Truck Wheel Offset Explained | How To Choose Wheel Offset For Your Ford F150 – The Haul

Truck Wheel Offset Explained | How To Choose Wheel Offset For Your Ford F150  – The Haul

Sunk, flush, rub, poke, backspacing. What does it all mean? Don’t worry, guys. We’re gonna break it all down for you on this
episode of The Haul Offset Edition. What’s up, guys? Justin with and welcome
to our video about all things offset. What is it, how it’s going to affect the fitment
of your wheels and lastly, what will be the best bet for you and your rig? We plan on covering all of that in this video
in addition to showing you a few different offset examples on our 2018 here. So with all that said, what do you say we
get rolling? Now, in a nutshell, offset is defined as the
distance of the wheel’s mounting surface in relation to the center line of your wheel
measured in millimeters. Now an easy way to think about this, guys,
is that if the wheel’s mounting surface is located in the direct center or middle of
the barrel of the wheel that would essentially have a zero or neutral offset. Now if that mounting surface falls behind
the center line, a little bit closer to the inside lip of the wheel then you have what
is called negative offset. Think about tho super wide wheels with the
big old lip. This is usually achieved by placing that mounting
surface deep within the barrel of the wheel to give you that nice, big, aggressive lip. Now these wheels typically have a high negative
offset and are responsible for that poke that we’ll demonstrate in a little bit. On the flipside, if the wheel’s mounting surface
falls on the other side of that center line, a little bit closer to the outer lip of the
wheel, that’s referred to as positive offset and that’s what you’re gonna find with most
stock wheels including the F150 which have an offset of plus 44. Now that’s 44 millimeters from the wheel center
line. Now, usually, guys, the higher the offset,
the more the wheel itself will be pulled into the wheel well which doesn’t always give you
the most aggressive look but will usually result in the best fitment because the more
you deviate from that stock offset, the better chance you have of introducing some rubbing. Now you can’t talk about offset without mentioning
backspacing and it is very important to point out their relation but also their differences. Backspacing is defined as a measurement from
the wheel’s mounting surface to the inner edge or a lip of the wheel itself. Essentially, the amount of wheel in inches
that will extend inward towards your suspension. Now this is different from offset but there
is also some relation between the two. Case in point, the more positive offset you
have the more backspacing a wheel will have given the same width and vice versa. So that’s why you don’t really see many 20
by 12 wheels with a really high positive offset because that wheel would no doubt interfere
with your truck’s suspension components. Now even though backspacing is very important
to be aware of, most of you guys won’t have to worry about that when shopping for wheels
here on our site for your specific gen. Why? Well, because most if not all wheel manufacturers
are gonna offer wheels with the correct amount of backspacing to fit 99% of setups for your
particular year range. Instead, the big variables you guys will need
to be concerned with are diameter, width and of course offset which will determine just
how much poke you are looking to achieve with your stance. What is poke? Well, as the name implies, it’s the amount
the wheel and tire will poke or stick out of your fender when installed. Now if you guys were paying attention earlier
you already know that the aggressive negative offset wheels will typically give you a little
or a lot more poke depending on your offset where as a stock or similar positive offset
will put the wheel typically in the wheel well itself. And then finally, guys, you’re gonna be offset
somewhere in the middle there to achieve what is called more of a flush fitment. But what does it all mean when it comes time
to seeing them on your truck? Well, we just so happen to have three offset
examples here today to show you guys on our leveled 2018 F150. A factory offset of plus 44, a plus 12 offset
which will achieve more of that flush fitment and then finally a negative 24 offset which
will demonstrate some poke. Now the purpose of this is to not only show
you how offset affects your stance but also the challenges, if any, with fitment when
it comes down to rubbing. So with all that said, what do you say we
check it out? All right, guys. I do wanna remind you again upfront that this
truck is leveled two and a half inches thanks to a Supreme Suspension’s kit and the three
different wheel and tire combos we plan on showing you here today will have a very similar
wheel and tire size but that big variable again will be offset. We really wanna show you how that affects
the wheel fitment on your particular truck. So let’s get into it. First up, guys, we have the factory STX wheel
here on the F150, 20 by 8 and a half for the wheel with a plus 44 offset. Now that wheel is wrapped in the Mickey Thompson
Baja ATZ, 285/55R20 which essentially works out to be a 32 and change by 11. Now again that plus 44 offset, well, it looks
like a factory offset, right? The wheel and tire is pushed nicely into that
wheel well. No flushness, no poke, anything like that
and because of that there’s really no rubbing to be aware of with this combination thanks
to that small level in addition to the factory offset. Now throwing a larger tire on your factory
wheel is a very popular move for a lot of truck owners out there for a number of reasons. First and foremost, gonna be the most cost
effective way to do something like this, right, because you don’t have to buy a completely
new set of wheels on top of your tires, tossing in TPMS sensors, lug nuts and everything else,
it’s going to be the most budget friendly way to get the more aggressive tire on your
rig. Secondly, because of that factory offset rubbing
is essentially a nonissue as long as you don’t overshoot your tire size. And what I mean by that is, guys, don’t expect
to throw on a 37 with your stock wheel and a 2 inch level because, well, that simply
will just not work. Now because this thing is rocking the factory
offset and because the wheel and tire is completely in the wheel well as Ford intended you’re
gonna have full articulation or movement of your wheel and tire here and better off, you’re
not gonna be slinging mud, dirt, rocks, whatever down the side of your truck like you would
with a more aggressive offset that is left uncovered. The only drawback to something like this with
the factory offset is that it’s not exactly known for its aggressive stance because of
the lack of flush or poke here. But if you’re okay with that and you don’t
mind the factory offset and the look that goes along with that, gonna save yourself
a lot of money. You’re gonna save yourself some trimming. But what do you say we get a little bit more
aggressive with offset and show you how to achieve a more flush appearance? Now when we’re talking flush fitment what
we really mean is the orientation of the wheel and tire in regards to the fender here. It’s nice and flush as you can see. The wheel’s not poking out too much and it’s
not sunken in like it was with the factory offset. How did we achieve that? Well, this particular setup is gonna be the
Black Rhino York Wheel 20 by 9 with that same Mickey Thompson 285/55R20 that we had on our
last setup. The big difference here, guys? You guessed it. Offset. This particular wheel features a plus 12 offset
which essentially is going to stick the wheel out about an inch and a quarter further than
that plus 44 offset of our stock wheel. What does that make for? Well, that flush fitment that we just talked
about in a very popular look for a lot of truck owners out there. Why? Well, again, you’re getting a slightly more
aggressive stance over the factory offset but at the same time by not poking the wheel
out of the wheel well you’re not gonna be flinging a bunch of stuff and you still really
don’t have to worry about any trimming or rubbing with this plus 12 offset. Had full articulation of the wheel and tire,
lock to lock, no rubbing whatsoever. You can even probably get a little bit closer
to a zero or neutral offset if you wanted but the plus 12 really is a great example
of how to achieve a flush fitment here with your F150. But now what do you say we dive into those
negative offsets and show you what a little bit of poke looks like? All right, guys. Last but not least, our third and final example
with our offset video. You wanted to see a little bit of poke. Well, here you go. This is the Fuel Krank wheel, 20 by 10 but
more importantly, a negative 24 offset. So let’s talk about them a little bit more. As you can see, guys, again, 20 by 10 is the
size of the Fuel Krank wheel and because we did go a little bit wider with this wheel
to achieve a negative 24 offset we also had to put a wider tire on this thing to accommodate
that wider wheel. So now in its place a 305/55R20 still working
with that same Baja ATZ from Mickey Thompson. Now as you can see, guys, negative 24 offset
is gonna poke the wheel out almost two inches from your fender here which again makes for
a very aggressive look. Don’t get me wrong. But at this point fitment certainly becomes
an issue because if you think about it, you’re moving the pivot point so far out of the wheel
well so now the wheel is gonna move and at that point interfere with things it didn’t
before. Front and rear crash bars are all but a given
at this ride height in addition to some of your plastic as well. If you wanna achieve this much stance or this
much poke you must be prepared to modify your truck accordingly. Now, in addition to that, guys, because you
are sticking this much of your tire from the wheel well you’re gonna sling all kinds of
junk down the side of your truck. We’re talking dirt, mud, rocks, snow, whatever,
unless you go for some sort of aftermarket fender flare to cover them up. Not everybody’s a big fan of flares on these
trucks. Some people prefer the look of a little bit
of poke, myself included but some local laws will even mandate you cover your tires at
all times or you might even catch a fine. So now that you know a little bit more about
this setup, if you want that aggressive look, negative offset is the only way to roll. Well, guys, we hope you enjoyed this installment
of all things offset. We hope it clarified the subject a little
bit more for you guys at home. And again, if you have any questions or if
you wanna comment and let us know what kinda offset you prefer on your own rig, feel free
to drop us a comment below. But in the meantime, I’m Justin. Thanks for watching and remember, for all
things F150, keep it right here at

About the Author: Michael Flood


  1. Subscribe for Daily Ford Truck Videos:

    Check Out Parts For Your F150 Right Here:
    Wheel and Tire Setups From The Video:
    Black Rhino York Matte Gunmetal 6-Lug Wheel +12mm 20×9 –

    Fuel Wheels Krank Black Milled 6-Lug Wheel – 20×10 (04-19 F-150) -24mm offset –

    Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ P3 Tire –

  2. That's so awesome u came out with this video. Just so happens I'm waiting for the last parts of my lift to be delivered today. Have my tire/wheels sitting in the garage with a -24 wrapped in a 35"x12.50. perfect timing thanks

  3. Great video still wish there was a better way to know what tires would fit with what rim/level/stock ride height

  4. can you please discuss spacers? i love my stock wheels but need about 3/8" more… "poke" (thanks for the term!) to clear the fenders at full lock/full compression when loaded. most folks ive spoken with say "#$%#^#$&$ spacers -grouchgrouchgrouch…" i need an adult opinion.

  5. Good job explaining this. I personally hate poke or a negative offset. Its a total douche move seeing as anyone behind you is inevitably going to be eating thrown rocks/dirt. The guy that does push his wheels outside the fender rarely runs a mud flap too so this look pisses me off on the road. Personaly i think it looks retarded on a factory/spacer look. If you pop some flares on then its slightly ok but to each their own though. Just respect other drivers vehicles thats all i ask.

  6. Love the grey ford trucks! Think that is lead foot and the 2019 is called abyss grey, both of those are 🔥. Ordering one next year or might wait to see what the 2021 looks like

  7. I have +10 305 /55 's on my 17 f150 and I love that it just barely comes out past the fender… To each his own ✌️

  8. I am glad to see companies talking about what the wheel and tire combos will do to people's trucks in a realistic fashion. Will you guys get into how these setups change scrub angle and what that means for stability especially while towing?

  9. How come you didn't do this with a Chevy?

    Oh wait, you'd need an 8inch lift to fit the same size tire.

    35×12.5 on stock wheels, zero rub… Go Ford go.

  10. Nice clear video guys, the animations help a lot. I don’t have a very aggressive offset on my wheels, but I question how much less I would have needed to trim had I gone with a most positive offset wheel.

  11. This video should be at every tire and wheel shop in the country. Great explanation of what offset is. Awesome job

  12. You should mention that wheel bearings will suffer with more offset. Be prepared to replace sooner. Also steering components will suffer and a tendency to follow road imperfections.

  13. People always focus on looks when talking offset. And use words like “fitment” and “aggressive”.
    Factory wheels are designed to handle payload and towing ratings. Messing with the offset greatly changes the loads on the suspension, steering, wheel bearings, etc.
    Modified offset, larger tires, etc just wears out the truck faster.

  14. Moving the tire out like that puts additional wear on your suspension components, regardless of any rubbing, and could result in damage occurring during normal driving.

    When you move the wheel out like that, you're forcing the suspension to operate at an angle that it wasn't designed for. This can result in too much articulation that could damage your ball studs, bushings and linkage. Not only that, but every bump you go over is going to have more leverage, which could cause the suspension to wear out faster and will probably mean a rougher ride as well.

    Does it look cool? Sure. But there's really no functional reason to do it.

  15. I’d like to see a video where you show how terrible the average truck looks 3 years after running a lot of poke.

  16. okay so if I am not reading into this too much the factory offset should be the "new" zero IE: if my stock FX4 20's have a offset of +40 or so , if I was to get an offset of +18 then I would have a deeper lip than factory? And the further away from that +40 greater the lip and greater the poke? So doesn't a person need to know the factory offset to base everything from that?

  17. FYI, wheel width comes into play here as well as two wheels with the same offset yet one is wider than the other; the wider wheel will poke out more. Case in point is the first wheel was an 8.5" and the second was a 9". The wheel at the same offset would poke an extra 1/4" (or ~6mm) more. So going to a +12 in the 9" wide wheel from a +44 8.5" wheel has about the same poke as an 8.5" would at +6 offset.

    This is why these 20×12 -44 wheels poke out so much; it's not just the negative offset, it's the huge width change too.

  18. Great job and video. Thanks for clearing that up. Always wondered which offset to get and what was stock. In my case the +12 would be preferable.

  19. Just spent almost $1900 on the website today😅😅 got 18×9 with -12 offset for my new wheels. New exhaust, headlights, and intake. I’m excited. Plus I’m installing my leveling kit for my new wheels next week

  20. Hey can you please tell me a good exaust system to make my v6 sound like a v8 I got a 4.0 sports trac can u please do a video on that truck I believe the 4.0 in the ranger and the explorer are the same engine that's in the sports trac . Please if you can do a video off of that topic . Or give me some good info

  21. This story is covered in detail at Torque News at "Video Explains Ford F-150 Offsets and Helps Owners With Key Info About Tires"

  22. Love those tires with the +12 offset and the 2.5” leveling kit. Thinking about doing it to my 18 Lariat, my only concern is how much fuel economy would I be loosing if I went with that option, I have a long commute and every mpg counts.

  23. Great explanation Justin! I'm new with all this and have been shopping around for weeks. This helps out a lot. What do you recommend after installing flares to have 1/2" poke? What's confusing to me is I've seen your video with the +12 and others that look identical but say there's is -12 offset. Why is this? I have 2.5 level kit on my truck (2015 xlt) and I want to put 35" on 18" wheel and I want them to poke out like your +12 in the video. Flares will be added in future too. Help?

  24. I absolutely love this channel. I had no fucking clue what any of this meant I just wanted to put some bf's on the stock rims and level out the suspension with a 2.5".
    But now that Ive seen this I might want to explore this realm a bit lol.

  25. I have a 2018 F150
    With a 2.5 supreme suspension level
    17” BMF drt pro wheels 8.5 wide + 6 offset
    With atturo trailblade XT’s
    35×12.5×17 no rubbing at all and about an inch of poke

  26. Good video but I wish he would of showed how the -24 looked with flares , I see a lot of trucks with flares that make the truck look bad because they do not have enough offset to actually need the flair

  27. You didn't talk about the pros and cons of a negative offset. Does the truck drive better or worse? Is it smoother, more bounce or feels like stock?

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