Toyota Head Bolt Repair using TIMESERT Universal Head Bolt Thread Repair kit

Toyota Head Bolt Repair using TIMESERT Universal Head Bolt Thread Repair kit


this is Tom with Jerry’s Tap Removal we specialize in the repair of
broken bolts broken taps and often the repair of damaged threads of what we have here is a Toyota that overheated that pulled the threads the vehicle came in here they have us Time-Sert it which is about the best fix…
is the best fix that you can use it’s a very common problem we have a Toyota here and
we have a Toyota behind us and they both came in for the same
problem pulled threads Toyota Camry’s,
Highlander’s, RAV4’s we have a Scion behind this car
this particular motor has a problem of overeating and when
it over heats it generally expands that head
swells the head weakens the thread
ultimately pulling the thread rendering it weak so that it does not
hold torque so commonly what a mechanic will do
is change a head gasket try and put it… have the head
resurfaced put it back together and at that point usually discovers that
that particular hole or all the holes are not not gonna hold the factory torque spec at that point they send it over here
to have that hole repaired the method that we use
for repairing that thread is installing a solid threat insert made by a company called Time-Sert
or Time Fastener Company this is their kit here
you see in the video this is a picture of the insert that
we’re going to install it’s 30mm long the inside
diameter is original stock 11 by 1.5 the outside diameter is a typical STI
or standard thread insert size it’s about a half size over what we’re going to do is were going to install a fixture on top of this motor three steps to it
we’re gonna drill it we’re gonna counter boar it
so that the head of the insert fits down inside these holes the thread starts at three
inches from the service so we’re going use their kit
and their fixtures to bolt to the top of the of this head for alignment and then we’re going to
at that point do all out machine worked
to get the hole prepared for installing the Time-Sert this kit that were showing you right now
is made by Time Faster Company
it’s called a Time-Sert Kit it’s a eleven by one point five
universal head bolt repair kit well what we have
in the kit is first of all our guide going to be
installed in this location right here we have the core drill what they call a step drill
or a core drill it has two diameters the smaller diameter is for the size of the trend that we’re going to put in it the larger diameter is for the counter boar which
oversizes the hole to allow the head of the insert
which you can see has a head on it or a shoulder now that’s what stops the insert from
going too deep step right here in the core drill will
determine how deep this goes this particular drill
comes with a collar or a stop
that’s adjustable this comes in contact with
the bushing that you install in the fixture it will stop it will control
the height of the hole that your drilling which is important because this second diameter on this core drill is what determines the height of the insert or where the inserts stops and where we want the insert to stop is
exactly three inches from the surface of the head now at this point i have the guide plate or fixture on location using the locating pin and two bolts that are going into good threads holding
this plate into position preparing it for machining so at this point we install a bushing that is used that actually fits this
core drill right here that does the drilling and the counter boring for this
job this bushings gonna slip in this hole Once that bushing is in that hole then this drill is gonna drop down inside and we’re gonna drill our hole Time-Sert provides a scale that you use to measure
from the shoulder on this core drill up to where you want to drill to stop so you take that measurement which we have and that’s correct that’s exactly where I want it to stop you lock this collar in place with a set screw now Time-Sert has made this tooling so you can
use a standard or conventional electric drill in this case we’re using
a Milwaukee what we like to use here for our lubricant
lubricating the drill is WD-40 we’re gonna squirt
a little bit in the hole and it helps the cutting so at this point now we’re gonna go
ahead and were going to put the core drill in we completed our core drill
you gotta completely blow the hole out all the chips if chips say pack up in the bottom of the whole then the tap that you use for the threading will not go deep enough
it’ll pack up against the chips at the bottom of the
hole so at this point you reinstall the bushing which guided the core drill
which also guides the tap will put the tap in here i think rather than under power I’m gonna go ahead and hand tap this
because I have a little more feel for that you get a better feel for when your the bottom of the it’s taping beautifully materialists that what I love about Time-Serts kits is that their core drill diameters are right on the size
their counterboring diameter is right on size which is all part of the core drill the smaller diameter being the diameter for the tap and the larger diameter being oversized to allow the head of the insert to go down inside and stop at the diameter that we predetermined by adjusting the collar on Time-Serts core drill so at this point now we’ve completed our taping also at this point I can remove the fixture or the guide plate that Time-Sert provided we can put this away now okay at this point we have what they call their third tool which is an installation tool so what takes place when you install this insert is it not only finishes threading the insert in but it finishes installs the insert finishes threading and expands the
bottom and that in conjunction with lock tight holds the insert in we can partially install the insert but has to be free of any grease or oil so a lot of people will use break clean
my preferences is acetone you can’t have any grease or oil or the lock tight that we’re gonna use to hold that insert in will not hold ok the next step is to install the insert that we just prepared the hole for I’ll put the Time-Sert part way on the installation tool drop a little bit of lubrication in here that helps the tapping the finished tapping or the installation of the insert it lubricates the tool and the insert the next thing you do is put a small drop of high-temperature
lock tight that Time-Sert provides in their head bolt
repair kit so we’re ready to install the insert you feel a little bit of pressure from the installation tool Time-Serts installation tool going past the tap finishing threading and expanding the bottom and that concludes that repair the inserts in all I have to do is back the tap back out and the Time-Sert is installed and installed at the right height the original height of where the threads begin on this
motor from the factory three inches from deck this is another Toyota Block that we fixed out of hundreds over the last six months that will have no future problem I would say beyond they’re better than stock they have a nice steal inserted in them now the head bolts held in by steel inserts not by the
original aluminum they’re locked tightened they will not come out and they will hold the proper torque if not a little more I would say I probably do in the range of a half a dozen a month of Toyota’s of different models this same motors used in the Scion and Highlander and the RAV4 so it’s a very common motor and this problem is very common
and it always starts with overheating when the motor overheats and the motor expands it softens the aluminum it stretches the threads the best fix for that is to instal a Time-Sert

About the Author: Michael Flood

65 Comments

  1. This video is leagues better than your BMW head one, since you actually showed your work rather than repeat yourself 5 times over haha. Thanks for posting this, it was a pleasure watching a master do his craft.

  2. Very well done, in fact we will post your video on our websites. Out of the hundreds of Time Sert 2200 kits that we've sold (with free next day shipping) 99 percent of them are for the same Toyota models you've mentioned. Usually the middle back four bolt holes fail. We always recommend doing all ten though, to help insure there's no more problems. 

  3. Nice job. I prefer the timesert kit over the NS300 kit. I timeserted a great number of northstars in the past. Great, high quality kit.

  4. I used the 11×1.5x30mm timesheet but notice the original head bolts don't go as far down to their original height. Will I need shorter head bolts? Or longer insert?

  5. I am not sure it even has to over heat. I think the fist over heat is caused by the loss of seal.  Also what is the total hours of labor? 

  6. Better off having the holes machined to the next size up metric head bolt. Don't expect to get more than 12,000 miles out the engine before the head starts to come loose the time serts rip out. Happens all the time on Northstar engines repaired with time serts…….

  7. Question? how did you determine which head gasket bolts failed, were they still torquing down tight even though they were lifting or stripped or was the head gasket constantly blowing? It's only been a year an my head gasket is blown again.

  8. Can you explain when using the tap why you didn't back off to break chips? Obviously it cut threads just fine. I'd like to know if and when you should back off when cutting threads.

  9. Hello Tom! Where are you located? I have a leaking head bolt p/s rear on a 99' Toyota Corolla VE 1.8L 1ZZ-FE. Great video! Precise!

  10. Great video, thank you for the detailed explanation of all the steps you're going through. You can tell by those thumbnails you work for a living!

  11. Thanks for this video. I ended up doing the job after your recommendation, here. I was able to save my mom's RAV4 from being sold with a bad motor at a huge loss, and now she has been driving it for almost a year. For someone who can work on cars and has the tools, it takes about 3 days, with a helper, or longer, for your first time. Some things are incredibly difficult to figure out and require a variety of socket related extensions, u-joints, etc. but it is doable. Having a Harbor Freight nearby helped. I also had to make a custom tool for holding the crank pulley, since I didn't want to go buy one. 
    I'm able to do this job in two days, now, by myself, for anyone in the DC area. You can message me on YouTube or find me on Facebook under Marc Stinebaugh. Price will be half or less than half what a shop would charge you. Their recommendation is always swap the engine, which is ridiculous.

  12. Thank you very much Tom, you helped me a lot by posting this video. I fixed my Mama's 02 Toyota Camry that recently pulled the block threads, with the help of your video. The kit was pricey, but well worth the fix. I did the whole thing myself. To all of whom own these Toyotas, these are the early symptoms: It all started with a PO420 diagnostic code, then the gauge began to climb a month or two later. Exhaust gas smelled of a sweet smell of antifreeze. That's a tell tale sign that your head-gasket, or head has failed. Do not drive the vehicle like this.

  13. buy the time you buy a new machined head gasket and get new bolts you might as well get a remanufactured engine for 1400 bucks

  14. Thank you a lot, from your video am asking my mechanic to use Time Sert not Helicoil.
    If you were nearby I would have brought it to you,
    you explained the history similar to my case.

  15. Good informative vids , unfortunately my 4 banger. Highlander 2004 needs this job , mechanic called and said head is at the shop,and his going to install time Serts on all six he said .toyota you suck

  16. Nice touch on using duct tape to keep chips out of the cylinders and coolant passages. Much more elegant solution than stuffing rags in the holes.

  17. I'm glad you put inserts in all the head bolt holes instead of just the
    ones that fail. IMO it's the best approach for this situation.

    There are a few reasons for that, for anyone who doesn't understand why
    you would fix more than what is observed to be broken:

    1. All the head bolts on any specific engine experience the same
    conditions. This means that if one bolt pulled the threads out of the
    block after overheating, the rest can be assumed to be similarly
    damaged.

    2. Inserts themselves are cheap, and the tools to install them are a
    one-time cost. This means a shop that installs inserts will likely lose
    more money to comebacks than they will save by not putting inserts in
    all 10 head bolt holes.

    3. The part of installing head bolt inserts that takes the most time is
    just getting at the block in the first place. This means it doesn't cost
    much more in labor time to install inserts for all of the head bolts
    versus replacing just a few of them.

    Source: I'm an auto mechanic, and I'm the son of an auto mechanic.

    Side note: I live in NY. You only see a 10 year old car without rust up
    here if the owner garages it and regularly washes it especially during
    the winter months. Or if it was originally a southern car and was only
    recently moved up here.

  18. After watching your video, I decided to go the same way. I have 8 holes done, but I'm trying to determine how to get the cylinder head dowels out of the block. To do all 10 holes, they need to come out, and obviously be replaced. Are these available somewhere?

  19. very informative video. thank you. I have 1981 rabbit diesel. multiple holes' threads are broken hopefully I will follow your video step by step but I just wonder what is the torque time sert can handle. mine need 66Lb feet.

  20. I am currently doing this job on an 03 camry. Someone had already had a go at all of the intake side holes with heli-coils, all at variying depths. All of the exhaust side holes were virgin aluminum. I was set on this path with a multiple cylinder misfire code. found that the intake valves on 2 and 4 were no seating with the cam at the closed positions. It seems like the seats were collapsed and allowed the valves to stay open. The head on this engine has the seats cut straight into the head. (I thought they all used hardened seats, for god sake lawnmowers have hardened seats!) Using the time-sert kit was easy to use, but a very meticulous process for knocking out all 10 holes. I would like to get others opinions now though. I have come across a Toyota TSB that states if there is any thread damage on the 2 pairs of holes on the ends, that the short block should be replaced. The TSB does not explain any reasoning behind this so I assume this is a sales/scare tactic. Does anyone know why the tsb would say to replace the block if those end holes are damaged? I cant recall any difference in feed pressure as i was core drilling those holes as opposed to the others. All of the inserts threaded down to the same depth seemingly with no trouble. From the comments, it looks like most of you are setting all 10 inserts with the job, that makes me feel better about what i have already completed, im just hoping for some positive feedback. thanks for the great video!

  21. and you would think that using a ratchet is just wollering out the hole even as much. if you use taps why not use a tap wrench to have equal ammounts of pressure evenly?

  22. Great narration and camera work. You're a true craftsman. You know what you're doing and do a great job at you explaining what you're doing. I really enjoyed this video. Please keep up the good work!

  23. Great explanation and a great video, thank you! I have a question – bearing in mind you have repaired hundreds of these engines – is this factory design flaw also concernig the 2.0 litre 1az -fe engine as well. And if yes, is the problem solved in the same engine (1az fe) in Rav4 Xa30 model from 2007 onwards. Thank you.

  24. As you drilled the guide bushing lifted. I would have thought the guide bushing was to stay seated and the depth was based on the stop bushing reaching the guide bushing?

  25. Great video and explanation, I used a Time Sert kit a few years back on a Honda J-32 motor thread repair. Can't say enough good things about the quality of their product. Thank you for posting your excellent work !

  26. I am trying to find out if the head bolts should go in dry or be slightly lubricated. I can not find an answer on their web site or anywhere else so far. I am hoping that since you do the thread repairs you might have the answer to that question.

  27. What he got it wrong is that in Toyota's case, head bolts stripped causes coolant leak and then engine overheating. It is an engine design flaw Toyota refused to acknowledge. Not the other way around as suggested by him that overheating engine causes bolts to be stripped. Overheating is the symptom, not the cause.

  28. Are you taking warfarin tablets Jerry? That was nice tutorial I had same trouble on one 2AZ engine did not realised that over heating was the reason striped of those treaty . I cold get aluminium insert which I think made from brass or stainless still would be better. In my repaired some drill go through to sump chamber . The engine surface and head become distorted and aluminium lose their temper (soften) that all effect the good dealing of the head gadget which is only made from 3 layer of shin. Good luck is required.Toyota engineer had design a unrepeatable engine! I found out little hardness tester with steel ball test device could be useful for hardness of the engine and head surfaces be fore apply expensive repaired.

  29. You guys do first-rate jobs. Can someone please explain to me how installing a steel insert in an aluminum block is stronger. It's still aluminum holding the insert.

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