Warranty Claim 2009 Audi B8 A4 2.0T Quattro Oil Consumption

Warranty Claim 2009 Audi B8 A4 2.0T Quattro Oil Consumption


here we have the 2009 Audi A4 Pistons.
you can see the Rings are all in place they look all right, but the ring here i
can get it to just zoom… Yeah. so the ring here is missing and when you look at it
it’s basically this right here it is broken, in multiple places, as you can see,
it’s all over the the table here. so this ring is broken same spot on distant two and three however 4, is still in in place, and you
can see what it would look like when it’s in place this is how it looks like. this is a ring and this one is installed, and is
undamaged. however this one is completely missing, the only thing that you see here
is the spring that holds it in place which is something that looks like that.
I’m trying to [get the camera to focus] yeah this is just a just a spring to hold it
to hold the ring in place everything else looks fine and clean
engine has no codes. those are the bearings the pistons… and the cams are clean, as you can see, this is the intake cam that’s the exhaust cam. and the
cam-lobes are good. they are passing there are no issues here. And the
internals of the engine look clean. so that’s only the top you can see the
rest is, well, here’s the car 2009 A4 . 2.0T, you have… well, AC has been removed to gain access, you have the radiator here the intercooler, comes as one unit, and
the AC condenser, AC condenser and radiator and intercooler. suspension is
good, car looks good… there are no issues no accidents, doesn’t seem like it’s been
damaged at all but when you look at the front of the engine if you pay attention to this here, I’ve
taken some pictures of it. you’ll notice that there is a crack here, and as I’m moving the tensioner, the
crack is there. this is independent of the piston damage [Piston Ring] this is a maintenance thing, and the tensioner, as well, will be replaced as part of the installation. It’s a standard procedure they do an inspection on the timing
chain so what they would replace would be the chain here the tensioner here as already be guide
here and the tensioner here everything else is fine but it would
need, coolant, oil, and freon [Refrigerant] etc. These are the fluids that need to be refilled for the engine to be put back together. as you can see, the engine the bottom side or
them that the the block is still installed, the engine head is here where the camshaft go, and as you can see, the internals of the engine look very very
clean, there are no issues of the burnt oil or or misuse or, or anything like
that. the car was never run with low oil because if it was you would see some oil
baked on to the different components here on the inside this is just the valve cover gasket and
whatever is left from the removal. it’ll be installed the a new one will be
installed. here you have the oil pump right here, and the sump, here, for the oil and some other various guides for the
chain this is part of the removal. now if you
look at this from the side. right here you have the head gasket which would be
at one time use, basically, so once it’s removed it cannot be reinstalled. the
bolts are one-time use as well. they are to be replaced
because once they are installed they stretch. and once they are stretched, they
can… once you remove them they will lose their capability of stretching so when
you try to install them again they will snap this is again a standard procedure and
all german cars and any car that i have worked on previously as well. maybe the
classics don’t have that, but… Some other components at the bottom of the engine
so here this is where the oil pan would sit. some of the bell housing attachment
that would go on here and the oil pan would come in here. I didn’t see the oil pan. oh, right it’s just the oil pan here [shop: oh no, that’s not the oil pan, sorry, that’s the cover, the oil pan needs to be replaced] the oil pan is pretty big [Shop: It’s full of rust, I think they put it in the Tub] OK, so, We’ll come back with the oil pan alright, so, as we were just a little
while ago so here’s the Oil-Pan, here’s the inside
of the Pan so you can see everything is clean, But on
the outside it’s getting rusty. it hasn’t leaked yet
but it’s getting rusty. i would recommend to replace as well. and the thread has
been repaired once. everything looks clean. as you can see, if i zoom in here,
there are no issues with with pitting or any holes on the fan from the inside. but
looking at this. it is coming pretty soon underbody of the vehicle, clean, all
panels are in place, indicative of no abuse I’m zooming and focusing as I go sorry about that that’s the the drive
shaft into the rear differential differential in the back. no leaks. some
surface rust, but everything is good. suspension in general is in very good
condition. looks very good. winter tires already installed that’s just some oil from the
consumption of oil consumption that is running through the engine into the back
you can see it from here this is actually not just [carbon build up], it… it has oil in it. side there are some surface rust here
not that it matters for our purposes but just showing the overall condition of
the vehicle then breaks seemed to be almost new i would say maybe sixty seventy percent
remaining it looks like a door has been painted
not that it matters again but this door seem to have, seem to have some work
done to it well it’s a That’s pretty much it all right you the the CAT [Catalytic Converter] yeah it’s the original Volkswagon that’s all she’s on everything is fine, intake looks clean here Mass air flow sensor cat and the back part the middle muffler they call it which
goes in here then it connects and it works its way I believe it’s through this side, into
the front all right

About the Author: Michael Flood

70 Comments

  1. how did you remove the upper pan with the trans still attached to the motor? doesn't the rear seal flange need to come off to remove the upper pan? would really like to know as I'm about to do this job on an a4 with a caeb motor.

  2. Did you ever find an explanation as to WHY these oil control rings were breaking? Generally the oil control rings don't see massively high temperature or pressure so the only things I could think of if that the rings were either too thin or too tight in the bores. I read that Audi ultimately fixed the excessive oil loss issue with a redesign of the piston/ring pack/con-rod assembly. Did you notice any difference between the old (broken) bits and the new bits you repaired the engine with? Thanks.

  3. Was this engine the CAEB model?

    The CAEB is the model with the high oil consumption problems that led to a class action lawsuit in the USA, and Audi agreeing to repair the engines to fix the problem. Just want to know if this is one of those engines.

  4. I have Audi a4 1.8 and just now i started the car, the engine started shaking. when I accelerate, black smoke comes out of the exhaust. do i have the same problem? the acceleration is decreased by the way.

  5. Thanks for the video, mate. Really interesting. My Q5 2.0 TFSI was also consuming a lot of engine oil.. about 1 litre every 3,000km. But what broke the engine was the timing skipped. My mechanic took the engine apart and saw the valves were bent as a result of the piston hitting them on the up cycle when the timing jumped. The timing chain tensioner could be the culprit which I'll get him to change anyways.. but what's interesting is the orange looking timing chain guide that you showed in your video as being cracked/broken. I need to get me mechanic to check that as well as he might've missed it.
    Very disappointed with Audi. The engine has only done 50,000km.

  6. 1 liter oil per 300km on 140,000 km engine, is that the issue Audi has to fix for free due to the failed piston size the engineers got payed but failed to deliver ? The engine works fine but the pistons have a bit gap with the cylinder wall and oil slips into the combustion chamber. On 1st,2nd and 3rd gear the Pistons shake cuz of that gap and creates a lack of torque, but from the 4th gears up to 8, the engine works fine and smooth and you can achieve the highest speeds of +200km/hr with the turbo working on the side so fine. I already changed the PCV valve to the AC version and the oil has stopped spitting from the muffler but it already damaged the turbo and probably the intercooler. Oil passing through the PCV valve into the air intake and turbo and leaking through the turbo gaskets into the intercooler on to the plastic air manifold, throttle body, and cylinder. Always carbon buildup in these parts Just due to a bad PCV valve that has a weak spring and a weak diaphragm that can't tolerate a high vacuum. Thats another engineering flaw. But I can't handout 10000 $ to rip the engine and change the Pistons because of a engineer that didn't do his work in professional manner. The reviews on 2.0T will go on and Audi has to pay the price of a drop in thier Yearly Revenue.

  7. Hi there.
    There is no way to take off the upper pan without damaging rear seal flange.
    Engine out and flywheel need to be taken off. So your video is just messing peoples mind.

  8. I noticed you said replacing the chain tensioner is part of the oil consumption fix and my Audi A5 is in the shop for the same reason but the dealer is making me pay for the tensioner and some other parts, is that right or its included?

  9. I also drive a 2009 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro and at around 149,000 miles the engine just started making more noise than before. It sounds like something might be clogged. Also whenever I turn on the vehicle, the engine seems to be wobbling and it doesn't automatically go below 1000 rpms. I wait until it does so, then does the engine sound a little more stable and ready to go. However, it still is making a lot more noise than it should. Any thoughts? Advice?

  10. Sell the German shit and get a real car like Lexus or even better an Infinity. 6 years old and has piston ring issues? jajajajajajajajaajajja

  11. Fine german engineering… Not really…

    These motors haven't changed much over the years but they keep on fking with them, and this is an example….

    Oh, and they charge a bucket of money for this Fine Engineering…

  12. Looks like the AUDI piston design is similar to SATURN S series-oil burning happens because the oil retention ring gets stuck (carbon buildup). I've been able to fix by using Rotella full synthetic (cleans out all the carbon).

  13. What is the exact model of this engine? I am considering to get one 2007 quattro but some engines like BUL and others have only problems with balancing shaft but no oil consumption. If I may ask what engine is this? Not a big fan of VW cars but still willing to get one.

  14. What a piece of crap!!! Those rings must have been made with the same defective German plastic as their tensioners and delicate head bolts. All this junk for an unbelievable over priced device…Can't call this a reliable car by any means.

  15. at 3:41 you can see made damage at rear main seal flange, its done for easy removal upper oil pan, was 2 bolts hold it, plus flange also has silicon, so haw can you put back together without proper installation those bolts ? just packing silicon ? crappy job, saved time to not remove engine and not installing new rear main seal. you can save time to not remove VALVE COVER, all head bolts accessible from special halls, plus now has to deal with variable valve height units

  16. My 2009 A4 that I bought from Audi Fairfield as a CPO has been burning oil ever since I bought it. I brought it back 2K miles after I bought it but Audi kept denying responsibility… Now that there was a Class Action settlement, Audi of America is willing to charge me half of the $6K to replace the piston rings. This is total BS. I keep getting the run around. Audi won't do the right thing, even though they lost a class action law suit – still giving me a hard time… German engineering is BS… DON"T BUY an AUDI… I own an S5 and an A4 and am furious at how Audi is treating me. They don't want to take responsiblity for their defective design which has been a problem ever since they sold me the car. I asked the service manager for the prior service history and they don't have it. They were willing to Certify the car when I bought it, but now they won't fix what has been wrong ever since I owned it. Stay away… Audi Fairfield says talk to Audi of America… Audi of America says it's not their problem – they will only cover $3K out of a $6K service to fix a defect that they are 100% responsible for… Try talking to anybody higher up and they pretend their is nobody to talk to…

  17. BTW, here is a good video of a guy who is fighting Audi to get his oil consumption repaired

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YS5p9BzNJo8

  18. How do you know the black tail pipe is oil, but not running rich~I have a car that has a black tail. I am trying to understand is it running rich or burning oil, I know oil is burning a little bit , maybe a third of one Qt every 5K miles.

  19. That piston squirt looks like minumum -0.03 mm od.That is no longer a good piston.Also it shows scratches on the piston squirt.That indicates lots of heat and expansion.So,insuficient oil cooling the bottom of pistons,no or not eficient oil cooler,high egt.So,bad engineering at factory,and/or,abused engine,and/or bad ecu modification and abuse.

  20. I had a question about the Audi 2005-2006 model with the 2.0 I believe it was. my older brother had one of these cars bought brand new from the Audi dealership and serviced only buy them. He had the car towed roughly 5 times because it would not start the car did not have 20,000 miles on it and it was only three years old at the time. They mentioned something about a valve issue but for some reason could never fix it properly. They eventually got him out of the lease early and he told them to fuck off. Could anybody tell me what was wrong with this particular engine. I personally knew somebody that had the same exact car only I believe it was 2008 2009 had over 160,000 miles with not one problem. Same 2.0 engine.

  21. hey, nice vid, but what about the oil filter, how often it was changed or in what condicion is it, now that you took the engine apart. and what brand of oil filter was used, if this is knowed. thank's.

  22. Sure a warranty claim after 9 years. Just leave the cylinder head on the floor. Very Pro. Man and I thought the head gasket was reusable….!!! Replacebthe oil,pan because of a bit of rust WTF.

  23. What should we do about our 2012 out of warranty A4 with 2.0T crap engine? Dealership wants to charge us $9000 to fix it, we bought it new from them in 2011. Car coulda been worth $15K now worth $2k in parts. I hate VW/ AUDI for this crap. What a bunch of crooks.

  24. I see scratch on that pistons its a lot burned oil (broken rings) So pistons oil pump need be changed for new one and you should go back to school…..

  25. audi is piece of shit company, liars.  2008 audi engine went at 103 miles and wouldn't call me back.  Did oil changes and every maintenance, was told its normal consumption and no one could ever tell me what was wrong with it

  26. yes lots of issues from bs designs aluminum cylinder are the bad issue heck mazda/ford has cylinder with a chrome cylinder liner 2.3l that nascar standards bmw n jeep dodge merc n more use alumaseal crap cheaponess

  27. Considering buying an Audi A4 2,0 TFSI Quattro. How can an oil pan rust? Is it (cast) iron? On my MINI it is aluminium. Also: removing the air condition to take out parts of the engine? And you have to drain and refill the freon gas also? What happened to the "Vorsprung durch Technik"?

  28. i have same problem with 1.8tfsi 4-cyl. consumption was about 1L/600km?! something like that, today brought my car to audi service for repairs, going to cost me 4k €. upgraded pistons/rings /chain and all other stuff that has to go with it. will say how it runs after its done, but still need to drive couple hundreds of km to say whats changed, since its a problem u cant see just like this, will come out over time and driven km.
    car is 2009 b8, 2010 model.

  29. Hello and great job on this video! I've seen some things I've questioned as I have faced same problem with my 1.8
    I would like to ask you: After these rings are replaced how many km are needed for the engine to get back to a decent and appropriate oil consumption. I have replaced mine and after 4500 I still have big oil consumption. The turbo is checked and it doesn't have a problem. I would appreciate it if you gave me a hint… Thanks

  30. Your catalytic converter is toast, i.e. flow-restricted,..replace it!

    It MIGHT Blow out, but i highly doubt it.

  31. My a4 b6 1.9tdi looks much better than this and it has 245 000k miles on it.. Something tells me there is something fishy here..

  32. Hey guys I have bought a 2010 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0L turbo and I only had it for 21,000 miles exactly and the engine went out it was going thru oil badly I brought it to Audi they acted as if they had never herd of such things but it's not been sitting in my yard now and I want to pull out the old engine and replace it then build another one I guess and I was going to upgrade turbo and install the anti lag tuning chip in it to make it faster and a little better fuel economy so please get back with me ASAP I would really like to see an break down of someone pulling the engine out of car

  33. Hi Car Inspection team, thank you for posting the video. I have only one question, is it possible to remove all 4 pistons without removing the engine from Gearbox ? I noticed in your video, engine is intact and connected to gearbox. many thanks in advance for your reply.

  34. Less than 1 month ago, I purchased a 2010 A4 2.0T with 37,00km.

    In the second week it went in for a gearbox warning.
    Ended up being a valve body repair.

    Now at end of my first month owning an Audi it has consumed 1litre in 500km.
    It is under observation for excessive consumption.

    I thought Germans were perfectionists, guess I was wrong.

  35. Please reply, I have 11 Q5, warranty was done at 79k miles. New pistons, new cam, new timing chain. 8k after rebuilding at audi dealer, lower radiator hose bust loose, spark plug broke, compression is 25,69,50,0. Dealership says needs new head. Any comment?

  36. The oil issues are a serious problem! My 2010 with 95K was going threw a quart per 150 miles, yes thats correct every 150 miles. The piston rings are to small for the cylinder and you''ll need to replace all the pistons and rings (rings are .5mm bigger then original), also the rear main seals leak and should be replaced. AUDI did address this in a half hearted recall but a dealer will not cover it unless you have all the service records AND all the work was done at an Audi dealer. Its a big deal and youre looking at an engine rebuild basically. Expect it to be from $2500-$4k to have done, the parts are probably $800-$1100 of that, you mind as well replace the timing chain tensioner and other parts while youre in there. Then you will need to clear out you Cat converter, all that oil being passed threw the exhaust isnt a good thing. Thankfully there are products like CataClean which are designed to help burn off the deposits in there. Im still dealing with that issue and the engine light comes on still from time to time P0420 which is a Catalytic sensor issue. The A4 is a super fun car to drive and is unlike any other Ive driven, if you live in snow country these are almost like recreational vehicles as theyre so stable and controllable if you do spin out. I will always say tho you need real snow tires, no all-seasons will be safe if you plan on optimal control. Also to note is that the rims from older audi's tend to not fit the 09's and up, the hub is a different diameter so be careful if you're looking to pick up an extra set of rims for Summer or Winter use. And lastly be careful with the hood latch release, it can easily come out of its track leaving you unable to open the hood without getting under the car and its just a shitty thing to deal with. On a positive note, I bought one of those UpGR8 air filters for less then 10 bucks on Amazon and its a quality filter for less then a crap paper one costs and has def aided in how my car runs

  37. Can you tell me if Addie replace the engine on a 2009 they will fix this issue? Looking at a 2009 Audi event 60 5K new engine at 60 K for 12 grand.

  38. I bought a 2010 Audi A4 with only 60k miles a few months ago, and it burns a quart every other week. I’ve read some of you got it replaced from Audi. I would like to try this so do I need to go to a dealership or just contact them online? What are the steps they take?

  39. You replaced just the rings correct? The same pistons and connecting rods were used?

    Also, did you install the 2.5mm thickness rings or the same 1.5mm OEM? That is outlined in the below link:
    https://www.euromechanica.com.au/blog/vag-2-0l-tfsi-oil-consumption

  40. I've got Audi a4b8 2l tdi the gearbox died at 195000 km. The car never worked trouble free. German cars are thrush. I'll stick with Japanese cars. I've never had trouble with Japanese cars. Buy Toyota Honda or lexus and you'll be happy.

  41. WHAT A HACK JOB!! at 5:37 you can see the rear main seal flange was ruined, by pulling the oil pan off extremely hard w/2 bolts still attached. Your suppose to remove the transmission, or remove the engine, to access those two bolts. But instead, chose Extreme short cut, and probably charged top dollar for that job. I wouldn't take my enemie's car to you guys…

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