Yamaha R6 Engine Rebuild Part 1: Bottom End to Piston Install | Partzilla.com

Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Welcome back to our little– little project
on our 2008 Yamaha R6 motor. Listen, we’ve gotten the block back from Lanecorp,
where they were kind enough to punch it out to a 6-3-6 kit, which we’re going to need
because we’re actually installing a piston kit from Wiseco. Beyond that, we’ve got a ported head that
was done by Star Racing in Americus, Georgia. And a whole bunch of other parts that we’re
going to need to replace every bearing, seal, and stretch bolt in the whole engine. So if you’re ready, we’ll get all of this
put back together. So let’s get started. Alright guys, our skill level only goes to
three, but this one’s going to be a three point one. Let’s go ahead and go through some of the
tools that we’re going to need to do this. On your socket side, you’re going to make
sure you have a range from eight going up to nineteen, but the one in particular is
this 36 millimeter. Make sure you have one of those. As far as your ratchet, just a standard 3/8ths,
then a quarter inch. You want to have a couple extensions as well
and then you’re also going to need just one 10mm box-end wrench. A magnet, pick tool, a flat blade screwdriver,
needlenose pliers. As far as your Allen head side, you’re going
to need a 5, 6, an 8, and a 10. Alright you will need one 30 what they call
a Torx bit. Other than that just a soft blow hammer, definitely
going to need a piston ring compression tool, a clutch holder tool, flywheel holder tool,
and a decent torque wrench. Alright, once you’ve got all that, you want
to reference our drawings because this is a lot to get put back together. Now hopefully you’ve bagged and you’ve tagged
and you’ve really organized things as you were taking it apart. If you didn’t, if you look at our drawings
it’ll make more sense when we go to put it back together. As far as the parts you’re going to need,
well, find us at partzilla.com and get all of those ordered and assembled and laid out
in an organized fashion. Once you’ve got all of that together, we can
get started. Alright, let’s get started by reinstalling
our head studs. Just put a little bit of oil on each one of
them before you put them in there. Start them by just going in hand-tight to
begin with, and then we’ll use our extractor-slash-installer tool to get them put back in to spec. Remember you’ve got this oddball one that
goes in that location. You can see the threads at the top, so it’ll
be pretty obvious where it needs to go in. Alright, let’s snug them down a little bit. And what we’re going to do is torque them
to around about eight. That seats them in because there’s a lot of
actual what you want to call thread area that’s down in the block so it just needs to be seated
in and that should be more than enough to hold it in place. And if you don’t have a set of these, you
definitely need to pick them up. It makes life a lot easier as a stud extraction
tool set, which also can be used to reinstall them. Just bottom out and put a little bit of torque
on them, then they’ll be ready when we actually do install the head. Alright, when we sent this off to get it bored
and plated, we actually had to remove every single bearing. So, we’re going to start putting those back
in. I’m starting with the shift drum. Doing it a little bit old school here. Using a socket that just happens to be the
same diameter as our bearing to get it knocked back in there. Alright, next let’s go ahead and get in what
they call the axle drive bearing. Take a little bit of oil and put it around
the case where it’s going to go in. When you’re putting this one in you want the
sealed side to go to the outside. So you want to be looking at the bearing–
the balls when you put it in. When you’re hitting it it will make a different
sound when it finally bottoms out. It’ll kind of be a higher pitched “ting,”
and that’s the sound you’re looking for. Yeah, she’s flush with the edge and that’s
where we want it. Let’s go ahead and get in the second shift
shaft bearing. Just make sure you get it to go in there even. Alright guys, the next part is a little bit
tedious. when we sent it off to get this thing bored and plated, they also removed these
little nozzles that actually spray up to the piston walls. So we need to get those replaced. And each one of these nozzles has an O-ring
that goes on it, and it goes into this smaller groove. Be careful not to rip this little O-ring,
it’s pretty fragile. That’s what you want, right there. Alright, let’s get a little bit of oil on
each one of these passageways. On the O-rings themselves. Now let’s go ahead and push them into place. Just use a small punch tool. Tap them in very gently. Just make sure you’ve got them lined up perfect
when you knock them in. Alright, let’s start putting our transmission
together. First and foremost, we need to go ahead and
get this little oil pipe back in place. There’s one O-ring that goes on the end. And then the other two go up here. Alright, a little dab of oil just to help
them get in there, and then she just slides right back in here. A little tab goes into that indention right
here. That’s it. Next let’s go ahead and get the main axle
assembly put back in. We can go ahead and put in our screws once
we put a little Loctite on them and draw that bearing back down. This is actually a Torx head screw that we’re
using. It’s a T30. Kind of go from side to side so that we can
bring her back down evenly. We want to go ahead and re-stake the end of
the bolts. And fortunately I didn’t put them in at exactly
the same point so we’ve got a place where we can re-stake it into these little indentions
right here. That combined with the red Loctite should
hold it together. Alright, the shift drum and the shift forks,
they pretty much have to go in at the same time. What you want to do is make sure the “C” is
pointing out this direction. Go ahead and start the shaft then we want
to actually engage it into the gears and then just kind of hold it up in place with a screwdriver. You don’t want to insert then end of this
yet because we’re going to have to put in the shift drum and we want to engage it in
that center area. So, we’ve got that held up in place, and we’ll
go ahead and wiggle our shift drum in there. Alright, now we can use a hook tool to hold
up that shift fork and line it up to where its shaft goes through. There you go. Next, go ahead and put in our other shift
fork and it’s going to have an “R” and an “L” on it. You want the “R” here and the “L”next to it
and both of them facing this way. There and there. We’re going to go ahead and put the shift
rod all the way through it and then put on these cover plates that actually hold these
different bearings in place, as well as the shift detent. So, a little bit of Loctite on our bolts,
and what we’re putting in now is called the shift drum retainers. And you’ll notice on each one it’s got a little
where it’s actually out I mean it needs to face outward towards you. Alright, this first one actually has two purposes. This edge holds this bearing in, and then
this part holds this spring down. Alright, the second one goes right here, and
holds the outer edge or this bearing as well as that other shift fork shaft. Let’s get our shift shaft back into place. Before we do that we need to go ahead and
put this post back. Now, we can lower this in. I never took any of this apart so it’s going
back in the same way it came out. Now, we’ll go ahead and put on that outer
washer and circlip. but the trick is you need to be really careful
because we actually have the shift forks exposed, so we just don’t want to lay the block down
on that. We’re going to give it a little bit of room
on this piece of wood. Now that’ll go there and we can put in our
circlip. There. She’s in. Now, let’s go back. We’ve got a couple of oil baffle plates that
need to go back in place. Let’s go ahead and do that spring first–
like that. Now let’s work on our oil baffle plates. One is up here. A little bit of Loctite. That’s a Torx bit, it’s a 30. Another plate goes right here. Same thing with the Loctite on the other three
Torx bolts. Alright, with all that put back together it’s
getting about time to go ahead and get those pistons put in with the connecting rods. What I want to do is move this table out of
the way, go ahead and mount this to our engine stand, and then we will continue. So let me get this reshuffled and we’ll be
right back.

About the Author: Michael Flood

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