Tips For Buying A Used Or Second-hand Road Bike

Tips For Buying A Used Or Second-hand Road Bike

– If you’re buying a bike, then buying used is a
great way to save money and make your budget go further. So in this video, we’re
going to give you a guide as to what to look for
so that you can avoid getting a clunker and make
sure you get a good deal. And if you’ve got any friends, who are just getting into cycling and looking to buy a bike, then consider sharing this video with them as hopefully the information
in it will be really useful. The first thing to do is to summon your inner Sherlock Holmes
and approach buying a bike like a detective looking for clues. Ask questions, ask why the
current owner is selling it, are they a cyclist? Ask them about where they rode the bike, this could be really useful
for building some rapport with the seller too. If it’s apparent that they
aren’t a keen cyclist, but they are selling
an expensive road bike, then this should raise further questions. Remember though, if a deal
appears to be too good to be true, it probably is. (notification tone dings) Wow! You’re never going to believe this, turns out that I’ve inherited a brand new Pinarello Dogma
F12 from a Nigerian prince! We would strongly advice that
you don’t ever buy a bike without seeing it first in person. You can drop on to a good deal though, sometimes, people buy a
bike with the intention of getting into cycling and
for whatever reason they don’t. Consequently, the bike
hasn’t been ridden much and they eventually decide to sell it. Now a good way to spot
this, is with the brakes. If there isn’t much wear
on the pads or the rims and there isn’t much
dirt inside the recesses and nooks and cranny’s on the caliper, then it probably hasn’t been used much. And another good tell, is the bar tape. If it’s pristine and original, then again, the bike probably hasn’t seen much action. At this point, I’m going
to say that in this video, we’re not going to tell
you how to determine the right frame size you need, as it would make this
particular video too long. But fear not, we do have
a video advising you how to do that, which we’ll
link at the end of this one. It’s a good idea to adjust the seatpost to get it so that it’s your size, but this also allows you to sneakily check a few other things as well. So, something that’s more
of a problem on alloy bikes, is that seatposts can get stuck. Now, you’ll find out if it’s
stuck if you can’t adjust it, they can be un-stuck but sometimes this can be a bit of a pain. And on carbon bikes, it’s worth knowing that
it’s a stress area, so if the seat post clamp
bolt is over tightened, it can cause fractures and
cracks in the seatpost, so by adjusting it and taking it out you’ll be able to see if it’s okay. Do your homework, check
what you’re getting and try and find out what the
original spec of the bike was. With bikes made in the last five years this is relatively easy
to do using the internet. This isn’t essential but
it can tell you a lot about the life of the bike, if you engage Sherlock Holmes mode. It will also help you establish
what the bike is worth, such as, if parts have been upgraded. For example, if it still
has the original tires and is a couple of years old, it probably hasn’t been
ridden much at all. Tires are the most common
thing that get changed and bikes often come with budget tires. If the bike has a different fork to the one that it originally came with, then this might be
because the original one was totaled in a crash, kind
of a potential red flag. So, it’s a bit like mis-matched
body panels on a car, something to be aware of. However, if the bike has
different wheels and a saddle, these are the most common
parts to upgrade on a bike and consequently, they can
be better than the ones that’s the bike originally came with. The first thing is cable rub marks, these are cosmetic damage to the frame but they give an idea as to how much the bike has been ridden. And also, careful owners
will tend to put pads and protective spots on the frame to stop this kind of damage happening, so it gives you an idea
about the bikes history. With regards to the cables themselves, the general rule of thumb, it’s typical that cyclists
with regular riding, will change them every couple of years. So it’s worth asking the seller when the cables were
last changed or replaced, so that you have an idea of when you might need to do it in the future. As you brake, you wear away the brake pads and also the brake rim on the wheel. Now, they generally last for ages and they’ll last even longer
if you regularly clean them, but they do wear out over time. And what you don’t want is a concave rim, now this is where the
metal on the wheel rim, or the material has worm away sufficiently that it’s now become concave. You can tell by looking at it and also by feeling it with your finger. If they are concave factor this in, because it means that
you probably need to buy a new set of wheels, so
that’ll incur you a cost. The same applies for disc brakes too, but the difference here is that it’s just the disc brake rota that wears and then potentially needs
replacing if it’s worn out, which is much cheaper
than having to replace an entire wheel. You should also look at the tires, obviously some wear is expected but look to see if the
tread is completely worn out and look for big cuts and
holes in the tire as well, as this will mean that they
probably need replacing. And I’d use this to renegotiate some money off the list price of the bike. Same applies for the bar tape as well, if it’s worn out and
dirty, use it as a tool to try and negotiate some money off. Now, next up, we’re going
to look at the drive train. The drive train refers to the chain rings, the chain and the cassette on the bike. Now these components wear out over time and you can expect to
periodically replace them. A good way to check the
chain, see if it’s okay, is using a simple chain checker tool. You can pick these up in bike shops for a couple of quid and
they’re a worthwhile investment. The chain checker tells you if
the chain has been stretched, and it’s really easy to use, you just slot it in and
it tells you, like that. Opie’s chain, is okay. Now, if the drive train is worn out, then you make get some skipping
and jumping of the chain on the cassette, and
this is usually apparent when you’re putting out
quite a lot of torque. So for example, if you’re
cycling out of the saddle. It’s not the end of the
world though, as I say, these parts can be replaced, it’s just something to factor
in to the overall cost. And another sign that indicates
wear on the drive train is jagged or un-even teeth,
that have been ground down on the cassette or the chain rings. Another area you should look
at is the bottom bracket area here where the crank
arms are in the frame. This is particularity
important on carbon fiber bikes and you should be looking for
any cracks or signs of damage. Don’t be afraid to lift up
the bike and look underneath. Also, check the drive-side chain stay, often there’s only cosmetic damage here but it’s worth having a look at. If the chain falls off or gets dropped, it can chip the frame
here and also the chain can sometimes slap against this chain stay when you’re going over rough ground. And again, this can cause chips
and scratches to the frame, it’s usually only cosmetic
but worth having a look at and also, just check that the frames not been completely destroyed. The next thing we’re going
to look at is the bearings, to see if there’s any play in them. If there is play in the bearings, then it means that they
usually need replacing. First, the headset bearing, so the way that you test this
is you put the front brake on, stand over the bike like I’m doing now and rock it forwards and backwards. Now if there’s play, you’ll feel it moving against the steerer tube,
against the frame here and you can usually see it. Fortunately, there’s no play in this one. To see if there’s any play in
the bottom bracket bearing, the axle of the bike, then
put your hand on the crank arm and try and move it in this direction. And if there’s play, you’ll feel it, fortunately again, no play in this one. And lastly, look to see if there’s play in the wheel bearings, the way to do this is to
grab hold of the wheel, both the front and the back one and just try and pull
it from side to side. And if there’s loads of lateral movement, if the wheel moves like this loads then there’s play in the bearing that might need to be addressed. Now if you just quickly engage, Sherlock Holmes mode, and if you consider someone
who’s been riding around on a bike, despite the fact that there’s play in the bearings then they probably haven’t
taken very good care of it and they probably don’t
know what they’re doing. Elementary. You should always check
if the wheels are true and by true, we mean straight. Now if the bike has been crashed, or has plowed into a large pothole, it can cause the wheels to become wonky and you can check this by
simply spinning the wheel and watching how the brake track moves relative to the brake pad. And you look down the
length of it like that, now this wheel’s nicely true, but if it’s not, it’s really easy to tell, you’ll see the wonky-ness in the wheel as it moves like that. If the wheel is slightly out of true, it’s not the end of the world, it’s something that can easily be fixed in your local bike shop for around £10, or whatever your local currency is. Although, it is something
that you should factor in to the list price, the bike and use as a negotiating tool. The same applies for disc breaks, when you spin the wheel, the disc rota shouldn’t
rub against the caliper and if it does it can
suggest that the disc is actually slightly bent and wonky. Again, this is something that can be fixed for not too much money, but factor it in. If the disc is slightly warped, then you’ll be hear it
going (makes ticking noises) every time it tracks past the pad. How can you tell if a bike’s been crashed? Well I’m going to tell you
about the signs of crash damage. Now it might be obvious
if a bike’s been crashed if it’s in a million pieces, but I’m talking about
the more subtle things. So firstly, the rear mech,
this is a classic right, if you’ve got a big scrape
on the rear mech here, well it’s a good sign of a crash. Now, bikes are a bit like buttered toast, they tend to land
business side down, weird! But keep an eye out for that, another one is on the saddle, on the edge of the saddle
here if there’s a scuff then that can also be a good sign that the bikes come down. And also, on the shifters
here and the bar tape, if the bar tape is ripped on the edge and there’s scratches on the shifter, that suggests the bike has had an impact. Scuffs of the shifters,
saddle and even the rear mech are usually just cosmetic though so, if you filter through the gears and there’s no skipping or jumping and it’s all working correctly then it’s probably nothing to worry about apart from the fact it’s
a little bit unsightly. Other things to be more concerned about are to do with the frame. So a classic thing is a top tube strike, now this is caused, when you crash, that the handle bars swing round quickly and strike the top tube, like that. Now, what you can do is
actually turn the bars so that they touch the top tube and then look at that
particular point on the top tube and see if there’s any damage there, if there is, it could be
something to be worried about. Another thing, and this is more common on alloy or steel frames, is if the frame has actually
been warped or bent. Grab a tape measure, or if you don’t have a tape
measure you can use some string and what you want to do is measure from the rear drop out here, to the top tube on the same
place on each side of the bike. The two distances should be the same, if they’re not, it can
suggest that the frame is warped or twisted. And if it is, it’s best just to walk away. Try and take the bike
out for a quick ride, just down the road should be sufficient. Get out the saddle and
stamp on the peddles, listen for sounds of creaking, particularly in the bottom bracket. It may mean that the bottom
bracket bearings need replacing, also check the brakes work, they should feel positive and
be able to lock the wheels. Also, siphon through the gears and check that you can
get into each sprocket and there is no clicking or skipping. Overall, if a deal seems
too good to be true, it probably is. And if a bike has loads of issues, then it may be more
trouble than it’s worth. The used bike market is
buoyant, it’s a buyers market and there are loads of great
deals to be found out there. So don’t ever be afraid to be like Craig David.. And walk away. However, in my experience
of buying used bikes, if a bike does have a few niggles such as some of the things
we’ve talked about in the video, these can be great ammunition for negotiating the price down. So, get haggling. Right, I hope you’ve found this video useful and informative. And please share it with your friends, especially if they’re
looking to buy a bike and don’t have much experience. I’m sure they’ll find it useful. And, if you’d like to watch more videos, well you can click down here
and also subscribe to GCN, it’s free! Now, good luck in your search, there’s loads of great deals out there, all the best finding a new bike, I’m going to go now, bye!

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Four critical areas I always look at for "real" condition usage that the owner cannot hide:
    1-The previous owner's weight. It's not offensive, it's just science…the bike ridden by a 145lbs person is going to see less stress than the guy who weighs 225lbs.
    2-The STI levers. If the bike has been crashed, you'll see cosmetic signs on the blades. If the bike was neglected and laid onto concrete or against a wall, you'll see cosmetic damage. More advanced technique: Shifters also get sloppy over time and with use, so feeling how they shift and feel in your hands in reference to a new pair can be useful; specifically the brake lever bushing.
    3-Chainrings. They're expensive, so people won't bother replacing chainrings like they will a cassette or chain, and the chainrings will provide more realistic insight at drivetrain wear. Chainrings with minimal wear either say the bike hasn't been ridden much, or the owner has spent the money to take care of the bike properly. People often overlook jockey wheels too.
    4-Braking surface of the rims. People can put new pads on, true wheels, clean them, but they cannot add new material back to the braking surface. Understanding how crisp the machining is on a new aluminum rim or abrasive the surface is on new carbon rims can help beyond any wear indicators that may be there.

    Things I don't pay much attention to:
    1-Bartape…a brand new bike with less than 500 miles can still have filthy tape if the owner always has greasey and dirty hands.
    2-Same as the first…cheap tires can wear with less than 1,500 miles, especially heavier riders. If you know they're OEM, then it's likely they were never replaced. It's also impossible to know if the owner didn't ride a second wheelset instead and kept the original set pristine.
    3-Seat; unless you know for certain the saddle is OEM to the bike, people swap seats all the time, so it's impossible to reference it to the life of the bike (good or bad).

  2. My first carbon race bike was a shop demo bike I bought from my mates bike shop. My commuter bike I bought sight unseen via Facebook and It was one of those bike bought with good intention but never ridden it was a bargain for $100

  3. I got a specialized allez for free just needs a rear wheel,tube,tire,cassette,chain, cables, left shift/brake lever,bar tape and derailuer hanger.


    Leaving this out here.

  5. That Nigerian prince died? I just gave him some cash.

    Amazing video. Very comprehensive.

    Kudos Ollie and team.

  6. The fork that is different can because of a recall, my road bike has a recalled fork on it and never have gotten it changed

  7. The benefits of disc brakes regarding replacing worn out braking surfaces (buying an entire new wheel vs a rotor) never occurred to me.
    And … what do you want for that Orbea?

  8. Honestly I don’t really buy used and if I do I know what to look for but I just love watching these videos 😂😂

  9. Now to balance things out how's about a video on how to get the most cash for a second hand bike? Bet you guys could do a great comedy vid along these lines.

  10. Great video. I do wish you'd mentioned that when buying second hand carbon bikes it's essential to get them ultrasound scanned for defects, because visual inspection alone cannot determine things like internal delamination that would result in catastrophic failure and potentially serious injury. The Luesher channel on YouTube is a great source of information on this.

  11. Some great handy tips. I buy most things second hand which can be a risk online but can get you a very tidy machine at a fraction of the price new.
    Re. Checking the frames true, a piece of string from the rear dropout, around the headtube to the other rear dropout then measure from the string to the seat tube either side. That's how I was taught and is probably easier to get an accurate measurement.
    Also worth checking the head tube and seat tube are in line but that's probably more of a steel frame thing.

  12. I go with a 10% idea – if the item is £1000, then 10% of that ie 100, is the amount of time minuium to look at it –

  13. Well, this happens quite often, middle-aged man with alot of money to spare wants to get in shape, so he buys a good bike because everybody else at the office got it. He tries it for a few Miles, feels it's not for him and sells the bike 75% off because he doesn't want to be reminded of the humiliation.

  14. Put the front brake on? As he reaches for the rear brake? are these reversed in the UK?

  15. Y’all let Katherine out of her cage! Y’all need a lady, and she rocks it in front of the camera… easy move.

  16. Like the way Ollie tested the bearings on those Zipp wheels, I had a brand new set of 404 Firecrests with 'play' and was told that it's engineered play… Hmmmm???

  17. Build your own. You can go a lot higher on the spec for less money.
    If you box clever, buy mostly second hand parts. I buy cables/tape and some fixings new. Obviously everyone has a preference on seats. Even a second hand Wheelset is worth it, as long as they are true. Just strip and replace bearings. You'll have a personalised bike with all the bits you like.

  18. be realistic and If possible haggle before you go waist yours and the sellers time, I gave up selling locally because once you factor in the waisted time from lookers, dreamers, and low balling hagglers its better to dump it on ebay and pay the crazy fees.

  19. Great video, first Q I'd ask is has the bike been raced, and then for how long. Wouldn't fancy buying a carbon bike especially that's seen a lot of race action as the stress effect would have been huge.

  20. just a couple more tips:
    1- go during the day when there's daylight to see bike/frame better (it's tempting to go in the dark evenings especially during winter months)
    2- take a pair of rubber gloves so you're not afraid/disgusted to touch any dirty parts of the bike
    3- try to take a friend with you (especially if they're bike-savvy). It's much easier to spot things with an extra pair of eyes… also easier to ask "silly" and "obvious" questions you may otherwise shy away from

  21. Thanks for the vid just in time. Tomorrow I maybe collect an older Trek roadie with Ultegra set for 400 bucks … I'll keep in mind the tips 🙂

  22. my first bike was $50 used japanese bike now i have a fiido d1 electric bike for $500 i used the japanese bike for 2 years lol

  23. i replaced the wheel rim and hub bearings so to recycle the hub,. axle,. leaver,. and spokes. its an rewarding job that if you photo the spokes patten… gave me the confidence to build my own hard tail e bike.. still in pro'

  24. I keep saying you should do a video on the the performance and value difference of buying a top-end bike that's a few years old vs. a brand new one of the same money; i.e. are you better off getting a brand new Canyon CF SL with brand new Ultegra, for example, than a 3 year old SLX with 3 year old Dura Ace? I've bought all my bikes second-hand from a specialist dealer, the last was daylight robbery at £2,300, and I'm convinced it's a way better deal than a brand new bike of any brand for the same money.

  25. Buying second hand bikes is easy, the amount of people who buy them and don't use them I bought one a few days ago the guy went on it once! One time! Saved £400 off new price and it was absolutely brand new

  26. Wan't it Simon Gerrans Vuelta bike, when he was with Orica, that had been stolen that was found for sale for 200€ in a shop in Andalucia?

  27. A lot of used bikes are stolen bikes. In the video they kind of mentioned this when they said that if a deal is to good to be true it probably is. I think that buying a stolen bike is a bigger problem than they mentioned in this video. I suggest that when buying a used bike you look at the serial number on the bike and check with the police to see if the bike is stolen. You might not even need to check with the police, because if you tell the seller that you want to check the serial number to make sure the bike is not stolen, the seller might get really nervous or not want you to check the serial number if the bike is stolen.

  28. Check online that you can still buy a mech hanger if the seller doesn't have a spare. If that goes on a pothole, your bike will be out of action till you can source one. For an older or discontinued bike, It may have to come from overseas and take weeks. My latest bike was second hand and was a real bargain, but it came with a broken cable guide under the BB. Its just the $3 blue plastic Shimano one.After about 2000km of riding with poor front shifting and lots of time wasted on front mech adjustments, I finally noticed what the problem was. The cable was sliding around all over the BB. I'd even put the bike in a pro shop and he hadn't noticed. I still recommend buying second hand, but be aware that unforeseen niggles can happen. Ultimately doing is how you learn to fix a bike.

  29. It is all crazy good, all the deals on new and used bikes and frames and components–it is truly a buyer's market, as you said, Ollie. And my two most recent bike purchases were used at a local bike shop, and that works for me and the shop–I get good deals and the shop gets my business as I wear out chains and components through commuting. And I do some of my own work and upkeep, but I like just taking it in and having it worked on by a pro.

  30. My first road bike was a 6 year old Bianchi with a mix of Campa group set from an enthusiast. If it breaks horribly within the next 6 years it's more probably my fault rather than the seller 😅

  31. I'm on my third bike and built it up piece by piece. First bike was a low end aluminum Trek. Second bike was a used car carbon Fuji from a friend that realized it wasn't for him. This time I knew what I wanted. A lot of completes had components that I knew I'd replace or have issues with anyway.

    Low balled a guy on Ebay for a supersix evo high mod frameset for just over a grand and the rest was history. I was recovering from knee surgery so I had time to wait for deals to pop up. All said and done I maybe paid a few hundred over the complete I was looking at. Only thing I had to change after a fit was the bars.

    Plus, there's something to be said about riding a bike that you chose every component on it.

  32. Better yet…buy used parts. Build your own, then youll know the ins and outs of the bike and save huuuuuge money avoiding shops.

  33. Trying to sell a bike that was new and ridden once so this was informative. Also now know what to look for to rebuild and repair my brothers old mountain bike I ride.

  34. What are the two holes in the down tube at @8:04? I have them on a bike too but can't work out what they're for – mine appear threaded so presumably not for drainage, but too close together to hold a bottle cage. Is there some kind of Di2 bit that would mount there?

  35. Needs to address the issue of used bikes being sold by someone other than the ones that uesd to use them.

  36. well. just rode it for 20min to see what it does. but great deals can be had . got a last years urban model, roadbike but flat bars , that i cannot find anywhere for less than 500, rather 700, on eBay for just 120. new except for dirt n Little bit of spiderwebs. good eBay advice: make it so your auction doesnt end midday or in the middle of the night because many People will Forget About bidding and you dont get a good Price.

  37. ebay is a Kind of uniquely bad and good place for bicycles. high shipping Costs often mean you can only pickup the bike, which means less offers that are worth the drive, but less bidding Competition if somethings close.

  38. In 2014 I had bought my first own road bike, a Stevens San Remo from 2009 with a Tiagra 9-speed for only 220 EUR incl. Saddlebag. The only problem was the tires, with cutouts and after half a year the rear wheel hub broke completely. Since then I have paid 110 EUR for used rims, 220 EUR for new chainrings, sprocket, chain and tires.

    But the GCN's Cheap Bike motivated me to upgrade my old Stevens with a Vision Team 30 wheelset and a fi'zi:k Arione saddle. The groupset I'm still a bit uncertain, a 105 would probably be overkill, because then I can also buy a new road bike directly.

  39. Thank you for this video. For the little chain tool, I was toled you can measure it easily with a measuring stick.

  40. Got a Devinci roadbike. Was first ever roadbike. Wow…Had no idea how fast these things go. I was track athlete in my day so i'm thrilled. Now I want some really awesome and used. Suggestions? Cannondale Synapse 2015, Giant TCR Alliance 0 2009, Kona Lisa RD, Giant Defy 0 2011, Opus Vivace 2004, 2009 Trek Madone 5.2 , 2014 Giant Defy, Giant Defy 3 2012, 2012 KHS Flite 700, Trek 5200, Opus carbon road bike…….

  41. I bought second hand then slowly upgraded components. Just bought another used bike that was a 'mechanic special' for the carbon frame and put all my components onto it. Going to sell the left over components for about what I paid for the whole bike : )

  42. Can't believe my good luck… finding this video from (the two of) you! I'm starting to shop for a good used road bike…. your advice is priceless! Where do I send brownies for you?? (I'm serious.)

  43. Next month i plan to get a 2020 giant contend 3 and i plan to oneday get carbon forks for it … No crash required 😞🚲😃

  44. A month ago i got a ‘80 retro road bike with Suntour mech, and cro-mo tange triple buted tubing frame in good condition for 15€

  45. I wish I watched this 2 months ago before buying my first road bike. Used.
    Turns out I need all new cables and a whole drive train…..
    A Giant OC3, I'm in Canada and I paid 275. My local shop is doing everything it needs for 310.00. New drivetrain, cables and wraps.
    Did I get ripped off?
    I love the bike and have fallen in love with cycling because of it. Every time I look at it I wanna ride.

  46. As a newb, this is such a varying checklist that it becomes overwhelming to consider trying to tick off all these boxes whilst in the middle of a deal. I would feel uncomfortable doing this — when in reality I have little to know idea what are those key signs if i came across them. great video nonetheless but for myself, I feel i rather get a new bike on a discount and peace of mind as opposed to a used bike, then having to maintenance it and do some swap outs.

  47. Small cracks in carbon seatpost are generally not fatal to to the bike. In fact a lot of the time its just the clear that is cracked and the structure intact.

    I'd not be scared of a small crack in a seatpost, its pretty common.

  48. So, he's saying, don't sell to people like those who appear at 0:48 – as they are obviously a biased, sports umpire idiot, who can't see straight and has sex with his own Mother!

  49. i mean i’m getting a $800 Colorado comp 27.5+ for 250 and i went off if it had stock parts that weren’t in bad shape it was a good buy

  50. Ping the spokes and listen for big note changes, buckled wheels can be hidden.
    Just serviced my brothers bike he bought used; the rear derailleur cage top jockey wheel bolt had split the cage from over tightening, there was also signs of crash damage, the B adjustment screw seemingly does nothing also. But he's ridden across France on it so things aren't always bad, especially if you're not anal with your components. 😊

  51. Used – got an immaculate 2 year old bike for about 50% of new price – admit it was a bit of a punt but turned out well in the end

  52. I actually bought a second hand bike that was for testing at the dealership :))…..bought it at 10% of the actual price, because it was ridden and somewhat 5-6 years old……
    I got dibbs on a 3000$ bike with only 100 km at only 400$. Had 0 issues.

  53. my last couple road bikes i bought used. The deals are tremendous. A few year old bike in great shape can be had for 2/3rds off. As an ex bike mechanic I give it the 2x over and minor things are not problem for me.

  54. Of course let them buy those expensive bikes after seing those videos. After couple of years you can buy a used buy for reasonablr price.( After all its a bicycle) Replace some components. You are good to go.

  55. Sherlok Holmes missed an important part. Size of the used bike,or how does it fits you. Because you cannot change it since its preowned. You dont buy a used bike unless atleast 50-30% off!

  56. if ytoure goign ot buy second hand ,. you should never have to be SNEAKY , do a proper inspection until you are happy… lol this guy man honestly

  57. Most of my bikes are second hand purchased from E-Bay, but I have been fortunate, they were pristine purchased by people who just never got into cycling like they wanted to. The best aluminum bike I got was a Specialized Allez which is super light and can fly uphill. My first carbon fiber bicycle is a 2007 Trek Madone.

  58. Nice meerschaum you got there… and you can’t really go wrong with a calabash too… now pack it and light it!

  59. Luckily you didn't mention my crash damage
    My crank is bent
    You can only tell by switching to the smallest gear at the cassette & biggest gear at the crank. My chain will rub my front derailleur once every revolution

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *