Now we are going to install a double din screen stereo on a third generation Toyota Avalon This Gen covers models from 2004 up to 2012, but this procedure only applies to 2010 models Since from 2011 the dashboard has changed. In the many challenges we must face one of the space destined for the stereo The curved shape on the original stereo and some other measurements. One of the reasons I decided to replace this stereo even that it sounds exelent It only plays one CD at the time, no Mp3, no aux inputs, it plays cassettes and it was close to play vinyl records and 8 tracks tapes. All the contrary the new stereo plays MP3, DVDs, Reads USB and Micro SD memories, Auxiliary inputs, it has a screen, Backup camera input and Subwoofer outputs I got a the connections diagram from the old stereo in the internet and paired the old inputs to the outputs of the new stereo. Located the inputs for the ground, battery, acc, speakers and the Steering well controls. And leave the cable for backup (reverse) light and parking brake ready to be connected at the end. The tape player harness won’t be use anymore. Besides that, there are two cables from the avalon that we still need to connect and the new stereo doesn’t have input for those. We still need the old stereo since it is need for the information center (blue screen) to work. Let’s unpack the new stereo and make sure it works because if it doesn’t, I have to return it to the store. Connecting the power, speakers.. Connect a memory or some sort of music source to test the sound. We’ll be testing the remote control also.. This stereo doesn’t have the signals for the blue screen of the avalon.. And I don’t think any aftermarket stereo will.. It does have inputs for the steering well controls. and not only for Toyota, it has also for Mazda, Chevrolet, and other brands. One of the reasons I wouldn’t recommend this stereo is because it takes way too much time to read a memory.. no mater if it is a USB or Micro SD, it takes as long as 3 minutes to read a memory.. Even if it just has two songs on it. Regularly on brands like this one you expect an awful sound.. But this equipment sound decent, not as good as the original. What you hear bad in your speakers is the mic saturation and not the stereo. to build the new harness and avoid destroying the original harness in the avalon, I took apart the stereo from a Toyota 4Runner, I leave you here the link to the review I made about that stereo Before making any permanent connection, I have to test that each ping in the diagram I got from the internet, Because if it doesn’t, I can blow up the car’s computer or the new stereo. With the help of the Multimeter, I check each and every connection.. Finding the ground, battery, accessory, To test the speakers we can use a small battery (1.5 volts) rapidly connection and disconnecting the cable and we should hear a sound like if you were scratching the cone of the speaker. That the way we test the connection to each speaker. Once we are sure that each pin in the Avalon correctly corresponds to each pin in the diagram We can connect each wire from the harness of the new stereo to the connector of the old stereo that we took apart. With the help of the iPad, I check each and every pin that must be connected to the harness. Also, be very careful that the pins doesn’t touch each other. In this case I will use Heat Shrink Tubing. you can use electrical tape or hot glue or what ever you have. Once the harness is assembled, we need to test it in the car and check that everything is connected correctly. Connect our harness to the Avalo’s harness And connect the new stereo checking that the memory’s power is working correctly and the stereo only powers with the accessory switch on. Note the two wires that were not connected, those are for the parking brake and the back-up light. Watch carefully the blue screen on the top.. This is the Avalo’s information center.. It tells you the A/C status, fuel consumption, how many miles you can travel with this fuel, Which door is open, And just before removing the old stereo, it used to tell you the music source you were hearing. The steering well controls must be configured in the stereo since it doesn’t work by default. Each bottom must be configured in the settings menu of the stereo. I’m going to test the bluethoot connection to the phone and the well controls. This stereo is capable of receiving streaming music via bluethoot besides making and taking calls.. But since this car didn’t have bluethoot it doesn’t have Steering well controls for taking or making calls I’m going to use one of the “SEEK” buttons that I use less in order to assign it as a call button. I’m going to ask somebody to call me in order to check that I can use the Steering Well button to answer a call. As I said earlier, in order to keep the information center working, we must have the original stereo installed too. The good news is that you just have to connect 5 wires (Ground, Batt, Acc, TX+ and TX-) There is already a pre-made harness for this but it is too expensive for me and you have to install the original stereo in the trunk. And for that you have to route all the cabling from the dashboard all the way to the trunk. Once we test successfully that with only those 5 wires and the motherboard of the original stereo the blue screen works.. now we can modify the harness to make both stereos work at the same time. I was afraid that since I removed the CD player and the controls from the stereo it would’t work and it turns out just fine. Just wanted to clarify that I disassembles the original stereo in order to make it fit in the space below or behind the new stereo. This is how the two stereos are going to be connected. Once we are sure it is working, we can permanently join all the wiring and use Heat Shrink Tubbing to avoid a short. I’m going to cover the OEM stereo’s motherboar in bubble pack to avoid shots also. I’m also leaving the Heat Sink installed since I don’t know if the amplifier will still getting hot even that it won’t be playing anything trough it. It si better to be there and don’t need it, that needing it and don’t be there. Connect the new stereo and test again. Once disassembled, the original stereo fits in there even that we didn’t need to remove the tape player. The bubble pack wrapping will help to reduce noise because of the vibrations. Before assembling everything in place, we must test again that everything works perfectly. Besides tha electrical adaptations, we must adapt it mechanically too. To make the new stereo fits in the support of the original stereo. The shape of the original stereo is very different from the new one. The support frame has two points that fit in the original stereo but won’t fit in the new one, those has to go. I had to remove the door that used to cover the original stereo in order to make the new stereo fit. Test again and make sure everything works even the steering well controls. Look for the Parking Switch and Back-up light wires in the hub of connections of the car. If we find those wires here at the front you don’t have to route cable all the way from the back-up lights up to the dashboard. I leave under the passenger’s seat al the RCA cables for the backup camera and the subwoofer amplifier.