out with this cable adjuster now as
far as clutch cable slack you want about the width of a quarter here between the
perch and the lever so pull slightly on the cable and then pull the lever and
cable apart from each other and you’ll be able to see the amount of slack there
or the amount of gap here so that should be like I said about the width of a
quarter or three to four millimeters that’s the general rule of thumb you can
go looser than that if you prefer you’re right here we have about a
but you definitely don’t want to go any tighter than about two millimeters there
or else you’ll risk frying your clutch so right there you can see there’s very
little movement there and that’s gonna burn up the clutch pretty quickly so
with a cable all hooked up and adjusted I noticed the clutch lever pole was
really stiff and it’s usually not characteristic of a works connection
lever so I figured something was up it should be as light as this pole here in
the 125 I have the same lever just one finger is all it should take so I
started diagnosing what was going on here so the first thing I did was adjust
the cable all the way back in give us a bunch of slack and then come down to the
engine here pull the cable off of there that way it’s not engaging with a clutch
actually and now I can test the see if it’s in a cable routing or something in
the lever or the cable itself so I’m using the lever up top here and you can
see at the bottom it’s moving and it’s just buttery smooth no issues whatsoever
so that eliminates any problems with the cable routing or issues with the lever
so I’m going to move on to the actual clutch over here and so I pulled all the
springs off this could be a clutch spring issue or possibly something to do
with the push rod going through so how I’m going to test that is by holding
this clutch pressure plate pulling in the lever and seeing how the clutch
lever feel is it’s super smooth then that means everything is good to go all
the way up from the lever through the cable to the lifter armor on the other
side and then through the push rod to this side that means all of that is good
and it’s an issue with the clutch springs so let’s go ahead and test that
so I’m gonna hold the pressure plate with one hand and pull in the lever with
the other yeah that is super smooth as well so that means everything
is good to go and I’m gonna move on to swapping out the clip Springs with the
stock ones okay so I put in the stock clutch Springs so let’s go up to the
lever and see how this feels ooh not good that’s a two finger one
finger ain’t gonna do it yeah that’s still no better at all so hmm you know
I’m kind of thinking is I don’t have any gear oil in there and so obviously
nothing’s lubed up and that could possibly be the issue so I think I’m
gonna stop right here wait till I get gear oil in there and actually run the
bike and see if that improves the clutch pull at all
that’s gotta be the issue because I diagnose everything else check through
everything else and everything seems fine as soon as I put pressure on that
pressure plate it wants to get really stiff so I’ll update you guys once I get
oil in there and we’ll see if that fixes the issue
I’ve got everything with the clutch button back up and one thing I thought
it would show you with this perch that I find pretty cool and something I use
quite a bit all night 125 is the lever reach adjustment it’s a little screw
down here the allen head and so adjusting that screw changes the
distance from the bars to the lever so you can really fine-tune it for how big
your hands are or just general preference so definitely a really cool
feature to have all right that is gonna wrap up the video so this time around we
got quite a bit down the bike really stoked at how it’s coming out some
things didn’t really go quite to plan but that’s just how it goes sometimes at
least we’re making progress just want to say thank you for watching the video and
for those of you that stuck behind me the last eight months while I was going
through my little journey with cancer gotta say a big shout out and thank you
to you as well means the world that have all your support so from here on out
look for videos on a lot more consistent basis hopefully two or three a week and
spring is right around corners well so hope to be doing some
writing too so if you enjoy the video make sure you share it with your buddies
and that’s really all I ask of you oh and one more thing I will be at
Seattle Supercross this upcoming weekend March 23rd so keep an eye out if you see
me out there come say what’s up I would love to chat
with some of you guys until next time keep it Prime

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. You need to keep the original covers, the factory ones are nice but a lot of people have them, your ones are 1 of a kind and make it more clean!! Keep up the work man

  2. Concerning torque…..just tighten until the bolt spins freely! Ha! Did that when I was young…..drove my poor Dad bananas. Say, what brand of cable oiler are you using? I've never found one that I like…..thanks ahead of time. I have been waiting for you to get back on the youtube and praying for your recovery. I'm looking at a couple of serious operations myself… old guys wear out a lot…… Keep the Faith, Tom

  3. Definitely the Boysen stuff…'ve got it…..looks good….why not use it? Plus it is SURE to make the bike 5 mph faster!!!

  4. After many years of porting cylinders and heads on street engines……the shape is far more important that the port being smooth. In fact, smooth intake ports/manifolds encourage fuel to come out of the air flow and "puddle"….better to leave the intake rough but shaped right. Exhausts are nice to make right shape and smooth the walls so the carbon does not stick to the port.

  5. hey, guys, I got a problem on my cr 125 from 1999.
    the shock barely springs in and does not spring back out completely. I have already turned pressure and rebound on soft. I don't know what to do 🙁

  6. Hey man I have a 08 Crf250r the bike is hard to start if I stall it or when it’s hot.. can you please advice me on what could be the problem. It starts perfect when cold but when it’s hot It just won’t start and it’s not over heating..

  7. The fact that you just kicked cancers ass and is still continuing this passion like nothing ever happened inspires me. Keep up the Awesome work!

  8. The Scalvini will fit about the same. Those hand crafted REAL cone pipes typically are less perfect fitting due to the increased amounts in welds then warps the steel just a bit with every weld. Generally you have to use a rubber mallet to tap the thing into submission. through trial and error you can get it too fit perfect. But the spring taps problem is obviously, what it is, unless you grind and re weld.

  9. Làm cái xe háo hức vkl
    Quay mấy cái clip gần năm trời vẫn chưa nghe thấy tiếng máy nổ
    Dkm mày tây ba lô

  10. Hi, i am from South Africa, just got my first 2 wheel off road, KTM 450 EXC-R, need a bottom end rebuild kit, where can i get online at good prices? parts here are crazy expensive.

  11. 1:00 your last name is niemelä not niemela and its not pronounced like that… 😀 i know this because im finnish. its prounced kind of like its written…

  12. Jeeess…. These videos just want me to strip My bike and rebuild it 😂 i got a cr250 2004 tho.
    Keep up the work 💪💪

  13. I love those drilled washer's on the radiator those of the coolest looking washer's that exist lol. That's some nice fit and finish on those. I'd be pist off about that Kicker hitting the pipe. That thing's gonna rattle constantly I actually would send that pipe back.

  14. Ur highly intelligent and very very very smart with putting your minds towards bikes love the content and how your process goes on your bike builds keep it up legend 👌🏼

  15. Can’t find the exhaust flange anywhere for my bike if you have suggestions let me know have a 2002 kx125

  16. If you want a truly easy oil change. Get an pneumatic fluid extractor. I went with an compressor powered one. Remove dip, stick in tube, turn on, by the time you have the filter off the oil is drained. Put on new filter and fill her up.

    Cool valve though

  17. that lower spring on the exhaust is going to wear into your pipe from vibration you should try to have a tab welded closer to the flange so it doesn't rub on the pipe.

  18. OH shoot it's a no brainer …. Factory racing look way better. Leave the reed valve in and call it done.

  19. dude youre a pimp!!! I used to ride when I was younger but watching your videos makes me want to get back to my roots! I watch em over and over. Ive learned so much by you buddy!! Thanks man youre in our prayers my friend!!!

  20. I use crimp ring which give a nice clean finish and are stronger then c series hose clamp. I keep the c series hose clamp only in strategical placement to ease disassemble.

  21. You will find that two ball bearing balls. One each at one end of the rod near the last lever push ball socket for the rod to work best the second one is then placed at the other end of the clutch push rod and the pressure plate ball socket this will then take up the long adjustment on the cable at the handle-bar these will have a diameter of 3/16 inch or 5 mm. And while we are here you will need to add spacers to those exhaust mounts which will set the chambers inward at the rear a slightly to the rear here to making the exhaust expansion chambers ride away from kick starter lever and more centered of the frame these spacers should be about 13 mm thick each.

  22. The spacers are to help cool down the heat at those points. So the best ones to use are deeper cut than a spool of thread bobbins more surfaces to get rid of the heat of that exhaust pipe.

  23. я знаю что ты меня не поймешь! Но твои видосы мне очень помогли!Спасибо огромное!!!

  24. hello I want to make a humble opinion, it seems to me that the escape is not the one indicated, one because it is quite unadulterated in welding and seems not to be well oriented, for what is a motorcycle that is being done to the smallest detail, for me not It looks like I'm going to give up that escape, I'd rather look for another better-made escape, since now greetings from Argentina.

  25. Glad you beat cancer. I pray it'll never return. And thanks for this tutorial. I look forward to upgrading my 2 stroke.

  26. Much respect for what you've been through and managed to still put out some of the best rebuild videos on the web. I tip my hat to you sir 🎩👍

    Smooth isn't always better for air flow. Look at a golf ball.

    Tony The Tiger Channel!!!!


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